How to insulate the foundation of a house from the outside with Penoplex: step-by-step instructions

Until recently, heat loss through the foundation was not taken into account; it was simply compensated by increasing the heating intensity. However, the constant rise in energy prices forced a change in the approach to the problem of insulation. Nowadays, among thermal insulation methods, the first place in terms of quality and reliability is occupied by insulating the foundations of houses from the outside with penoplex foam.

Methods for insulating the foundation with penoplex

Do-it-yourself insulation of the foundation with penoplex is done by installing slabs on the outside of the foundation.
This method will provide maximum protection of the foundation from frost, moisture and swelling of the upper layers of the soil. However, this method is easier to use even at the stage of building a house, when the soil has not yet been backfilled to the foundation walls. If you have a finished house, where exposing the external walls of the foundation for their insulation is problematic, and you decide to insulate it from the inside, it is important to remember that this will be the usual insulation of the basement of the house, rather than a full-fledged set of works on insulating the foundation. Since the foundation of your house will not receive protection from the main threats (moisture, soil, frost)

Advantages of external insulation

• Protection of the foundation from freezing;
• Moisture does not penetrate into the concrete, thereby eliminating the frequency of its seasonal freezing and defrosting, which significantly extends its service life;
• Creates an additional barrier to groundwater;
• It serves as a protective shield for the waterproofing layer, reducing the risk of mechanical damage;
• In the underground floors of the house, a favorable microclimate is created;

Foundation insulation scheme

It should be remembered that only external insulation of the foundation will give you a full guarantee of its protection, but by insulating it from the inside, you will only resort to half-measures, which, other than insulating the basement, have no function.

There is another way - this is horizontal insulation of the slab foundation, when the pie goes from bottom to top. This type of insulation is an excellent protection of the foundation from freezing; moreover, the place where the slabs are laid under the base of the foundation will not be subject to heaving of the soil in severe frosts. This method is used exclusively when insulating a slab foundation.

Scheme of horizontal insulation of a slab foundation

Calculation of Penoplex thickness

Each region of Russia has its own specific indicator of heat transfer resistance, which, if necessary, can be found on the Internet. Let's give an example of calculating the required slab thickness for the Moscow region; for this we use the following formula:

Having rounded the resulting number, we find that to insulate a foundation 0.4 m thick, a layer of insulation equal to 100 mm is required. Now let’s calculate the required number of slabs required. For example, the height of the foundation for an 8×10 house is 2 m, its perimeter is P = 8 + 8 + 10 + 10 = 36 m. Multiplying the perimeter by the height, we obtain the surface area S = 72 m².

Knowing the area of ​​one slab, and for standard Penoplex it is 0.72 m², we find that for insulation you will need exactly 100 slabs of 100 mm each. At the same time, do not forget that experts recommend laying the slabs in two layers, so you need to purchase 200 50 mm slabs.

Important! To ensure that the joints of the slabs are covered, thereby avoiding the appearance of cold bridges, experts recommend using the material in two layers when insulating the foundation, displacing the slabs during installation.

Tape-type structure insulation technology

How is the foundation insulated with polystyrene foam? Preparing the load-bearing foundation of a house, as mentioned above, is the most labor-intensive and physically difficult process. First you need to dig out the foundation with your own hands.

To do this, a trench is dug outside, along the perimeter of the construction site. Its width must be at least one meter.

The depth will depend on the place to which the soil freezes when the temperature drops. Usually, it is with this calculation in mind that the strip foundation is initially laid.

Despite the fact that the technology of insulation with extruded polystyrene foam from the outside becomes a barrier to moisture, in case of heavy floods it is recommended to install drainage.

Having retreated about 60 cm from the strip foundation of the house, they dig another shallow trench for laying drainage pipes.

Having properly equipped the drainage system, they begin to prepare the excavated base for insulation with their own hands.

The walls are cleaned of adhered pieces of soil and broken parts of concrete. Then, using a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:4, the strip foundation slabs are plastered.

Having thus leveled the surface, you don’t have to worry that the slabs will damage the waterproofing material, and this problem will subsequently affect the life of the house.

At the next stage, the leveled slabs are thermally insulated. Do-it-yourself application of several layers of waterproofing onto completely dry plaster.

As the first layer, bitumen mastic is used, and as the second layer, sheets of TechnoNIKOL are used.

Next comes the insulation of the foundation with penoplex, which is fixed on the walls in a vertical position, from bottom to top.

Penoplex is attached using any glue made on the basis of inorganic components.

The space at the joints and seams is sealed with polyurethane foam. If the thickness of the insulation seems insufficient, then a second layer is placed on top of the first layer of polystyrene foam boards in the same way so that the thickness increases slightly.

This layer is attached with an offset, which will further insulate the joints.

At the final stage, insulating the foundation with penoplex requires plastering the surface. To do this, reinforcing material is overlapped over the insulating layer.

Then a plaster cement-sand mortar is applied. After the plaster layer has completely dried, the trench is buried, but not completely, since it will still be necessary to leave room for a warm blind area.

Additionally, we suggest watching video material on this topic (including about the installation of a blind area).

Video:

How to calculate the need for insulation

Example of basement insulation

Before deciding how to insulate the foundation with penoplex, you should determine what thickness of sheets is needed.

The packaging materials of the sheets contain recommendations for the use of insulation in various climatic zones.

If you wish, you can independently make the necessary calculations of the need for insulation under the foundation of a house with penoplex foam, using the following formula for resistance and thermal conductivity:

R is an indicator of resistance and thermal conductivity. For example, in relation to Moscow it is 3.2;

H1 – width of the constructed foundation;

λ1 – coefficient indicating the thermal conductivity of the material of which the foundation is composed;

H2 – penoplex thickness;

λ2 is a coefficient indicating the thermal conductivity of penoplex.

For example, you need to do the work of insulating the foundation with penoplex yourself. Moreover, its thermal conductivity coefficient is 1.69, and its thickness is 0.40 cm, then by substituting the necessary values ​​into the formula, we get:

3.2=0.4/1.69+H2/0.032;

3.2=0.24+ H2/0.032;

2.96= H2/0.032;

H2=0.0947 m.

10 cm penoplex is perfect for insulating the foundation

Thus, to carry out work on insulating the foundation with penoplex with your own hands, you need sheets with a thickness of 95 mm. Since the industry produces 8 and 10 cm, you need to choose a thickness of 10 cm.

Now we calculate the required number of slabs, provided that the insulation height is 1 m, the entire length along the perimeter is 100 m. It is necessary to insulate (1 m x 100 m =) 100 sq.m. the outer part of the house foundation with penoplex.

The area of ​​each penoplex slab is 0.72 sq.m. As a result, we get the result that we need (100 sq.m. / 0.72 sq.m. =) 139 10 cm slabs and the question of how to insulate the foundation of a house has been resolved.

According to the technology of insulating the foundation of a house with penoplex, it is recommended to purchase 278 5 cm slabs in order to install the insulation in two layers, shifting them relative to each other. This way, all the cracks and previous joints will be closed.

Material specifications:

1. The moisture resistance of Penoplex is 0.5% of its volume (according to GOST 15588-86), so internal moisture does not freeze in the cold season.
2. The increased strength of the material (GOST EN 826-2011) can withstand severe loads during its operation (up to 27 t/m2). Service life is about 50 years.
3. Penoplex Foundation is produced in rectangular slabs measuring 600mm * 1200mm and varying thicknesses from 20 to 150mm.
4. The fire resistance of the G4 material is the same as that of wood.
5. Temperature range from -100 to +75 degrees Celsius.

Reliable insulation is not afraid of moisture, can be stored outside without a canopy

External mounting technology

It is quite possible to insulate the facade of a house with your own hands. The main condition is to follow the technology of laying penoplex. First, let's look at how to cover a “wet” façade with penoplex.

First, you should install a ready-made profile along the perimeter of the facade (at the bottom). Thanks to this detail, it will be more convenient for you to align the bottom row of insulation. It is recommended to install the profile using dowel nails

It is very important to position the guide correctly, so it is recommended to use a building level during all work. Next, the adhesive foam needs to be applied to the insulation around the perimeter and at the central point. It is advisable to leave several strips of adhesive in the center. After this, you should attach the penoplex to the wall

It is worth starting such work starting from the corner. Insert the slab into the guide profile and then press it against the wall. Be sure to check the position of the penoplex using a level.

• Then you can proceed to installing the second row of insulation:
• It should be installed with a slight offset (like a checkerboard layout).
• When all the floors are covered with insulation, you need to install penoplex on the slopes. To do this, cut the slabs into the required dimensions. Next, you need to seal the window and door openings with cut materials.
• Then you need to additionally fix the penoplex on the walls. To do this, you can use special dowels, which are popularly called “fungi” or “umbrellas”.
• To install the dowel, you need to drill a hole in the ceiling, breaking through the insulating material. The hole must correspond to the dowel (its diameter). As for the length, it should be a little longer - 5–10 mm.
• Insulation materials located on slopes do not need to be additionally secured with dowels. This completes the process of laying insulation on the “wet” façade.

When insulating a suspended facade, you should also adhere to a certain technology.

• First of all, as in other cases, the floors should be prepared.
• It is necessary to mark the floors for the correct location of the racks in the form of vertical stripes. The ideal step between these parts would be 50 cm.
• On the indicated lines on the walls you need to attach brackets with a similar vertical distance of 50 cm. To fix these elements, you can use dowel nails.

After this, you can begin covering the walls with penoplex:

It is simply strung on brackets. With this method it is not necessary to use glue at all.

It is only important to ensure that each tile is captured by at least one dowel. If you are insulating a wooden house, then it is not necessary to foam the cracks: these elements will provide good vapor permeability characteristics of the insulation, which are especially important for wood floors. If the walls in the house are made of brick or other similar material, then it is recommended to cover all cracks and joints with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to cover the surface of the penoplex with a vapor barrier material if you are insulating a wooden building. In this case, the additional film should be secured to the umbrella dowel. Next, you need to fix metal racks or wooden blocks in the brackets.

At this point, the insulation of the suspended facade can be considered complete. After this, it is permissible to proceed to the installation of decorative finishing materials. For this purpose, profile structures are most often used, on which the sheathing itself is installed, for example, lining.

Ventilation in the waiting room

Ventilation in the lobby is similar to ventilation in any other room and is designed to provide fresh, oxygen-rich air and remove stale air.

In this case, the circulation of air flows must be designed in such a way that not only the room, but also decorative and furniture elements are well ventilated and dry.

The most important “disease” of the front bench is condensation that forms on the walls and ceiling of the room. This leads to terrible consequences, namely the formation of various fungi and molds, which lead to premature decay of the wood.

Sometimes an oven is installed in the antechamber, and then the issue of air exchange disappears on its own when air flows in and out through it.

After bathing, the front room is usually ventilated and all windows and doors are opened. Despite these measures, experts still recommend installing at least a basic ventilation system on the front bench.

What to glue

How to glue penoplex to a concrete wall? In this case, it is better to choose cement-based or mineral adhesive solutions. With their help, you can achieve the maximum effect of bonding two surfaces. Such compositions have an affordable price and high adhesion rates when using penoplex for outdoor use. The composition is excellent for installing slabs to concrete, aerated concrete and sandstone. Such compositions are sold in the form of bulk mixtures and packaged in paper packaging. Before use, the mixture is mixed with water; instructions are on the package.

Mineral and cement adhesives are sold in the form of a dry mixture, which is diluted with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Source blog-potolok.ru

If you are choosing how to glue penoplex to a brick, then you need to look towards polyurethane glue. This is an ideal option for attaching penoplex to wood and brick. Such a solution can be used to insulate concrete surfaces, but in this case the cost of the result increases significantly. Polyurethane compositions are sold ready-to-use, they are sticky, and are sold in 750 ml aerosol cans.

It is very important to remember that this type of glue has one characteristic feature - it dries very quickly. Therefore, immediately after applying the adhesive, the slab must be immediately attached to the surface.

Polymer adhesives are universal and can be used on different surfaces. Provides quick fixation. Can be used to attach slabs to the ceiling. Bituminous waterproofing compounds are designed specifically for rooms with high and constant humidity.

Polymer compounds are a universal type of glue; they can be used for different surfaces and quickly glue slabs to different surfacesSource ad-cd.net

All types of adhesive compositions have their own characteristics, pros and cons. When removing glue, it is necessary to take into account working conditions, external or internal work, room humidity, and so on.

How to attach to concrete

What should I use to glue penoplex to concrete? There are several ways to attach slabs to concrete surfaces - using special adhesives, foam and liquid nails. It is necessary to select a suitable material taking into account the characteristics of the work. Experts prefer dry mineral and cement mortars developed specifically for these purposes. They have high adhesion and give a high result of bonding two surfaces. Liquid nails can only be used if penoplex will be installed on the floor. Foam is best used only to fill joints.

Special dry adhesive mixtures are designed for installing foam boards to concrete surfacesSource www.cemtorg.com

How to attach to metal

How to glue penoplex to metal? When working with metal surfaces, you can use regular polyurethane foam. The composition is applied to the sheet at five points and then pressed tightly against the metal. Many experts use PVA glue. This is a cost-effective option, but you will need to purchase additional burlap.

The gluing process occurs in two stages. First, glue is applied to the burlap and it is glued to the metal. At the second stage, a foam board is glued to the burlap, but only after the previous layer on the metal has dried well. Cladding is allowed only after the glue has completely dried. For cladding, any materials that are light in weight can be used.

To glue penoplex to metal, you can use mounting foams or PVA glue. Source imhodom.ru

Gluing the boards together

Sometimes the question arises: how to glue penoplex together? In this case, it is strictly forbidden to use any solutions that contain kerosene, alcohol or acetone. This is due to the fact that organic solvents can completely destroy the structure of the insulation. To fasten foam boards together, it is allowed to use only adhesive compositions designed for working with polymer materials.

Any dry mortars based on cement are used in this case. The best option is polymer adhesives. After application, it forms a homogeneous mass that reliably holds the sheets together. Polyurethane compounds that provide quick bonding also give quite good results.

Plates can only be glued together to increase thermal insulation properties and noise protection using polymer adhesives; it is strictly forbidden to use compositions with organic solvents Source i1.photo.2gis.com

Pros and cons of technology

The advantages of the technology include:

• High t/t characteristics of the insulation itself, including almost zero water absorption, thermal conductivity of no more than 0.034 W/m∙°C, compressive strength of up to 30 t/m². Penoplex slabs are not afraid of biological threats and aggressive soil influences, and retain their shape and useful properties for 30-50 years.
• Simplicity and high speed of installation of systems.
• Possibility of insulating any type of foundation, regardless of its depth.
• Reducing heat leakage through the base to a minimum, providing reliable protection against dampness, freezing and heaving of the soil.

The disadvantages are the need for external installation of the slabs (ideally at the stage of constructing the foundation or immediately after its laying, before backfilling with soil) and the high cost of the material itself.

Insulation after the building is put into operation and the use of Penoplex when carrying out internal insulation work is possible, but requires additional effort and expense. But the main effect - protecting the base from freezing and seasonal rise of groundwater - is achieved only with external thermal insulation.

Price of work per m² and material

Penoplex systems for foundations and structures adjacent to the base are represented by three brands:

Prices for carrying out insulation work depend on the area and depth of the foundation, the complexity of the shape of the base, the need for finishing work, the number of layers being installed and other factors. The starting cost of attaching systems to walls is 400 rubles/m².

About preparing walls for fixing penoplex

On the one hand, penoplex will not be a finishing coating for the walls, so it is not so important whether it will be evenly attached to the walls. However, it is much easier to plaster smooth walls made of polystyrene foam than curved ones.

Moreover, if there are large cavities under the penoplex, this can further lead to the destruction of the material, because the penoplex is a rather fragile (but not the same as foam) cladding material and when pressure is applied to it, it can break in front of the cavity. Moreover, excess moisture may appear in such cavities, which will lead to the development of mold and mildew and subsequently to the destruction of your walls.

Before fastening the penoplex, you need to work with the walls.

1. First of all, all dirt and waste materials, in the form of falling off plaster, etc., are removed from the walls.
2. Walls that have oily stains must be degreased.
3. It is advisable to cover the walls with a primer liquid to collect all debris and dust.
4. The walls also need to be coated with an antifungal solution to prevent mold and mildew from forming on them.

Having finished preparing the surface, we proceed to choosing a method for attaching penoplex.

Preparing the surface for installation

Penoplex panels are attached only to treated and smooth surfaces.

The preparatory stage includes the following operations:

1. The surface is carefully inspected, after which all dirt, remnants of the old destroyed coating, and peelings that will not withstand the load of the insulation are removed. Cleaning the walls with a wire brush

1. Particular attention is paid to surface damage by mold and mildew. The damaged area is cleaned with a stiff brush and then treated with a special composition, which is made at home using copper sulfate or purchased in a retail chain.

   
   Ready-made compositions against fungus and mold

1. To eliminate irregularities, a map of problem areas is drawn up. After this, alignment is performed using any of the following methods:

• plastering is a simple and reliable method. The solution is selected individually for the surface material. The insulation can be attached when the plaster has dried;

• Laying slabs of different thicknesses is a labor-intensive method that requires precise identification of irregularities. The brand of penoplex depends on its thickness. When purchasing, slabs of different thicknesses, but of the same brand, are selected;

• using shims is a method used only by experienced installers. Pieces of penoplex or plastic are used as linings.

1. Metal parts that are planned to be covered with slabs are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

   
   Anti-corrosion composition WEICON Zinc Spray

1. Brackets are mounted for equipment that will be hung in the future, for example, an air conditioner.

Houses are different, and they need to be insulated in different ways.

There is no universal means for insulation.

Methods of fastening insulation materials also directly depend on the room itself: on the surface of the walls, operating conditions. It is best to consult with specialists before starting work.

Wood and stone materials are the most common materials used in the construction of houses.

Particular attention should be paid to surface preparation. If the walls are made of brick or concrete, you will need:

• get rid of all efflorescence on the brickwork;
• clean the walls from traces of paint, dirt stains, all kinds of deposits and fuels and lubricants;
• remove dust from the surface of the walls;
• if fungus is detected, the surface must be treated with an antiseptic;
• repair chips and cracks in the surface;
• treat the surface with a primer, then smooth out any unevenness with putty;
• reapply primer for the walls.

The tree is prepared much faster and easier. You will need to apply a specialized impregnation to the wooden surface to protect it from rot and insects. After this, install the timber base, also treated with impregnation. This nuance will allow for additional ventilation of the facades of a residential building.

General installation rules

To obtain a high-quality layer of thermal insulation, you must follow the rules for attaching penoplex. First of all, you need to fix the starting bar. This can be either a wooden beam or a metal part with perforation

The second one can be bought at any hardware store, but please note that the strip must be commensurate with the width of the insulation

The bar is set after small calculations. Initially, you will need to carve out a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of a private house. It is better to secure the “starter” using dowels. This feature will at least protect against the penoplex sliding down. Before installing penoplex, the wall is processed and cleaned.

The inner side of the insulation must be rolled with a needle roller. This guarantees a rough surface, which means better adhesion to the walls.

The slabs are installed from bottom to top, and each horizontal row will need to be offset by half a slab. This type of fastening of classic penoplex to the wall ensures maximum heat retention.

Press the plates against each other as tightly as possible. To make the insulation connection as strong as possible, the second row can be attached directly to the grooves of the first. To save adhesive composition, after installation you can seal the joints with installation foam. So, how to glue penoplex to a wooden or brick wall?

Basic sequence of installation of polystyrene foam cladding

• The working surface is to be cleaned of traces of soil followed by drying. Laying begins from the corner of the building. To use glue economically, apply four fragments in the corners and one in the middle to the underside of the panels. If there is a tongue-and-groove joint, vertical and horizontal joints are coated with glue.
• Special sealing of interpanel seams is not required, but gluing with construction tape or sealing with moisture-resistant putty will prevent soil from entering the structure during a spontaneous rise in the groundwater level. Foam cladding serves as foundation waterproofing and reliable protection against seasonal movements of heaving soils.

Replacing the soil fill with expanded clay or other similar material will help completely eliminate heaving. It is allowed to use a mixture of soil and expanded clay in a 1:1 ratio.

The next option for insulating the foundation is the arrangement of an insulated blind area that can reduce the depth of maximum freezing of the foundation soil by 40-50%. The depth of the excavation located around the perimeter of the house should be sufficient for laying a sand cushion with a thickness of 50 mm or more. The laid panels serve as the basis for the concrete screed and installation of large-format tile cladding.

Bestsellers of foundation insulation at super prices!

Soil thermal insulation technology

Thermal insulation of the soil significantly reduces the estimated depth of the foundation, and therefore reduces the overall costs of its construction. It is produced by insulating the blind area.

Insulation of the blind area

Thermal insulation of soil is most often carried out after vertical thermal insulation of the foundation. To do this, near the lower edge of the slabs, backfill with sand or gravel is done 15-20 cm below the ground level. Next, plank formwork about 30 cm high is placed at a distance of a meter from the walls.

The bottom of the blind area is carefully compacted and leveled, and foam tiles are laid on it along the perimeter of the base. A polyethylene film is laid over the penoplex and concrete is poured.

So, insulating the foundation with penoplex prevents freezing of the foundation, does not allow temperature changes and, consequently, the formation of condensation. After the penoplex insulation procedure, which you can easily do yourself, the microclimate in the house improves significantly, which increases the service life of the entire structure.

Nuances that should be taken into account when insulating the base

If the foundation of the house is deepened, then before carrying out insulation work it is necessary to dig a trench along the entire base, with a depth to its base and a width of half a meter to one and a half meters.

Upon completion of the work, the trench is buried with the same soil or it will be replaced with expanded clay and sand, which improve thermal insulation.

and at a depth of about 30 cm from the top of the trench, a ten-meter layer of sand is poured and compacted tightly. After this, roofing material is laid, the width of which is slightly greater than the width of the dug trench, and its joints are coated with bitumen.

When the bitumen has hardened, penoplex is glued to the bottom of the trench on top of the roofing felt with acrylic glue, its joints are coated with polyurethane foam or the same glue. After the glue has dried, you should make a concrete screed with a slope away from the base, which will allow excess moisture to be drained away from the house.

The final finishing of the base can be done from clinker tiles, stone or using other materials. Insulating the foundation base helps reduce heat loss by more than 20%. Carrying out the work also protects the base from mechanical damage, protects against the formation of cracks and mold, and the development of fungus.

If external thermal insulation is not done, the service life of the foundation is significantly reduced due to the fact that it is exposed to harmful factors - frost, moisture. You can carry out external insulation of the foundation plinth with your own hands; for this you should purchase materials and carefully study the technology for carrying out the work.

For a master class on insulating the foundation base from the outside, watch the video step by step:

Insulation of the basement from the outside

1. Applying plaster composition over a metal mesh

1. building wall
2. Basement ceiling
3. Cutting from mineral wool slabs
4. Cement-sand plaster on metal mesh
5. Basement wall
6. Blind area
7. Insulation PENOPLEX FOUNDATION
8. Waterproofing
9. Foundation

2. Cladding with clinker tiles

1. building wall
2. Basement ceiling
3. Cutting from mineral wool slabs
4. Clinker tiles
5. Basement wall
6. Blind area
7. Insulation PENOPLEX FOUNDATION
8. Waterproofing
9. Foundation

3. “Heavy” cladding (natural/artificial stone)

1. building wall
2. Basement ceiling
3. Cutting from mineral wool slabs
4. A natural stone
5. Basement wall
6. Blind area
7. Insulation PENOPLEX FOUNDATION
8. Waterproofing
9. Foundation

4. Facing with facade panels (basement siding, block house)

1. building wall
2. Basement ceiling
3. Cutting from mineral wool slabs
4. Plinth panel
5. Basement wall
6. Blind area
7. PENOPLEX FOUNDATION
8. Waterproofing
9. Foundation

Insulation of the basement floor from the inside

1. building wall
2. Plaster on metal mesh
3. Basement ceiling
4. Cutting from mineral wool slabs
5. Facing tiles
6. Blind area
7. PENOPLEX COMFORT
8. Basement wall
9. Waterproofing

Table No. 2 “Required thickness of PENOPLEX for insulation of basement floors, including those located below ground level”

Cities Thickness "PENOPLEX" mm

Features of installing insulation on the foundation

As a rule, the foundation needs insulation in the same way as the walls. Various methods of insulating the base of a building with penoplex are used.

1. Vertical method.

Along the entire foundation there is a lower level for laying insulation.

The slab is covered with adhesive and pressed in the right place.

The entire foundation is covered with insulation using the same method. An exception may be places that are in the ground. The slabs in this place are pressed tightly against the foundation with soil.

1. Horizontal method.

In this way, the foundation from below is protected from freezing. The work is carried out at the initial stage of construction, when the foundation is just being laid.

The slabs are tightly placed on the concrete base of the formwork.

Waterproofing is laid on the insulation, and then the foundation is poured and reinforced.

After removing the formwork, the sides of the foundation are insulated.

1. Thermal protection around the house.

In this case, the foundation and the surrounding area are simultaneously insulated.

First of all, the foundation is insulated vertically.

Then formwork is made around the foundations with an indentation of 100 mm, and the blind area is prepared.

Insulation is laid in a dense layer on the compacted surface between the foundation and the formwork.

A waterproofing film is installed on top of the insulation, overlapping the foundation, after which the formwork is filled with concrete.

Heat transfer resistance table

Features of the work

After installing penoplex slabs along the entire perimeter of the building, the issue of drainage system should be resolved so that the water that will drain from the roof of the building does not seep to the very bottom of the foundation. To learn how to properly drain drainage, watch this video:

Reinforcing mesh will protect the insulation from damage

After all the foam boards have been installed, the foundation should be covered with a thin reinforcing polymer or metal mesh with a fine pattern, onto which a thin layer of adhesive or plaster should be applied. This will protect the surface of the penoplex from mechanical damage when backfilling with soil.

If it was decided to thermally insulate the surface from the inside with penoplex, then the list and sequence of work performed remains the same. Simply, after all the work has been completed, the surface of the insulation is puttied for painting or wallpapering.

Carrying out foundation insulation work with your own hands is not particularly difficult and can even be carried out by the developer himself.

Protective covering

Scheme for attaching penoplex to a brick or concrete wall
In order for the surface of the insulation to look beautiful and be durable, it must be protected. The simplest and cheapest way to protect insulation is plastering, which is carried out in stages.

1. Selection of plaster mortar.

1. Selection of reinforcing mesh for plaster mortar.

1. Fastening the reinforcing mesh using a certain technology.

1. Laying the mortar, leveling the surface, grouting with a plastic float.

1. Primer the surface for the finishing coat.

1. Finish plaster. After drying, painting is done or a transparent protective layer is applied.

Video instruction:

In general, attaching penoplex to concrete and brick walls, as well as insulating the foundation of a building, is not difficult. It is enough to follow the installation technology and carry out the work carefully to ensure that the insulation is attractive and durable.

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Foundation insulation

Insulation of the foundation. It can be performed both in a building under construction and in an already constructed one.

Despite the fact that the foundation is the underground part of the building and is closed from cold air, the soil can freeze quite deeply. In addition, the cold rises to the wall (cold bridges).

This type of work consists of three stages:

1. Insulation of the foundation (vertical and horizontal).
2. Base insulation (vertical).
3. Insulation of the blind area (horizontal).

This is important: for maximum efficiency of the process of insulating the foundation of a building, none of the above stages should be neglected. The process of insulating the foundation with penoplex slabs is as follows:

The process of insulating the foundation with penoplex slabs is as follows:

1. Before installing Penoplex slabs, it is necessary to apply a waterproofing layer.
2. Using an adhesive mixture, which is applied to the surface with a notched trowel, thermal insulation boards are mounted. The device is performed starting from the bottom row.
3. If necessary, a second layer of heat insulation is installed using the same glue.
4. Insulation is carried out up to and including the base.
5. The soil is being backfilled.
6. To avoid soil freezing, it is necessary to provide horizontal thermal insulation under the blind area along the entire perimeter of the building.
7. A fiberglass mesh is laid on the base part and the finishing of the structure is carried out.

Scheme of foundation insulation with penoplex

How to insulate the foundation of a wooden house

Many owners of wooden houses believe that to ensure favorable living conditions it is enough to insulate the walls and floors. However, this is not true, because serious heat loss can occur through a wooden floor - up to 20%. Therefore, thermal insulation of the foundation is mandatory, especially if the house is located in an area with harsh weather conditions.

Insulating the foundation of a wooden house from the outside will not only create favorable conditions indoors, but also prevent adverse effects on it. For this purpose, polystyrene foam and its varieties, as well as expanded clay, are usually used.

Stone finishing

Insulation of the foundation of PPS or EPS

Expanded polystyrene has excellent consumer properties, such as low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption, resistance to negative weather conditions, affordable cost, ease of installation, etc.

These and other characteristics have made this material one of the most relevant and in high demand among many consumers.

To insulate only the above-ground part of the foundation or plinth, a fairly simple installation is required. PPS sheets are simply attached to the surface using glue or special fasteners.

After this, cladding or plastering is performed. However, you should know that installing insulation does not mean complete waterproofing, so it should be carried out separately to avoid groundwater from penetrating under the floor.

At the summer cottage

In this case, it is necessary to completely waterproof the walls. For this purpose, a trench is dug around the wooden house, then the foundation is cleared of soil and debris. Next, EPS panels are attached to the surface, after which the whole thing is backfilled and compacted.

The insulated base can additionally be finished with brick or other types of cladding that can withstand adverse weather conditions.

Foundation insulation with expanded clay

Often a wooden house is insulated from the outside with expanded clay. However, it has increased moisture absorption.

To avoid the negative effects of this phenomenon, a trench is dug around the house and formwork with waterproofing is installed, after which the expanded clay itself is filled.

Blind area

This method is no less effective, but requires special attention and the need to adhere to all installation rules.

Tools and materials

To carry out the work you need:

• dowels with a diameter of 10 mm in diameter and a length of 120 mm with a wide cap (“mushroom”);
• primer;
• reinforcing mesh (it is recommended to use the fiberglass version);
• special glue for installing penoplex;
• sealant;
• container for mixing mortar and glue;
• perforator;
• construction mixer - you can use a regular drill with an appropriate attachment;
• level and tape measure;
• spatula and trowel;
• knife;
• self-tapping screws for dowels.

It is also advisable to use hydro- and vapor barrier. This is necessary in order to prevent moisture from being absorbed into the penoplex, as this will cause it to quickly lose its properties.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulating layer

The manufacturer indicates the required thickness and parameters of the insulating material depending on the region of residence:

The calculation of the minimum thickness is also, if desired, carried out using the formula:

Т = (s1/y1) + (s2/y2) , where:

• T – heat transfer resistance (tabular value selected based on the region of residence);
• s1 – foundation thickness;
• y1 – thermal conductivity of concrete or other base material;
• s2 – thickness of the insulating layer;
• y2 – thermal conductivity coefficient of Penoplex slabs.

The thickness is rounded upward ; the area of ​​the slabs is calculated based on the dimensions of the base and the need for its complete and monolithic closure below the freezing level, including the basement area.

Tips for use

To make the process of thermal insulation of your home effective, comfortable and economical, you should take into account some professional advice:

1. For beginning craftsmen, use the mixture in aerosol cans and avoid using quick-drying compounds, since mistakes made are difficult to correct.
2. Make calculations on the amount of glue required, taking into account the information indicated on the packaging. Purchase material with a reserve, since more mixture is wasted on surfaces with defects.
3. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for diluting dry mixtures and their use.
4. Apply the composition no more than 2-3 mm. The increased amount of material will not make the fastening stronger, but will lead to costs.
5. Level the penoplex immediately after contact with the surface, without waiting for the glue to set.
6. Take precautions when working with hazardous compounds.

Taking into account the recommendations of professionals and purchasing high-quality materials, even an inexperienced builder will be able to carry out insulation quickly, reliably and efficiently.

Today there is no consensus on which adhesive mixture is best suited for installing penoplex. It is necessary to make a choice based on the characteristics of each specific situation. By taking care of thermal insulation at the time of building a house, it will be possible to reduce the consumption of building materials and make the process less labor-intensive.

Can it be used?

Penoplex is extruded polystyrene foam, which is obtained by foaming polystyrene foam and extruding it using an extruder.

During the production process, gaseous substances leave the resulting mass, leaving many tiny, evenly spaced voids in it. The end result is a lightweight, but at the same time, durable insulation , which is almost 95% air.

Several modifications of Penoplex can be purchased in the retail chain, with specific areas of application already indicated in the name.

So, for thermal protection of concrete surfaces, “Penoplex Wall” with very high thermal characteristics is installed.

A sheet 100 mm thick has a heat transfer capacity equivalent to one and a half bricks. This material is resistant to acid and alkaline solutions, which is why it can be easily plastered and painted with water-based compositions.

This insulation can be used both for installation inside and outside load-bearing walls. To perform external thermal protection of a reinforced concrete house, Penoplex “Facade” is installed with dimensions of 1200x600 mm and a thickness of 2 to 15 cm. For internal thermal protection of such walls, Penoplex “Comfort” is produced.

Considering that this heat insulator cannot work with large temperature differences, it is therefore not recommended for installation in production shops with high heat generation, in baths and saunas, as well as in places where there may be concentrations of rodents.

What adhesives are used for installing penoplex?

Let us immediately make a reservation that although the article is devoted to materials for gluing extruded polystyrene foam, many of them are also suitable for white foam. Many, but not all, about which a reservation will be made in the course of further presentation.

Adhesive compositions for waterproofing plans

The scope of application of such adhesives is obvious - where, in addition to insulation, it is necessary to maintain or even re-create a waterproofing layer on the surface of a building structure. Perhaps the most typical example of such use of penoplex is the insulation of the walls of a strip foundation, in its recessed part. Another area is flat roofs that need insulation before laying down the chosen roof covering or pouring concrete screed. In some cases it can also be used for waterproofing and insulating floors.

Special bitumen mastics have pronounced waterproofing properties.

It is not in vain that bitumen mastic must be special. The fact is that in the production of some of them, organic solvents are used that decompose the structure of expanded polystyrene - gasoline and diesel fuel, benzene and toluene and others. In no case will a homemade primer (bitumen diluted in gasoline) be suitable, which, due to its cheapness, is quite often used for waterproofing work or anti-corrosion treatment.

An excellent example of bitumen mastic designed specifically for installing EPS insulation is Bitumast XPS adhesive. Its packaging clearly states its main function.

Adhesive "Bitumast XPS" in standard packaging - 5.0 or 21.5 liters.

The composition is supplied for sale in hermetically sealed buckets, ready for use. In the production of this mastic, a solvent is used that does not react with extruded polystyrene foam and cannot harm it. It is prohibited to use any other solvents to bring the composition into working readiness. If the mastic thickens, it will be enough to heat it without using open fire to a temperature of 35–40 degrees. It is advisable to carry out work at a positive temperature, or at least in frost no more than -5 ℃.

If waterproofing has not yet been carried out on the insulated surface, then it is cleaned, if necessary, repaired, and then pre-treated with a bitumen primer, preferably the same.

In this case, the adhesive mastic is applied to the insulated surface in a continuous layer and spread with a comb spatula (tooth height - 5 mm). Typically, an area sufficient for the installation of one or two slabs is processed. After this, the foam boards are laid, joined at the end locks (if provided) and pressed tightly to the surface. If necessary, supports are installed to fix the material in a pressed position, since complete hardening of the adhesive layer at a temperature of +20 ℃ is achieved only after 24 hours. However, most often, with good preparation, even on a vertical surface, the slabs “stick” very well from the very beginning, but It doesn't hurt to check. Well, after complete hardening, the adhesion strength of the slab to a concrete or even metal base will be at least 5 kgf/cm².

If this seems more convenient, then the mastic can be applied and distributed with a comb spatula and directly onto the foam board.

If the surface already has a reliable continuous waterproofing layer, then you can limit yourself to the spot application of bitumen glue on the penoplex. For example, small slides in six to eight places, evenly spaced over the area of ​​the thermal insulation slab. Such savings will be especially relevant when thermally insulating the foundation in its buried part - after backfilling, the slabs will definitely be pressed tightly against the wall by soil pressure, and you don’t have to worry about their displacement.

If the foundation has received reliable waterproofing, then you can save on mastic - apply it pointwise to the foam boards. All the same, the backfilled soil will not allow the insulation layer to subsequently move.

The approximate consumption of such bitumen-based adhesive is about 1.5 liters per square meter of insulated surface when applied continuously. With spot application (with an application step of about 300 mm), you can limit the consumption to 0.5÷0.8 l/m².

The cost of “Bitumast XPS” is about 1,500 rubles. per bucket 21.5 liters. By the way, if you look at the price level, it is striking that it is more profitable to purchase mastic in large packaging. The approximate cost of a small bucket (only 5 liters) is 500 ÷ 600 rubles.

A few more words about the use of glue when insulating the foundation. If the waterproofing of the walls in the recessed part was carried out using bitumen fused roll materials (modern versions of roofing felt), then some craftsmen act even simpler. When installing penoplex, they lightly melt the rolled waterproofing at several points using a gas burner, and insulation boards are successfully glued onto these softened “spots”. Which will subsequently, again, be pressed down by the soil backfilled.

A practiced, but perhaps not particularly recommended, method of gluing foam boards to foundation walls is by melting sections of previously installed roll waterproofing.

True, it is difficult to say how safe this method is. In the sense that there is a possibility of burning through the waterproofing layer, that is, losing its reliability.

Why and how is a strip foundation insulated?

Some novice builders even become perplexed - is it really necessary to insulate a reinforced concrete foundation strip? Yes, just imagine. And why, what materials are used and how strip foundations are insulated - read in a special publication on our portal.

Mineral-based adhesives

It would seem that incompatible things are polymer insulation and cement-based mineral compositions. It turns out that they go together very well. Unless, of course, the composition is specifically designed for thermal insulation work.

Not only do mineral adhesives provide very reliable fixation (subject to installation technology, of course). They also provide “continuity” in the overall insulation pie and are not afraid of temperature changes. And besides this, they can quite cope with the role of a durable plaster layer covering the installed insulation boards and becoming an excellent basis for subsequent finishing. The well-known “wet facade” technology for finishing external walls is based on this quality of such adhesive compositions.

Most well-known manufacturers of high-quality dry construction mixtures have included adhesives for thermal insulation work in their product range. Let's get acquainted with some “representatives” of this class of materials.

The table does not list all currently available building mixtures. In stores you can find high-quality adhesive compositions under the brands “Vetonit”, “Ivsil”, “Bergauf”, “Carapol”, “Henkel” with a universally recognizable product design under the “Moment” brand. All of these are also excellent solutions for installing polystyrene foam insulation panels. And the installation technology, it must be said, does not show a significant difference.

If you intend to finish a surface insulated with penoplex directly on the glued slabs (and not, say, with plasterboard or other sheet or panel materials), then, as already mentioned, the glue will do an excellent job of creating a durable plaster layer. This technology can be used for both external and internal work - there is no too significant difference, except in the finishing.

Briefly about the technology of insulation and wall finishing “wet facade”

The facade insulation scheme with finishing (“wet facade”) is shown in the diagram below:

Approximate final structure of the insulation and finishing “pie” when using the “wet facade” technology

Our article today does not involve a detailed consideration of the technology, but it still makes sense to briefly list the stages of its implementation.

So, let’s imagine that a wall made of masonry materials or concrete is subject to thermal insulation and finishing (item 1).

• First of all, the surface is brought into a “decent” condition; if necessary, it is repaired. Unstable areas are eliminated, cracks, potholes, sinkholes, etc. are sealed. It is always assumed that thermal insulation boards must fit tightly to the surface over their entire area, and there should be no voids left underneath.
• The prepared wall must be primed (item 2). For most building wall materials, water-soluble deep penetration primers are suitable for this purpose. For concrete surfaces, the optimal solution would be to use “concrete contact” type compounds.
• The next large-scale operation is, in fact, the installation of penoplex or polystyrene foam insulation boards (item 4) with mineral glue prepared in accordance with the attached instructions (item 3). The illustration presented shows the best option - continuous application of the adhesive composition with distribution using a comb spatula. But simplified options are also allowed, with glue applied in a continuous strip along the border of the slab, and at several points in slides along the rest of the area.

One of the recommended options for applying mineral glue to the surface of the insulation board.
This approach ensures a contact area of ​​at least 70%. When applying glue and during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the composition does not get between the ends of the slabs or into the locking parts, otherwise a tight mutual fit of the penoplex will not be achieved.

The installation rules are quite strict: both for laying rows and for correct cutting of slabs in the areas of window and door openings, external and internal corners. This is described in more detail in the corresponding instruction article.

• After the glue has hardened (and not before!), the foam boards are mechanically fastened with disc-shaped dowels - “fungi” (item 5). Here, too, you should adhere to certain recommended schemes.
• After this, the formation of the external plaster cladding begins, using the same glue. First of all, a base layer (item 6) with a thickness of about 2 mm is applied, spread with a comb spatula, and a reinforcing fiberglass alkali-resistant mesh (item 7) is “sinked” into it as a continuous sheet. Solid fabric means that adjacent mesh strips must overlap by a width of at least 100 mm. In areas of maximum stress (for example, at the corners of window and door openings), reinforcement is added.
• After the base mesh-reinforced layer has set, it is lightly grouted, and then a leveling layer is applied (item 8). Its thickness is usually 2 mm if further finishing is planned with decorative facade plaster, and somewhat thicker, 3 mm, if the plans are to limit the wall to painting.
• In any case, after carefully leveling and grouting this leveling layer of plaster, and its complete drying, the entire wall is primed (usually twice) with a deep penetration compound (item 9) or even a special primer recommended for a specific type of finishing (item 10 ) - plaster or facade paint.

Our specialists have created an online calculator that allows you to roughly calculate the required amount of materials for a similar approach to insulation and wall finishing. True, without finishing paint or plaster, since a lot here depends on the specific choice of finishing materials.

The calculation can be carried out both according to the previously calculated area of ​​insulation and finishing, and according to the geometric dimensions of the wall, minus the area of ​​window and door openings.

Calculator for calculating the amount of materials for wall insulation using “wet facade” technology

Go to calculations

The “wet facade” technology is replete with important nuances. And if you decide to use it, you need to “be theoretically savvy” more seriously.

What is a “wet facade”, and how to master this technology yourself?

This approach to insulating external walls is also widely popular. At least for the reasons that it leaves home owners wide scope in choosing the finishing touches. to the numerous subtleties of the “wet facade” insulation technology .

Polyurethane-based adhesives

Mineral adhesives are affordable and quite reliable for long-term use of insulated building structures. But still, the scope of their application has considerable limitations. Thus, they do not show proper adhesion to wood and wood-based composite materials, polymers, and metal. Despite the reliability, mechanical fastening of insulation boards must also be provided, which is also not always possible. And in terms of ease of use, let’s be honest, dry mixes are still not among the leaders - preparation is required with scrupulous adherence to the dosage of water, and the prepared composition has a limited “potlife” time, as it begins to gradually harden. In addition, working with such compositions will always be somewhat “dirty” - as with any other cement-based mortars,

There is a way out - this is the use of ready-to-use polyurethane compounds. Particularly convenient are those that are packaged in tubes similar to polyurethane foam, and can be used using a special gun. And this means both accuracy and high speed of application. Add to this the fairly fast hardening of such glue - and the choice becomes obvious.

Adhesive in the form of foam, applied using a special gun, significantly speeds up installation work. An excellent solution, especially for interior work, when you want to avoid “dirty” operations.

Important - do not confuse mounting adhesives for insulating boards with mounting foam, which is widely available in stores. These are still completely different materials, although they are very similar in packaging and consistency at the initial stage of application.

As a rule, for gluing a penoplex slab, a “border” application of the composition and several stripes (zigzags) over the remaining area is sufficient. With economical use, a standard 750 ml tube can be enough for 10 or more “squares” of the insulated surface.

Option for applying foam adhesive to a foam board

Unlike mineral compositions, such foam adhesives allow you to glue the ends and locks of mounted slabs. And after installation, you can fill the remaining gaps. As a result, an almost seamless surface is created, leaving no chance for “cold bridges”.

With this composition you can glue penoplex locks, seal gaps after installation, resulting in a continuous insulating layer without gaps.

Let's take a look at several suggested brands of such glue:

You can also find other brands of similar adhesive compositions, for example, “Bosman”, “Kudo”, “Masterflex Easyfix”, “Makroflex” and others. They are, in principle, all similar in composition, application technology, and compatibility with base materials. There may be not very significant differences in some characteristics, and, of course, in cost. In any case, it would be a good idea to read reviews before purchasing. Some of the formulations listed (we won’t say which ones specifically, so as not to be considered anti-advertising) are nevertheless criticized by users for not fully complying with the parameters declared by the manufacturer.

Video: Using TechnoNIKOL foam adhesive for installing thermal insulation from polystyrene foam

Purpose of penoplex

“Penoplex” is a trademark, the boards themselves are extruded polystyrene foam, therefore in many instructions and other documents penoplex is labeled as EPS.

Before examining the types of glue and material installation techniques, let's briefly find out what extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is, in our case Penoplex.

The material was born in the 30s of the last century in America. At that time, the US military-industrial complex announced a competition to create a lightweight, non-absorbent material for life jackets at sea.

The already known and widely used expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) was taken as a basis, but these slabs easily broke and crumbled into small balls. Then the developers used the extrusion method, which made it possible to make the slab monolithic and increase the strength characteristics by an order of magnitude.

Now there are universal models of insulation from Penoplex that can be mounted on different surfaces

If you do not take into account the dimensions, then visually all Penoplex slabs are the same, however, this insulation is divided into several specialized areas. The topic of the characteristics of each direction is quite extensive and deserves a separate publication, so now we will only outline the priorities.

• To insulate the foundation and basement sector, material labeled “Foundation” is produced. It is able to withstand the load when compacting the earth without deformation, plus it resists frost heaving processes well;
• Wall foam is considered the most popular. It is not designed for strong compression, but the price of this material is lower;
• Penoplayex marked “Roofing” is intended for laying into a roofing pie. The thermal insulation characteristics here are the same as those of the wall version, but the roofing version does not deform at relatively high temperatures, which is important when installing metal tiles and flat roofs in high-rise buildings;
• There is also a material marked “45”, it is intended for highly loaded surfaces. Simply put, it can be safely laid under a reinforced concrete screed when building a garage or house on a slab foundation.

Of all the types of insulation from the Penoplex brand, brand No. 45 is considered the most durable and reliable; these slabs can even be laid under roads and airfield pavements, but the price of the material is high

All boards from Penoplex are absolutely impervious to moisture and can be safely classified as a waterproofing coating. But on the other hand, this is the weak point of this insulation, so when arranging the roof or interior work, it is necessary to take care of additional ventilation, otherwise condensation will accumulate.

When choosing insulation, you need to start not from the price, but from the performance characteristics of a particular Penoplex model.