Brick stove: design rules, masonry features and drawings

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When you think about building your own home, you have a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc. cope with heating the house, but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is being actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of the design and an economical heating device. It is much easier to find an experienced stove maker to lay a stove. But this long-forgotten craft has only just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove makers.

Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to build a brick oven with your own hands?”

Laying out a stove correctly requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study a lot of instructions for laying brick stoves.

Types of stoves

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch;
• Russian;
• Swede.

Drying

For drying, we put a maximum of 2 kg of firewood in the combustion chamber, light it, and after burning, remove all the ash and remnants of firewood from the firebox and ash pans. After the surfaces have completely cooled, we repeat the work. So we carry out up to 3 drying operations per day for 3-4 days.

When burning wood for the first time, the stove will smoke heavily. Don’t be alarmed, this will evaporate moisture from the ceramic and burn off dirt and grease from the surfaces of the hob and other metal parts. All doors and windows in the room must be open.

On the second day, we begin to examine all surfaces for defects and places where smoke can pass through. If detected, these places are cleared of mortar and sealed with fireproof sealant and fireclay clay solution.

Russian stove

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size is justified by the presence of free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the bed where you can cook food. Next to the firebox there is a stove, and just below there is a vent that keeps the fire going. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily heat a room larger than 40 square meters. But a full-fledged robot will require a lot of raw materials.

Procedures to help independent stove makers

There are a lot of nuances in choosing the design of a country stove that cannot be ignored. The vast majority of wood-burning units in dachas are not constantly heated, which does not have the best effect on their functionality and performance.

Due to the limited free space at the dacha, they try to build one stove. They mainly prefer universal designs that have both a heat-conducting surface and a cast-iron stove with burners for cooking. Although there are adherents of purely heating units.

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Brick oven with forged appliances

Large heat-intensive stoves

Small heating unit

Furnace with heat storage array

Let's look at three options for the construction of brick kilns for dachas, the construction of which is quite possible to handle with your own hands. Let's consider universal and heating designs of an extremely simple device, which can be quickly and easily cleaned even with irregular fires.

You can read about the most popular types of brick ovens in this material.

Option #1 - stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, seemingly elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, the cast iron variety is quite suitable.

The oven can be made in two versions: universal - with a hob designed for preparing hot dishes, heating - without a chamber for the hob

The width of the small-sized brick structure is 510 mm, which allows it to be placed in traditionally small country houses without any problems. The depth of the stove is 640 mm, while the depth of the firebox does not exceed 500 mm. The height of the structure is 2150 mm, the height of the chimney is determined by the position of the pipe relative to the ridge.

There is an oven that can be replaced with a drying chamber or a tank for preparing hot water. The presence of functional compartments not only allows you to prepare delicious hot dishes at the dacha, but also increases the heat transfer of a brick structure.

During operation of the stove, the air and flue gases heated by the stove rush upward, pass along the rear wall of the cooking compartment, after which they flow into the smoke circulation and further into the chimney. Thermal energy in this building is used to the maximum.

A narrow, vertically oriented design takes up minimal space in a country house, but does an excellent job of heating the space

The described brick structure includes 31 rows of flat laid bricks. In order for the structure to function flawlessly, the following procedures must be strictly followed.

During masonry, you need to constantly check the horizontalness of the structure being built and check the size of the diagonals of the laid sides. There are strict requirements for the thickness of seams that must be strictly taken into account. The maximum thickness of seams when laying the body and smoke exhausts cannot exceed 5 mm, when making lining - 3 mm.

For independent masonry of this stove structure, orders have been developed and material consumption has been calculated, which is a tangible help to independent builders

The presented order does not indicate the foundation for the stove, the specifics of the construction of which are presented in another article on our website. It is poured or built of brick according to standard rules. We will assume that the foundation has already been erected, and we will proceed to the actual laying of the stove.

No comments are needed for laying the first three rows; everything is extremely simple. In the 3rd row we put a door for the blower, in the 5th row we put a grate. Before installing the 6th row, we place the firebox door: we temporarily secure the frame with the door with wire braces and immediately support it with two side bricks.

At this stage, the ash door is installed, the grate is laid and the firebox door is mounted. A cast iron hob is placed in row 11

Next, follow the ordering instructions up to the 11th row. After laying it, we lay a metal corner or a steel strip, stepping back from the rear edge of the already constructed part of the structure exactly the width of one brick. This is necessary to install the hob.

After installing the hob, we continue laying, strictly following the instructions. Starting from the 12th and continuing to the 15th row, we simultaneously build the walls of the rear smoke channel and the cooking compartment.

At this stage of construction of a brick stove, a cooking chamber and a chimney are formed, located behind its rear wall

Upon completion of the laying of the 15th row, we place metal corners or install a slate sheet. They will serve as the basis for the upcoming continuous masonry.

In the 17th row we install and secure the cleaning chamber door. We lay it out up to the 22nd row. The result should be a hollow section connected to the smoke channel.

At the third stage of stove construction, the oven is installed and bricked, as well as chimney valves are installed

In the 24th row, we lay out asbestos scraps along the inner edges of our structure. Next, we wrap the oven body with asbestos rope, and then place it on the stove, resting it on the scraps. The asbestos rope will serve as thermal insulation and at the same time protect the device from burnout.

From the 24th to the 27th row we line the oven with bricks, observing the thickness of the seams regulated by the rules.

In the 28th row we install a door through which we will clean the chimney. We fix it as it should be with two bricks on the sides and continue construction.

In the 29th and 31st rows we arrange channels for chimney valves. We simply lay them down and carry out further masonry without connecting the devices to the bricks with mortar. Then from the 32nd row we build a chimney.

Option #2 - stove for heating adjacent rooms

We can unconditionally classify this design as a heating unit. It is not equipped with a hob with burners and an oven. But it perfectly warms several adjacent rooms, in which it is part of the interior partition.

A stove without a hob and oven is used as a heating unit. It is installed so that no more than three adjacent rooms are heated

The design, just like the previous type, is compact due to its elongation in height. It is only 510 mm wide and 890 mm deep.

The height of the heating stove without a chimney is 2380 mm, which is equal to 35 rows of laid bricks.

A brick building has a minimum of functional chambers. A novice stove maker can easily handle its laying

We will divide the manual for laying a heating type of a country brick stove into three conditional parts. We will assume that the foundation for it has already been built in accordance with the general rules.

The orders for masonry from the 1st to the 12th rows represent the construction scheme with the installation of a blower door, grate and arrangement of the firebox

The first third shows the ordering patterns from the 1st to the 12th row. We build the starting rows with special care, because... We will focus on them in the future. In each row we check the equality of the diagonals, using a building level we control the verticality of the rows.

To ensure that the walls are strictly horizontal, we will periodically check them during laying with a plumb line. In case of deviation, errors must be corrected immediately, before the solution has time to set and begins to harden.

The 1st row is laid over roofing felt, roofing felt or similar waterproofing material laid in two rows. For convenience, we fix the waterproofing with a binder solution and mark the outline of the stove under construction on its surface.

In the 2nd row we install a frame with a blower door and begin building a chimney. In the 5th row we place a grate, which is the overlap of the blower. In the 6th row we place a frame with a fire door and secure it with two bricks on the sides at once.

From the 5th to the 15th row we carry out the masonry with fireclay refractory bricks, thanks to which there is no need to carry out lining, which would essentially significantly reduce the volume of the already small firebox.

The second stage of building a brick stove consists of forming vertical smoke channels, a firebox and a cleaning chamber

After laying the 16th row in the formed recess in the 15th row, we strengthen its bottom with cement-sand mortar.

This is necessary to strengthen the bottom of the chamber intended for cleaning smoke channels. Then in the 16th row we install a cleaning door.

At the third stage of construction of a brick heating structure, further laying of vertical smoke channels, a second cleaning chamber, and installation of furnace valves are carried out

Afterwards we cover the cleaning door and form this chamber, at the same time we continue to build vertical channels for the smoke exhaust up to the 24th row.

Next, we proceed to the third stage of masonry. In the 25th row we begin the construction of the second cleaning chamber. We again strengthen the bottom of the previous row with a clay-cement composition, install another door and continue building the chimney.

In the 28th and 32nd rows we install valves, which are used as draft regulators. We add the furnace mass up to the 35th row, so that after that we can begin building the chimney.

Option #3 - a stove with a shield and a low trestle bed

A very practical design with a low brick couch that serves as a heated sleeping place in Russian huts. The construction is more complicated than previous options, but more practical, because includes a heating unit, some furniture, and a hob.

This stove design also has two flooring options. The differences are confined to rows 5 and 6, 5a and 6a. In the second option, a steel corner is placed on the corner of the top row

In order for the shield of the heating part of the stove to be 1020 mm wide, protrusions are formed on both sides. If you plan to increase heat transfer, the number of smoke rotations can be increased to 5. For normal operation of this design, it is necessary to rotate the chimneys above the stove.

This stove has two solutions, the differences of which are determined in rows 5 and 6, as well as in 5a and 6a. The second solution involves installing a steel angle on the corner.

There are developed procedures for this brick kiln design, and the material consumption required for the construction of a universal structure has been calculated. If the summer valve is not intended to be used, it is closed with a brick.

The dimensions of the bed are selected individually. It may not be a solid brick structure with chambers for burning and cleaning, but some kind of trestle bed on pillars instead of legs.

Between the posts you need to leave holes 120 mm wide. However, a structure with chambers retains heat better.

The ordering is essentially an exact instruction for novice stove makers who want to build a brick stove in their dacha with their own hands.

It is recommended to build this stove on a monolithic foundation, on which asbestos sheets are placed before constructing the stove. Fireclay refractory bricks are used only in the construction of a firebox as a lining. Typically, the firebox is built one brick lower than the installation level of its door.

The lining is carried out with bricks installed on the edge. We will not describe in detail the procedures given for the construction of this stove, because... the reader has already received an idea of ​​the symbols and specifics of stove construction.

This stove is suitable for both summer and winter use. In the summer they cook food on it, in the winter they not only cook, but also warm themselves, dry it, and treat colds.

It is important to follow the given sequence diagrams, as well as strictly adhere to the proportions and compositions of binding solutions used in the construction of brick stoves.

Swede

Refer to compact options. Length and width – 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusual thing about such a stove is that the stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of the stove will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced with the help of dampers.

Types of furnace equipment for gas movement

The brick warms up well and releases energy into the surrounding space for a long time. But this is not enough for high-quality heating of the kitchen or bedrooms. The heat capacity is increased due to the arrangement of special chambers that promote heating of the walls.

Without going into technical details, the movement of smoke through special channels occurs as follows:

• During the combustion of wood or coal, gases are formed that have an extremely high temperature. Under the influence of physical laws, they rise upward, but are delayed due to obstacles in the form of jumpers and valves;
• smoke begins to spread through the flues, heating the walls;
• the temperature of combustion products decreases. They go into the outlet pipe.

If the channels are laid horizontally, less time is spent on cooling than in analogues with vertical ones. The reason is the low air speed. The inevitable consequence is uneven heating of the rooms.

If we analyze all existing types of stoves, it is preferable to choose units with chimneys laid from the bottom up. No additional effort is required to move the gas. They inevitably move upward and warm up the surrounding space.

But equipment with a vertical chimney is not without its drawbacks. If, in the presence of horizontal channels, the space around the firebox warms up more, then here the heat accumulates in the upper part. The first option is more consistent with fire safety standards.

Another important point concerns furnaces with vertical channels. They should not be too long. The gas passing through them will cool down greatly. The result is uneven heating.

In bell-type heaters, it was possible to partially eliminate the disadvantages associated with heat distribution. Here, separate outlets open into a single chamber. The smoke passes through small-diameter holes and is collected in a hood under the upper ceiling. The combustion products partially cool and fall down. Then they rush into the atmosphere, obeying the natural forces of nature.

In terms of heat capacity, bell-type units are better than their analogues. They are chosen when it comes to heating a house of a large area. If you need to heat a small building at the dacha, a Dutch or Swedish one is enough.

Construction rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, special attention must be paid to preparation for construction.

1. Decide on the location of the oven.
2. Prepare the correct drawing.
3. Buy quality materials for construction.
4. Purchase of tools.
5. Create a cost estimate.

Correctly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help you avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation location, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of oven. It’s difficult to calculate everything yourself, so it’s easier to use a reduced model of a brick oven, a photo of which is available on the Internet.

Main types of sauna stoves

The old-fashioned way is to put wood in the oven and wait for it to burn out completely. After all the smoke has evaporated through the steam room, you can enter the bathhouse. The advantage of this type is the rapid heating of the bath.

Mixed - with this type of installation there is a chimney, but the stones are not isolated from the firebox and therefore smoke still enters the room.

Clean - the stones are heated by the stove, so there is no smoke. But this type takes a long time to warm up and is considered expensive.

Double - has two plates above the chimney. More economical than the Clean type and at the same time with a minimum amount of smoke.

Selection of working tools

Compliance with the technology and the quality of the work performed will also directly depend on the auxiliary measuring instruments and tools that must be used during the work on laying the furnace.

When laying a furnace, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

• Jointing - pours the mortar into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the stove is left without lining or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Hammer-pick.
• Shovel for mortar.
• Plumb.
• Stove line.

How often should you light the stove?

Taking into account how often fuel has to be loaded, all units belong to one of the groups listed below:

• periodic action. Firewood or coal is added from time to time. The combustion temperature can reach 1000 0C. To avoid fire and premature destruction of the structure, the wall thickness should start from ¾ brick;
• continuous burning. Heat is not accumulated. The density of the walls does not exceed ½ stone. The firebox is of shaft type. In the standard version, firewood smolders for up to a day. Energy is released evenly, in relatively small portions.

The second type of firebox requires large volumes of oxygen to operate. They are recommended for homes with permanent residence. At dachas and cottages used only on weekends, it is better to choose designs with periodic action.

In relation to the previously discussed types of equipment, the following must be indicated:

• Russian stove. During the cold season it is heated continuously. The body should not cool down. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate in the channels. The brick gets wet and cracks during subsequent ignition. In the summer months, by moving the valves, the fumes from the firebox are directed directly into the chimney. There is no heating effect;
• Dutch. After ignition, it warms up in a few minutes. But it cools down just as quickly if you don’t close the view in time. Recommended operating mode: continuous smoldering;
• Swede. In winter, it cannot be cooled completely due to accumulating condensation. The masonry can completely collapse within a few months;
• bell-shaped Operation in any mode is allowed. Warm up in a few minutes.

Materials

The heat transfer and durability of the stove will depend on the material used in construction. Therefore this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber needs to be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to bricks, the following is used:

• Sifted sand.
• Clay – normal fat content.

Principle of operation

This device works simply:

• put firewood in the firebox and light the stove. Before this, the blowers and air dampers of the chimney are opened;
• heated gases enter the first chamber and pass through the connecting channel into the auxiliary firebox;
• heat flows to the 2-burner cooktop;
• through special openings, gases enter the common chimney channel;
• the flows mix, give off most of the heat to the brick walls and are released into the atmosphere.

The stove hearth is open in front and along the side walls. Thanks to this operating principle, such devices have a number of advantages, the main ones being a high level of performance and fuel economy. Especially in the summer, when only the small combustion chamber is used for cooking.

Foundation for the stove

The basis for a homemade stove is made at the time of construction, since a brick stove requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It is necessary to take into account that the width and length of the pit must exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

Afterwards, the pit is leveled and half filled with sifted sand, compacted well and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is installed.

Next, all free space is filled with concrete mortar, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontalness using a building level.

After 5-6 days the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is dismantled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of brick;
• re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete up to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, compacting it.

Concrete mortar recipe - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

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Masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. The clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve. Currently, there is no need to prepare this mixture yourself. A number of companies offer ready-made masonry mixtures in various packaging. Using such masonry mixtures is preferable to making them yourself.

Industrial sieves sift a finer fraction of sand and clay, which makes it possible to obtain a more plastic and homogeneous mixture. This mixture will eliminate the formation of voids and air bubbles in the seams during laying.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built using solid bricks. The first row of stitches requires dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used when constructing smoke ducts. The chimney is built from red burnt brick. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “lock” layout.

Before the first fire, it is recommended to wait 3 weeks.

Useful tips for laying a brick stove for a summer cottage

1. Always monitor the thickness of the seam while laying bricks. It should be 5 mm.
2. Check the first row not only with a building level, but also diagonally.
   Checking the diagonal of row 1
3. Start placing each new row on the previous row only when you check it horizontally with a building level and vertically with a plumb line. To ensure even angles, use a protractor all the time. Then it will be difficult to correct your mistakes.
4. When laying a cast iron hob on a brick, it is necessary to lay a layer of clay mortar on it. This will protect the brick from heating.
5. To ensure good draft and prevent the formation of condensation, you need to make a short gas exit path. The so-called summer run. Through this path, gases enter the chimney. After the stove lights up well, close the damper.
6. Start each row from a corner.
7. When laying out each new row, make sure that the new brick overlaps the joint of the previous brick.
8. The size of the chimney and chimney must be the same diameter.

At the end of the article, we recommend that you read the instructions for laying a wood-burning stove for a summer house.

The video describes in detail the process of laying a simple brick kiln on a dry

Photos of brick stoves

Firebox

To test fire the stove, fill the firebox completely with dry wood, open the firebox door, the ash pan door and the ash pan doors. The air damper is also open.

We light the firewood, after the large logs begin to burn normally, close the doors and ash pans and check the performance of our homemade “Housekeeper”. Do not use firewood with a humidity level above 20% - this will lead to frequent cleaning of the chimney from a thick layer of soot.

To clean the pipe, use a cable with a brush attached. By passing one end into the chimney. Having brought it outside in the firebox, simply stretch the brush along the entire length of the pipe. But before this operation, we recommend removing or covering things and furniture with film. This operation will have to be performed at least once every 30 days.

When doing work with your own hands, treat it with full responsibility. Comfort and coziness in your home depends on this.

Heating stove with bottom heating size 770×640 mm

The heating furnace has dimensions, mm: 770x640x2310 (Fig. 1,a).

Rice. 1. Heating stove with bottom heating, size 770×640 mm a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, B-C; c - masonry 1-17 rows; 1 - ash chamber; 2 — blower door; 3 - grate; 4 - combustion door; 5 - firebox; 6 - smoke valve. Rice. 1. Continuation: g - masonry 18-35 rows

Material consumption (without foundation and pipe):

• red brick - 220 pcs.;
• fire-resistant brick - 170 pcs.;
• red clay - 10 buckets;
• refractory clay - 50 kg;
• sand - 5 buckets;
• combustion door - 250×210 mm;
• blower door - 250×140 mm;
• smoke valve - 130×250 mm;
• grate - 380×250 mm;
• cleaning doors measuring 130×140 mm - 6 pcs.;
• pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm.

Refractory brick, if unavailable, can be replaced with ordinary red selected first-grade brick.

Before you start laying a stove, you should purchase the necessary stove equipment and only then begin work, focusing on their dimensions.

The stove can be built by one stove within 16-18 hours; in addition, it takes about 4-5 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution.

The size of the stove is small, but it provides heating for a room with a floor area of ​​up to 16 m². The heat output of the furnace with a one-time firebox is 2.8 kW (2400 kcal/h), and with a two-time firebox - 3.5 kW (3000 kcal/h).

The stove has a simple design, increased heating in the lower zone, the fuel for it is anthracite, coal, coal briquettes, peat briquettes, and firewood. Hot flue gases in the furnace move through a well-developed chimney system, heating its internal walls.

In Fig. 1, b shows vertical sections of the furnace along A-A, B-B and B-C, and the rows show the sequence in which the bricks are laid and the installation of furnace appliances is carried out in each row.

The vertical sections show firebox 1, ash chamber 2, grate 3, combustion door 4, ash door 5, smoke valve 6, and cleaning holes.

The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace, and the dashed lines indicate the movement of cold room air in the heated furnace before the smoke valve is completely closed.

The hot flue gases of the heating stove rise from the firebox to the firebox overlap and from the top hole.

Laying the fifth row is not difficult, you just need to pay attention to the correct alternation of seams. This row forms a firebox measuring 250x380 mm.

During the laying of the sixth row, the fire door is installed and secured to the masonry. Before installing the combustion door, it is prepared for installation. The laying of the seventh and eighth rows is carried out according to the procedures. Laying the stove from the ninth to the seventeenth row is not difficult, you just need to follow the rules for bandaging the seams. The eighteenth row covers the firebox and the descending channel. There remains only one channel measuring 130x130 mm. The nineteenth row is laid out with ordinary red brick; the masonry of this row is similar to the masonry of the eighteenth row. During the laying of the twentieth row, cleaning holes are installed.

The twenty-first row is laid out in order. The twenty-second row is covered by cleaning doors. The twenty-third row must be laid out strictly in order. The masonry of this row forms the beginning of the chimney system.

The laying of the stove from the twenty-fourth to twenty-seventh rows is the same, you just need to strictly follow the rules for bandaging the seams. The laying of the furnace from the twenty-eighth to the thirtieth row is carried out according to the order. The thirty-first row covers the top of the stove, leaving a chimney channel measuring 130x250 mm. The thirty-second and thirty-third rows also cover the top of the stove, but they only follow the rules for bandaging the seams. The thirty-fourth row shows masonry (a channel of five bricks and the installation of a smoke damper measuring 130x250 mm.

The chimney begins with the masonry of the thirty-fifth row Laying the pipe is not difficult. The pipe is laid out “fivefold”, observing in detail the rules for ligating the seams, with an internal pipe size of 130×250 mm strictly vertically. When passing through the ceiling and roof, fire safety measures must be observed. After finishing the laying of the stove and chimney, they are dried with test fireboxes, and after drying they are plastered and whitewashed.

Experience of FORUMHOUSE craftsmen

Among the participants of our portal, mainly outdoor modifications of the Russian stove, intended for preparing pickles in the fresh air or in closed complexes, are popular. The use of a classic design as a heating unit is much less common: its style cannot fit into every interior, its execution is complex, its efficiency is low, and it takes up more space than modern solid fuel units. But the taste of dishes cooked in such an oven is superior compared to derivatives of gas or electric ovens and iron grills. Because of this, it is outdoor stoves or complexes that have become most widespread.

Return of traditions

It cannot be said that the Russian stove in the house is a museum exhibit that has unexpectedly returned from the past. In fact, it never disappeared; moreover, it is part of some Russian outbacks that are unfamiliar with main gas.

The massive return of the Russian wet nurse to homes spoiled by civilization is not a tribute to fashion. Most likely, what plays a role here is the desire of people to feel comfortable and cozy in the house, to fill it with the pleasant aroma of baking and to meet with the family in front of an open fire for a delicious dinner cooked in a real Russian oven. After all, not a single miracle of technology will give the sensations and emotions that people experience when they see a flame.

Will help you feel comfortable and cozy in your home

A Russian stove, finished with high-quality materials, does not look like an alien in the house. Today it has become more compact, practical and wear-resistant. A wood-burning stove, depending on its design features, is placed not only in the kitchen, but also in the living room and dining room. For the convenience of housewives, craftsmen integrate everything they need into them, right down to hoods.

A Russian stove without built-in hobs can easily take a central place in a library or bedroom. A lounger can easily replace even the most comfortable chair or even a sofa.

To choose the most suitable project for your home, you need to consider several options in detail. They differ in size, functionality, and of course cost.

Installing a Russian stove in a country house is a job only for professionals. Regardless of construction skills, the construction of such a structure requires not only skills, but also knowledge of its features and technologies.

Interesting design solution

"Alya-Rus" - a designer hit

This model has quite compact dimensions. It does not have additional equipment, such as a hob, a large sun lounger or the ability to observe the flame effect. This option is suitable for a small kitchen. Such a stove is decorated with decorative elements that are associated with Russia. It looks light and charming in a wooden house. Peculiarities :

• Despite the primary simplicity of the decor, such a stove should not be overloaded with accessories. A few decorations will be enough;
• it can be installed not only under the wall. Due to its compactness, it will look good in the center of the kitchen, if space allows.

This option is budget friendly. And if you want a Russian stove in your home, but your budget does not allow for luxury, you can choose this option.

Suitable for rustic style homes

Heating stove with bottom heating, size 1650×510 mm

The heating stove has dimensions, mm: 1650x510x2310.

Material consumption (excluding foundation and chimney) is as follows:

• red brick - 640 pcs.,
• red clay - 22 buckets,
• sand - 12 buckets,
• fire door - 250×210 mm,
• blower door - 140×250 mm,
• smoke valve - 130×250 mm,
• grate - 300×250 mm,
• cleaning doors measuring 130×140 mm - 7 pcs.,
• pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm.

The stove can be built by one stove within 26 hours; in addition, it will take about 6 hours to prepare the clay-sand mortar and carry the material. 2

The stove is designed to heat a room up to 50 m2. The heat output of the furnace with a single firebox is 5 kW (4300 kcal/h), with two fireboxes per day - about 6.2 kW (5300 kcal/h). All types of solid fuel can be used in this stove, but when using anthracite and coal, it is advisable to line the stove from the ninth row until the firebox is covered with refractory bricks, and in its absence, the firebox should be laid out using selected red bricks in these rows.

Drawings of sections and ordering are shown in Fig. 7.

Rice. 7. Heating stove with bottom heating, size 1650×510 mm a - facade and sections G-G, D-D, E-E; b - masonry 1-8 rows Fig. 7. Continuation in - sections A-A, B-B, B-C; d - masonry 9-17 rows Fig. 7. Continuation d - masonry 18-35 rows

Laying the stove is not particularly difficult. The fifth row determines the main dimensions of the chimneys of the lower heating chamber; this row covers the bottom of the ash chamber. The twenty-fifth row also determines the main dimensions of the chimneys of the upper heating chamber. In a cross-section of the furnace, the inside is visible, as in an x-ray (see horizontal section of the furnace).

Decorative finishing

Building materials make it possible to finish the stove in a variety of styles. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the resistance of bricks, as well as mortars used in its laying, to various negative influences.

Truly Russian style: mud and tiles

In the old days, one material was traditionally used - mud (clay-based plaster). Then it was covered with ordinary whitewash. This finishing method is not durable, since during kindling, smoke settles on the surface, making the whitewash gray. Although it is necessary to highlight the beauty of the painting of such stoves, their attractiveness and truly Russian style. Nowadays, rarely anyone uses this method of decoration, as more and more people prefer practicality.

Stone finishing

The most common classic option is decor using ceramic elements made in the form of boxes. The main advantage of this material is its attractiveness, as well as practicality. Tiles are able to retain their original appearance for a long time. The main disadvantage is the high price

.

Peculiarities:

• the cladding is laid from bottom to top;
• a special gypsum composition is used for grouting joints;
• There are a variety of tile patterns available on the market. These can be either smooth tiles or embossed ones with different patterns.

Using tiles for decoration, it is possible to choose the desired color, pattern, relief so that it fits the overall style of the room. This is the best material for finishing Russian-style stoves.

The cladding is laid from bottom to top

Modern materials

The variety of materials makes it possible to decorate a Russian stove in any style. All this allows it to fit harmoniously into absolutely any interior. Among the most common it is worth highlighting:

• facing brick;
• ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware;
• artificial stone of various types;
• natural wood can be used for decoration;
• a natural stone;
• plaster and paint.

These materials are very practical and reliable. To give them a new look, just wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth. However, they are not without drawbacks. Some, for example, like ceramic tiles or granite, cannot harmoniously fit into any style.

You can cook many delicious dishes in it

Plaster and paint

The plaster and paint looks very nice. This finishing method is for interiors in a minimalist style. In this case, the choice of color and texture is limited only by a flight of fancy and the general style of the room. Using paint and plaster, you can visually reduce the size of the stove or, conversely, increase it. Plaster and paint are often used to create Russian-style decor. It allows you to make various designs and patterns on its surface.

A little history and facts

The stove is part of Russian folklore! There is no exact information when the prototypes of these structures first appeared. However, at first they had a completely different appearance, little reminiscent of the Russians we are used to. And only recently people began to build them in design and appearance similar to their analogues. Today, such structures are part of houses in Russian villages, where there is only stove heating and there is no talk of any gas. People use them to heat their houses, cook, heat food and bake with them.

The stove is part of Russian folklore