Insulation of a metal frame from a profile pipe

In modern construction, metal structures are used quite often due to the combination of properties that are inaccessible to other materials: strength and reliability and, at the same time, low weight, and with proper use, durability of use is also added. Customers are pleased with the high speed of construction work and its low cost. But there is also a big drawback: insulation of metal structures is required, since metal has high thermal conductivity.

Insulating metal structures from the inside using sprayed polyurethane foam is one of the best options: high aggression with metal, low thermal conductivity.

How to insulate a metal frame with a cold attic, the columns go into the parapet

Insulation from the inside was considered, but there will be a collective farm option, especially since the area is seismic, it’s stupid to install gas blocks from the inside of the racks, we lose evenness and square meters
for 20 minutes. —— Yes, just metal sheets are welded for tightness, like tanks, only all straight

small boss in a large local office

1. We insulate everything outside. We do not heat the attic. The columns will be “warm” within the attic. 2. We insulate the columns inside the room, the ceiling is insulated. The columns are cold, but there will be no condensation, since they are inside the insulation.

insulation thickness based on dew point in special programs.

in your case, you will have to insulate all the columns at the level of the attic, but do not forget that the parapet fiber-reinforced concrete (decorative element) is attached to these columns by means of horizontal beams with a pitch of 500mm, if they are also insulated, it will not really be much

insulation thickness based on dew point in special programs.

this will have to insulate all the beams inside since they are rigidly welded to the columns, it is expensive and inconvenient to insulate the beams on top, as far as I understand, the main thermal insulation will be attached there to already wooden beams

4 min. —— Colleagues, is there a simple and durable solution, like our grandfathers did?

Source

Simple, inexpensive, reliable

Since money has already been invested in the facade and its insulation, the desire to make an additional layer inexpensively and with maximum return is fully justified. The most affordable insulation material is glass mineral wool. If you deviate slightly from the standard installation of glass wool between the laths, then the economical step-by-step technology looks like this:

A vapor barrier is stapled to the existing façade. We proceed from the fact that since the room is cold, heat loss could occur due to a violation of the vapor barrier - therefore we perform the full insulation cycle almost all over again;
Instead of wooden frame bars for installing glass wool, you will need: a metal framing profile; mounting angles for profiles, hangers, disc dowels;
A profile selected according to the thickness of the insulation, usually 50 mm, is attached to metal corners along the perimeter of the surface to be coated;
Suspensions, usually 4 pcs. on the insulation board, attached to the facade;
A slab of glass wool is inserted into the groove of the profile and then cut through with hangers and fixed to them;
A disc-shaped dowel is driven into the center of each slab for final fixation of the wool;
Next, close to the surface, subsequent insulation boards are secured in a similar manner;
Then the insulated facade is covered with a windproof film, which is attached with four disc-shaped dowels through the film on each slab to the surface of the facade;
After completing the installation of the windbreak, profile posts are attached to the surface for installing siding cladding.

Additional insulation of a frame house with glass mineral wool can be done from the outside using OSB, moisture-resistant plywood, lining and other materials.

The surface of the facade must first be cleaned and leveled

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Based on real events! Construction of a workshop in -20 degrees Celsius. Perhaps these two sentences best describe the experience of a FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname VMG. Background - a portal member builds custom boats. The owner of the premises raised the rent for the workshop three times in winter. VMG had to make room and, with all the tools, go to their site. But we need to work. Time is running out. A standard cabin will not do. It will not fit oversized parts. Exit? Quickly build an inexpensive workshop measuring 7000x3800 mm. Let's tell you how VMG succeeded.

Which foundation to choose for a workshop
How to build a workshop on a metal frame
How to make a floor in a workshop
How to bring materials to the site
How to cover the walls of a workshop
How to insulate a workshop
How to heat a workshop in winter
How much did it cost to build a workshop from metal pipes and corrugated sheets?

Reasons for heat loss

The main problem of low thermal efficiency of houses is most often not the poor quality of wall insulation materials, but design and construction flaws:

Insufficient thickness of the insulating layer; for the middle zone it should be at least 15 cm;
The frame racks, which became a source of cold entering the house when they freeze, are not insulated;
The insulation boards are loosely laid among themselves or in the frame cells, which allowed the formation of cold bridges;
There is no moisture-protective layer or vapor barrier, which led to a decrease in the quality of the insulation;
There are no ventilation ducts.

Pile-screw foundation for a workshop

So, VMG began construction of the workshop in the winter. The task is to quickly put up the “box”. How to do this if:

It's frosty outside
Time is short
Concreting is no longer necessary

The solution is to put the workshop on “all-weather” screw piles.

I bought four piles. They turned it themselves. I used a jackhammer to remove the frozen soil to a depth of 0.3 - 0.4 m. Next came ordinary soil. The piles were screwed in without any problems. It turned out that one side of the workshop stands on stilts, and the other side rests on a concrete platform - the base of the canopy in front of the house.

Workshop frame made of metal profiles

When building a workshop, everyone chooses a material and technology familiar to them. For some it is a wooden frame. For others - gas or foam concrete. VMG works with metal, so he chose a metal profile.

I welded the base for the workshop from scraps of the 12th channel. Logs made of profile pipe with a cross section of 10x5 cm, wall thickness 3 mm. I also had to buy a profile pipe 50x50x2 mm. The profile was welded on the base of the “platform”. It was -20°C outside. The pipes are covered with snow and ice. Therefore, it was not possible to paint them. I think it’s not a problem, there will be enough for my lifetime and there will be some left for my children.

Source

Is it necessary to insulate a metal garage?

A structure made of a metal profile and thin-sheet galvanized steel has the property of quickly heating up and releasing heat to the environment. Therefore, in hot weather it is stuffy to be in the garage, and in winter the car freezes. As a result, transport servicing is accompanied by significant discomfort.

When temperatures change inside the structure and on the surface of the car, condensation forms. Moisture has a destructive effect on the anti-corrosion coating. This fact leads to the appearance of rust on the metal.

Metal walls without anti-corrosion protection in damp rooms quickly rust

The extremely low temperature according to SNiP 02/21/99 is considered to be +5 degrees Celsius. This condition can only be ensured by thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling of the garage. The event will also help prevent overheating indoors in the summer.

Fire prevention technology

To reduce the possibility of fire of foam plastic and some other types of board insulation, it is recommended to use them together with mineral glass and basalt wool.

In the insulated surface, around window and door openings, instead of foam plastic, strips of non-combustible mineral wool are installed, eliminating the issue of spreading a separate outbreak to the surface.

The same narrow but effective delimiters of foam plastic boards are mounted at their joints - an excellent solution that makes it possible to use all the positive properties of combustible insulation.

Methods for insulating a metal garage

You can insulate a metal garage inside or outside. If the structure is an autonomous building, then the priority option would be to carry out work on the facade side. Often the premises are located inside the complex. In this case, the insulating materials will have to be placed indoors, on the inside.

Insulation of a metal garage from the outside

For external insulation, materials are selected in accordance with the selected finish. If plastering is involved, then it is better to stick to hard slabs. These include expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool and polyurethane foam can also be used under cladding or brickwork made from frost-resistant materials.

As an alternative, manufacturers offer ready-made decorative sheets with insulation. These include rigid slabs to which corrugated sheeting, clinker tiles or plastic panels are glued. They can be installed using a special solution, polyurethane foam or lathing.

Insulation from the outside is completed by painting

Less commonly, brick is used to insulate a metal garage. On its own, this finishing material copes with maintaining heat inside in conditions down to -15 degrees Celsius without wind. In other cases, additional thermal insulation is fixed between the masonry and the metal base and an air gap is created.

Insulation of a metal garage from the inside

The interior space of the garage is often used as a workshop, a place to store tools and things. That is, shelving, a workplace, and tanks can be located around the perimeter. This helps to reduce the area for placing a car.

Insulation of metal walls, protection of thermal insulation sheets, and decorative finishing lead to a reduction in the garage area. Therefore, when choosing materials, their thickness is taken into account. Thin-layer options are polyurethane foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

Use of polyurethane foam

Modern scheme for insulating metal structures.

Sprayed thermal insulation meets all the requirements of an ideal insulation; it is an invention of the 21st century. Polyurethane foam is extremely durable, which allows you to apply insulation not only from the inside, but also from the outside. The increase in volume after spraying makes it possible to close internal cracks, and resistance to the penetration of foreign substances will protect the structure frame from most external factors. The high speed of application is also important; it reduces the time required to complete the work.

A special installation is used to work with polyurethane foam. Its task is to mix two components (polyurethane foam components) in the required proportion. Workers are protected by special clothing and a respirator. Therefore, only specialists can perform this task.

The prepared surface is coated by spraying a layer of substance. The process itself is simple, it resembles painting a structure with a spray gun, only instead of paint, a substance gets onto the surface and turns into foam. The main task is to make the layer as uniform as possible and cover the entire surface.

A few minutes after application, the polyurethane foam foams and hardens. After this, the next layer can be applied and so on until the required thickness is achieved. The insulated surface does not require additional coating. After the foam has hardened, it is ready and suitable for use.

What features should insulation have and why?

All materials that can be used for thermal protection must meet the following requirements:

Have a low thermal conductivity coefficient;
Possess good fire safety performance;
Have low water absorption;
Have no shrinkage or shrink as low as possible;
Have good environmental friendliness.
Let's look at why these properties are needed in more detail.

Thermal conductivity

This indicator is responsible for the ability of insulation to transfer heat. The lower this coefficient, the less heat the material transmits. This means that in winter the insulation prevents the building from quickly cooling down and, accordingly, from warming up in summer.

Advice! Based on this indicator when choosing, the user must take into account the thermal conductivity coefficient when used in specific climatic conditions.

Fire safety

This indicator is responsible for the ability of insulation to withstand high temperatures without losing its functions, without deforming, without changing its structure. Insulation of frame houses with mineral wool is considered reasonable and correct because this indicator is regulated by GOST standards. Mineral wool has them and fully meets them.

Water absorption

The next important parameter after the previous one is responsible for the ability of the material to absorb moisture and retain it. If the material absorbs water strongly, it releases heat faster and stronger. This happens because the pores in the insulation are clogged with water, and, according to the laws of physics, it has greater thermal conductivity than air.

And then, if the moisture absorption is too high, the material, at too low a temperature, can simply freeze, and when it turns into ice, it can completely lose its properties.

Therefore, the smaller its parameters, the better the material.

Shrinkage

When choosing to insulate a frame house with high-quality mineral wool, you should also pay attention to this parameter. This coefficient should be as small as possible. Otherwise, over time, after shrinkage, subsidence will begin to appear in the places where the heat insulation is laid. This means that cold bridges will definitely appear there, and this is very bad. A cold bridge is an ideal area for removing heat from inside a room.

Environmental friendliness

The basis of thermal protection is insulation, which is located along the entire perimeter of the building. It is very important that it does not emit harmful radiation and fumes in the form of compounds and substances hazardous to health.

Proper insulation of a building made of metal structures

There is now a lot of information about non-destructive insulation systems used in construction. But there are few adequate sources that would describe the correct insulation of a building made of metal structures

Therefore, we decided to pay attention to this topic and tell the reader about the properties of thermal protection, which, in terms of its technological and operational parameters, will be the most functional in the project

Proper insulation of a building made of metal structures differs in technology and methods, which are usually grouped into external and internal. First, let's consider the question of whether there is a difference in the use of heat-protective technologies in different operating conditions of metal buildings and structures.

In addition, there are fewer maintenance problems with them than with USSR-era construction projects built from brick or reinforced concrete panels. It’s just been known for a long time that metal has high thermal conductivity, which is why proper insulation of a building made of metal structures is required.

Various specialists from different branches of construction, science and technology are working on the creation of thermophysical properties. Experimentally, they achieve the necessary indicators, and with the help of simple mathematical dependencies they create the theoretical physics of the process. In practice, proper insulation of a building made of metal structures cannot be carried out outside the factory. Just as it is impossible to determine the characteristics of reliability and strength. Therefore, we monitor the heat-shielding properties of multilayer building structures and products during their production.

In order for metal structures to be used for a long time, without compromising their integrity and performance characteristics, it is necessary not only to insulate them, but also to reliably protect them from moisture, without adding weight to the elements of the frame system.

Modern production uses machines and equipment with the appropriate software algorithm to ensure proper insulation of a building made of metal structures. Using this equipment, the manufacturer can be confident in the quality of their products.

Metal structures are produced after calculations have been carried out. Due to the required thickness and additional thermal insulation in building envelopes, construction projects have high thermal insulation properties.

In addition, proper insulation of a building made of metal structures includes the following characteristics:

Low thermal conductivity - effective in preventing heat loss in winter and protecting against heating in summer;

Plasticity - complete insulation of the frame with materials that evenly cover a structure of any shape;

Lack of additional fastenings - adhesion - the ability to stick to various surfaces;

Impermeability to gases and liquids - protection of the coated surface from the negative effects of moisture and various gases;

Vapor permeability - the ability to pass steam from the inside;

Durability - the service life of the insulation should be equal to the service life of the building;

Environmental friendliness - inadmissibility of releasing substances harmful to health.

Proper insulation of a building made of metal structures is the result of the competent use of insulating materials, of which there are now a great variety in Russia. Our company has many thermal insulation options, but each project uses the most effective insulation method, which allows us to create optimal additional thermal insulation of metal building structures in order to ensure energy saving conditions outlined in the Russian urban planning complex.

You can learn about thermal insulation materials online by referring to the publications of the Encyclopedia of Construction. If you are interested in proper insulation of a building made of metal structures, taking into account current GOSTs and SNIPs, contact specialists by phone and ask your questions. We are waiting for orders!

Types of insulation

The process of insulating a garage depends on the selected thermal insulation material. In some cases, installation involves additional costs for lathing and finishing; in some cases, insulation is simply applied to the walls. Since the garage is made of iron, it heats up in the sun and collects condensation well. Therefore, materials should be chosen that are most moisture resistant.

For example, mineral wool is not suitable in this case. It will begin to rot, and the insulation will have to be replaced pretty soon.

The following materials are ideal as insulation for an iron garage:

extruded polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam or penoizol;
polyurethane foam;
heat-insulating paint (for example, “Astratek”).

Polystyrene foam is durable, resistant to moisture, it is cheap to insulate, but it is highly flammable. Penoplex is a variety of it. It is twice as expensive, but the slabs are thinner if the thickness of the walls is important, and also does not require additional waterproofing. You can even insulate the floor with penoplex slabs by making a concrete screed directly on it.

Penoizol is essentially the same penoplex, only in a cylinder. It is twice as expensive and requires special equipment. It is applied to walls in the form of foam, like polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam (PPU) is more expensive, but there are no seams. Environmentally safe, non-flammable.

Disadvantages include the need for equipment to spray foam and vulnerability to sunlight.

Thermal insulation paints do not require additional wall finishing, since they are also a finishing coating. They are frost-resistant, not afraid of moisture, and can be applied quickly. A 1 mm layer of paint can replace 5 cm of mineral wool. To create the necessary thermal insulation, it is enough to apply two layers. This material is very expensive, but it does not take up useful internal space.

Not only the walls and ceiling, but also the floor should be insulated. It is through it that 20% of the heat escapes.

The insulation of iron garages itself is carried out exclusively from the inside.

Penoplex and foam plastic

Before insulation, the surface must be prepared. Remove peeling paint and clean off rust. It is recommended to paint the walls and ceiling to protect them from corrosion. The color and choice of paint is not important; it will still not be visible under the trim. Therefore, you can save money and buy something inexpensive. If the garage is made of galvanized profile, then nothing needs to be done.

If the region has frosty winters, then the thickness of the foam plastic should be at least 10 cm, penoplex - 6-7 cm. A thinner layer will not provide the required thermal insulation. The material is glued to the walls and ceiling with construction adhesive, for example, liquid nails. Can also be glued to polyurethane foam. It will expand within an hour, so the slabs should be periodically pressed against the walls. All cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam. To increase the thermal insulation properties, foil can be glued to the slabs.

If you get two layers of polystyrene foam, then one of them can be replaced with double-sided foil-coated isolon.

Next you need to make the sheathing. You can use an existing metal garage frame as a frame. The lathing is made of wood in increments of 25–30 cm. You can use a galvanized profile, but then it will be more expensive. Under no circumstances should the insulation protrude beyond the sheathing. As finishing, you can use clapboard, plywood, moisture-resistant plasterboard, OSB panels or plastic siding. Gates and doors are insulated in the same way as walls.

Polyurethane foam

The surface of the garage walls must also be prepared, special attention to oil stains - there should not be any. The air temperature in the garage should be at least 10 degrees Celsius. Both the walls and the ceiling are insulated. Polyurethane foam is sprayed using special equipment under pressure, somewhat reminiscent of the painting process. The components are mixed and at the output they give the very reaction due to which foam is formed. The material hardens very quickly. The difference between polyurethane foam and penoplex is that it gives additional rigidity to the structure; no glue is required. The thickness of the formed foam should be 3–4 cm. For comparison, this replaces 5 cm of mineral wool.

Another advantage of polyurethane foam is that it does not require lathing. The top can be covered with paint or plaster. The high cost of polyurethane foam is compensated by savings on glue, lathing and facing material, not to mention the thickness of the walls and the load of the structure.

It is impossible to leave polyurethane foam without lining, since the sun's rays have a destructive effect on it.

“Astratek” paints

“Astarek” paint is a mastic that can be applied with a brush or spray. After drying, an elastic coating is formed. The paint simultaneously acts as insulation, is used for waterproofing, and has anti-corrosion properties.

Other materials

Among such materials are the following:

Penoizol

It is a liquid form of polystyrene foam. It is characterized by durability (retains properties for more than 40 years), water resistance, and a high fire resistance limit.

Astratek

Belongs to the category of liquid insulation. The method of applying astratek is similar to applying paint, and the effectiveness of a layer of insulation with a thickness of only 1 mm is comparable to the thermal insulation properties of a layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick.

To apply thermal insulation per square meter of area you will need only 0.5 liters of astratek.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

When applying polyurethane foam, special equipment is used. The service life of this insulation is more than 70 years.

How to make a metal frame yourself?

If you need to assemble factory parts into one design, this can be easily done with help. The difficulty lies in finding the required element and installing it according to the drawings.

If it is necessary to weld frames from a profile pipe, then this is a rather complicated matter. Although for the construction of a small country house, the frame is installed similarly to a wooden one. For a one-story building, pipes of 80*80 mm are suitable; for intermediate elements, a smaller diameter is suitable. But it also needs to be insulated.

ATTENTION! For reliability, it is best to purchase a disassembled house structure from the manufacturer.

Is it worth disassembling the facade decoration?

Dismantling the existing facade finishing, its substructure, inspection and unpredictable repairs of thermal insulation in the frame are expensive and time-consuming processes. The removed facade materials are not suitable for reuse, which means significant losses.

But the choice of additional insulation method must be justified technically. If the house design with load calculations has been preserved, you should study it and understand how much weight the added layer will make the structure.

If there is no data, it is necessary to re-calculate the load capacity of the structure. Only based on these calculations can you choose insulation options.

Description of the insulation process

When insulating different types of enclosing surfaces of a frame house with mineral wool, their own insulation scheme is used. But just like for frame walls, one general rule applies - the vapor barrier of the insulation is carried out from the side of the heated room.

The vapor barrier is laid in a continuous layer without “gaps” between the insulated surfaces

Floor slab above basement

In the case when the frame house project includes a basement, a strip foundation is used as the foundation.

The standard scheme for insulating the concrete floor of the first floor with mineral wool for laying floor tiles is as follows:

Level the surface of the slab using a screed.
Lay a waterproofing layer.
Rigid slabs of mineral wool (density from 150 kg/m3) are laid.
Cover the insulation with a continuous layer of vapor barrier film.
A cement-sand screed is poured as a subfloor.
Install the floor covering.

Note : To lay parquet, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are additionally attached over the screed.

Insulated concrete floors on the ground have a similar structure.

Scheme of insulation of a concrete floor on the ground

When installing a wooden subfloor, the insulation scheme looks like this:

Overlap.
Waterproofing.
Lags.
Mineral wool between joists.
Vapor barrier.
Boards or plywood as a base for the finishing coating.

Wooden floor of the first floor

The traditional wooden floor plan looks like this:

Load-bearing floor beams resting on the foundation (beam of the bottom frame on the grillage or plinth of the strip base).
Additional logs and crossbars, which are installed taking into account the area of the room and the thickness of the subfloor boards.
Skull bars fixed at the bottom of beams, joists and cross members.
Board sheathing to support the waterproofing of the insulation.
Waterproofing membrane.
Mineral wool laid between the ceiling elements.
Vapor barrier.
Rough floor.

If the height of the subfloor allows you to install the lining from below, then you can do without a cranial block
. Note. There are other insulation schemes. For example, they use a mesh that allows you to fully use the entire volume of the ceiling for insulation. Or installing an additional counter-lattice and another layer of floor insulation for frame houses in regions with cold winters.

Insulation of the facade of a frame house

External insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is usually carried out according to the ventilated facade scheme:

Install the sheathing for laying the insulation. The height of the cross-section of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool; the layout step is chosen 5 cm less than its width.
Mineral wool mats are laid and fixed to the sheathing.
A layer of waterproofing windproof membrane is attached.
Install the counter-lattice. The height of the bar must be at least 6 cm (SNiP requirements for the size of the ventilated gap).
The walls are covered with façade panels.

One of the options for a double layer of thermal insulation - internal (between the racks) and external (along the sheathing)

Insulating a cold attic

In this case, it is not the roof that is insulated, but the wooden floor. And the vapor barrier is laid in such a way as to protect not only the mineral wool, but also the wooden beams from getting wet. The classic scheme looks like this:

A suspended ceiling is mounted along the floor beams, to which a vapor barrier is attached underneath in a continuous layer. These can be either anti-condensation or reflective vapor-proof materials.
Mineral wool is laid between the beams, on the attic side, on the false ceiling.
A waterproofing membrane is attached to the beams.

Note. According to the standards, waterproofing of the insulation of a cold attic is recommended only along the perimeter with a width of at least 1 m.

If the thickness of the insulation occupies the entire “internal” volume of the floor, then spacer slats are mounted on top of the beams to create a ventilated gap.
The floor is mounted on beams (or spacer slats).

Roof insulation

Thermal insulation of the roof can take place according to two main schemes:

With one ventilated gap between the waterproofing and the roof. A superdiffusion membrane is used, which is laid directly on top of the insulation.
With two ventilated gaps. The first is between the insulation and the waterproofing film, the second is between the film and the roof. It is used for metal roofing when waterproofing materials with limited vapor permeability are used.

Standard layout of an insulated roof with a waterproofing membrane and one ventilated gap.
The structure of the insulated roof from the attic (attic) side looks like this:

Internal lining secured to sheathing.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation placed between the rafter legs.
Waterproofing fixed to the rafters (one ventilated gap) or to the spacer batten (two ventilated gaps).
Lathing for roof installation.

Requirements for additional insulation

You should not insulate the house from the inside: this usually has an insignificant effect if the main insulating layer of the frame is made with errors or defects. In addition, internal insulation reduces the total usable area of the premises. For external insulation, three criteria can be taken as a basis:

The additional system of thermal insulation pie should not exceed the calculated load on the frame and foundation of the house: strengthening the foundation is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process;

The total thickness of the added insulation layer should be minimal and correspond to the size of the roof overhang. If you do not attach importance to this factor, then a decrease in the protective properties of the overhang from precipitation can lead to wasted spending on insulation. The insulating layer of the facade will be constantly exposed to rain and snow, which does not contribute to the effectiveness of the insulation. Altering the overhang will lead to unnecessary material and labor costs and may change the appearance of the house for the worse;

The demand for frame houses is largely due to the low cost of their construction and operation.

Therefore, when installing additional insulation, you should not use insulation materials that do not match the price of the structure: it is quite possible to find an inexpensive and effective option.

Garage Doors

Insulating a metal garage also means insulating the garage door.

Curtain device

It is recommended to make a small door in one of the garage doors, and attach a curtain made of thick fabric or polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm to the upper edge of the door, designed to retain some of the heat in the room. But it is better to use transparent plastic for this purpose, which provides sufficient visibility when leaving the garage.

The selected material should be cut into strips of such length that, when fixed above the gate, they are at a distance of 1 cm from the floor level.

The width of the strips can vary from 20 to 30 cm. The strips should be stapled to a wooden batten so that an overlap of 1.5-2 cm is formed between them.

Under the influence of gravity, the strips will hang evenly, and after a forced deviation, they will return to their original place.

Technologies for insulating walls of frame houses from the inside

Diagram of the construction of frame walls and their thermal insulation

Firstly, for this you need to stock up on the following materials:

glassine (to create a waterproofing layer);
beams or metal profiles (for assembling the frame);
vapor barrier (for example, penofol);
insulation (let's take mineral wool as an example);
edged board with a section of 2.5x15 cm and a humidity of no more than 15%.

Secondly, before moving directly to the thermal insulation of the walls, prepare them in this way:

remove dirt and dust using a broom and vacuum cleaner;
remove protruding nails (if any);
dry the walls thoroughly (you can use heaters for this purpose);
Fill all the cracks with foam.

So, the technology of wall insulation:

Waterproofing. For this, as mentioned above, we use glassine. It is cut into separate strips according to the dimensions of the walls and attached using a construction stapler.

Important! Glassine strips are laid with an overlap of 10 cm and secured along the joint in increments of 10-12 cm.

A layer of glassine will provide good waterproofing, due to which moisture will be removed from the insulation to the outside of the frame house, which in turn will dry naturally.

Frame assembly. It is made either from beams or from metal profiles (read how to properly construct a frame in our other articles). In principle, everything is visible and clear in the figure.

Wooden frame with insulation already laid

Metal frame using the example of garage insulation

Insulation of a metal or wooden frame. At this stage, the insulating material is laid. In our example, this is mineral wool. It is cut to the required size using a knife and placed between the frame posts.

Note! When cutting mineral wool, add 5 cm on each side. This is done so that the material lies as tightly as possible, without the formation of gaps between the pieces of insulation.

Do not throw away the remaining mineral wool scraps, but use them as strands laid between the joints of the insulation.

Vapor barrier. A vapor barrier such as penofol 3 mm thick is well suited for mineral wool. It is laid on walls in the same way as glassine. That is, first we cut the penofol into strips with an allowance of 5 cm, and then we overlap and secure with a stapler.

Covering the walls and thermal insulation layer with edged boards using standard technology.

This, in principle, is the whole scheme for insulating a frame house, or rather its walls.

Additional events

The inside of the garage walls requires special preparation, which includes plastering with a “warm” type of plaster or applying heat-insulating paint to the surface.

The ability to shift the dew point to the outside of the garage walls allows you to protect them from the negative effects of freezing and excessive moisture. Experts recommend installing a forced ventilation system designed for high air exchange rates.

Application of liquid thermal insulation

The use of liquid thermal insulation, presented in the form of paint or polyurethane foam, is among the most popular options. The variety of paints used provides a choice: thermos paint, isolat, etc.

Liquid foam, which is a foam-like mass, is produced directly at the construction site using the so-called. foam generator.

The hardened foam has the appearance of a hard crust with excellent adhesion.

Fastening foam boards with glue

Attaching foam plastic with glue is one of the simplest and most affordable ways to insulate garage walls from the inside.

When using it, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the issue of cleaning and degreasing metal surfaces.

This measure ensures reliable and durable fastening of the heat-insulating material.

It is best to fill the gaps formed between the sheets with polyurethane foam. After this, paint can be applied to the surface of the insulation.

When using polystyrene foam boards, it is necessary to remember about its increased flammability and the fact that during combustion a large amount of toxic substances are released.

Floor insulation

Insulation of floors in a frame house, as well as insulation of walls, is a mandatory procedure. Otherwise, all the heat will go into the basement of the house. Insulation allows you to avoid heat loss and cold air entering the room from the ground.

The sequence of work is approximately the same as when insulating walls. You will have to act depending on how the floor in the house is arranged. Usually these are logs that rest directly on the foundation or special support pillars.

And here you can see perfectly installed logs of the future floor

Note! Even at the stage of building a frame house, it is necessary to ensure that the logs are made with an interval of no more than 58 cm. Then it will be possible to simply lay mineral insulation of the required length. Too large a distance between the joists is inconvenient not only for subsequent thermal insulation, but also due to the fact that the finishing floor covering may begin to deform over time.

Floor insulation in a frame house begins with the construction of a subfloor, which is necessary for laying a heat insulator between the joists. It is made from a 10x2.5 cm edged board. The boards can be laid in various ways.

Here's one of the simplest:

Screw 5x5 cm beams from below and across all the joists so that you create a division of the floor.
Lay the edged board of the required length parallel to the joists, between them. Thus, the edges of the boards will rest on the foundation, and in the middle they will have support from the beams.

Cover the subfloor with a waterproofing membrane to protect the insulation from moisture. The membrane is attached between the logs with an overlap on them using a construction stapler (step 20-25 cm).

Next comes the installation of the heat insulator. For floors, it is better to buy rolled insulation, as it is convenient to roll it out to the desired length. It is laid in at least three layers (that is, the result should be about a 15-centimeter layer).

The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 10 cm. This way you will protect your work from water and steam that can penetrate from the room.

Vapor barrier membrane for floor

The final stage will be laying the floors themselves. It all depends on your needs and capabilities.

Important! Do not forget that all wooden materials used in the thermal insulation process must be treated with antiseptics to protect them from rot and wood beetles.

Rafter roofs

Insulation of roofs with a rafter system (with one or two slopes) is carried out - depending on the design features - as follows:

with a large distance (step) between the rafters, mineral wool is laid between them, and on top there is a continuous layer of waterproofing material (with edges overlapping at least 10 cm) and a finishing coating;
if the rafters are located frequently, the insulation must be laid under the rafters, and the moisture-proof fabric above them;
if there is an attic, the ceiling should be covered with a layer of expanded clay (20-25 cm), covered with waterproofing material and covered with a thin screed.

Advice from professionals

You can reduce the thickness of polystyrene foam when insulating a garage internally using isolon. Polyethylene foam with foil coating is glued on top of thin sheet foam indoors. The disadvantage of such insulation is its relatively soft design. It is impossible to attach heavy shelves with objects to metal walls and ceilings. Therefore, this approach is relevant for a horizontal base.

The effectiveness of foam board insulation can be increased in two ways. Arrange thin sheets in a checkerboard pattern, foaming the joints. The second option is not limited to isolon. You can also carry out a combination with mineral wool. In this case, polystyrene foam acts as a water barrier.

If the building is autonomous, then it is better to insulate the facade. This way less condensation forms. In addition, the design of the ventilation gap promotes natural weathering of moisture. Inside a metal garage, forced ventilation will be required and the working area will be reduced; outside everything happens naturally.

Ceiling

It is recommended to insulate the ceiling of an iron garage both from the inside and the outside.

For external insulation, painting agents can be used.

For internal insulation, the following options exist:

applying several layers of thermal paint;
gluing slabs of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
spraying one of the liquid materials.

It is best to glue the slabs using bitumen mastics. The seams formed when using polystyrene foam should be treated with sealant.

The insulation does not require special treatment, unlike, for example, mineral wool, which should be covered with a waterproofing layer to protect it from moisture.

For external insulation of a ceiling made from a reinforced concrete slab, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which should be glued to bitumen mastic.

To improve the waterproofing characteristics, roofing material or any under-roofing film is placed on top of the insulation.

Next, reinforcement, plastering or pouring of bitumen composition is carried out.

Thermal insulation of the outside of the roof ensures that there is no humidity inside the garage and ensures that the dew point is transferred.