Antifreeze for heating a house - which is better, types, differences, advantages and disadvantages, rules of use, how to fill the system

Every year, at the end of the heating season, the autonomous water circuits, which diligently supplied the owners with heat, are freed of water or the antifreeze that replaces it. With the onset of the first cool days, the heating system is again filled with the coolant necessary for its operation.

It is worth familiarizing yourself with the procedure for performing this difficult work and the necessary equipment in order to avoid mistakes. In this material we will talk about how to correctly fill the system with water and non-freezing coolant, the rules that should be followed during the work process, as well as how to correctly calculate the amount of coolant.

How to pump coolant

Pumps for filling the circuit with antifreeze can be different. Any water pump that is used in water supply is suitable for this purpose, since antifreeze can be properly poured into the heating system using any pressure blower of sufficient power. This includes manual and electric pumps, which can pump liquid in different ways. Some of them are immersed in the coolant, while others are not.

Submersible pump

Vibrating submersible pumps operate when completely immersed in antifreeze. Such devices include the well-known “Baby”. It should be said that there is no special pump for filling the heating system with antifreeze. All units have a wide range of applications on the farm. So, for example, “Malysh” can not only pump antifreeze into the circuit, but also lift water from the well.

“Baby” – submersible rotary pump

Advantage of submersible pump:

• inexpensive;
• compact;
• economical;
• portable.

With this pump you can do everything - from watering garden beds to supplying water from a well. It has a metal body, which makes the device reliable and durable. Characteristics:

• capable of pumping 430 liters per minute;
• distance from the power source is up to 40 m;
• two types of fluid intake (upper, lower);
• lifts a column of liquid to a height of 40 m;
• consumes no more than 250 W per hour.

Liquid from ten meters creates a pressure of one atmosphere, it turns out that “Kid” is capable of pumping up to four atmospheres. This power is more than enough for an autonomous heating system. As you know, the pressure in it does not exceed two atmospheres; the norm is considered to be a pressure gauge reading of one and a half atmospheres.

Taking into account the high pumping speed, such a pump will pump up an ordinary system containing up to 100 liters of coolant in a few minutes. The principle of operation is that antifreeze enters directly into the pump through holes in the housing and is supplied to the circuit through a hose.

To roll antifreeze into the heating circuit, you will need a barrel into which it will be poured. Then the pump is placed in the barrel, and the hose is connected to the recharge pipe.

Drainage pump

Drainage submersible pump

Drainage pumps also belong to submersible pumps, but only their main purpose differs from the same “Baby”. This type of blower is designed specifically to pump out water from basements or even from plots of land. A special feature of this unit is its ability to pass large particles, the size of which varies up to 35 mm.

It does not have a filter element that would protect the circuit from contamination, so this must be taken into account before pumping the heating system with antifreeze. In addition, you will need to make sure that the pump does not turn off automatically when there is a minimum amount of coolant left in the tank. The fact is that the submersible drainage pump has a special float switch that responds to changes in the liquid level.

The principle of pumping antifreeze into the heating system with a drain pump is the same as that of other submersible

The only thing you should pay attention to is the dimensions of the device. It may not fit into the neck of a small barrel, so the inlet hole should be enlarged

Surface pump

Surface pumps are not immersed in liquid. They are installed separately, antifreeze is supplied through a hose. These are undoubtedly more powerful units, but they also cost more. Such pumps can pump very high pressure into the circuit, which allows them to be used for pressure testing of heating systems and hydraulic tests. Surface pumps are either mechanical or electric.

Rotary Type Electric Surface Pump

According to the principle of action they can be:

• membrane;
• rotary;
• piston

The first two types are electrical devices, and a piston pump is a manual unit with a liquid reservoir. Antifreeze is poured into the reservoir, which is pumped through low and high pressure cylinders. The device is equipped with a pressure gauge. When pumping antifreeze into the system, a lot of effort will be required. You will need to press very hard on the handle. How to pour antifreeze into the heating system video:

To summarize, we note that you can fill the heating system with antifreeze using any pump that you have on the farm. If there is none at all, then the purchase will not be one-time. Such a unit is always useful in a private home. It can be used to water a garden, pump water from an artificial lake, fuel a heating system, and much more. The principle of filling the heating circuit does not depend on the selected supercharger. The main thing is to monitor the pressure gauge readings and bleed the air.

How is the frequency of coolant replacement determined?

Coolant replacement should be carried out in the following situations:

• Planned event - the service life of antifreeze has expired, which is no more than 5-6 years, regardless of its type, manufacturer and other factors;
• There was a violation of operating rules - water was added to the system, dirt got in during maintenance, it was severely overheated or was not used for a long time;
• The old network with natural circulation is being modernized - new equipment and pipes are being installed.

It is also necessary to monitor performance indicators during system operation. The first signs of accumulation of deposits inside heat exchangers and pipes are an arbitrary increase in pressure, a decrease in efficiency, heat transfer with increasing energy consumption, and uneven heating of radiators. It is important to detect even minor deviations in operation in a timely manner, so periodically you need to monitor the readings of the pressure gauge, thermometers, and flow meters. This will avoid emergency equipment replacements.

In our company, experienced professionals deal with the problem, so replacement of the coolant with comprehensive cleaning is carried out within one working day, even at the height of the heating season.

How to pour antifreeze into an open system

This is exactly the case when you should buy safe propylene glycol. It's all about the open expansion tank communicating with the atmosphere. Since it is located within the house (usually in the attic), small amounts of fumes can enter the living spaces. In general, pouring antifreeze into an open system is not advisable. It is better to convert it into a closed one, from where it will not evaporate.

The diluted concentrate is poured through an expansion tank or make-up valve using a pump. In this case, all Mayevsky air valves installed on radiators must be open. As the tank is filled, the taps are closed, after which the coolant level is brought to approximately 1/3 of the expansion tank.

Advice. Before you pump antifreeze into the heating system of your home with your own hands, you need to make sure that all shut-off and control valves are open.

After starting and warming up the boiler, you need to bleed the air through the batteries again. If the level of heated coolant in the expansion tank has dropped, then add antifreeze to about half.

Starting the heating of an apartment building

In a multi-storey building with bottom filling, the heating system is started as follows:

• When the supply is closed and the return is closed, the discharge of the supply pipeline opens;
• The return valve opens very smoothly. A sudden opening of the valve will most likely lead to water hammer, which can seriously damage the radiators, even to the point of rupture;
• After some time, water without air will come out of the discharge. When this happens, the discharge closes and the supply pipeline valve opens;
• All that remains is to bleed the air from all parts of the system where this is possible.

In a house with a top fill, starting is much simpler: you just need to open two valves with the discharges closed, get to the top air valve located on the expansion tank, and bleed the air.

Advantages and disadvantages of coolant water

Water is the most common coolant option, the popularity of which is explained by the following advantages:

• Cheap - in financial terms, water is accessible to everyone: you can regularly change the coolant and safely release liquid from the system for maintenance work, because refilling will not entail large costs.
• High thermal performance – water has an increased heat capacity at maximum density. Thus, 1 liter of liquid transfers 20 kcal of heat energy through heating devices - water has no equal in this indicator.
• Maximum safety - water does not cause the slightest harm to the environment or humans.

Coolant water also has disadvantages:

• Freezing - at critical negative temperatures without a regular flow of heat, water quickly turns into a crystalline form, which can cause deformation of the heating system.
• Corrosiveness - water is a powerful oxidizing agent, so it is dangerous for equipment made of some ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
• Aggressive composition - untreated water contains a lot of salts, iron, hydrogen sulfide and other compounds that are layered with sediment and clog heating equipment.

Antifreeze volume calculation

When purchasing expensive anti-freeze units, in order not to overpay, before filling the heating system, you should know the required volume of coolant. The easiest way to accurately determine it is to pump water into the main line with a pressure of 1 - 1.5 bar, and then drain it and measure the resulting amount. You can add 10% to the mass of the liquid for airing and evaporation of the coolant.

V (system) = V (boiler) + V (cistern) + V (batteries) + V (pipes)

The working volume of the boiler and expansion tank is determined from the passport data for the equipment provided by the manufacturer. In the same way, the capacity of radiators is determined from the operating instructions by multiplying the indicators of one section by their number. In the absence or loss of passports for the boiler, hydraulic accumulator or radiator heat exchangers, the necessary information is obtained from Internet sources.

The volume of the working fluid in the pipeline is determined by multiplying its cross-sectional area by its length according to the well-known formula:

V (volume) = S (area) x L (length), where

S (area) = 3.14 (pi) x R2 (radius squared).

Rice. 9 Example of calculated data for finding volume

Antifreeze reaction to overheating

One of the characteristics of all antifreezes is the operating temperature range. This factor is very important - this type of coolant has a very negative attitude towards overheating, as a result of which the material begins to collapse. The boiling point of antifreeze, depending on the type, can vary from 106 to 116 degrees Celsius. This difference largely depends on the amount of water in the coolant.

Exceeding the maximum permissible temperature leads to obvious consequences - first of all, anti-corrosion additives stop working, then boiling glycols begin to decompose into tiny particles, which settle on the internal walls of the heating system in the form of scale, clogging the working channels.

To prevent overheating of the coolant, it is necessary to increase its circulation rate - in this case, the system elements will be protected from high temperatures. Considering that most antifreezes have a relatively low heat capacity, thermal conductivity and high viscosity, for their normal movement it is necessary to select sufficiently powerful circulation pumps and heating devices.

All types of antifreeze are very fluid and easily find various microcracks in which leaks form over time. In addition, heating with antifreeze in a private house does not allow the effect of swelling of the seals to occur, so the smallest gaps for the coolant present under them look like the widest channels for leakage. To get rid of this factor, and at the same time increase the quality of the heating system, you will have to tighten all existing connections well.

The tightness of heating is a very important point, especially when using antifreeze as coolants. It's all about the susceptibility of ethylene glycols to oxidation upon contact with air. The intensity of oxidation increases many times with increasing coolant temperature. Lack of tightness even in a single section of the heating system always leads to a significant reduction in its service life.

The operation of antifreeze has some features related to their physical properties. Unlike water, which begins to crystallize very quickly when the temperature drops, antifreezes change state very smoothly, first becoming more viscous, and only after some time they begin to harden. This rule works both ways - when starting a frozen system filled with antifreeze, you need to increase the boiler temperature gradually so that the coolant has time to react to changing operating conditions.

Antifreezes that are in a frozen state increase in volume so slightly that you don’t have to worry about any danger to the heating system. As the temperature rises, the coolant returns to its original properties. For normal operation, antifreeze poured into the home heating system must be diluted with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer of the specific type of coolant. In addition, some substances can work independently, without adding water.

Refilling with non-freezing coolant

Before figuring out how to fill various heating systems with antifreeze liquids or antifreeze, you should understand their types.

For normal operation of heating systems, antifreeze (anti - against, freeze - freeze) must be:

• non-toxic , eliminating the possibility of the slightest threat to people;
• non-flammable , and their vapors are explosion-proof;
• inert to the materials from which the heating system is made;
• have a heat capacity not less than its calculated value;
• be fluid.

In their “pure” form, antifreeze is aggressive and can destroy pipelines, boilers and heating devices. To reduce or completely eliminate the negative properties of antifreeze liquids, they are diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer of the compositions.

Antifreeze is produced in two versions, distinguished by freezing temperature. This is a concentrated product -65°C and diluted - 30°C

Additives are also used: anti-corrosion, stabilizing, cleaning, anti-foam and others. The less water, the lower the freezing point and the higher the cost. When diluting antifreeze, you usually need to add the additives that come with the kit. Additives work at a certain concentration.

The compositions cannot be used without a complex of additives, as they provide the specified parameters. For the same reason, it is not recommended to mix different coolants, especially with different bases. Their service life is sharply reduced. Antifreezes have high viscosity and cannot be used in heating with natural circulation.

The average shelf life of organic coolants is 3–5 years, after which the additives lose their properties and the liquid becomes aggressive. When replacing, old antifreeze must be pumped out and taken for disposal, which further increases costs.

Cars once used water for cooling, but this is now rare. Now in the world, more than 70 percent of heating systems operate on water, but the percentage is decreasing all the time. The reason holding back the widespread use of antifreeze is both their high cost and increased requirements for equipment, toxicity and the need for their disposal.

For more complete removal, antifreeze that has spent its life is drained in a state heated to 45 degrees.

Now the main equipment is designed for water and manufacturers, who value their reputation, often indicate that they do not guarantee operation with antifreeze. Or indicate the permitted type of antifreeze under certain conditions. Experimenting on your own is dangerous.

Antifreeze compounds are critical to overheating. They begin to decompose and form gases and solid deposits. Air locks, burnt marks in boilers and equipment failure occur.

At temperatures of 80 degrees and above, steam formation begins, so modern boilers have heating up to 75 degrees, supported by automation. If exceeded, an emergency shutdown of the boiler occurs. With organic coolants, the temperature is reduced to 70 degrees.

It is not advisable to use antifreeze in gravity heating systems. They have too much viscosity to move spontaneously through pipes. From an open expansion tank, liquid will evaporate freely, forcing it to regularly replenish the volume and release caustic volatile substances

For safe operation of the heating circuit with antifreeze, an automatic system is needed that turns off the heating unit when the temperature is exceeded. If there is no such device in the heating system circuit, antifreeze should not be used as a coolant.

Typically, the technical documentation for boilers and equipment indicates the type of coolant. The use of another coolant removes responsibility from the manufacturer and terminates its warranty service.

To refill heating systems, coolants are produced based on ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerin.

Cheapest ethylene glycol

The disadvantage is toxicity; a dose of 100–250 grams is lethal to humans. Has the third hazard class according to GOST. The fumes are also toxic. The permissible MPC norm is 5 milligrams/cubic meter. meter. Therefore, it cannot be used in open heating systems. It is also prohibited for double-circuit boilers, because the product may leak into the hot water supply line.

To eliminate this, craftsmen make the water supply pressure higher than the heating pressure. But this does not provide a complete guarantee and can cause, if damaged, the boiler to fail. The use of ethylene glycol is only permitted for closed heating systems.

When filling the heating circuit with ethylene glycol-based anti-freeze, wear gloves and a respirator. The liquid is toxic and may cause burns if it comes into contact with skin.

Heating leaks and breakouts are very likely. If the system is filled with an inexpensive but toxic ethylene glycol-based product, leaks can pose a health hazard to home owners. The relatively low price is the reason for its application. You can't buy health like you can buy antifreeze. Therefore, the choice is yours.

Ethylene glycol has 1.5-3 times greater penetrating ability and aggressiveness towards seals.

The increased fluidity of antifreeze requires the use of paronite or Teflon seals and special sealing pastes and seals in detachable joints. Standard options for water circuits are not suitable

Automotive antifreezes and antifreezes should absolutely not be used as they contain more toxic additives.

For glycol coolants:

1. The maximum temperature should be no more than 70 degrees, which further increases the size of the batteries.
2. Viscosity is 40-60% higher and pumping requires 1.5 - 2 times more motor power and minimization of bends, bends and increased pipe size.
3. Volumetric expansion during heating is 140-150% greater; an increased volume of the expansion tank is required by the same amount.
4. Density is 15–20% higher, strength characteristics increase.

The construction of a new system designed for the use of synthetic coolants costs 1.3–1.5 times more than the construction of a water analogue. The considerable cost of the non-freezing liquid itself should also not be forgotten.

Reworking the water fluid is also not used, since the service life is reduced and, as a result, it is more expensive. Glycol mixtures are also aggressive to zinc, causing peeling and sludge that completely clogs the pipes. In older structures, galvanized pipes are common.

However, taking into account the above disadvantages, ethylene glycol is still used. It is necessary to fill the systems only after all heating system equipment is adapted for filling with antifreeze.

A special feature is the need to locate the refueling equipment on impermeable surfaces to prevent glycol from entering living spaces and careful control of the connections of the adapter hoses. Although neat craftsmen do this when filling with any antifreeze.

Specifics of using propylene glycol

Recently, it has been actively replacing other types of coolants, although its physical and technical parameters are almost no different from ethylene glycol and require almost the same changes in heating system equipment. According to GOST, it belongs to the second hazard class and also requires disposal. Vapor MPC – 7 milligrams/cubic. meter.

Antifreezes of this group are produced on the basis of pharmacological propylene glycol, which does not have such a harmful effect on organisms as the previous version

The advantages of this non-freezing coolant:

• relatively environmentally friendly and harmless to people . This is the main reason why many manufacturers now recommend it for single-circuit and double-circuit boilers;
• has lubricating properties , which facilitates the operation of pumps;
• when water completely evaporates, it does not freeze , maintaining fluidity;
• corrosion activity is very low , and with additives it even improves;
• When spilled, just rinse with water and wipe.

Polypropylene glycol liquid has disadvantages. This is its cost, which is 1.5 - 2 times higher than ethylene glycol, because it is produced mainly abroad. The liquid is aggressive towards metal pipes and is not compatible with pipelines constructed from galvanized pipes, because upon contact with zinc, the additives in the composition lose their properties.

At temperatures above the permissible level, decomposition begins with the formation of gases, foam and solid insoluble sediment.

Despite all these disadvantages, it is considered one of the best coolants.

Features of glycerin coolants

As harmless as propylene glycol at acceptable temperatures. Historically, they were the first to be used for these purposes, obtaining glycerol from fat. The strait is not dangerous. The advantage is the price, which is lower than that of propylene, remaining higher than ethylene glycol. Therefore, it is used by counterfeiters to dilute polypropylene glycol.

Non-freezing liquid based on glycerin belongs to the elite category. It is safe for others and the environment. Filling with such antifreeze can be done in the same way as filling the system with water.

Even some European manufacturers add it up to about 10%, so you need to be careful and read the composition. On the other hand, in the European Union, glycerin is not used as the main coolant component.

Glycerin has wider temperature limits - up to 105 degrees. Hazard class two.

Flaws:

1. When maximum temperatures are exceeded, decomposition releases toxic gas with an unpleasant odor.
2. When evaporated, it becomes gel-like, burning and decomposition begin, you need to regularly compensate for evaporation by adding distillate.
3. They have increased viscosity and require larger diameter pipes.
4. It foams easily, which is partially eliminated by additives.
5. It has increased penetrating ability and requires the use of paronite and Teflon gaskets.

It is highly corrosive and has long been rejected by automakers. Due to modern additives, this is reduced and eliminated. Yes, even with proper use.

Glycerin coolants, however, are recommended to a greater extent than ethylene glycol ones for their harmlessness and, with a complex of additives, they work satisfactorily in heating networks. The trouble is that in pursuit of money, they produce products without a full range of additives or without them at all. You need to be careful when purchasing.

A special type includes heating systems with electrode boilers, in which the coolant is also a heating element. Heating occurs when current flows through the solution during its ionization.

The solution, in addition to the above, must have a calculated electrical resistivity of the order of 3.5 - 4 KOhm×cm. To do this, use an aqueous solution or a solution of propylene glycol with additives, which create the necessary electrical characteristics.

This option is more expensive, harder to find on sale, and the canisters are not always labeled. Manufacturers with an impeccable reputation indicate “elite” in their labeling

Pros and cons of anti-freeze in the heating system

,

Antifreeze is an indispensable assistant for country cottages and dachas equipped with a heating system. If you do not plan to live there all year round, you will not be able to monitor the condition of the pipes in winter, and the anti-freeze will prevent them from freezing and deteriorating.

Pros of antifreeze:

• you can not drain antifreeze from a non-working system for a long time;
• due to the fact that the pipes and radiators are filled with coolant, air does not enter them;
• due to the presence of additives in antifreeze, the risk of foam formation, corrosion and scale is reduced;
• the antifreeze still freezes, but at temperatures from -30 °C to -65 °C, depending on the concentration of antifreeze;
• You can reduce the viscosity of the antifreeze by diluting it with water. This way you can save the volume of coolant and protect the circulation pumps.

high price; heats up slowly, cools faster than water; it is important to ensure that all joints of the heating system are sealed; some chemicals included in the antifreeze are toxic; cannot be used in all types of heating systems.

Rules for carrying out work to replace the coolant

For normal coolant circulation inside heating boilers and systems, it is necessary to timely replace antifreeze, which is performed in several steps:

• Stopping the system to reduce its temperature to a safe level;
• Next, the craftsmen drain the circuit - by the color and presence of impurities in the liquid, you can easily determine the degree of internal contamination;
• Before adding new antifreeze liquid, the heat exchangers and system are cleaned. If the contamination is not severe, then the best option is to use a chemical that effectively removes scale and traces of corrosion;
• Then it is washed with clean water, purged with a compressor, then new coolant is poured in and the system is brought into operating mode.

Replacing the coolant restores operating efficiency and allows you to maintain high temperatures with minimal energy consumption (gas, diesel fuel).

Why is it necessary to flush the boiler and system when replacing antifreeze?

During the operation of heating equipment, corrosion occurs in old radiators, radiators, stop valves, and pipes. Also, high temperatures contribute to the formation of deposits and scale directly on the internal surfaces of heat exchangers. There is a need to replace the fluid and clean the system. Our company, along with the chemical method, effectively uses mechanical and hydrodynamic methods. Then it is washed with water and the coolant is replaced with new antifreeze. Now you can use the system in normal mode - the recommended service life is 5 years.

Glycerin

Reviews about coolants of this group are the most contradictory, from the most enthusiastic to the sharply negative.

Positive characteristics of glycerin antifreeze:

1. Complete safety for the human body and the natural environment. This is the safest coolant for the heating system of all antifreezes.
2. Significant range of operating temperatures. The lower limit of crystallization is 30 degrees, the boiling point is the same as that of water (sometimes higher). Freezing of glycerol is not accompanied by its expansion. An increase in temperature not only liquefies, but also completely restores all the characteristics of the substance.
3. Resistant to zinc. In this regard, it is one of a kind among other antifreezes.
4. No aggressive effects on the sealing gaskets of the system are observed.
5. Absolute fire safety.
6. Before pouring glycerin antifreeze, the heating system does not need to be thoroughly rinsed, even if another substance was poured into it before.
7. Durability. If you follow the operating rules, coolants of this type can last up to 10 years.
8. The level of thermal characteristics here is comparable to propylene glycol. At the same time, glycerin coolants are 20-25% cheaper.

Disadvantages of glycerin:

1. Outdated version. Glycerin antifreezes are the most “ancient”: it was in order to improve their performance characteristics that all of the above substances were developed.
2. High density and viscosity. Pumps experience significant difficulties pumping glycerin coolant through the heating circuit. As a result, equipment wears out much faster.
3. Low heat capacity. In this regard, glycerin is inferior not only to water, but also to propylene glycol.

The heat resistance and environmental safety of the substance deserve special consideration:

• Upon reaching a temperature of +90 degrees, significant foaming of glycerin is observed. To reduce this effect, special additives are usually used.
• The same temperature level triggers the process of chemical decomposition of the liquid. As a result of precipitation, the solid substance gradually layers inside the pipes, and the gas released, acrolein, has a very unpleasant odor, being a weak carcinogen.
• When overheated, water evaporates from glycerin, which makes the liquid very viscous. As a result of this, it loses its characteristics, turning into a jelly-like substance already at a temperature of +15 degrees. It is clear that normal operation of the heating system in such conditions is impossible.

As studies have shown, the main component of counterfeit antifreeze coolants for heating systems is most often glycerin. This is explained by its cheapness, which gave unscrupulous manufacturers the idea to use the material instead of propylene glycol, passing off their products as environmentally friendly high-quality propylene glycol antifreezes

Therefore, when purchasing non-freezing coolants, it is necessary to exercise some caution, requiring quality certificates. It should be noted that in Europe, coolants based on ethylene glycol have long been discontinued, but local companies are in no hurry to return to glycerin.

Features of choosing non-freezing liquid for autonomous heating systems

The role of the coolant for the heating system is enormous, since the efficiency of heating and the cleanliness of the working elements from the inside depend on its quality. Today there are quite a lot of offers on the market from domestic and imported manufacturers. They all use special formulations based on propylene glycol. It is a hygroscopic (mixes well with water) material, a liquid. If the solution contains 54% propylene glycol, its freezing point will be -40 degrees Celsius. That is, when you see an assortment of antifreezes that indicate the minimum operating temperature, this is nothing more than an indicator of the concentration of the solution.

This parameter will be the main one, since it determines whether the liquid in the system will freeze if it stops or not. It is also important to add special additives to antifreeze that minimize the formation of scale and promote greater inertness and heat capacity. The manufacturer himself determines which additives to add. As a rule, their list is indicated in the composition.

Another significant parameter is the purpose for systems with certain metals. For example, the composition of antifreeze for boilers with copper heat exchangers will be slightly different from the composition of the liquid for aluminum or steel structures and radiators. Our specialists will help you choose the best solution, calculate the required volume of fluid, and determine the frequency of replacement for the future.

What you need to know to fill antifreeze correctly

Let's start with the fact that it is impossible to mix coolants with different properties, since such a mixture can result in an insoluble precipitate. This will cause the radiator passages and other sensitive parts of the system to become coked over time. To avoid such situations, you only need to fill the car with antifreeze approved for use by the manufacturer of the particular car, and add a similar composition that complements the existing liquid.

The behavior of the cooling composition when water is added to it is an open question. To a certain extent, a diluted mixture can show excellent qualities, provided that distilled water is used. Regular tap water will not work here.

It is worth recalling that the color of the coolant does not depend on its composition. For example, blue and red refrigerant may be absolutely compatible, while two different green liquids will ultimately have different bases and additive compositions.

Many car owners make the mistake of not knowing where to pour antifreeze. And out of ignorance, they always use the radiator socket for this. This hole is indeed present in this device, but only in its collapsible models. Liquid should not be poured or topped up directly into a radiator system with a solid body. Antifreeze enters the radiator and other components of the cooling system through the expansion tank.

If the old fluid is completely replaced with a new one or its brand is changed, the existing refrigerant is drained from the collapsible radiator through an individual hole. The remaining liquid flows out through an additional plug, sometimes covered with a protective panel on the bottom.

A universal instruction will not always help here, since some car models are equipped with non-standard cooling systems with individual drain and fill circuits. This significantly differs the products of English automakers. The standard procedure for filling coolant is simple and consists of several steps that can be performed independently without the help of specialists.

What determines the prices of services for replacing antifreeze in heating systems?

To calculate how much it costs to replace antifreeze with flushing, our technicians need to obtain a number of initial data. First of all, this is the type of system, the total volume of coolant, the degree of contamination of the working elements. The location of the facility is also important - we serve the entire Moscow region, and by prior agreement we travel to the regions for large orders.

In our company you will receive a full package with quality guarantees for all work performed and high-quality antifreeze poured into the system. Managers will provide you with any necessary additional information and accept a request for service at the phone number indicated on the website.

How to fill a heating circuit with water

Water is still a popular heating medium, mainly because it is cheap. When filling heating systems of older design, with medium-section iron pipes and large cast-iron radiators, the use of water will provide significant savings due to the large total volume of the system. Water also has almost ideal viscosity and heat capacity compared to antifreeze. The viscosity of water is also noticeably lower, reducing the likelihood of it leaking through seals.

This is where the advantages of water end. Even prepared tap water contains a large amount of dissolved mineral additives. There can be tens of times more of them in water from a well or borehole. During operation of the heating system at high temperatures, these substances intensively deposit on the walls of pipes and heat exchangers. At the same time, the effective cross-section of the pipes narrows, the efficiency of heat transfer decreases, and parts of the pump and expansion tank are damaged.

Oxygen contained in water leads to corrosion of metal parts of the system.

If a decision is made to fill the heating circuit with water, it should be chemically cleaned of mineral components or at least boiled and the sediment allowed to settle.

And the biggest danger of water as a coolant is that when cooled below 0°C, it freezes, turning into ice and increasing its volume. This leads to destruction of pipes and heat exchangers, damage to pumps.

It is not enough to know how to add water to the heating system; you also need to correctly determine its volume.

Volume calculation

Before filling the heating circuit, it is necessary to calculate its internal volume.

To do this, sum up the volumes:

• boiler;
• expansion tank;
• pipelines;
• radiators.

To calculate the volume of the heating circuit, the volumes of the boiler, expansion tank, pipelines, and radiators are summed up.
The internal volumes of the boiler, expansion tank and radiators are indicated in their accompanying documentation. They are also listed on the manufacturers' websites.

The volume of the pipe in cubic meters is calculated using the formula

where D is the pipe diameter, m

l- pipe length, m

A correction factor is added to the calculated volume, i.e. multiplied by 1.15.

The volume of water can be determined not only by calculation, but by experiment. To do this, fill the system completely with water and pour it into a measuring container. An experienced one is more accurate.

Rules for heating make-up

During operation of the heating circuit, it is periodically necessary to add water or top up. In open-type systems, this can be done directly into the expansion tank; it is also used to control the water level in the system. If the fluid has not reached operating temperature, do not fill the reservoir completely. When heated, the water will expand and flow over the edge.

Modern double-circuit boilers have a special make-up valve. Filling the system is carried out as follows:

• connect the water hose to the make-up valve;
• open the valve at the lowest point of the circuit next to the boiler;
• open the air valve at the top point of the pipeline;
• When water appears from the air valve, close the make-up valve and the air valve.
• If, when starting the heating, you hear gurgling and the sound of flowing water in the pump, you should repeat bleeding the air through the air valve.
• When filling the system, it is recommended to open the valve no more than ¼ of the cross-section.

If cold water with a temperature of 3-8 degrees was added to the system, before turning on the boiler at full power, it is necessary to allow the liquid in the circuit to move evenly to avoid hydraulic temperature shocks.
Date: September 25, 2022

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video will clearly present the process of filling the heating circuit and setting the expansion tank:

Common to all coolants is gradualness when starting the system. The temperature must be increased slowly, step by step, not only because of the coolant, but also because of the additives, which also change their properties with temperature.

The process of filling systems with both water and antifreeze is similar, but the requirements for the quality of work and safety when filling with antifreeze are increasing. Antifreezes that have expired require disposable containers and removal for disposal.

If you have questions about the topic of the article or already have experience in filling heating systems with coolant, please share it with our readers. Leave your comments at the bottom of the article.

Replacement of plumbing systems

Step-by-step instructions for replacing with polypropylene pipes:

1. Mark the tubes where the fittings are attached.
2. Secure the new radiators to the walls using brackets.
3. Preheat the soldering iron for polypropylene to 260 degrees Celsius.
4. Clean the connected ends from dirt, dust, and degrease with gasoline or alcohol.
5. Place the ends of the pipes with fittings on heated Teflon nozzles located on both sides of the soldering iron.
6. Remove the heated parts from the soldering iron and connect them together. Any bend will lead to problems during operation.

It is strictly forbidden to rotate the tubes in the fittings, otherwise this will damage the integrity of the fastening. In addition to using a soldering iron, individual elements can be joined using a special adhesive composition.

Transition from iron pipe to polypropylene, replacement of a section of pipe

Watch this video on YouTube

After assembling the pipeline, you need to conduct a test run. To do this, water is supplied slowly. The pressure gradually increases

It is important to check the connections. We must not forget that independent replacement of metal pipes of risers in high-rise buildings cannot be carried out without permission from the housing and communal services

Otherwise, you may receive a fine.

Installation of pipes in the bathroom and kitchen. The horrors of dismantling cast iron sewer pipes in my grandmother's apartment

Watch this video on YouTube

Polypropylene pipes are considered a relevant alternative when replacing old metal pipelines. They are cheaper and have technical characteristics superior to metal. However, we must not forget that ready-made connections are permanent. The finished circuit cannot be carefully disassembled, which will lead to additional costs.

Secrets of installing polypropylene pipes. Master class for beginners

Watch this video on YouTube

Do-it-yourself polypropylene heating in a private house

For a private house, the best choice would be a two-pipe system. From an aesthetic point of view, it is better to make a closed version of the system location, but technically hiding pipes in the wall is quite difficult.

The development of a heating scheme from polypropylene pipes also includes a heat source for a private home. The boiler can be solid fuel, gas or electric. Electric ones are considered the safest - if you plan to install a heating circuit from polypropylene pipes with your own hands, it is better to choose this option. A solid fuel boiler is difficult to maintain, and connecting heating pipes to it requires special skills - for this it is better to invite professionals. And connecting to a gas boiler makes sense if gas is supplied to the house.

It matters which circulation method is chosen for the home heating system. There is a pump and gravity circulation system. In the first case, the supply and circulation of water in the system will occur due to the operation of the pump. If gravitational (natural) circulation is used, it is imperative to install an air vent and an expansion tank, which serves to protect against pressure surges. If the heating scheme involves overhead wiring, these system elements are installed in the attic of the house.

Important! For the performance of the heating system, it is important to have the correct design of the accelerating manifold (pipe) - a vertical section of pipe connected to the heating boiler. The choice of polypropylene pipe for the heating accelerator manifold will determine the diameter of the rest of the structure: with a main pipe of 32 mm, the diameter of the pipe will be at least 40 mm

The gravity (natural) heating system made of durable polypropylene is very simple and quite durable; its installation does not require additional costs for pumping equipment. But the gravity system also has some disadvantages, including a limited range of action (does not exceed 30 m) and a long time to put it into operation.

For a house with a large area, you need to install a system with forced circulation, but it will require more consumables

A gravity system can be chosen for a small private house, provided that the expansion tank is located in a relatively warm room (to prevent the water in it from freezing).

The heating system radiator is connected to polypropylene pipes in the following ways:

The diagonal scheme involves connecting the supply pipe to the upper pipe, and connecting the outlet pipe to the lower pipe of the radiator. It is noteworthy that heat loss with this method does not exceed 2%. Diagonal connection is used for extended circuits (10-12 radiators). With the side connection type, both the supply and discharge pipes are on the same side of the radiator: the inlet is located at the top and the outlet at the bottom. This method is very effective and is often used in apartment buildings. The lower scheme (“Leningradka”), in which the radiator is connected according to the “bottom-to-bottom” principle, is not recommended for multi-storey buildings, but is acceptable for autonomous ones. The lower wiring can be hidden in the floor if necessary.

Based on the information presented, the answer to the question “Is it possible to use polypropylene pipes to install a heating system” will be quite clear. Products made from PPR are not only a budget option, but also a completely reliable option. In the ranking of polypropylene pipes for modern heating systems, reinforced products occupy a special place, and such designs would be the best choice.

Wiring diagram

Developing, drawing, designing and approving a heating scheme for a new building or at least moving a radiator to another location is the subject of a separate article, not even several articles.
Therefore, we believe that we are only talking about the reconstruction of heating in a city apartment and all the batteries remain in their places. Methods for connecting heating radiators

In this case, the general heating scheme of the house remains as is, and we only need to choose the method of connecting the radiators to the riser. There are four options, see fig. Bottom connection - for hidden wiring

It is important not to forget about TWO ball shut-off valves for each radiator, for supply and return; they are highlighted in color in the left picture. In the event of a leak, this will allow you to disconnect one battery without affecting the entire system

For steel and metal-plastic with aluminum radiators, do not forget about propylene inserts to avoid electrocorrosion. They are also highlighted and labeled on the left.

Do-it-yourself heating from polypropylene pipes in an apartment

Residents of apartment buildings are familiar with the situation when it is necessary to replace an old cast iron pipeline. Replacing heating pipes in an apartment is a rather complicated undertaking, but even here it is quite possible to do without the help of professionals.

A self-designed new heating system in an apartment can work well if you follow the procedure and safety rules. Replacing old heating pipes in an apartment with polypropylene ones will look something like this:

• coordination of work with municipal services. The first and very important stage, which will give you permission to shut off the water supply and discharge it from the system;
• coordinating work with the residents of the apartment above and below yours. Replacing risers will be needed not only in an apartment where renovations are being carried out. However, if dismantling the riser is not possible, you can choose special adapters from cast iron pipes to plastic ones;
• dismantling old heating. Old cast iron pipes lend themselves well to dismantling, but this procedure requires compliance with some safety rules. The fragility of cast iron depends on how long the system has been in use. Old pipes break down very quickly, breaking into small pieces. When struck with a metal hammer, fragments fly off the cast iron, which can get into the pipeline: the water supply system can become clogged. Therefore, for such purposes, it is better to choose a rubber or wooden butt, which everyone probably has at home. Dismantling work should be carried out wearing a respirator and goggles;
• a diagram of the new system is formed, the radiator is hung along the specified perimeter;
• assembly of polypropylene heating pipes and connection of the radiator;
• checking the system for leaks. The testing procedure is carried out under high pressure - 1.5 times higher than normal operating pressure. If the old system was replaced with a new two-pipe system, the water should be run in the opposite direction when checking.

In apartment buildings, metal heating pipes can be replaced with polypropylene ones either completely or partially

The first step is to choose the optimal type of system. The heating system can be one-pipe or two-pipe. The number of radiators and, accordingly, the cost of work will depend on this. A two-pipe system requires a larger number of radiators: if there are more than 8 of them, then a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 32 mm will be used for such heating. If you choose a single-pipe home heating system made of polypropylene pipes, the costs of its installation will be reduced, but the heat will not be distributed evenly. Each subsequent radiator will be cooler than the previous one. The circuit can be supplemented with thermostat valves that regulate the power of each radiator.

Whatever heating system is planned, it is necessary to place an air vent valve in the upper part of the radiator - the Mayevsky valve. In the lower parts, the holes are plugged with a stopper.

Important! When screwing the plug into the radiator inlet, use a knife blade to remove paint deposits and any other contaminants. This even applies to new radiators.

Also, replacing a heating system made of polypropylene pipes with your own hands is done using fittings. clamps, couplings (plugs, angles, tees). What kind of fastening and connecting elements will require replacing pipes depends on which heating scheme was chosen. Replacement of polypropylene pipes is carried out using a welding machine. The heating time for each type of PPR pipe will be different. The most common polypropylene pipes 25 mm and 32 mm require 7-8 seconds to melt. If you are replacing with aluminum-reinforced PPR pipes, do not forget to pre-clean the foil before soldering.

The number of pipes for heating a private house depends on the type of heating system

What is used for electrode boilers

In houses where this type of heating equipment is installed, a special type of antifreeze is used. This is due to the fact that alternating current passes through the coolant and ionization of the solution occurs. This puts forward certain requirements for the chemical composition of the product. Appropriate ionization, electrical thermal conductivity, and electrical resistance must be ensured. Usually the boiler manufacturer himself makes recommendations about which product is best to use. And often, depending on the implementation of the recommendation, the warranty on the equipment is maintained.

Antifreeze is an excellent tool for extending the life of a heating system, especially if it is preserved for some time. However, this product must be used correctly. Before use, you should read all operating instructions from the heating equipment manufacturer, as well as the instructions for use of the products. Only in this case will success be guaranteed; radiators and pipes will last for many decades.

And how to do it

But leaving aside for now the questions of who should do what and be responsible for what, let’s consider purely technically how it is possible, for example, to replace old pipes with plastic ones. This will allow you to remove worn-out pipes clogged with deposits, installing new ones, and thus help solve the problem of how to increase the heat transfer of a heating pipe - due to the passage of more coolant.

In this case, what your neighbors have will be critical for completing the work. If the neighbors above have already replaced the metal riser pipe with a polypropylene one, then you should install the same one.

It is best if you can agree with them on the possibility of connecting to their junction. In this case, you are dismantling the heating in the apartment, i.e. cut out all the old pipes, cut out an adapter from plastic to metal from a neighbor, determine locally the required length of pipes that need to be laid. Then the metal scrap is pulled out from the ceiling, a propylene pipe is inserted in its place and soldered through a propylene coupling to the neighbor’s pipe.

Connecting a metal and polypropylene pipe using a special coupling

In cases where your neighbors have metal left and they do not allow you to make a joint at their place in order to go through the ceiling, you will have to cut your pipe under the ceiling and cut a thread on its remains. A transition coupling for polypropylene is placed on it, and the corresponding pipe is already connected to it.

If you want the heating replacement in the apartment to be complete, i.e. If you are planning to replace radiators, then you need to start work with them.

There are quite a lot of them, and of very different types, but regardless of this, there are general rules, the implementation of which will allow you to get a good result:

• all radiators in the apartment must be placed equally, on the same level;
• the battery must be positioned strictly vertically;
• its top should be five cm below the window sill and six cm above the floor;
• when attaching a radiator, there should be one mounting bracket per square meter of its surface;
• the front surface of the battery should protrude beyond the edge of the window sill.

Correct installation of a heating radiator

Floor insulation for hidden wiring

Removing heating pipes out of sight is tempting from an aesthetic point of view. To prevent hidden heating wiring from subsequently causing the righteous anger of heating engineers with accompanying sanctions, it is advisable to prepare the floor accordingly. If the decorative flooring is laid on joists and additional floor insulation is not required, then the pipes are simply laid between the joists, and removable access hatches are installed above their connections.

Otherwise, the pipes must be laid in the floor. Methods for floor insulation are described in the corresponding article. and for this case we can recommend the following:

• We lay pipes.
• We form an additional warm screed from foam concrete. We fence the pipe connections until the concrete hardens with boards according to the required dimensions (see at the end).
• We lay 12-18 mm plywood flooring directly over the warm screed, gluing the joints with liquid nails or assembly adhesive. We cut out openings in the plywood above the pipe joints.
• We restore the finished flooring. We cut out the hatches for access to the pipes larger than the openings in the plywood - they will simply be removed.

Note: It is advisable to use sheets of tongue-and-groove plywood. But if there are no wild parties in the apartment, you can also install a simple one - it is much cheaper.

The second method is somewhat more expensive, but it is easier to work with and provides access to the pipes along their entire length. To do this, we use foam concrete or aerated concrete slabs with cement-sand mortar as a warm screed. The rest is the same.

Replacing water with antifreeze

If the system has already used water, and you want to switch to antifreeze, then two circumstances should be taken into account.

Secondly

, it is never possible to completely remove water from the heating system. Some of the water remains. If you simply pour prepared diluted antifreeze, its concentration will be insufficient for reliable protection against freezing. Thus, a concentrate must be used. I usually mix concentrate with diluted antifreeze in a 1:1 ratio. After filling the system, you need to start the circulation pump (for a system with forced circulation) or turn on the boiler (for a system with natural circulation) so that the coolant is thoroughly mixed. Then you need to pour a little coolant and measure its density. There is a device for measuring density that is sold in most car dealerships. This device is used to prepare a car for winter (checking the properties of antifreeze in the engine cooling system), but it is also perfect for our purposes. If the device shows a freezing temperature lower than necessary, for example -50 degrees, it’s okay, but if the temperature is higher than we need, then we will have to drain part of the coolant and replace it with concentrate. The drained coolant must be disposed of carefully; it is poisonous and should not be poured into septic tanks or ditches.

I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that different antifreezes may be incompatible with each other. There is an opinion that red composition should not be mixed with a composition of another color.

This is true, but in fact there are other undesirable combinations. Supplements from different brands may react with each other or simply reduce each other's effectiveness. Unfortunately, manufacturers do not indicate what other antifreezes their product can be mixed with. My advice is to pick one brand and stick with it. If you still need to mix, then mix liquids of the same color and before pouring, pour out a little coolant from the heating system, mix it in a jar with a new composition and see if a sediment forms, if the liquid becomes cloudy, or loses its homogeneity.

Unfortunately, errors are periodically found in articles; they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, and new ones are prepared. Subscribe to the news to stay informed.

It is convenient to fill the system through the water drain tap - it is located at the lowest point of the system. With this method, airing is practically eliminated, since the coolant enters from below, gradually squeezing out all the air into the expander. Read the answer.

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Selection of pipes and method of their installation

Before installing a pipeline in an apartment with your own hands, you need to decide on the material. This is necessary in order to select the necessary connecting elements, as well as choose the installation method.

1. Polypropylene pipes occupy a leading position in terms of installing water supply in an apartment or house. This is due to their technical features, as well as their low price. Only one drawback sometimes raises doubts about the advisability of carrying out installation work with this material. This disadvantage lies in the impossibility of disconnecting the pipeline after its installation. The polypropylene material is soldered together using special couplings and a soldering iron.
2. Metal-plastic tubes are not inferior to polypropylene in all respects except cost. For installation of metal-plastic, special threaded type couplings are used. This allows you to disassemble the plumbing to make changes if necessary. Suitable for cases where there is no finance to purchase a soldering iron for soldering polypropylene.
3. Polyethylene or HDPE pipes have an even lower cost than polypropylene, and special plastic fittings are used for their installation. This type of material is easy to install, but is not suitable for high temperatures, so often if installation is carried out with such material, it is only for supplying cold water.

When the optimal material option for installing the water supply system has been selected, you need to understand the method of connecting the pipes. For polypropylene, the soldering connection method is used. To carry out work with a soldering iron, it is not necessary to buy one, since you can borrow money from familiar craftsmen.

The soldering method is based on connecting two polypropylene products using special plastic fittings or couplings. The principle of joining or soldering is based on heating the outer and inner parts of the products, after which they are joined.

Installation of polypropylene pipes

Main stages

The following stages of work can be distinguished:

1. Before starting installation work, it is necessary to cut segments of polypropylene pipes of the required size. If a foil-coated pipe is used during installation, you will have to remove the outer and inner layers of foil at the junction with the fitting.
2. Removing burrs from the end of the pipe.
3. Make a mark with a marker at the fitting entry point to the fitting entry depth. In this case, you need to leave a small gap, which will avoid narrowing at the junction of two pipe segments using a fitting.
4. Place marks at the junction of the pipe and fitting. This will help avoid distortion during the connection.
5. The fitting and the end of the pipe are put on the heated nozzle at the same time to heat them evenly. Thick parts need to be heated at the very beginning.

When connecting, you need to pay attention to how the segments are inserted. If one of them fits too loosely, it must be replaced with a new one. Otherwise, it will not be possible to achieve a good seal of the pipe, and in the near future a leak will form in this place.

After the parts have been heated up as required, they are connected to each other. In this case, you need to use the marks made earlier and try to align them with each other. The parts must not be rotated during installation. Hardening of the heated material takes no more than 10-30 seconds. Therefore, in the first seconds of connection you need to be very careful. After the parts are properly connected, they need to be fixed to cool for the period of time recommended by the manufacturer.

Connection of heated pipes