Ceramic tiles for cladding stoves: features of selection and installation

Nowadays, a stove or fireplace is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a fashionable attribute of a modern home, which should look in accordance with the aesthetic preferences of the owners. In order to give the stove an external visual uniqueness, ceramic tiles can be used, which must be attached with an adhesive that can withstand high heat.

How can I glue the tiles to the stove? In order to choose a suitable tile adhesive, you need to know its inherent performance characteristics. Heat-resistant tile adhesive, depending on its composition, can be divided into cement adhesive mixtures, fireclay mixtures, silicate adhesives and fire-resistant mastics.

Marking and calculating material consumption

Expert advice on tiling sauna stoves
To avoid the need for additional material during the process of laying tiles, it is necessary to correctly determine the amount of tiles. It is calculated using a formula, a simplified version of which contains data on the area of ​​the outer surface of the heating device, to which 10% is added.

Glue consumption is determined based on the manufacturer's data. They can be found out by reading the information on the packaging of the composition. When preparing it yourself, it is recommended not to make large reserves, because after a certain time the water will begin to evaporate. The fluidity of the glue will decrease and it will be uncomfortable to work with.

To perform high-quality work on tiling the stove, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws and steel wire, the cross-section of which is from 0.8 to 1.0 mm. The number of fasteners is directly dependent on the size of the oven.

It all starts with calculations

A little preface. Ceramic tiles include just a few of the most common types, which have significant differences. Its history goes back hundreds of years, which suggests that it is an indispensable material for lining stoves.

So, before proceeding with the direct selection of materials necessary for work, the area of ​​the furnace is measured. And also do not forget that adjacent surfaces (walls, floors and ceilings) that will be exposed to temperature must first of all be finished with fire-resistant elements.

Tile adhesive is calculated separately. To do this, you can read the instructions that each manufacturer places on the packaging. You can also use free calculators found on sellers’ websites.

Additionally you will need:

• rags;
• roller and brush;
• mallet;
• tile cutter;
• screwdriver;
• level and rule;
• fine mesh;
• trowel and spatula.

I would like to immediately give some advice:

1. Tiling a stove does not take place without damaging the material, especially when you work with your own hands. Even experienced craftsmen take into account the required margin of ten percent, which is due to damage or other defects.
2. Before covering the heat source with a decorative layer, it needs to be strengthened. To do this, a wire is often used, which is stretched to form a cellular structure. But you can use a ready-made mesh.
3. You can make your own mortar for laying tiles. It should be borne in mind that it is better to cook it in small portions.

Selection of materials

In order to tile the stove yourself, you need to purchase heat-resistant materials. Traditional tiles do not withstand strong heat and temperature changes. It can crack, suddenly fall off, injure a person or damage the floor covering.

Table of characteristics of types of ceramic tiles

When purchasing tiles, you should pay attention to what material they are made of. If the tile is thin and porous, it means it contains a large amount of air. When heated, it expands, causing the part to undergo internal stress and crack, unable to withstand it.

For lining the stove, you should choose heat-resistant ceramic tiles. Indicators of resistance to mechanical damage may be fundamental. It is better to choose elements that are not very large. Small ceramics are stronger, such tiles will last much longer. The maximum size of the part used for laying on the surface of the oven is 100*100 mm.

Porcelain tiles

This material is increasingly used in oven linings. It has excellent heat resistance and unique characteristics. Porcelain tiles are used to decorate not only the outer surface, but also the interior of the oven. In addition, he is not afraid of temperature changes, evaporation, cold and shock.

How to cover a stove with porcelain tiles:

1. Apply glue to the surface with a notched trowel.
2. The fragment is installed and compacted with a mallet.
3. Several rows are laid in this way and allowed to dry.
4. Work continues. At the end, the cut tiles are glued.

Variety of finishing materials

There are several types of materials used for finishing stoves:

• terracotta is a material made from baked clay that is not covered with glaze;
• majolica - a tile with a finely porous structure, coated with white or any other color glaze;
• porcelain stoneware – artificial tiles made from different types of materials and fillers;
• clinker - a cladding material made from refractory types of clay;
• tiles - ceramic parts for cladding, having a rectangular protrusion, covered with glaze, created for finishing stoves.

Tiles can be used only if it is possible to finish the stove simultaneously with the masonry. If this is not done, then it will only be possible to finish the heating device with other types of tiles.

The thickness of the selected tile should not be less than 7 mm. In addition to tiles, you can use natural stone for cladding. This option perfectly withstands strong temperature changes, so it is recommended for use in those houses that are not heated on a regular basis.

Preparing for work

To perform high-quality work on tiling the stove, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the structure. This is done using a spatula. The craftsman should remove the plaster and plaster, then clean the seams while simultaneously deepening them by 0.5–1.0 cm. The resulting dust is carefully removed. To do this, you can use a plastic bottle with a small hole in the lid.

To perform the work you will need the following tool:

Tools needed for laying tiles

• self-tapping screws;
• chain link;
• spatulas;
• tile;
• glue;
• crosses for forming seams;
• tile cutter;
• level;
• plumb line;
• grout.

Both old and new stoves are pre-lined with metal mesh to ensure the strength of the plaster. The chain-link is fastened using self-tapping screws: they are carefully screwed into the seams between the bricks.

The surface of the corners of the oven must be leveled. This will ensure easier installation of the tiles, which are fastened either with glue or with clay mortar. Before the procedure, the oven must be well heated, the recommended wall temperature is 35 °C.

Tools used

To tile a stove, you will need to prepare a considerable list of equipment necessary for the operation:

• a set of straight spatulas;
• mallet;
• mounting grid;
• metal corners;
• tile cutter or grinder;
• crosses and plates for fixing joints;
• level;
• primer;
• starting heat-resistant plaster;
• hammer;
• brush;
• construction mixer;
• plumb line;
• metal scissors;
• nails;
• rule;
• roulette;
• notched and small rubber spatula.

Before tiling the stove, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials:

• Measuring devices - tape measure, level, plumb line.
• Chisel with hammer, or impact drill.
• Bulgarian.
• Metal brush.
• Spatulas (regular medium-sized, serrated and special for grouting).
• Tile cutter
• Hammer (rubber and regular).
• Metal mesh with cells 50x50 mm.
• Wire 1 mm thick.
• Plastic crosses for seams.
• Nails and washers.
• Primer.
• Installation adhesive for tiles.
• Heat-resistant mixture for grouting joints.

Laying tiles on a continuous layer of adhesive

Applying tile adhesive

The simplest installation option is cladding using tile adhesive, which is specifically designed for finishing work on fireplaces and stoves. For some craftsmen, compositions based on cement and PVA are more preferable. In some cases, table salt is added to the glue, which can absorb excess moisture.

An excellent option for fixing ceramic tiles is clay. It has characteristics such as heat resistance and ductility, becoming only stronger from exposure to high temperatures. To prepare a clay solution, you must use river sand, the amount of which should be three times less than the amount of clay. The consistency of the composition should resemble thick sour cream.

You can buy special building mixtures in construction stores. They are ready for use; all the master needs to do is add water and mix the composition thoroughly. The amount of glue prepared can be large. Because it takes a long time to set. If it dries out, water can be added at any time.

Spot bonding of ceramics

Popular brands of tile sealants

Point fastening of ceramic tiles is carried out using sealant. Red silicone sealant is perfect for this purpose and does the job perfectly. This installation method significantly saves the technician’s time and effort.

The spot method of finishing a stove has some disadvantages. Thus, the heat transfer of the furnace is significantly reduced. This happens because the finish does not adhere tightly to the base.

To carry out installation, apply sealant to the 4 corners of the tile on the back side of the sample. It is necessary to make an indent from the corners, which will be 2 or 3 centimeters. The area of ​​each attachment point is quite large: approximately 3–4 square meters. see the gap between the tiles is 3 millimeters. Fixing crosses will help to obtain an aesthetic result: the seams between the tiles will be smooth and neat.

Grouting joints

After completing the furnace lining, the joints are grouted. The ceramics must be completely dry. You must allow at least 24 hours for this. The average drying time is 24–72 hours. A spatula is used to apply the grout. You can tint the mixtures with colors, in which case the seam can become both less noticeable and more contrasting.

The technique for performing the work is quite simple:

• adding water to the dry grout mixture;
• rubbing into the gaps using a rubber spatula;
• cleaning the surface with a sponge or damp cloth;
• re-cleaning the tiles from the remaining film after the composition has completely dried.

Stages of tiling a stove

After completing the finishing of the stove, at least 3-4 weeks should pass. This period is necessary for complete drying of all types of solutions that were used for cladding. After this period, the heating device can be tested. As soon as the oven heats up, it needs to be cooled down again. After this, the system is ready for use.

Step-by-step instructions for lining a stove with your own hands

Furnace finishing with ceramic tiles using metal mesh

1. Before laying the tiles, the stove must be covered with a special mesh. A frame made of metal mesh with small cells further strengthens the oven structure and allows the solution to better adhere to the surface. If during the construction of the stove pieces of wire were laid between the bricks, they can be used to secure the mesh to the working base. If there are no such segments, the mesh is fixed with screws or nails. The metal mesh should have good tension and fit as tightly as possible to the surface.
2. After constructing the frame, you can prepare a cement-sand mortar and apply it to the stove in an even layer. When starting such work, you must first warm up the stove well, and only then put the solution on the heated surface. After this, work can be suspended for the time necessary for the solution to dry completely.
3. Decorative ceramic tiles are laid in rows, starting from the bottom. The adhesive composition is applied to the cladding elements using a notched trowel. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 4 mm. Fixing each tile on the surface of the stove, lightly tap it with a rubber hammer so that air bubbles come out of the adhesive solution and the lining lies tightly on the base. The evenness of the masonry is constantly checked using a building level and a wooden batten.
4. The tile joints are not completely filled with mortar, leaving space for decorative grout. To make the seams even, special plastic crosses are inserted into them. First, the surface is covered with solid tiles, and the remaining space is covered with fragments of the desired shape, cutting them off using a tile cutter.
5. At the end of all work, the stove is cleaned of any remaining mortar and construction dust. After 3 days, when the adhesive composition has completely dried, the tile joints are filled with decorative grout and jointed.

Technology using aluminum corners

In the process of finishing the stove using corners, aluminum strips with holes are installed in the vertical seams of the brickwork. Then, using bolts, aluminum corners are fixed to these strips. Ceramic tiles are laid between these corners.

After installing all the tiles, the space between them and the surface of the oven is filled with mortar.

Some useful tips

You can decorate the stove more aesthetically and neatly using several techniques.

Making a grout joint with a concave surface. This can be easily done using a straight stick, which is pressed against the grout while it is still soft.

If you follow all the rules, you will get a high-quality stove lining

Strips of drywall sheet can be used as a template for forming seams. Its thickness is 10 mm. This ensures that the gap between the tiles will be of a constant size. Once work is completed, these templates can be easily removed.

An element that accidentally falls off after finishing can be returned to its place. To do this, you need to remove the glue and install it in place, having previously lubricated it with a clay solution.

Almost every craftsman can tile a new stove or appliance whose finish needs updating. To complete the work you will need a minimum of tools and some experience in construction work. The amount of time spent and the appearance of the stove depend on what material and method of fastening is chosen.

How to tile a stove

How to cover a stove with tiles if it has lost its original neat appearance, or in the case when such cladding was planned in advance, even when planning the construction? This question often arises among owners of private houses during renovation of a room where an old stove is installed, or upon completion of laying and drying a new one.

How to tile a stove

Some owners prefer to plaster the stoves followed by whitewashing or painting, but this is a less durable finish and will have to be updated after a couple of years. But properly laid tiles will last for decades.

The stove is finished with tiles not only to make the structure look aesthetically pleasing, but also to preserve the plaster layer. In this case, the plaster is the main protective layer that prevents the seams between the bricks from opening, through which combustion products can enter the room.

In addition, the stove tiles have a high heat capacity, and when they heat up themselves, they release heat into the room for quite a long time and do not allow the entire brick stove to cool down quickly.

Previously, tiles were laid in only one way - with mortar. Today, some craftsmen are inventing new methods that even make it possible over time to replace a cladding material that has become boring or has lost its decorative qualities with a new one that has, for example, a more interesting design that matches the style of the entire room. The same method can also help if one of the tiles, anywhere on the stove wall, is accidentally damaged and you want to replace it.

To decide on the choice of finish and figure out which cladding method will be easier to implement, you need to take a closer look at the nuances of the technology.

Plastering the stove is also a good solution!

For a long time, brick ovens were plastered with clay mortars and whitewashed for every major holiday. This is a time-tested method, and if the solution is prepared with high quality and the plaster is applied according to all the rules, then sometimes you can limit yourself to such a finish. How to properly plaster a stove - read in a special publication on our portal.

But before starting finishing work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures, which are no less important for the safe operation of the stove and high-quality tile laying.

Preparing for tiling the stove

You need to start by preparing all the necessary tools that will help prepare the surface and finish it.

Tools for work

Tools needed for tiling the stove

Tools you will need:

• Spatulas:

- serrated - for applying and distributing tile adhesive. Recommended tooth height – 5 ÷ 6 mm;

- a regular straight medium size - for cleaning the surface;

- corner - for decorating the corners of the building;

- rubber - for sealing seams between tiles when laying them on glue.

• Tile cutter and sander.
• Metal ruler.
• A simple pencil or marker for marking.
• Construction level, plumb.
• Glue container.
• Electric drill and mixer attachment for mixing the adhesive mass.

When installing tiles without glue, you additionally need to prepare:

• Wooden or rubber hammer for making corners.
• Metal scissors.
• A device (sheet bending jig) for making corners of the required size. It is assembled from a thick wooden beam and a steel strip with a thickness equal to the thickness of the ceramic tile, plus 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.
• Riveter, rivets, drill with a set of drills for metal.

Materials for preparatory and finishing work

For each installation method, in addition to the tile itself, various building materials will be required.

So, to lay ceramic tiles with glue you will need:

• Heat-resistant adhesive intended for lining fireplaces and stoves.
• Primer.
• Grout for joints between tiles.
• Skirting board.

In case of “dry” installation of tiles, without glue, you need to prepare:

• Sheets of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 - 0.9 mm.
• Aluminum or steel angle for closing corners.
• Aluminum strips 2 mm thick, 20 mm wide - for making a frame on which the guides will be attached.

Prices for heat-resistant plaster for stoves

heat resistant plaster

Preparatory work

Whatever finishing method is chosen, the surface of the stove must be well prepared for plastering and cladding. These works cannot be considered secondary, since they will determine how smoothly the plaster and tile adhesive will lie on the surface.

• The first step is removing the old plaster. To make it easier to remove, you can wet the wall with water several times. If the coating consists of clay, it can be easily removed with a spatula. If the solution was made with the addition of cement, then you may have to use a chisel and hammer. But, you need to remember that the furnace wall must be completely freed from the old plaster layer to “clean” brick.

Removing old plaster

• Having removed the plaster from the surface, you need to walk over it manually with an iron brush, or with a grinder, attaching a special attachment to it.

Cleaning the surface with a stiff wire brush

• Next, the surface is well sprayed with water from a spray bottle, and the seams between the bricks are cleaned to a depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm - this is necessary for the plaster to adhere well to the wall.

For greater effect, the surface should be moistened

• If the masonry is new, then it must be well dried, and it also needs to be cleaned, since in any case, residual mortar or dust linger on the surface.
• Upon completion of cleaning, the wall must be well primed, and the soil should reach the depth of the masonry joints. Before moving on to the next work, the wall is left until completely dry. It would be optimal to spare no primer and apply it twice.

The surface requires priming, and best of all - twice

• Next, the walls of the oven must be checked for their straightness, since laid tiles will not be able to make them even and will only emphasize differences, if they exist. The process is carried out using a building level and a plumb line.
• If differences are detected, the wall will have to be leveled.

To do this, focusing on the plumb line, metal beacon profiles are placed on the wall. It is desirable that the height of the leveling layer be no more than 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Attaching the beacon profile

Leveling is carried out with a plaster mixture, which is intended for finishing stoves.

If the layer of plaster is thin, then it is applied using a wide spatula, immediately leveling the solution.

A thin layer can be applied and leveled with a spatula

A thick layer of mortar is applied using the throwing method (“spraying”), and then leveled using a rule, moving it along the fixed beacons.

If strong leveling is necessary, sketch the solution and then level it using the rule

• If, when removing the old plaster, knocked down corners are found, they must be strengthened by reinforcing them with a perforated metal corner before applying the solution.

Strengthening and leveling corners with metal profiles, reinforcing walls with mesh

• After the plaster solution has set, it is recommended to attach a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to it on a thin layer of adhesive mixture. When the glue dries, the mesh is covered with another thin adhesive layer, which, in turn, should also dry well.

Sometimes reinforcement is carried out with a metal mesh, which is attached directly to the brick before leveling the wall using nails with wide heads driven into the seams between the rows.

• The leveled plastered wall must dry thoroughly before carrying out further work.
• If the tiles will be mounted with glue, then it is better to prime the dry plastered surface again - this will help the tiles to be more securely fixed to the wall.

Once again, I would like to remind you that the preparation of the furnace walls before facing work must be carried out very carefully, otherwise the glued tiles will begin to fall off due to temperature changes. Well, if the installation of the finishing material is carried out on a metal frame, fixed to an old, dilapidated plaster layer, then it is possible that the entire structure will move away from the wall along with the old plaster and tiles.

Adhesive for tiling ovens

Tiling a stove can be done using different solutions, but in order not to rack your brains and calculate the proportions of the components, it is better to buy ready-made glue, specially designed for finishing stoves and fireplaces.

Special adhesive composition specifically for stoves and fireplaces

Some craftsmen prefer to use cement mortar with the addition of PVA glue or salt.

If you add a little ordinary table salt to the finished masonry glue, it will not be worse, since this substance can accumulate moisture and thereby prevent the glue, concrete or clay from drying out quickly. Therefore, no matter what solution is chosen, adding salt to it will not hurt.

How to cut tiles?

Another process that can also be classified as preparatory work is cutting tiles. It is better to know in advance how to do this correctly, since you can ruin a lot of facing material before you can cut out the necessary fragments with high quality.

The most important thing in cutting tiles is accuracy and dexterity. Once you have a little experience, the work will go easily.

• This process is easiest to perform if you have a small tile cutter at your disposal.

Of course, the most convenient tool is a tabletop tile cutter.

— The first thing to do is measure the required distance on the tile and draw a line along the ruler with a marker.

-The tile is then secured in the tile cutter so that the marked line is located under the cutting roller.

— Next, the roller, without much pressure, is drawn along the mark, which will be the fault line.

“Then the lever is lowered and the tile breaks into two parts.

When there is little experience in this process, it will take one ÷ two minutes of time. But in order for the tile cutter to work efficiently, before starting work you need to:

— Pour a few drops of machine oil onto the roller and the guide frame.

— You need to check how well the roller is secured, that is, it should not move from side to side, otherwise the cut will be uneven.

— If the tile cutter has already been actively used, then the cutting roller may need to be replaced. It can be found in stores that sell tiles.

The tile cutter allows you to cut tiles, even those with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

• Another tool for cutting tiles is a manual tile cutter. If you purchase this tool, it must be of high quality. It should be said that it is unlikely to be suitable for thick floor tiles, but if the stove is finished with wall material, then such a tool may be sufficient.

Hand tools - tile cutters and nippers

• In addition to tile cutters, a jigsaw can be used for cutting, on which you need to install a special tungsten carbide file. But when using this method, you need to take into account that each tile will take about 10 minutes.
• If you install a special circle on the grinder, it will also be suitable for making straight cuts on ceramic tiles.
• Some craftsmen successfully cut tiles with a regular glass cutter, running it along a metal ruler laid along a drawn line. This cutting method requires the application of a certain amount of force both when drawing the line and when breaking the tile in two. In addition, without experience in carrying out such a process, you can seriously damage your hand.

Experienced tilers sometimes make do with a regular glass cutter.

Therefore, the best and safest option is still a large tile cutter, which is installed on a reliable table or directly on the floor.

If the edge of the cut tile is not perfectly smooth, it can be trimmed with a grinding stone.

Cladding the stove with ceramic tiles using glue

Moving directly to the cladding, the work is carried out as follows:

• Laying tiles on the walls of the furnace begins from the bottom. Therefore, the first thing to do is to beat off the line of the first row. The marking is carried out using a painted cord, which is aligned horizontally along the intended risks, checking the building level, pulled back and released. The cord will leave a perfectly straight line on the wall along which the first row will be laid.
• Since the tiles may initially slide down the wall, it is recommended to secure a metal perforated corner along the broken line.

Aluminum perforated corner

It is fixed to the wall with dowels in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. The size of the corner is selected according to the thickness of the tile. If you choose it correctly, the profile will not be noticeable after installing the tiles on it.

If it was not possible to find a corner of the required size, then a 15x25 mm wooden strip or a wide glazing bead, which is temporarily fixed from below along the broken line, will do. This improvised guide is removed after the masonry is completed and the glue has completely dried.

• You can attach perforated corners to the corners of the stove, which will form the corner joint, since without this it is quite difficult to make it neat.

Profile for facing external corners of tiles

To do this, you need to choose a profile that has a roundness at the junction of the sides, which, when installing the element on the walls, will end up at the corner of the wall. The ends of the glued tiles will be pressed against this profile on both sides.

The corner is fixed to the wall with small dowels in increments of 300-350 mm.

• After preparing the wall and tiles, you can proceed to preparing the glue. To do this, water is poured into the prepared container, then the prepared mixture is poured into it, and mixed using an electric drill and a mixer attachment. As mentioned, a small amount of salt may be added.

Mixing tile adhesive

After mixing, the solution should sit for 10 ÷ 12 minutes - during this period the polymer additives included in its composition enter into the necessary reaction, and the mixture becomes a full-fledged glue.

• Next, you can move on to laying the first row.

The adhesive mass is applied to the wall using a notched trowel. The glue is distributed over an area of ​​5 ÷ 7 tiles, since it should not have time to set during laying.

Application and distribution of glue on the surface of the stove wall

• Tiles are laid on a glue-coated surface, between which crosses are installed in both vertical and horizontal joints. Usually two crosses are installed on each side of the tile. This is done to maintain the same thickness of the seams. When lining stoves (for example, when using terracotta tiles), fairly large gaps are used, even 10 mm, so sometimes cut pieces of drywall are used instead of crosses.

Laying tiles with installation of calibration crosses

• Each tile is pressed tightly against the wall, its horizontal and vertical position is immediately checked by the building level.
• Any adhesive that has come out between the tiles into the seams must be removed immediately. The joint space should remain empty, as it will be filled with grout later.
• When laying tiles, you need to remember that if they are installed unevenly, they can still be corrected on the wall within 12 ÷ 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will have set and you cannot move the finishing material on it. In this case, you will have to remove the tiles from the wall, clean off the glue and do all the work again. So it is better to immediately approach installation with maximum care and accuracy.
• Having laid out 4 ÷ 5 rows, you need to take a break for two ÷ three hours so that the lower rows set well.
• After this, you can complete the masonry completely and leave it to dry for 24 ÷ 36 hours. However, we should not forget about cleaning the surface of the tile from any glue stains that may have fallen on it. Now it won’t be difficult to wipe them off, but when the ruts finally set, removing these stains will become a very difficult task.

Grouting joints using a rubber spatula

• After the glue has set for a period of time, you can proceed to grouting the joints. Only those grouts that have a heat resistance of at least 200 °C are used for the oven. The composition for this is often selected according to the color of the tile, but you should not choose white, since with temperature changes it can acquire a dirty tint.
• When sealing seams, excess grout from glazed tiles must be immediately removed with a damp sponge. This composition dries quickly, and after even a short time it will be difficult to remove.

Filling joints between terracotta tiles

• If the cladding was done with terracotta tiles, a construction gun with a tube is usually used to fill the joints. The seams are filled to the full depth and left for one and a half to two hours. After this, “joining” is done, for example, with a wide flat screwdriver or a wire loop. In this case, you should not try to wipe off accidentally spilled grout from the surface of the tile - it is better to wait for it to dry completely, and then carefully pick it out with a thin screwdriver or a knife blade.

Video: how to tile a stove with terracotta tiles

Cladding the stove with ceramic tiles without glue

Prices for ceramic tiles for oven cladding

Ceramic tile

This installation method is suitable for those craftsmen who do not want to use glue and who express doubts that using the adhesive mass will result in high-quality tiling of the stove.

Oven tiled using “dry” technology on a metal frame

This method is also good because the cladding will not react in any way to increases and decreases in temperature, and an air cushion is formed between the wall and the tile, where hot air is trapped. Therefore, it turns out that such cladding is to some extent reminiscent of tile structures. Cladding a stove in this way is quite simple - the main thing is to take very careful measurements and accurately manufacture the frame elements, and also carry out the work slowly and very carefully.

The entire structure consists of a kind of frame made of metal profiles, into which ceramic tiles are laid, as if along guides.

This method of finishing a stove is accessible even to those unfamiliar with the art of a tiler or stove maker. If you carry out the work correctly, carefully calculating your actions, then the cladding will turn out no worse than that made using the technology of laying tiles with glue. Another advantage of this installation method is that, using frame rows, you can lay out any pattern from tiles of different colors, having prepared its diagram in advance. Study liquid insulation for walls on our website.