We insulate a brick bathhouse. Why is it more important from the inside, how to insulate brick walls


There are all sorts of bathhouses in the Russian expanse: log, which are often compared to buildings made of timber, frame, cinder block, foam concrete... Among them there are also those built of brick. But, to be honest, brick is far from the best material for bathhouse construction . However, the circumstances are different: some choose it of their own free will, putting solidity, reliability and fire resistance at the forefront, others already have a brick extension in their yard, but don’t have a bathhouse yet, so they find a use for what they have.

One way or another, such baths exist, which means you need to know how to achieve maximum comfort from them .

Is it necessary to insulate?

If with other materials it is appropriate to argue about whether insulation is necessary or not in their case, then there is no reason to doubt : insulation of a brick bathhouse is mandatory. Brick has high thermal conductivity, so without insulation it will take a very long time to heat a bathhouse, but, on the contrary, it will cool down very quickly.

Just imagine how much time and firewood it takes to heat walls that have frozen at sub-zero temperatures. By the way, insulation is always compared to a brick wall, saying that where meters of masonry are needed, you can get by with a few centimeters of insulation.

However, the next question requires more detailed consideration.

Insulation of a brick bath: inside or outside?

In the event that you have to choose between which side it would be better to sheathe the bathhouse with insulation, it is worth looking at what will happen in both cases.
It is clear that when sheathing the outside, the entire brick of the building ends up inside a warm “fur coat,” which means that it will have to be warmed again, because in a room that is heated only from time to time, the temperature of the walls drops even with insulation. And again, the lion's share of the heat will go to waste , as if you had not insulated your bathhouse at all.

If you carry out insulation from the inside (including with your own hands), then all the heat will go to heating the air in the room, which, in fact, is what we need .

BUT! If it is possible to sheathe the bathhouse on both sides, then there are no obstacles to this, but this will be a matter of the owner’s taste, because good installation of internal insulation can single-handedly solve all problems.

Now that we understand the mechanism of how insulation works and have decided on the choice of side, it’s worth talking about how brick differs from other materials.

Design Issues

The key element of the steam room is the heater (firebox). When building a steam room, it is recommended to take into account the dimensions of the stove, as well as the number of visitors to visit the steam room at the same time.

What should a steam room in a bathhouse be like, designed for a specific number of visitors? So that vacationers do not experience discomfort and at the same time there is no unused space in the room, which should be heated more, the steam room must have certain dimensions.

Room dimensions

The optimal dimensions of the steam room are determined by generally accepted standards and are 2x2.5 meters with a ceiling height of up to 2.25 cm. It is generally accepted that a steam room of this size is designed for a company of 3-4 people.

Also, when designing a steam room, you should pay attention to the following issues:

  1. The need to install windows;
  2. Installation procedure for entrance doors;
  3. Arrangement of a ventilation system;
  4. Number and location of benches.

Windows and doors

The standard project does not provide for windows, but if desired, they can be installed. In the steam room, it is recommended to install square blind windows, the size of which does not exceed 50x50 cm. The best option is to install a modern double-glazed window, which provides better heat and sound insulation of the room.

To reduce heat losses when constantly visiting the steam room, when installing a small door leaf, it is recommended to provide a high entrance threshold (up to 30 cm) and a low crossbar on top.

The door to the steam room should be simple and easy to use, open/close well, and have no locks or locks. The best material for making door leaves is wood or glass.

Exhaust ventilation

To reduce high humidity, as well as prevent the development of fungus and mold, the steam room in the bathhouse must have a reliable exhaust ventilation system. Ventilation is installed during the construction phase of the bathhouse.

The ventilation system is provided for the timely removal of excess moisture and the supply of clean air from outside. Experts recommend installing a modern supply and exhaust ventilation system with built-in air ducts.

In this case, the supply channel should be located near the firebox in the lower part of the room. The hood is installed on the opposite wall at the top, almost under the ceiling. The diameter of the exhaust duct should be twice the diameter of the supply duct. Air flow is regulated by built-in valves.

To develop a project for a future bathhouse, you can contact an architectural bureau or private designers.

A ready-made steam room with your own hands and step-by-step instructions for its construction are aimed at novice craftsmen.

Insulation of brick bath walls: features

If we compare brick with other materials from which walls are built, for example, wood, frame or foam concrete, then the main difference will be that these walls are colder than others. In fact, brick can be considered an artificial stone, and this speaks of both advantages and disadvantages:

  • strength;
  • heavy weight (full-bodied);
  • low moisture permeability (for a burned person);
  • increased thermal conductivity;
  • frost resistance;
  • low shrinkage;
  • fire resistance.

Wood shrinks much more and is flammable. But you can do without additional insulation of wooden walls.

Foam concrete is cheaper than brick, but it must be protected from moisture. But the presence of numerous air bubbles in it, which has low thermal conductivity, makes this material warmer, which means it requires less time to heat the room and retains heat longer. In low-rise construction, foam concrete has more advantages than disadvantages.

Frame buildings are much less durable than brick ones, but they need insulation no less than the latter.

The creation of bricks with internal voids has reduced the thermal conductivity of the material, but their use is limited to the thermal insulation layer, and the base of the load-bearing walls remains solid brick. But even laying in several rows will not solve all the problems with bath insulation, so it is more profitable to insulate a brick bath by covering the walls of the building with insulation .

LOGICPIR Bath from TECHNONICOL: product characteristics

LOGICPIR Bathhouse from TECHNONICOL is an insulation material made from rigid polyisocyanurate foam with a closed cell structure. The top and bottom are covered with aluminum foil, which provides it with increased sound and heat insulating properties. The insulation is produced in Russia.

Main characteristics in the table.

Thanks to the special shape of the edge, LOGICPIR Bath slabs from TECHNONICOL fit tightly together, which minimizes the likelihood of gaps. For greater sealing, it is recommended to glue them along the seams with metallized tape.

Foil-coated PIR boards have high insulating properties, so they can be installed in both dry and wet areas. LOGICPIR Bath from TECHNONICOL is a material that is designed for installation in a steam room, dressing room and other rooms of bath complexes.

The material is durable. Its service life is more than 50 years. During this time, it does not lose its properties and does not require replacement or additional processing by any means.

A person with minimal knowledge in the field of construction can cope with the installation of LOGICPIR Bathhouse from TECHNONICOL. But before starting work, you need to study the technology, prepare tools and materials.

Insulation of a brick bath: methods

Today, owners of a brick bathhouse can choose between several methods of internal wall insulation with final finishing either with tiles or lining. Let's start with the method where plaster is used:

  1. The first layer on top of the brick wall is to waterproof it, for example, using bitumen mastic. For this purpose, talc, asbestos and lime are added to the mastic. The resulting mass is applied directly to the walls.
  2. Then the surface is plastered, and expanded clay and finely chopped slag are mixed into the plaster solution.
  3. A lathing is placed on the layer of plaster, between the bars of which fiberglass is laid - a non-flammable heat insulator, similar to asbestos, but environmentally friendly.
  4. A layer of insulation is placed on the fiberglass - for example, basalt or kaolin wool.
  5. Then everything is covered with a vapor barrier, for example, foil or foil fabric.
  6. All that remains is the finishing layer - the same lining, for example. It is mounted on a sheathing with a ventilation gap.

Tile option:

  1. waterproofing;
  2. sheathing;
  3. insulation between the sheathing posts;
  4. vapor barrier;
  5. reinforcing mesh;
  6. plaster;
  7. tile.

Method without plaster:

  1. The first layer on top of the inner surface of the wall is waterproofing - either film or the one described above.
  2. The sheathing is made of timber with a section of 5x5. The step between the beams is equal to the width of the seal minus 1 cm, so that it lies tightly in the spacer.
  3. Fiberglass is attached to the sheathing without tension.
  4. Insulation, for example, basalt wool (not containing phenolic impregnation) is laid in the remaining spaces between the posts in two layers, shifted by half the width in the second layer, so that cold bridges do not appear. The total insulation layer is 10 cm.
  5. A reflective vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation, for example, simple foil for the steam room and Penofol for other rooms. The vapor barrier is overlapped and sealed with aluminum tape.
  6. If the finishing is done with clapboard, then there must be a ventilation gap between the foil and it. To do this, a sheathing is made of bars of the required cross-section, on top of which the lining is attached.

The essence of internal insulation is shown using the example of a foam block wall; the principles are the same.

IMPORTANT! Metal fasteners will last longer if you use galvanized nails, screws, etc.

Another way is to build an additional wall from timber:

  1. The first layer on top of the brick is sheathing.
  2. Waterproofing is attached on top of it.
  3. A wall is erected from 10x10 cm timber, self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
  4. The sheathing is again placed on top of the timber.
  5. It is covered with fiberglass fabric with a slight sagging.
  6. Insulation is placed in the gaps.
  7. It is covered with a vapor barrier, for example, foil.
  8. A ventilation gap is made using a sheathing onto which the lining is nailed.

Useful video

Here is a new material that sounds tempting, but has not yet been tested by many years of use. There is some risk.

Choice of insulation

Let's tell you a little about the most common insulation materials in relation to our case:

mineral woola good material for external insulation, but should not be used inside, because when heated it releases harmful organic substances.
basalt woolin a bathhouse for internal insulation you should only use it, because it does not have phenolic impregnation.
cotton wool rockwoolAmong the products of this company there is stone wool, which is specially designed for baths and saunas; its use is safe.
ecowoolexcellent insulation for a bath - does not support combustion, low thermal conductivity, environmentally friendly. It is placed dry on horizontal surfaces and wet on vertical surfaces.
StyrofoamIt is flammable and can release harmful volatile substances when heated; it is better not to use it in a steam room .
expanded polystyreneIt should be used as one of the layers of floor and ceiling insulation.
foam glassa material that borrows the best features from mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Does not require a vapor barrier, lightweight, porous, does not emit anything, fireproof.
foil and foil materialsThere is a reason to use these materials in a brick bath, but ultimately everything is decided by the tastes of the owner. With foil and its derivatives, the temperature becomes higher and the steam becomes harsher.

Additional requirements

Lathing. A profile frame is the most durable option for a brick or stone bath. The most commonly used profile is a ceiling type CD; the ceiling perimeter is edged with a UD type guide profile; direct hangers are attached in increments of 0.6-0.8 meters; steps between profiles are made 1-2 centimeters less than the width of the insulating material slabs.

As for wooden baths: insulating the steam room of a log bath allows you to save a little. Since the cost per linear meter of timber is an order of magnitude lower than that of profiles; at the same time, the durability of such insulation remains at the same level and is limited solely by the durability of the materials of the walls themselves.

Foil waterproofing of the bath. To achieve this task, you need not only water- and vapor-proof, but also heat-resistant material. The good news is that the modern market is replete with such materials and deciding how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse will not be difficult: an example of such a material is foil-type foamed propylene Penotherm NPP LF, designed for temperature loads of up to 150 degrees Celsius. This material is not only an excellent protection for walls and ceilings from dampness. It is also an excellent reflector of so-called radiant heat and, being a foam material, further reduces heat loss. As the manufacturers assure, Penotherm 3 millimeters thick is quite capable of providing thermal insulation at the same level as timber 150 millimeters thick.

Clean finish. Any thermal insulation for saunas and baths should always be hidden with a layer of finishing material. Today, the role of such material is traditionally played by wooden lining made of aspen or linden.

These types of wood, even in very, very hot rooms, do not burn. They are also resistant to rotting and practically not subject to corrosion, which makes it possible to use such lining in bathhouses and even sheathe steam rooms with it.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath

The main difference between the steam room and all other rooms in the bathhouse is that it is here that the temperature reaches its maximum.
In this regard, great restrictions are imposed on materials that, when heated, begin to deform or release substances harmful to humans. For example, if you decide to use mineral wool as insulation, then you need to look for basalt, because phenolic impregnations . You should not use flammable materials, reducing the risk of fire.

The second specific property of the steam room is high air humidity due to steam. Therefore, the insulation layer must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier and complete sealing must be achieved using tape. It is also necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finish.

In addition, it is in the steam room that the task is to quickly heat up and maintain the set temperature for a long time. Increasing the thickness of the insulation and using foil as a vapor barrier can help with this . Both of these transform the steam room into a real “thermos”, that is, the heat does not find a way out and remains in the steam room. But the downside is the severity of a person’s stay in such a steam room, which can be leveled out by proper ventilation. However, the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath depends on the personal preferences of the owner.

Advice from the experts

There are no high temperatures in a brick washing bath, but the materials are affected by moisture. Therefore, the walls can be finished with tiles. The surface is first leveled with plaster. The layer is applied with a thickness of 15 mm. Once the ceramics have been laid, the solution is removed with a rag if it gets on the surface of the cladding.

The foundation, floor, walls, windows - all these are parts of a single whole - the baths. Therefore, for its finishing it is better to use materials that combine with each other. For cladding walls, for example, you can use clinker tiles for interior work, and for arranging the foundation, clinker for difficult operating conditions.

Floor insulation

The solidity of the brick bathhouse suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days to take a steam bath in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

  • concrete;
  • dry wooden;
  • pouring onto a concrete screed.

They all need insulation, just a little differently.

A dry wooden floor consists of a rough and a finished floor, between which there is a gap equal to the height of the floor beam. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay require a water barrier before laying the finished floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinin foam. As an option, you can also fill the space under the subfloor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

A concrete floor on the ground or a concrete screed under a pouring floor is insulated in the same way:

  1. Half a meter of soil is removed.
  2. The future water drainage is laid - a pit/ladder and pipes to the outside.
  3. 15 cm of gravel is poured and compacted.
  4. Then 35 cm of sand and compacted.
  5. This “pillow” is hermetically sealed with roofing felt.
  6. A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
  7. It can be closed with a water barrier if the insulation gets wet.
  8. Reinforcing mesh is laid.
  9. A concrete screed is poured with the required slope towards the drain.

Find out more : How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse? It depends on what kind of floors: on screw piles or poured, with a layer of insulation, dry or poured

Disc dowels: long lasting strength

The use of disc-shaped dowels is justified in the case of a large insulation area or uneven façade surfaces. For fastening to dowels you need: a hammer drill (impact drill), a drill of the appropriate diameter and length, and a hammer. Holes are drilled with a recess of 50-60 mm into the base. The holes are filled with polyurethane foam. Then the dowel is driven in with a hammer so that the dowel fungi do not protrude above the surface of the slab. It is best to use dowels in combination with metal screws to increase the reliability of the connection. Installing 5 dowels per slab is sufficient. Adjacent sheets are fastened with one dowel. It must be installed in the seam between the slabs.

Ceiling insulation

Warm air and steam always collect near the ceiling.
Therefore, the owner of a bathhouse should definitely think about insulating it so that the heat is not wasted. This applies to any type of ceiling - hemmed, floor or panel, regardless of what is on top: a cold attic or a warm attic.

The following requirements apply to the ceiling insulation used:

  • incombustible;
  • moisture resistant;
  • does not emit harmful substances when heated;
  • with low thermal conductivity.

Expanded clay is good in this regard - it is poured onto a waterproofed rough ceiling between the floor beams on the attic side. And then they are again isolated from moisture. Instead of expanded clay, you can add a layer of ecowool.

also a good idea to use basalt wool without phenolic impregnation . But it easily absorbs water, so it needs high-quality insulation from water and steam. The wool can be laid either on top of the flooring boards or hemmed underneath.

Polystyrene foam would be good for the ceiling, but it is flammable and, if manufactured poorly, releases harmful substances when heated.

When insulating the ceiling, clay or mixtures with clay are often used; find out if it is suitable here.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the materials from the sections Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse and Insulating the roof.

IMPORTANT! Above the steam room, the ceiling needs a double layer of vapor barrier.

***

A brick bathhouse can become very comfortable, but it will require a large investment of labor and money from the owner. Therefore, it is worth going to build such a bathhouse only if it seems completely acceptable.

Which material is better

In the old days, insulation of baths was carried out exclusively with natural materials. We are talking about felt, hemp, flax, red moss, etc. The undoubted advantage of these insulation materials is their complete harmlessness to people. Even under conditions of a significant increase in temperature (which often happens in a steam room), they do not emit any harmful substances or toxins.

Natural materials also have significant disadvantages:

  1. The complexity of the installation process. Despite the simplicity of the procedure for caulking a bathhouse using moss or tow, it takes a lot of time and effort. As a result, we have to increase payments to craftsmen.
  2. Weak biological resistance. Natural materials are susceptible to rotting and fungus formation: in conditions of constantly high humidity, this only gets worse. Insects and rodents often live in the thickness of the insulation, so regular inspection and refilling of the thermal insulation layer will be required.

Modern artificial insulation materials have more attractive performance characteristics.


Modern insulation materials Source in.pinterest.com

Although their degree of environmental friendliness is somewhat lower, their service life is an order of magnitude longer. This is explained by their absolute inertness with respect to constant moisture and high temperatures. If we add here low weight, ease of installation and low cost, it becomes clear why synthetic materials have now practically replaced natural analogues. The most commonly used materials are polystyrene foam, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. Before insulating a bathhouse from the inside, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each of these materials.

Expanded polystyrene

It has excellent thermal insulation characteristics with low weight and low cost. Expanded polystyrene foam resists moisture well, but in high temperature conditions there is a real risk of deformation and even fire of the slabs. If we add here the release of toxic substances when heated, it becomes clear why they try not to use this material in baths (except for the external design of the dressing room).


Expanded polystyrene is the closest relative of polystyrene foam, but with improved characteristics Source festima.ru

Basalt fiber

An excellent option for insulating a bath. The raw material for the production of basalt fibers is molten rocks.

This explains the following characteristics of the material:

  • It doesn't burn at all.
  • Tolerates mechanical stress and high humidity well.
  • Has the ability to absorb noise.
  • Provides excellent thermal insulation.
  • Can be used for decades without loss of performance characteristics.

Installing basalt insulation is very simple, because... it can be cut into pieces of the desired size. The only drawback of this material is its high cost.


Basalt fiber compresses well, and after laying it occupies all the required volume Source house-stroy.ru

See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in insulating country houses.

Mineral wool

It is produced under approximately the same conditions as basalt fiber. The difference between them concerns the raw materials used: in this case, it is not rock, but metallurgical waste. In this way, it is possible to significantly reduce the cost of the finished material.

In addition to being cheap, mineral wool has other advantages:

  • Low level of thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, the heated room retains its heat for a long time.
  • Moisture resistance. The material can be used at consistently high humidity.
  • High sound insulation performance.

The disadvantages of mineral wool include its low resistance to mechanical stress. This introduces certain difficulties into the installation procedure.


Mineral wool is offered in slabs or rolls Source bliz-ar.ru

Glass wool

The material consists of the finest threads of inorganic glass intertwined. As a result, numerous air layers and pockets are formed inside the glass wool, preventing heat from escaping through the thickness of the insulation. You should also highlight the good vapor permeability and low cost of the material. It is available for sale in rolls of different thicknesses and widths, which makes it easier to select the optimal level of insulation. In addition to rolls, glass wool is sold in the form of mats and slabs.


Work with glass wool is carried out in protective clothing Source lestnitsygid.ru

PIR panels

PIR is a polymer consisting of closed rigid cells that are filled with gas. These cells provide the material with a record low thermal conductivity of only 0.022 W/m°K, thanks to which the bath will heat up faster and cool down more slowly.

PIR panels are covered on both sides with a thin layer of foil. This design feature allows:

  • speed up the heating of the room, because foil additionally reflects heat into the room;
  • do without additional vapor barrier of the bath.

PIR panels are rigid boards that are easy to install yourself.


PIR panels are supplied in the form of slabs, and are available for different types of structures and premises Source logicpir.ru

What to choose

An analysis of the characteristics of materials for thermal insulation leads to the conclusion that the best option for insulating a bathhouse from the inside is basalt fiber and mineral wool. To save money, the choice is mainly made towards mineral wool. Moreover, manufacturers managed to solve the problem of its fragility through the use of foil.

See also: Catalog of bathhouse projects presented at the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition.

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