How to properly insulate a wooden house with penoplex yourself

A reliable material for insulation, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, is extruded polystyrene foam. It can be found under the names extruded polystyrene foam or XPS. In addition, manufacturers' brand names are often applied to the materials they produce.

So, Penoplex, Technoplex, Stirex slabs are all the same extruded polystyrene foam. One of the most famous companies on the Russian market producing polymer-based building materials is Penoplex. It began its activities about 15 years ago and has already deservedly won respect - today its products made from extruded polystyrene foam occupy about 50% of the entire market of thermal insulation materials in Russia. Penoplex slabs, in addition to traditional low thermal conductivity, minimal moisture absorption and high compressive strength, are also distinguished by their good quality. They are used to insulate structures from the foundation to the roof: plinths, basements, walls, floors, roofs. The production of sandwich panels with penoplex as a heat insulator has been launched. Reviews about penoplex are the best, and its price is quite affordable.

However, before using an unfamiliar material, any owner will first of all study the opinion about it: what are the reviews of penoplex from workers, builders, consumers, friends and neighbors who have used it. We will also look for reviews about penoplex insulation on the Internet: what is the price-quality ratio? Is it easy to work with? Is it worth insulating walls, floors, and foundations with this material, or is it better to look for other options (foam plastic, mineral wool) for individual rooms?

Advantages and disadvantages of such thermal insulation

Insulating a log house with expanded polystyrene from the outside has its pros and cons. Therefore, everyone must decide in advance whether he wants to do this or not. To avoid any doubts, study this issue thoroughly. Professional craftsmen highlight the following advantages:

1. Affordable price. The material is really inexpensive, which is why it is in demand among private developers.
2. The lowest thermal conductivity values, which means polystyrene foam retains a large amount of heat indoors. But even in the summer, this layer will not let heat into the house.
3. Soundproofing properties.
4. Biological inertia.
5. Long service life.
6. Light weight - can be used for buildings with low wall strength.
7. Fast and easy installation.

But there are also several disadvantages:

• the vapor permeability coefficient is slightly lower than that of other materials, which can lead to the appearance of condensation on the inner surface of the wall;
• ignites and releases caustic and toxic substances;
• under the influence of ultraviolet radiation it begins to crumble, so they immediately cover the polystyrene foam with decorative materials;
• it is necessary to strictly adhere to the installation technology and first consider an additional ventilation system.

If you still have doubts, ask your friends or neighbors how they feel about the effect of insulating a wooden house with this material.

Penoplex - what kind of material is it and its features

Penoplex, or as it is called extruded polystyrene foam, is a high-quality and effective insulation material. It is made using special technology. The result is an airy, light and durable material that comes in a variety of thicknesses. As for the characteristics, the following should be noted.

• Thermal conductivity. Here the figures turned out to be quite low, only 0.03 W/m-K. Even operating conditions do not affect the change in this parameter. Accordingly, this material is used for any insulation work.
• Water absorption. It also has a very low rate, regardless of how much liquid is poured onto the material. However, if moisture penetrates the insulation boards, it will remain strictly in the upper layers.
• Environmental friendliness. The material is considered absolutely safe for all operating conditions, since it does not contain harmful resins or toxic odors that can affect human health. This characteristic is confirmed by the relevant standards.
• Vapor permeability. This characteristic corresponds to the minimum values, since the material is not capable of passing through either hot or cold vapors. Accordingly, condensation in the layers of polystyrene foam slabs will not accumulate, and the wood will not become a victim of fungal attack.
• Chemical resistance. It is known that penoplex is capable of contact with many different substances that are used for construction. This can be alcohol-based or water-based paint. Compatible with concrete mixtures and oils.
• Strength. The state of compressive strength is quite high due to the extrusion process that is used to create the material. However, this raw material is very sensitive to mechanical stress.

The high degree of flammability, which corresponds to class G4, must also be taken into account. This indicates that the material should be used with caution in environments near open flames.

The use of penoplex for insulating a house made of solid wood Source odstroy.ru

On a note! Penoplex is able to perform its function in the temperature range -50-+75 degrees. But when the specified upper maximum is exceeded, the material begins to release harmful substances.

Is penoplex suitable for insulating a wooden house?

Since ancient times, in order to insulate a wooden building, it was lined with brick. Such buildings can often be found in villages and holiday villages. However, old methods are being replaced by new technologies that allow for quick thermal insulation and the beginning of effective heat conservation. Today, it is increasingly practiced to insulate a wooden house with penoplex, which, however, does not in any way interfere with giving it a “traditional” look using facing bricks. What other options are there for using a material such as penoplex for a wooden house? In a wooden house, you can insulate the facade and interior walls, ceiling and floor with penoplex. You can read more about how to insulate the floor of a frame house with extruded polystyrene foam here. We'll tell you more about the rest below.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Insulation of the outside walls of a wooden house with penoplex is carried out in compliance with certain rules. The structure itself is built on the principle of a ventilated facade. In addition, it is possible to use extruded polystyrene foam for stone cladding. This means that there must be a gap between the penoplex and the wooden wall of the house to ensure air flow. If this is not done and a wooden house is insulated directly along the walls with penoplex, moisture condensation and, as a result, the “start” of the rotting process can hardly be avoided.

• Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with penoplex begins with the installation of sheathing made of 50x50 mm wooden blocks.
• Insulation boards are laid in the sheathing. If the house is made of logs, then their unevenness will create conditions for ventilation. If it is a flat beam, then slats should be laid between it and the penoplex to create the necessary gap.
• The exterior finishing of a wooden house with penoplex is completed with cladding - siding, blockhouse or the all-familiar brick.

Particularly worth mentioning is frame houses. Along with the widespread use of mineral wool, penoplex for insulating a wooden frame house has also become widespread. At the same time, it can be mounted both outside and inside. Finishing the outside of a wooden house with penoplex is carried out using the technology already described, while the inside layer of insulation is usually covered with plasterboard, fiberboard or other materials for interior decoration.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside

If insulating the facade of a wooden house with penoplex from the outside is impossible for some reason, then it costs nothing to transfer this process inside. The installation methods are the same here. As already mentioned, the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house with penoplex is completed with a layer of plasterboard, lining, and decorative panels. The ventilation gap between the insulation and the wall is also important.

A good move to save heat would be not only the floor with extruded polystyrene foam, but also the ceiling and walls. In a wooden house, this material is quite acceptable for a wide variety of structures, as they say, from floor to ceiling. Its benefits are as follows:

• Small thickness saves space. For example, insulating a ceiling with sawdust requires a layer of at least 20 cm, while the thickness of extruded polystyrene foam requires much less.
• In cases where work can only be carried out from below, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with penoplex foam can be a way out of the situation.
• Simple installation on the lathing does not require much effort.

Thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house with penoplex is quite effective. True, many people use polystyrene foam and mineral wool for these purposes - the difference in price affects it. Extruded polystyrene foam is preferred by those who, firstly, cannot afford to lose extra centimeters of space (penoplex sheets are thinner than polystyrene foam with the same thermal conductivity, and even more so mineral wool), and secondly, pays fair tribute to the other properties of this excellent material (low vapor permeability, long service life). Insulation of the walls of a wooden house, including a frame one, with penoplex is possible outside and inside; it can also be used for thermal insulation of the foundation, floor, ceiling, roof. An important condition is the installation of ventilation gaps between the penoplex and the insulated wooden surface of the wall or floor. This must be remembered during installation.

Where can I buy penoplex?

You can see current prices for penoplex, and also order it with free delivery on the OZON . You can also get additional benefits by specifying Promo Code: OZONBO9518 when placing an order, for example, for your first order you will receive 300 points (1 point = 1 ruble).

Insulation of floors and foundations with peneplex

Now let's study the opinion of those who put penoplex on the floor - there are numerous reviews about this, since heated floors are quite widespread, and polystyrene foam is well suited for their installation. It is compatible with electrical equipment, and also serves as a screen that reflects heat and prevents heating the neighbors below.

What type of screed should be used for penoplex – the reviews here do not differ from the manufacturer’s recommendations. Its thickness is from 5 cm, it is often required (when laying, for example, tiles, laminate), but when installing a wooden floor you can do without a screed. There is no need to be afraid of the destruction of slabs under the weight of furniture - this material is even used for insulating floors in garages, where the loads are, of course, very significant. In general, we can say about those who have used penoplex - floor insulation receives good reviews.

• “I was interested in soundproofing floors with penoplex - I studied the reviews and decided to install it. Compared to polystyrene foam, it’s heaven and earth, at least take the thickness, but there was no need for me to raise the floor an extra 5 cm. I laid the screed on the penoplex, with the laminate on top. Soundproofing of the floor plus heat. I specifically went downstairs to ask the neighbors - indeed, it had become quieter. My child, of course, still stomps, but the audibility below is not the same.”
• “We were building a dacha - we put in polystyrene foam, both the outside walls and the floor. It has been standing for several years now, so far everything is fine and warm. They didn’t install a stove, but following the example of a neighbor they made “warm floors” - he came, turned it on and enjoyed it. By the way, penoplex is not much more expensive than polystyrene foam.”

Reviews from builders about insulating the foundation with penoplex say that there is nothing better than this material. Extruded polystyrene foam is almost ideal, solving problems such as protecting the waterproofing layer, ensuring groundwater drainage, etc. It is not biodegradable. Penoplex for foundation insulation is used in industrial construction in all climatic zones, including the Far North; it is also popular in private housing construction.

Insulation of external walls with penoplex with siding

Carrying out work on insulating external walls must follow certain rules:

• First. Preliminary preparatory work on the surface must be carried out; the wall must be free of flaws and treated with antifungal agents;
• The second step is the installation of the base profile on which the penoplex will be installed. These manipulations are necessary for an even layer of future insulation, this will provide additional protection from harmful factors.
• The next step is to install the foam boards so that there is a gap of 2 millimeters between the sheets.
• After installing the penoplex boards, they must be secured; for this purpose, special dowels or an adhesive mixture are used, which is used to pre-treat the wall surface and the penoplex sheets.
• The last stage is decorative processing or finishing of the facade with siding.

Penoplex for siding

Fill the joints with polyurethane foam

Insulation of external walls using penoplex is possible due to the lightness of the material and installation work. After completion of the repair, subject to technical nuances, you will receive additional insulation and insulation from many unpleasant external factors. Good luck with the renovation.

Results

Extruded polystyrene foam is a really good polymer insulation, the characteristics of which are higher than those of its predecessor, foam plastic. At the same time, for a wooden house it is important that the insulation allows steam to pass through, for example, like mineral wool. The low vapor permeability of EPS in this case will be a negative factor. Theoretically, Penoplex can be used to insulate roofs, floors and attic floors, although in reality this is unprofitable.

EPS is not suitable for log and beam walls. The main purpose of this material is thermal insulation of underground structural elements, such as a foundation, plinth or blind area. Also, if the soil under the house is very wet, you can use extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the ground.

Installation of insulation

So, when the choice in favor of one or another insulator has already been made, the following questions arise: how to insulate a frame house with foam plastic or penoplex? How to correctly install insulation?

It is especially preferable to use polystyrene foam as insulation for a frame house on the outside, given the fact that mineral wool, with its low moisture resistance, is much less suitable for this and is used more for internal insulation of walls.

Expanded polystyrene boards are mounted on the wall in several different ways, namely:

• Using special glue for polystyrene foam. There are two types of such glue: in the form of a dry mixture and in the form of foam. Dry adhesive, similar in appearance to tile adhesives, is diluted with water (according to the instructions) and then applied to the wall. Foam adhesive is similar to regular polyurethane foam and is usually used for smooth walls. This glue is applied using a regular foam gun. When insulating frame walls with polystyrene foam, you must be extremely careful, since this material is quite fragile and the edges of the slabs break off easily. If you plan to further plaster the walls, then during installation it is preferable to apply the adhesive not in slaps or strips, but rather distribute it over the entire joining surface of the polystyrene foam board.
• Using fasteners (“fungi”). To install slabs when insulating the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam, fastening elements are used, which are ordinary dowel-nails for concrete, but with a special cap that holds the foam plastic in the frame wall. Made of plastic, such “fungi” are not subject to corrosion and eliminate the formation of cold bridges.

Installation of polystyrene foam in a frame house using “fungi” is reliable and quite simple. The steps are as follows:

1. Holes are made in the wall corresponding to the thickness and length of the “fungi”.
2. Apply a sheet of polystyrene foam.
3. The plastic part of the “fungus” is inserted, and then the special nail that comes with the “fungus” is hammered in, thereby pushing apart its part located in the concrete

- Using a frame. When insulating a frame house with penoplex and polystyrene foam, an additional wooden frame is sometimes used, which is a lattice or strips that are attached to the wall, after which insulation is attached inside the frame itself.

Otherwise, due to the same thickness of the slats and polystyrene foam, insulation in a frame house may turn out to be ineffective, since unique cold bridges will form.

For better fastening of slabs to the wall when insulating a frame house with polystyrene foam, several options for fastening polystyrene foam can be used simultaneously. In a frame house, for example, there is a frame and “fungi” or “fungi” and glue.

Regardless of what material you prefer to use for thermal insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, your frame house will be warm and cozy. And by insulating a frame house with polystyrene foam yourself, you can also save a lot of money.

See more on this topic on our website:

1. How to insulate a timber house from the outside with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. After building a house made of timber, many people are faced with the question of how much its walls can save heat, because in our conditions of harsh winters this is the case.

Insulation of a frame house from the outside with environmentally friendly insulation Since insulation of a frame house from the outside is a task of paramount importance during the construction process, it is recommended to approach the choice of a heat insulator with particular seriousness. In addition to such characteristics

Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside Manufacturers of SIP panels and people who understand how the walls of a frame house are insulated say that well-installed walls can fully replace a half-meter wall.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam. The effectiveness of the external insulation of a wooden house equally depends on the correctness of the chosen thermal insulation material and on the correctness of the installation. One of the most widely used.

Insulation for a frame house - reviews and which one to choose If you are planning to build a frame house, then, in all likelihood, you are asking yourself the question: “What material is best to use for its thermal insulation?” Choosing insulation for frame.

How to comply with the requirements in practice?

The ideal insulation for wood should be considered one that approximately corresponds to it in terms of vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. This can be considered ecowool made from recycled waste paper or (with some stretch) mineral mats based on basalt fibers.

Subtleties of using penoplex

But here considerations of the overall cost of the project and the ease of installation of the structure often come to the fore, and that’s when many people remember penoplex - slabs made of extruded foam polystyrene. A material with unique heat-insulating properties, almost zero water absorption and a host of other useful qualities. Moreover, the Internet is full of tips and recommendations for its use. Unfortunately, even the manufacturer does not always correctly indicate the areas of application of this material.

Penoplex is sometimes used in frame construction, since the material is vapor-proof and retains heat well. However, it should only be used in combination with kiln-dried wood. EPS does not combine well with damp wood or naturally dried wood.

On the manufacturer's website, penoplex is considered as insulation for frame structures created using Finnish or Canadian technologies - and they use only high-quality chamber-dried wood in combination with special antiseptic treatment

In order for penoplex, or more precisely, a shell made of it, built around the walls, to meet all the above requirements, it is necessary to provide for a lot of nuances. So that there is no threat of biological damage, normal ventilation must be ensured.

If an array of penoplex is permeable to steam, then a separate slab is not (there are simply gaps between the slabs, which even when filled with mounting compounds do not provide the necessary tightness). So, areas with high vapor conduction voltage will be created in the insulation array, that is, all the steam that is formed in one way or another in the room will begin to pass through the walls, not through the entire surface, but only in some point areas, which is why condensation will form in these areas . And, as a consequence, there are problems of focal accumulation of moisture - in places where steam can pass through the walls.

The problem can be partially solved by creating a ventilation gap between the wooden wall and the EPS layer. But this option is not possible for fire safety reasons. Yes, the manufacturer assures that extruded polystyrene foam is safe in terms of fire, since it does not catch fire, but in the vicinity of flammable material it supports combustion well, so they are not good neighbors with wood. We reviewed the technical characteristics of EPS in more detail in this article.

In general, the construction of ventilation gaps using flammable materials with wooden walls is strictly prohibited - such a gap plays the role of a chimney with excellent draft and therefore contributes to the immediate spread of fire in the event of a fire.

Since the option of maintaining a gap is eliminated, you have to think about the tight fit of the EPS to the walls of the house. What is possible only in timber or frame construction. A log house made of round logs cannot be protected in this way.

But at the same time, additional measures will have to be taken to improve the ventilation of the interior of the house - in order to get rid of the effect of a thermos (although here the comparison with a greenhouse is more correct). And an increase in the power of supply and exhaust ventilation can affect a decrease in the efficiency of the heating system.

To remove such negativity, you will have to think about recovery schemes - mainly we are talking about preheating the air coming from the street due to the air that is removed from the room) in the ventilation system. And this will lead to additional costs, so the primary visible savings on insulating a house in this way can reduce all budget bonuses to zero.

Scheme of the traditional method of insulating a wooden house. The correct order of laying layers

Thin EPS sheets cannot be used for façade insulation in principle. Because of the same dew point. It should be located in the thickness of the polystyrene itself or on its outer surface. Shifting it to the middle of the general massif is unacceptable - the tree should be protected in every possible way from the ingress of water.

In factory-made frame structures, this problem is solved by almost completely sealing the solid wall and using chamber-dried wood, but in artisanal conditions this is simply impossible. Therefore, only enhanced ventilation.

Exterior finish over insulation

Expanded polystyrene has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. Accordingly, the linear expansion of its massif with daily and seasonal temperature fluctuations will reach serious values. Therefore, the use of a wet facade, the creation of which uses technologies that use hydraulic binders, in other words, putties and plasters, is excluded.

In theory, it is possible to create a certain base reinforcing layer around the polystyrene foam shell, which will become load-bearing. But this solution is by no means optimal. Therefore, only the frame cladding method remains.

Wet facades over EPS begin to crack and crumble within a year or two after installation. Therefore, it is better to use sheathing on a floating frame that is not rigidly connected to the heat-insulating contour

Mineral wool

It is worth noting that stone wool made from basalt rocks is quite often used (its characteristics are described in detail here). But it has a “minus” - it cannot be compressed. Therefore, very precise sizing will be required, and therefore labor costs will increase. The use of glass wool is associated with additional installation difficulties, in particular, with measures to protect the skin and respiratory tract from its dust.

Therefore, it is more advisable to use mineral wool. However, it must be taken into account that working with ecowool requires certain professional training.

For high-quality insulation, the density of mineral wool must be at least 30 kg/m3. It is better (more convenient) to use the material in the form of slabs rather than rolls. Thickness – 50 mm.

• High vapor permeability.
• Practically does not “shrink” during operation.

Technology

The total thickness of the “insulation” is usually from 10 cm. Therefore, installation is carried out in at least two layers, with offset joints between the slabs. They are placed “at odds” between structural elements (racks). The material shrinks slightly, and after laying, increasing in size, it is tightly fixed at the landing site.

Unlike foam plastic, joints are sealed with reinforcing adhesive tape. In this regard, the insulation process is simpler.

General recommendations

• Polystyrene foam is a dense material, so it will not allow the walls to “breathe.” Cotton wool absorbs moisture well. Based on this, the issue of natural ventilation is one of the paramount ones.
• A material such as glassine is excellent for waterproofing. But there must be a gap between it and the insulation (an air gap for ventilation).
• To reduce the amount of work associated with processing the material, you need to decide in advance on the size of the slabs. Based on this, mount the frame with the required distance between the posts (according to the width of the products).
• For high-quality protection of the foundation, it is better to use permanent formwork, which is mounted from slabs of the same extruded polystyrene foam. It simultaneously serves as both a mold for pouring and an insulator (hydro- and heat).

Conclusion

There are different opinions regarding the quality of insulation with this or that material. Some people may praise the same “thermal insulator” too much, but others may not like it. Here you need to understand the following.

Firstly, a lot depends on the correct choice of “product”. In this case, you must first of all focus on the conditions under which it will be used.

Secondly, the quality of thermal insulation largely depends on the conscientiousness and professionalism of the workers. After all, ill-considered actions, violation of technology and irresponsibility can ruin anything.

Before choosing the appropriate material, it is a good idea to consult with people who already live in a frame house, and most importantly, built it with their own hands. Their assessment given to the insulation used will be quite objective. You can read the material on insulating a house from the outside, where similar work is described.

There are also cheaper options - filling the gap between the walls with expanded clay, sawdust, even straw. But here everyone must decide for themselves, taking into account the following aspects:

• the walls will be thicker;
• maintainability is “zero”, since the entire structure will have to be disassembled;
• except expanded clay, all other materials quickly get wet.

We have indicated only the main aspects of insulation work. But the wall of a frame house itself is a “pie”, in which, in addition to insulation, there are other layers (waterproofing, vapor barrier). Therefore, it is necessary to study the features of their arrangement, as well as the criteria for selecting appropriate materials.

Types of penoplex

There are several variants of penoplex, the distinctive feature of which is different densities and individual technical characteristics. If you need to insulate the inside of a house made of wood or timber, use the following options:

• For insulation of external and internal structures. This type of material has a milled structure. This is what gives good adhesion to all surfaces during installation. The density of this raw material is 22 kg/m3.
• Universal "Comfort". This type is well suited for finishing any horizontal and vertical wooden surfaces for the purpose of insulation. The density of such slabs ranges from 22 kg/mm3 and higher.
• For covering the foundation. The material can be used to insulate the foundations of a wooden house and more. It is also often used to insulate partitions on the inside of a house. Its density is 27-35 kg/m3.
• For pitched roofs. This type of penoplex is excellent for insulating the roof inside the house. The material has a U-shaped edge. Due to this, the slabs are well joined and mounted. The result is a perfectly flat surface. The density is 26-34 kg/m3.

Type of penoplex for insulating structures from the outside Source avrora-sm.ru
Experts suggest using a universal type of penoplex to insulate the inside of the house.

Preparing the sheathing step by step installation

To make the lathing, you need to decide on the material from which it will be made:

Wood is more environmentally friendly, but more complex in terms of installation. The aluminum frame is much more convenient and practical. Let's move on directly to installing the sheathing:

• The first step is to clean and prepare the surface for future lathing.
• At the second stage, you will need certain tools to attach the frame to the prepared wall.
• The third step is to mark the entire surface where the sheathing frame will be installed.
• After all the preparatory work, you can begin installing the sheathing elements according to the marked marks.

Foam cutting

The industry produces sheets of foam plastic with a thickness of 20-500 mm in increments of 10 mm, less often in increments of 5 mm. Standard sizes of polystyrene foam for wall insulation:

• sheet length 100 and 200 cm;
• width from 50 to 200 cm.

Note! To perform high-quality foam insulation of a frame house, you need to carefully choose the thickness of the material!

To cut sheets of the required thickness and length, you can use several methods:

1. by using a simple stationery knife;
2. by using a nichrome spiral.

The first method is the most accessible and requires virtually no skills. It consists of the following:

• Use a pencil or marker to mark the edges of the cut;
• connect the points using a metal ruler, getting a straight line;
• Without removing the ruler, take a knife and draw along the line, and it is not necessary to completely cut through the foam;
• repeat the operation on the reverse side of the sheet;
• break off the material along the cut line.

The second method allows for a smoother cut, but requires some preparation and the availability of certain materials and devices. To make a cutter you will need nichrome wire, a step-down transformer, an insulator holder, etc.

Material selection criteria

It is important to understand that only high-quality material is selected for a reliable layer of thermal insulation. Therefore, when buying expanded polystyrene, do not make a choice on the first one you come across, focus on the following criteria:

1. Availability of quality certificates and related documentation.
2. Manufacturing standards. If the documents indicate specifications, refuse such products; GOST gives the green light to purchase.
3. Marking - PSB-S is suitable for facade insulation; this material is treated with fire retardants, which means it will extinguish on its own in the absence of a fire source.
4. Density not less than 40 kg/m3. Other options are not suitable for facade insulation.
5. Try breaking off a corner of the slab of the option you like. The scrap should be smooth, and the visible elements (balls) should have the shape of a polyhedron. If this is not the case, the option is suitable for packing things during transportation, but it will not withstand the load that the facade is subject to.

Methods for attaching penoplex to the wall, the most optimal method

To install penoplex sheets as insulation for aerated concrete and other types of walls, several fastening methods are used:

• EPS is attached with special glue or mastic;
• Use of special polyurethane foam;
• Fastening penoplex using dowels.

Each option has its own characteristics. Experienced builders use several methods simultaneously to better fix penoplex. For example, the use of glue, and additional fixation on top with dowels.

Subject to the recommendations and requirements for the use of each method, the strength of the insulation is guaranteed, which can withstand the additional protective layer of finishing.

Fastening with dowels

Fastening with polyurethane foam

Installation work

To equip walls made of foam plastic, foam boards with a thickness of 50-150 mm are usually used. The use of thinner sheets is not advisable; they will not give much effect. All work consists of performing the following steps:

insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam boards

• preparatory work. The surface of the walls must be cleaned of dirt and leveled, avoiding differences in height of more than 2 cm. To eliminate cracks and chips, putty is used, then the entire surface is primed;
• every 0.5 m, vertical plumbs are set and sheets of foam are applied, controlling the uniformity of fit;
• Before gluing the foam to the wall, use a building level to mark a line to secure the profile strip. It is necessary to support the foam sheets after gluing in their original state, and prevents the sheets from moving before the glue dries;
• After fixing the planks, they begin to install the sheets; for this, a layer of glue is applied to each sheet around the perimeter and in the center. Any tile adhesive, silicone sealant, or liquid nails can be used as an adhesive for foam plastic. There are also special compositions for cement-based foam. In construction stores you can also purchase aerosol polyurethane glue, which is inserted into a mounting gun and is capable of gluing up to 10 sheets of foam plastic;
• the sheets are applied to the prepared wall and carefully pressed, applying a level to the surface. Lay the sheets in rows from bottom to top, shifting each next row by half a sheet. In this case, the joints of the rows should form the letter “t” and fit as tightly as possible to each other;
• To seal the seams, special foam for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam for installation work is used. After the foam has dried, the protruding parts are cut off flush with the level of the insulation with a utility knife;
• The complete drying time for the glue is three days. After the glue has set, additional fixation of the sheets is performed using plastic dowels, which are not bridges for the passage of cold. Fasteners are made every 30-50 cm, and the dowels must have special washers at the ends;
• It is impossible to secure the sheets with dowels until the glue dries, this can lead to the glue coming off the wall surface and the foam peeling off;
• After installation, the dowels are covered with a layer of adhesive-based primer;
• A fiberglass mesh is fixed over the entire surface of the foam wall;
• a layer of acrylic plaster is applied on top of the mesh;
• Then the surface is painted or subjected to decorative finishing.

Video on installing polystyrene foam on a brick wall:

Subsequent wall finishing after foam plastic

How to do interior finishing after foam plastic? So, you have glued all the foam sheets to the wall, foamed the joints and waited for them to dry.

Next, you need to cut off the excess foam and check the wall for defects.

If some parts of the insulation stick out, they can be smoothed using a grater. This is especially true for unevenly protruding places in the area of ​​joints.

Use a large spatula and apply the adhesive to the entire wall. Make sure that the glue is applied evenly.

Wall finishing after foam plastic

We glue the plaster mesh to the insulation. Since the glue dries quickly, we cut the mesh in advance to a size of approximately 100x100 cm.

A large mesh may not have time to be securely fixed. After the entire wall is covered with mesh, you can begin to apply the leveling layer.

The layer should be about 3 mm thick; for this we also use a large spatula.

After drying, grouting is performed to remove unevenness.

The next layer is a special primer and a finishing coat. Read about interior decoration methods here.

We cut the mesh at the bottom with a construction knife

Styrofoam

Flaws

• Low mechanical strength. At the slightest impact, the material bends, breaks, and crumbles.
• Rodents love to live in it, which over time destroys the slabs. Consequently, you will have to periodically engage in “spot” repairs.
• When subjected to strong thermal effects (fire), the foam releases toxic fumes.
• Convenient for finishing smooth surfaces. If they have a complex configuration (bends, turns), then it is better to use a different insulation.

Advantages

• It does not absorb moisture, although a lot depends on its density. Too loose, with many pores, capable of accumulating water. But if you make high-quality waterproofing, you don’t have to worry that the thermal insulation layer will get wet. The use of dense foam plastic (extruded polystyrene foam) eliminates the need to install high-quality vapor and waterproofing. Although this should not be completely ruled out, since the remaining structural elements of the building need such protection.
• Low cost. Perhaps one of the cheapest insulation options.
• Easy to process (cut, saw).
• It dampens sounds well.
• It “holds” its shape, therefore it is suitable for finishing any surfaces (horizontal, vertical), as it will not “slip”.

Technology

The peculiarity of the installation is that the surface to be finished must be flat, otherwise various “samples” (recesses) will have to be made in the slabs, and this is undesirable. The foam should fit tightly over the entire area of ​​the sheet.

As a rule, the outside is laid in 2 - 3 layers, depending on the climatic conditions in the region. The easiest way to seal joints between sheets (plates) is with polyurethane foam.

It is necessary to pay attention so that the joints of adjacent rows do not coincide in place, otherwise a “through” gap will form, which will increase heat loss

Laying starts from the bottom. The fixation method is gluing. There are suitable formulations available for this purpose. It is better to apply the glue with a thin strip around the perimeter of the sheet, and one drop in the center. After pressing, the plate will be fixed qualitatively. But to increase the reliability of fastening, dowels (plastic) are used, which are driven into the corners.

A reinforcing mesh is placed on top, which is covered with a layer of putty.

The internal laying of the foam layer is carried out using the same method. One nuance needs to be taken into account - the thicker the slabs, the more they “conceal” the usable area. When applied to one wall, this figure is small, but in total it can reach a certain value.