An additional pump for the stove is one of the options for solving the problem with the low performance of the cooling system of domestic cars.
While operating normally in moderate operating conditions, it fails in high or low ambient temperatures. In the first case, the engine overheats; in the second, the heater fails and cannot provide an acceptable air temperature in the cabin.
In what cases should you consider installing an additional pump?
It is recommended to install an additional pump in the cooling system if:
- At air temperatures above 28-30 ° C, the engine reaches a critically high temperature (provided that the cooling system is working properly);
- During the cold season, the furnace emits fresh air at idle speed at normal engine operating temperature.
The problems described above most often occur on the VAZ-2109, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2110, rear-wheel drive “classic”, and all GAZ Volga models, with the exception of the GAZ-31105. In the latter case, a malfunction may occur even under normal temperature conditions. This is due to the large volume of coolant in the system and an insufficiently powerful pump. “alt=””> It is worth noting that there is no need to install an additional pump if overheating of the power unit or failure of the stove occurs at temperatures normal for central Russia (-25 - 25 ° C). A proper standard system will operate correctly in this thermal regime. Therefore, if it does not work properly, you should look for the fault.
Which pump to choose
Unlike the standard VAZ and GAZ pump, which has a mechanical belt or chain drive, an electric pump is used as an additional driving force. Very often, motorists use an electric pump, which is standard equipment on the Gazelle car.
The unit has high performance, but the quality of its manufacturing leaves much to be desired. Therefore, before installing such a pump, it is recommended to disassemble it, lubricate all seals with automotive sealant, reassemble it and let it dry for 24 hours.
Note. The above applies to older pumps. New GAZ pumps have good build quality. However, over time they begin to leak.
An alternative to GAZ products is to install an additional pump manufactured by Bosh. These units are distinguished by high build quality and a different operating principle. The blade rotates under the action of a magnetic coupling, and not an electric motor, as in the first case. “alt=””> Thanks to the use of such a scheme, the manufacturer managed to abandon the sealing of joints and almost completely eliminate the possibility of leaks. The disadvantages of the imported unit include its high cost and relatively low productivity (700 liters versus 1200 liters per hour for the GAZ unit).
How to install an additional pump
Installation of an additional pump on a VAZ stove can be done in the engine compartment or under the interior panel. The first option is preferable, since the sound of the pump does not penetrate into the interior and there is also no risk of flooding the interior with antifreeze in the event of leaks. Depending on the installation location, the unit can be installed at the place where the sound insulation is attached to the standard engine compartment or on additional brackets.
Installation of an additional water pump on the VAZ-2110 and other models of the domestic automobile industry is carried out on the heater supply pipe. In this way, it is possible to achieve a more active injection of coolant into the “furnace” radiator and increase heat transfer.
Note: Increased pressure in the cooling system can cause loose pipes to rupture or the radiator to rupture. Therefore, before installing additional equipment, it is recommended to conduct a complete diagnostics of the CO.
Before installing an additional pump, drain the antifreeze. After this, the pipe is cut in half at the intended installation location using a sharp blade, and the resulting ends are placed on the pump outlets. It is important to make sure that the arrow drawn on one of the outlets indicating the direction of fluid circulation is directed towards the radiator. The pipes located at the outlets are fixed with clamps. It is best to use Norma screw clamps as lesser known brands often have sharp edges and will cut the pipe.
The connection diagram to the on-board electrical network may differ depending on the tasks that the car owner sets for himself. If the pump is installed for more efficient cooling, it makes sense to connect it in such a way that it runs constantly when the ignition is on. The unit can be connected directly from the battery, but the circuit must be closed through a relay, which is activated after turning the ignition key.
If you plan to install an additional pump in the heating system to improve the operation of the stove at XX, it is better to connect it via a button. In this case, the power circuit will include a relay, a fuse, a pump button and a battery. Electricity is supplied via a single-wire circuit. The “minus” in this case is the body. Using such a scheme, the car owner has the opportunity to turn on the pump only when necessary. Note: it is advisable to install an additional pump according to the second power supply connection scheme, since in extremely cold conditions its prolonged operation can lead to overheating of the engine and related malfunctions.
Let's sum it up
Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that an electric pump for a stove is a fairly simple and convenient solution that allows you to increase comfort and safety when operating a car.
In practice, after installing such a pump, it is possible to warm up the interior faster, which is important when making short trips over short distances or while driving fast on the highway in winter. The glass warms up faster and sweats less during a trip, it is easier and faster to remove snow and ice from them, etc.
As for the choice of the pump itself and its installation, the additional GAZelle pump is in demand, primarily due to its low cost. At the same time, we are not talking about quality.
Finally, we note that an additional pump in a VAZ 2109, 2114 or on a budget foreign car can significantly increase the level of comfort, save on warming up the car, etc. If the installation is done correctly and the pump is working properly, the interior will heat up faster compared to the standard heating system.
The only thing is that you should periodically check the tightness of the cooling system, since even standard elements can leak. If we are talking about additional non-standard elements, in this case the connection points require separate control.
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Checking the car cooling system pump. Main symptoms of malfunctions. Diagnostics of the water pump without removal, troubleshooting with removal from the engine.
How to check the car engine cooling system for leaks and operability of all components. Diagnostics of the pump, thermostat, pipes, etc.
Common engine cooling system failures: water pump, thermostat, radiator, cooling fan and others. How to determine the reasons yourself.
Pump device. The operating principle of a centrifugal pump, an engine cooling system with two pumps and a switchable pump. Pump malfunctions and repairs.
Sources
- https://nadouchest.ru/ustanovka-jelektropompy-na-vaz-2109/
- https://auto-park24.ru/uhod/ustanovka-dopolnitelnoj-pompy-vaz-2109.html
- https://serenity-service.ru/uhod-za-avto/ustanovka-dopolnitelnoj-pompy-vaz-2109.html
- https://carnovato.ru/ustanovka-dopolnitelnojj-pompy-v-avtomobil-svoimi-rukami/
- https://litezona.ru/pompa-ot-gazeli-na-vaz-2109/
- https://remontvazov.com/dopolnitelnaya-pompa-na-pechku-vaz-2114-uteplyaemsya-k-zime
Expected results
After installing and connecting all the necessary elements, it is necessary to conduct a road test, during which the pump must run continuously for at least an hour. In this case, it is necessary to carefully inspect all points of its connection with the cooling system to eliminate leaks.
After inspection, check the moving machine. It may happen that a unit that is working properly at idle will fail when the pressure in the pipelines increases.
If everything is done correctly, the heater begins to supply warmer air and the engine cools down effectively even under heavy loads.
Domestic cars in winter in Russia are not very comfortable. And Gazelle is no exception to this rule. Drivers mainly complain about the heat supply to the cabin. Simply put, this car is quite cold in winter and the heater does not create a comfortable temperature in the cabin. To solve this problem, there is an additional pump for the Gazelle stove.
Summer is the best time to think about winter
Life goes on as usual. And if it’s still warm outside now, winter will come sooner or later. Many pages have been written about how to warm up the Gazelle again, but it seems that there is simply no better solution than installing an additional pump.
Therefore, this additional pump is necessary to improve the circulation of refrigerant in heating and cooling systems. As for the principles of working with this system, here an additional pump for the Gazelle stove is mounted on the section of the hose to the radiator after the thermostat. In this way, the speed at which the hot coolant mixture passes through the heater can be significantly increased.
Need to know
You can add a heater to the car’s heating system yourself; to do this, you need to buy an additional heating element. Or you can try and make it yourself; for these purposes you will need a second radiator and a housing for a new heating element, which can also be made at home.
Where to put
- In the distance between the front seats where the tunnel is located.
- Under the front seat.
Suitable Models
- Technomaster-8110.0500.10 and 8110.0700.10 (Tolyatti). Its price varies within 3000 rubles.
- Helios, Xeros and Zenith (Eberspächer) - are more expensive, from 3500 rubles.
Disadvantage of the Gazelevsky pump
This device has a serious drawback. Since its design is not fully thought out, after some use the pump leaks. It leaks through the seal. This problem can be solved, but the device will need to be disassembled and disassembled. Treatment consists of lubricating the gaskets with silicone or hot melt adhesive. And then the lid with gaskets is fixed.
No such deficiencies were found in Bosh pumps. This unit is assembled almost perfectly and there are no spacers. There is nowhere to lose.
Direct installation
Allow the engine to cool before starting installation. It is better to let it cool naturally. Then you need to drain the coolant into a previously prepared and clean container. It will still be useful, so it's best to keep it as clean as possible.
Next, take a new additional pump for the Gazelle stove and unscrew the screws from the impeller side. The rubber gasket that you will definitely find there must be covered with a silicone-based sealant to prevent leakage. Then assemble this structure, but throw away the screws and instead install long thin bolts under regular nuts. This way you can make the connection as tight as possible.
Now let's move on to the next step. It consists of finding the installation location of the device. There are several options. This could be the location on the pin where the washer fluid reservoir is mounted, on the pin next to the battery.
Most car enthusiasts used the second method when installing an additional pump on the Gazelle stove. This is described in the instructions for the pump. For this reason, the devices must be positioned so that the pump nozzle is directed towards the block. To do this, you need to unlock the iron clamp.
Ready? Then secure the pump and begin installing the pipes. To do this, you need to remove them from the stove and from the pipe coming out from under the manifold. Now take a piece of pre-prepared reinforced tube. It should be long enough so that you can reach the pump through the brass manifold tube without unnecessary kinks.
An adapter is useful for attaching the tube. The corner works well in this role. You can attach the part to the corner with clamps.
Connecting the pump and hose from a standard stove is much easier. There is no need to install adapters here. You just need to stretch it to the size you need and then put it all together. Also secured with clamps. Finally, to complete all the fastenings, aluminum corrugated pipe can be inserted onto the mounted pipes. This is necessary to prevent the tubes from melting. Now everything can be reliably repaired. Next we will deal with the electrical part.
Electricity
Before connecting an additional pump to the Gazelle stove, you need to look at the connection diagram for the overhaul. There are several options. One of the easiest ways is to move the button to two positions inside the machine. It's simple: on / off. For example, if it’s cold you can turn it on, if you heat it up you can turn it off.
This is a simple method, and it has a drawback. If you forget to turn off the additional pump, then the next time you start the car for heating from the alarm remote control, the pump will start and absorb heat from the cold engine. This will extend the engine warm-up time.
Professionals advise using a more complex, but more effective method. There will be a dual control system. This button is only intended to be turned on in winter and turned off in spring. This is done to ensure that the pump does not work unnecessarily.
When the button is turned on, the pump for the additional heater of the Gazelle stove will turn on/off completely automatically when the engine starts and the car moves. This circuit requires a two-position relay. The pump has a certain power, so the relay needs a current of 3 A.
Variant of the scheme for the VAZ-2114
We connect the motor through a fuse and a relay rated at 10 Amps. The relay will be turned on by a button attached to the device.
Scheme (simple version)
The “+” voltage was taken directly from the battery, but this can be done - a sealed holder “hangs” on the wire, where the fuse (5A) is located. Installing a button looks simple:
- Remove all the handles;
- Move the plastic panel towards you;
- We install a new button and connect the wires.
As a result, you can see what is shown in the photo.
Circulation button
What can be improved
- A diode is connected in parallel with the relay winding in the “back to front” direction, thereby extending the service life of the button;
- Connecting to the battery directly is bad. It’s better to find another point with a “plus”;
What we got
Pumps: descriptions and technical specifications
Among domestic manufacturers, products can be distinguished. This company has been producing heat pumps for a long time. The products include devices for gazelles and modifications.
For Gazelles, the company offers a series of devices based on pump No. 47.3780. This is a household additional pump for the Gazelle stove. Technical characteristics allow you to work efficiently in the heating system. The device is powered by 12 V. The operating current required for this pump is 4.2 A. The pump works with antifreeze or antifreeze. The device is connected to the network via a single-wire connector. The nozzle size here is 20mm.
You can see another pump from the same manufacturer. It has a smaller nozzle diameter. Here this size is 18 mm.
Additional pump for the Gazelle Business stove differs from the usual one in the presence of two wires instead of one.
What does it give
An additional VAZ 2114 pump provides warmth and comfort in your favorite car. You can save a lot on warming up your car if you like comfort. In practice, the car will noticeably heat up within 5 minutes after turning on the heating system, which cannot be achieved using a standard heating system.
Speaking of pros and cons: firstly, the domestic pump has only a plus, and the minus is the unit housing itself, and secondly, it is better not to leave a plus on the battery, despite the fuse, it is better to look for another point to connect it.
Foreign pump
Imported devices have a number of advantages over domestic ones. One of them is weight. For example, the Bosch device is lightweight, so it can be freely connected directly to pipes. The difference in the design is that the Gazelle pump is an oil seal. At high speeds it creates increased pressure in the system and leaks. The imported device has a non-contact design and the electric motor is in no way connected to the pump.
As for performance, it is better to purchase an additional imported pump for the Gazelle stove. Its description shows that it is superior in quality and efficiency to its domestic counterpart. Its parameters are the same as those of the domestic version. The device is powered by 12V and the tube size is 18mm.
As for the reviews about the operation of this additional pump, those who updated the heating in the Gazelle in this way were satisfied. In the harsh Russian winters, the car interior became warm and comfortable.
It would seem that now is not the time for pomp. But, as they say, prepare your sleigh in the summer. It also makes a difference in the summer in the sun, poking around under the hood, draining coolant, or during the first frost. By the way, I managed to dig around in the cold, well, first of all.
There are a lot of descriptions for installing an additional pump; there is something to compare with, if anything. In addition, there is always the opportunity to choose what to be guided by. I will not argue whether this modification is necessary or unnecessary. Let's say the reader of this post comes to the conclusion that you need to install a pump in your car. I will describe my experience, the difficulties I encountered and how I solved them.
1. Pump selection. GAZelle standard pump. Well, what should one do with such a fool?
When I went to buy it, I recommended it as a “new sample”, without an oil seal. And the size was smaller and the price was decent.
I took it, installed it, skated it for a month and went to shoot in the cold. Firstly, it’s not a thing without a gland. There is a rubber ring and there is a ceramic ring, which for some reason burst. The antifreeze worked, it flooded the pump motor, it stalled, and in short there was nothing to it.
What should I do? Those who like to save always pay twice. Actually, I opted for a new pump, only I had already decided to get a good, branded, imported one. Well-known manufacturer.
And this device is on my desk. Connectors, including original ones for some car brands (obviously for foreign cars) or standard ones. As a connecting connector, I simply took a connector from a VAZ brake fluid level sensor, etc. It could have been made simpler and better by purchasing a native connector. It is the same as the knock sensor or VAZ injectors, etc. But he wasn't in the store. So I still go with this connector. This pump basically cannot leak. It does not have an oil seal, an impeller drive shaft, or a magnetic system.
The new Bosch pump costs a little more than the so-called GAZelle pump. But you can save money. Everyone in the cities is having troubles. Let's go there and buy a used one from some Mercedes or Boomer, or from a minivan. My son-in-law, for example, inherited a 124 Mercedes. It was removed from the car, embedded in the ground. I took it home, tried to plug it in, it wouldn’t boot. Disassembled, cleaned, lubricated with Teflon grease. And that’s it, she earned it for two seasons and worked without complaints.
2. The choice has been made, now installation. There's not much to talk about or color in here. Everyone has their own imagination, everyone has their own preferences for the state of the engine compartment. I placed mine on the left cup, on the washer reservoir mounting pin. She settled in very well there. Brother-in-law is hanging right on the pipes. The trick is that it is very light, unlike our bandura. And my son-in-law didn’t even have to answer the phone. They simply cut the hose at a convenient location and connected it directly to the pump. I changed the tube and bought a piece of tube with an internal diameter of 18mm. I stuck it all into the heater radiator supply hose. The photo below shows where it is located and also shows how it is connected.
I agree, it's not very pleasant. But this was a temporary option, hastily.
3. Electrical connection. I talked about the connector, and such components were purchased.
Recirculation button. Relay ZPTF 23.3777 (self-locking). Expensive, but, again, the showdown has everything. Button connector. Air fuse. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the ZPTF relay connector in the store and didn’t go for disassembly. I had to improvise. Clips are also visible in the background. I never recommend anyone to use them. Only twists (according to science are of high quality) or welds. Thin wires, terminals, shrink film.
Remove the excess tails from the button connector. I tore everything up. New terminals crimped. Edit button. It must not have been repaired. Remove the marked bracket.
I also quickly connected it to the ZPTF relay. After that, I changed the connector for the power window buttons, which, unfortunately, I didn’t photograph.
Then we connect everything according to the following diagram.
1 relay 23.3777. Pinout: 1 Constant +12 volts. I ran the fuse directly from the battery. 2 Not used. +3 Land, wherever your heart desires, there’s a lot in the salon, I think there’s something for everyone. 4 Worker (consumer is authorized). In my case, a relay, from which, in turn, the pump is powered. 5 Signal, signal to turn on or off. It is operated by pressing a non-fixed button once. 6 + 12 volts from the ignition switch, from anywhere on the mounting block. The ignition signal is easily triggered by a multimeter or test. 2. Our button itself has changed and is not fixed. 3. A relay that does not need to be installed at all. But I made sure that the pump was closer to the power source. 4. And the pump itself. 5. Fuse. 15 amps is enough. Tested when turning off “our” leaking pump.
Well, in the end, all these connections are needed, the snot from the threads needs to be put in order and you can use it. The scheme is suitable for any car.
How does it all work? The ignition is turned on, and you can use the pump. Turn it on with one click of a button. Tired of heating up, turn it off with one click. Also, when you turn off the ignition, it also turns off. And the next time you turn on the ignition it does not turn on. Comfortable.
Notes: The Bosch pump is completely quiet, unlike ours. Ours hums like crazy, so the engine is inaudible (well, figuratively, of course). The system worked for me for three seasons. There are no cons. The only positive thing is that, at a minimum, the stove is fried, as if the glass begins to melt earlier when moving. At 40 degrees hot air is already blowing, at 80 degrees the hand at the terminals of the heating element begins to burn.
Types of circulation pumps, design
The devices in question are similar to the same products for pumping water for other purposes, the operating principle is similar, but in this case the device is created taking into account the nuances of heating: for high temperatures, their differences, as well as for the characteristics of the system, the need to regulate pressure, speed in a wide range range. The product is manufactured for insertion specifically into pipes and bypass (a whole unit with it and taps is often sold), taking into account their specifics.
Wet pump:
Dry type:
There are 2 types used: with a wet and dry rotor. The latter are more productive, but are less often used for home and domestic use, since they are noisy, with noticeable vibration, and more expensive.
The main disadvantage of all pumps is their dependence on electricity. If the facility has frequent power outages, then backup batteries are installed; a stabilizer is recommended to level out voltage surges.
As standard for a heating pump, for all types, manufacturers provide stepwise speed settings: you can select the optimal mode and control energy consumption.
A brief description of the disadvantages and advantages of the varieties is as follows. Dry type products are noisier, create vibration, are expensive, but more productive, the purity of the pumped resource is not significant. Wet - quiet, cheaper, more compact, but limited in pressure, the transported substance must be free of impurities.
There are dual models on the market used for backup in emergency situations.
