Heating radiators for a private home - types and classes, selection rules, prices

When the question of which heating radiators is best to choose for a private home appears on the agenda, there are many who nostalgically recall Soviet cast-iron “accordions” - although bulky, they are hot and warm the room well. Indeed, at one time such batteries worked “excellently,” but now they are deteriorating and are considered obsolete. They have already been replaced by new, more efficient, convenient and cost-effective models.

But the main problem is that there are many diametrically opposed opinions regarding new radiators. And in practice it’s the same: you go to neighbors who have installed modern radiators at home - some are warm, while others are cold. At the same time, both places have almost identical heating batteries - that is, which of them is better for a private home does not always depend on the specific model. In order to understand all the existing models, we turned to the specialists of the Miralex store, which offers a very wide range of radiators.

Warmth in the house does not always depend on the quality of the selected radiators Source kp.md

Features of heating networks in a private house

Unlike multi-apartment buildings, an autonomous heating system is installed in a private house, that is, it does not depend on the central boiler room, which means that the pressure in the network and the temperature of the coolant will be completely different. Therefore, when choosing a radiator for a private home, you need to consider the following points:

• In private houses, the pressure on the coolant, and with it on the tanks and radiator pipes, is much less than in multi-storey buildings. Thus, the batteries do not experience overload, so you can choose any, including thin-walled models.

There is a horror story among residents of apartment buildings about pipes bursting due to water hammer due to sudden pressure surges in the water supply. In fact, there can be no water hammer even in apartment buildings, not to mention heating systems in cottages. But in private homes, especially those in which people do not live all the time, another problem may arise - freezing of water in the pipes. It is in this case that the batteries may simply burst if you forget to drain the water from the system before leaving.

Even cast iron batteries cannot always withstand system freezing Source ir-leasing.ru

• In a private house, the length of the pipeline from the heat source (boiler, stove) to the radiator is very short compared to multi-story buildings. Therefore, heat loss is minimal, and the coolant is more heated. Conclusion: in a private house there should be radiators that can withstand high-temperature coolant.
• A little liquid is needed to fill the heating system, so you can add antifreeze or ethyl alcohol to it. This protects pipes and radiators so that they do not freeze if the boiler is turned off for a long time.

Today, there is a large amount of antifreeze for radiators on the market.

One such option is Gibax antifreeze. When choosing, you must pay attention to the fact that antifreezes based on ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are prohibited from being used in systems that contain fittings, fittings, and pipes galvanized inside. At temperatures above 70 degrees, an intense chemical reaction occurs, which results in peeling of the galvanized layer, which leads to subsequent clogging of fittings, heating devices, etc. The second factor is the destruction of useful additives that protect the heating system from corrosion, as a result, the heating system begins to corrode intensively. For systems with galvanized products, glycerin-based antifreeze is used.

Adding antifreeze to the heating system Source homediz.info

• When choosing heating radiators, which ones are best for a private home should be determined based on the size of the heated area. In cottages there is a lot of space, and therefore energy consumption for heating is also large. It is advisable to install batteries that will warm up your home at a minimum cost.

Guided by these simple rules, you can buy the optimally suitable model.

Principles for calculating battery power

To choose heating radiators for a country or private house, you need to perform calculations based on the fact that to heat one square meter. m of living space requires approximately 95–125 kW. To warm up a room with average parameters (one window, one door, ceiling height up to 3 meters), it is necessary to heat the coolant to 70 °C.

If actual parameters differ from those indicated, adjustments must be made. For example, with a ceiling height of more than 3 meters, it is necessary to increase the calculated power of the batteries as many times as the actual height exceeds the conditional one. For low ceilings, recalculation is carried out in the opposite direction.

A decrease in coolant temperature for every 10 °C relative to the specified average level forces a corresponding increase in the design power of heating devices by 15–20%. If the room is corner and has two windows, the average calculated power of the batteries is increased by 1.5 times.

The heat transfer of radiators largely depends on their connection diagram. The average calculation is based on the fact that the heated coolant is supplied to the upper side inlet, and the return is connected to the lower inlet diagonally. Other connection options are less efficient and reduce the heat dissipation of batteries by 5–10%.

Note! The number of sections for radiator models of this type should not exceed 10 pieces - further expansion will not help increase power, since the coolant will not be able to fully warm up such a battery.

Comparison of thermal power of different types of batteries

Calculating radiator parameters

Particular care should be taken when choosing panel and tubular batteries. Manufacturers include in their product line models of the same power, but with different geometric parameters. When choosing, take into account the features of the installation location - the height from the floor to the window sill, the length of the wall in an elongated room, etc.

Homeowners choosing heating devices and wanting to purchase the best options at a reasonable price opt for steel or aluminum models. The cost of the most reliable, imported bimetallic radiator is prohibitively high, and cast iron batteries have many serious disadvantages. According to statistics, those who are thinking about which radiators to choose for a private home or country house choose aluminum sectional or steel panel models based on the ratio of price and practicality.

Video with tips for choosing heating radiators:

Classes of heating radiators and their types and features

The principle of operation of a radiator is to transfer heat to the surrounding space from the coolant fluid circulating in this heating device.

The autonomous heating system (AHS) consists of:

• boiler;
• pipelines;
• thermal elements.

Autonomous heating system Source gidroguru.com
The table shows the main types of heating devices:

In addition, heating devices are divided into the following classes; let’s consider a unique rating of heating radiators from this side:

Sectional

They consist of heating sections that are connected to each other. The more sections, the more heat they will transfer to the surrounding space. To prevent the room from overheating, special thermostats are installed on the radiators to regulate the temperature.

Thermostatic tap for temperature control Source drive2.ru

Standard cast iron radiators are also sectional: heat from them is transferred in the form of infrared radiation, evenly distributed throughout the room - top, bottom and middle. Such batteries have large dimensions and thick walls, which accumulate enough heat so that it is emitted in the infrared spectrum. It is this method of heating that is considered optimal for human health, although it must be borne in mind that part of the heating also occurs through convection.

Thanks to the thick walls, such batteries have high thermal inertia - therefore, after turning off the AOS, the radiators remain hot for a long time. Cast iron is not very susceptible to corrosion and is not afraid of harmful impurities in the coolant - the service life of such devices reaches 50 years. One of the disadvantages is the heavy weight.

Aluminum radiators have good heat transfer (1/2 radiation + 1/2 convection) and quickly warm up the room. Compared to cast iron, they are more lightweight, and in general, the ability to transfer heat into the room is several times higher than that of cast iron and steel.

Sectional radiator Source isu.org.ua

An additional advantage of modern models is the ability to regulate the temperature using a valve with a thermal head. The metal surface is coated with a protective coating, which increases its service life. The cost of aluminum radiators is low, and therefore the prices are more affordable.

Aluminum radiators cannot withstand high overloads, so they are not used in central heating systems (CHS). They break due to pressure surges, the presence of rust or sand particles in the coolant. Chemical additives are not allowed in liquids.

Bimetallic heating radiators consist of external aluminum plates and steel pipes located inside the sections. They are valued for their reliability and durability, but are not cheap. Equally well suited for centralized and autonomous heating systems.

which heating batteries are best for a private home Source nehomesdeaf.org

Radiators are also produced that have only steel-reinforced vertical pipes. These are no longer completely bimetallic devices; they are less corrosion resistant. Among their advantages, it is worth noting their high thermal conductivity, which is higher than that of real bimetallic radiators.

See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in home insulation

Tubular

Steel tubular heating devices give off heat well, are economical in terms of energy consumption, and heat up quickly. Their disadvantage is that they are sensitive to oxidative processes. If the coolant fluid does not fill the steel radiator reservoirs, it will begin to corrode. Another weakness of a steel radiator is its hypersensitivity to water quality. Even if the water is considered good by usual standards and can be drunk, it is recommended to install filters to minimize the formation of scale.

A steel tubular radiator can be placed in a narrow niche Source bouw.ru

The sizes of steel tubular radiators are from 30 cm to 3 m. The number of rows of tubes is 1–9. They are considered very reliable - the permissible operating pressure for devices from a number of Russian manufacturers reaches 15 atm. Radiator reservoirs are designed to hold a large volume of liquid, so they quickly reach the required temperature levels when it is necessary to increase or decrease power. The method of heat transfer is radiation and convection.

Steel radiators are also used as heated towel rails, which, in addition to drying clothes, provide additional heating in bathrooms

Steel tubular radiator-bench Source krovati-i-divany.ru

Floor radiators-benches with support legs are steel tubular heating devices with a seat in the form of a wooden board on top. They are connected to the heating system in the same way as conventional radiators. They can also serve as the main heating device in rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, hallway.

Panel

These steel radiators are a rectangular panel that acts as a heating device. The panel consists of 2 ribbed sheets welded to each other; plates with a U-shaped relief are placed inside.

Steel panel radiator Source 999.md

Pros and cons of bimetal

As you can easily guess from the name, heating devices are made of 2 metals - silumin and steel. Externally, the batteries are indistinguishable from aluminum sections, but inside the collectors and vertical channels there are iron tubes welded together. The steel frame is designed to solve 2 problems:

• protection of the silumin part from the chemical effects of the coolant in old centralized systems;
• increasing the reliability of the radiator by increasing the operating pressure threshold to 20...30 Atm.

For reference. There are bimetallic models with double vertical channels made to improve water flow and heat transfer. An example is the Rifar SUPReMO line of non-separable batteries, shown in the photo below.

In terms of other technical characteristics, bimetal differs little from aluminum - the power of 1 section, weight and capacity are almost the same. The operational advantages of radiators also remain, but a couple of disadvantages appear:

• the price of batteries is 30-50% higher, for example, the original bimetallic section from Global Style Plus with an axial spacing of 500 mm costs about 15 USD. e. (970 rub.);
• due to different coefficients of thermal expansion of silumin and steel, the pipe core can burst at the welded joints, making repairs and sealing the leak is unrealistic.

In a monolithic structure, the collectors of adjacent sections are connected by welding. Feature of Rifar products - 2 vertical channels

Important addition. Sometimes on sale there are defective bimetallic radiators with steel tubes embedded only inside the collectors. The vertical channel of the section remains unprotected.

Rules for the location of batteries in the house

In order for the system to work properly, installation rules must be strictly followed. Although the installation technology is not complicated, it has its own nuances, so the work must be carried out by specialists.

Important! If radiators are installed incorrectly, they are not covered by the warranty.

In order to avoid heat loss and uneven heating of the room, when installing devices it is necessary to observe indentations and choose the correct location:

• The most suitable option for the battery is considered to be a place under the window, i.e. where the heat loss is the most significant. The radiator width must be at least 70% of the window width. Mounted clearly in the middle.

Correct placement of the battery Source koffkindom.ru

• Leave at least 10 cm from the battery to the windowsill, as well as to the floor. The optimal distance between the floor and the radiator is 12 cm. It is not recommended to leave more than 15 cm.
• The battery is fixed at a distance of 5 cm from the wall.
• You can stick heat-reflecting material behind the radiator - then some of the heat will not go into the wall, but will return to the room.
• If the radiator is planned to be placed not under the window sill, but on the wall, then the distance between them should be at least 20 mm.

conclusions

When choosing radiators for a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you should take into account the operating conditions typical for autonomous or centralized heat supply. Cast iron or bimetallic radiators are suitable for an apartment; aluminum or cast iron are suitable for a private house.

For the rest, you need to be guided by specific conditions: interior requirements, financial capabilities, equipment cost, manufacturer reliability, etc.

We recommend checking the calculation of the required number of radiator sections for a specific room by receiving the seller’s recommendations upon purchase.

During installation, it is necessary to maintain all the necessary distances of the radiator from the floor, walls, etc., as well as the horizontal position of its position in different planes.

A thermostat installed on radiators helps you save money - you can turn off unnecessary radiators or set an automatic temperature maintenance mode.

Calculation of the number of sections

It is not necessary to look for the most expensive heating devices to make the room comfortable. The main thing is to correctly calculate the number of sections. If the rooms are standard, then this greatly simplifies the calculations.

Often they resort to calculations based on the volume of space because they are simple, but at the same time give fairly accurate results.

1. 1 m³ requires 41 W of power. If good double-glazed windows are installed and heat loss is minimal, then the indicator drops to 34 W.
2. Room volume (m³) = area (m²) × height (m).
3. Required heating power for the entire room (W) = room volume (m³) × 41 W (or 34 W).
4. In the technical data sheets of devices, manufacturers indicate the heat transfer of one section.
5. The total power (the value calculated in point 3) must be divided by the heat transfer of one section. The resulting number is the number of sections.

For example, the required thermal power is 2890 W, and the heat output of one section is 170 W. Then for this room you need to purchase 17 sections.

In a non-standard room, calculations are made using a more complex formula Source rmnt.mirtesen.ru

If the room is non-standard, the calculations become more complicated. To calculate the total power, the features of double-glazed windows (double or triple), thermal insulation parameters of the walls, the ratio of the sizes of windows and floors, ceiling heights and other parameters are taken into account. Designers calculate all this using specialized software.

Battery installation technology

To summarize, we can say that heating radiators in a wooden house are installed using the following technology:

1. Marking and installation of holders;
2. Installation of components on the radiator;
3. Installation of an air vent (there are automatic and manual devices);
4. Installation of adapters (performed if there is a need to connect pipes of different diameters);
5. Installation of shut-off and control valves;
6. Hanging radiators on brackets;
7. Connecting radiators in accordance with the selected circuit and the characteristics of the materials used;
8. Test run of the system or pressure testing (the latter is an increase in pressure in the system in order to check the circuit for leaks).

Which radiators to choose for a wooden house

Heating a wooden house (we are talking primarily about log houses) indeed has its own characteristics, since the thermal conductivity of wood is low and depends on its species. In addition, it is necessary to ensure maximum fire safety. But in general, the issue of providing heat, as well as safety, rests primarily on the correct installation of the heating system, the choice of boiler and the number of radiators. There are no restrictions on the type of radiators here: steel, cast iron, bimetallic, aluminum - all of them can be used in a wooden frame.

Any type of radiator is suitable for a wooden house Source pinterest.com

Radiator connection diagrams

Before installing a heating battery in the house, you need to choose the optimal connection diagram for heating devices. The heat transfer of the batteries and the efficiency of the heating system as a whole directly depend on the choice of circuit.

There are the following connection diagrams for heating radiators:

• Diagonal. This option is the most effective. When connected diagonally, the coolant enters the radiator through the upper pipe on one side and exits through the lower pipe on the other side. This is precisely the reason for the name of the connection diagram. Due to the diagonal scheme, the most uniform distribution of coolant throughout the internal cavities of the radiator is achieved.
• Lateral. With a lateral connection, both radiator pipes located on the same side are used. The supply is carried out through the upper pipe, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one. This scheme leads to insufficient heating of different sections of the radiator - areas located closer to the pipeline receive most of the heat. However, for small buildings, lateral connection of radiators is quite suitable, especially if the heating system is equipped with a circulation pump.
• Bottom. The bottom connection is usually used if hidden installation of heating pipelines is planned. Supply and return are connected only to the lower radiator pipes. This connection scheme is characterized by the greatest heat loss, but also the best visual qualities.

Knowing how to properly install a heating radiator is closely related to its connection diagram, because the efficiency of the entire heating system depends on it.

Which heating batteries to choose for a private home and cottage

It is not difficult to select batteries for a private home, because the autonomous heating system operates without significant overloads, which a centralized system experiences. Here you can connect any radiators, focusing on the required power, quality, efficiency, and cost of the device.

Many owners of private houses prefer aluminum radiators. They are cheaper than cast iron, more economical to operate and have higher heat transfer rates, and the sensitivity of aluminum devices to water hammer in an autonomous heating system can be neglected.

If you want to choose batteries based on the brand name, then you can take into account the unspoken rating of aluminum heating radiators for a private home. The top positions here belong to the brands Calidor, Global, Rifar, STI, which are well suited for operation in Russian climatic conditions.

Modern radiators will provide a comfortable atmosphere in the room even in the coldest weather Source nehomesdeaf.org

Steel radiators are no less common, which is not surprising, because they are reliable, affordable, able to warm up quickly and have good heat dissipation. Here, in the ranking of steel heating radiators for a private home, the leading places are occupied by Kermi, Purmo, Zehnder, Sunerzha.

Among the worthy brands producing bimetallic radiators are the Russian Rifar and the Italian Global. Those who decide to purchase cast iron heaters should pay attention to Konner (Russia), Guratec (Germany), Retro Style (Russia).

As a result, all radiators are universal, which means posing the question of which heating radiators are best for a private house with a gas boiler is not entirely correct, because when choosing, they are mainly guided by the required power, the features of the room and the possibilities of the budget.

Bimetal heating radiators

Bimetallic batteries are made of two types of metal

The peculiarity of bimetallic battery models is the combination of two metals in the design. The basis of the frame is made up of tubes arranged vertically and horizontal steel collectors connected by an aluminum shell. The design is made by injection molding, the elements are connected by electric arc welding, and therefore is highly durable.

The advantages of bimetallic batteries are based on the high resistance of steel to corrosion and the thermal conductivity of aluminum, as well as their low weight. However, their cost is higher than that of other models, and it is difficult for people with average incomes to buy them.

Note! You can find cheap bimetallic radiators in stores, but in quality they are in any case inferior to similar priced aluminum and steel batteries.

It is not advisable to use bimetallic heating devices in a private home due to cost. In autonomous systems there are no water hammers or high pressure in the network, which reduces the need for a safety margin, and the coolant is of relatively good quality, so resistance to rust is practically useless.

Radiator prices

The cost of heating devices varies significantly depending on the following factors:

• brand and country of origin;
• material and production technology;
• design.

Italian, German, Finnish, and Czech batteries are more expensive than Russian ones, but in terms of their technical and operational characteristics, products from domestic manufacturers are not much inferior and even superior to many foreign analogues.

Buying heating radiators for a private home is quite expensive. But if you make the right calculations and select cost-effective devices, then costs can be significantly reduced.

The average cost of aluminum radiators per section is in the range of 1227–8200 rubles, bimetallic devices – 3000–11900 rubles. The cheapest of them can be purchased at a price of 1100 rubles. The range of prices for steel radiators is also quite wide: from 830 to 60,000 rubles. Steel models costing from 3,500 to 26,000 rubles are popular. Inexpensive cast iron batteries can be purchased for 500–1000 rubles. Cast iron appliances are in demand for RUR 3,000–8,000.

Retro-style batteries can be found from 8,000 rubles.

Cast iron batteries in retro style Source gidroguru.com

If batteries are needed for an entire house, then even inexpensive devices cost a pretty penny. In addition, costs will be added for related products: valves, thermostat heads, brackets and other parts.

Preparing components for installing batteries

To ensure that installing heating radiators in a private home does not cause problems, you need to stock up on a set of materials and tools. You will need elements of shut-off valves (taps, taps, dampers and thermostats), adapters, brackets with angles and bypasses.

It is best to purchase all these parts in accordance with a pre-designed heating system project. It is important to consider the way in which the heating will be installed.

The possibility of hidden pipe laying should not be overlooked - if the walls are sheathed with plasterboard or decorative plastic, then the pipes must be immediately laid in niches, leaving only the edges outside that are necessary for connecting the external elements of the system.

Hidden installation makes it possible to avoid damage to the wall covering. Pipes can be connected either by welding or by threading.

Welding seams are reliable and ideal for difficult situations (for example, in old houses where pipe threading is not possible).

In turn, a threaded connection requires less labor, but parts assembled in this way do not withstand mechanical loads and vibration well. However, modern heating systems are very often made of plastic products, which do not even require welding.

Wall marking

The installation of batteries in a wooden house (as in any other house) begins with marking the walls, according to which heating devices will be installed in the next stages of work.

If a system with natural circulation of coolant is installed in the house, then the pipeline must have a constant slope of at least 6 degrees along the flow of water.

Failure to comply with this rule will certainly lead to the appearance of air jams, and in the worst case, will not allow the system to function. For systems with forced circulation, this rule does not matter.

You need to mark the wall along which the brackets for the radiators will be installed. Radiators cannot be installed close to the wall - the distance between them should be about 5–10 cm.

The radiator must be removed from the floor by at least 10 cm, and from the window sill by 8 cm. The markings are done level with a pencil. When marking, you need to take into account the width of the radiator sections so that the installed holders are strictly between the sections.

It is advisable to install foil material behind the radiators, which will act as a heat reflector. If there is a gap of at least 3 cm between this material and the radiator, it is possible to significantly increase the efficiency of the radiator and reduce heat losses.

When the marking is completed, holes of the required sizes are drilled in accordance with it. The dowels are driven in with a hammer, after which the brackets are secured using self-tapping screws.

To make your work easier, you can purchase special battery holders equipped with threads that allow you to screw them directly into the dowel.

When selecting brackets, you need to take into account the type and characteristics of the radiators being installed so that the elements match each other.

You also need to pay attention to the number of brackets used for one radiator (in most cases, three holders are enough, two of which are located at the top and one at the bottom).

Radiator assembly

Before connecting the radiator to the heating system, it must be assembled. A winder is screwed into the threaded section of the radiator.

Previously, paint-treated tow acted as a winding material, but today there are more modern options - for example, high-temperature sealing paste, or fum tape, which ensures a tight connection of pipes.

The part treated with a sealant is put on the tap nut, after which the entire structure is screwed into the battery plug. Subsequently, it will need to be carefully tightened with a wrench.

Using a similar technology, Mayevsky taps and plugs are installed on all pipes that will not be used for connection.