Instructions on how to make a Stropuva boiler with your own hands

Long-burning furnace design diagram is an option that allows you to use solid fuels, one load of which is enough for several days. Simple designs require two bookmarks per day, and complex ones require one bookmark every few days.

In any case, long-burning solid fuel stoves are an economical option that operate for a very long time without human intervention. There are several models that are common in many regions of Russia - these are Bubafonya and Stropuva. One of their distinguishing features is their simplicity of design. Is it possible to make a Stropuv boiler with your own hands?

The main difference between Stropuv and other types of long-burning furnaces is the fuel combustion zone. In this design, combustion occurs from above, as in a regular fire. In other types, the combustion zone is located below on the grate.

What are the advantages of the first option? The zone will gradually decrease from the highest point to the grate. In this case, there is no specific effect of high temperatures on any boiler height level. This allows the use of material with a smaller thickness for the manufacture of the furnace, which not only saves money, but also ensures convenience during work.

Types and technical characteristics

At the moment, Stropuva is available in three varieties: wood-burning, pellet and universal.
Each of these three varieties is designed for a specific type of fuel, but can work on any other, albeit with less efficiency. In total, the line includes 4 standard sizes: 10, 15, 20, 40 kW and a Mini version with a power of 8 kW. The Stropuva wood-burning boiler is equipped with a special air distributor, which allows efficient burning of wood, and has the following characteristics:

The pellet version is equipped with a distributor for fuel pellets and an air supply manifold. Boilers operating on pellets have the following data:

The last representative of solid fuel boilers is universal. These devices can operate on coal, wood, fuel briquettes and pellets. The delivery set includes distributors for all types of fuel, as well as an air supply manifold. They have the following technical characteristics:

As you can see, from the presented model range you can choose a solid fuel boiler for any room, type of fuel and available budget.

What to heat with?

The heat consumption for an insulated house with an area of ​​100 m2 (±5%) for the middle zone is 12500-25000 kW/h (depending on the “softness” of winter and the geographical location of the house). Table 1 shows the estimated costs of various types of fuel.

Firebox of the Stropuva furnace

Table 3. Calculation of fuel volume for 150 days of heating a house with an area of ​​100 m2

New piping units for solid fuel boilers Stropuva are already on sale

Recommended piping scheme for a long-burning boiler Stropuva S40/S40U (option 2)

Operation of the circuit with a boiler connection, without a backup boiler and heated floor

The circulation pump (P) supplies coolant from the heating system, driving it through the boiler.

The heated coolant from the Stropuva S 40 (1k) boiler enters through the indirect heating boiler (B). If the diameter of the incoming pipes of the boiler is sufficient, the valve (3) closes and the entire coolant flow goes through the boiler, which is connected in series, so the water in it heats up faster.

After heating domestic water (DHW), the coolant enters the radiator system.

(bk3 – 17) – balancing valve designed to regulate the flow. With its help, the flow from the circulation pump is distributed so that it is enough to heat the radiators, and at the same time, so that it is sufficient for the boiler itself. The total flow volume depends on the power of the circulation pump and can be changed by switching the pump speed settings. A circulation pump with a power of 50–100 W is sufficient.

(bk1 – 3) – balance valve of the protective gravity radiator, with the help of which the flow is adjusted so that the radiator return pipe is approximately 40°C colder than the supply pipe.

Recommended wiring diagram for a long-burning solid fuel boiler Stropuva S40/S40U with connection of a boiler and heated floor, without a backup boiler

Fig.8. Elements of a prefabricated boiler room assembly

1. Air vent, 2. Reduction ø 25 – 1, 3. Reduction ø 32 – 25, 4. Nipple ø 25, 5. Tee ø 25, 6. Connection ø 25, 7. Elbow ø 25 internal, 8. Nipple ø 15, 9. Pressure safety valve 1.5 bar, 10. Ball valve with nut ø 25 internal, 11. Ball valve with nut ø 25 internal, 12. Circulation pump nut connection ø 25, 13. Circulation pump, 14. Ball valve ø 15 internal, 15. Three-way distribution valve ø 25, 16. Valve nut connection ø 25, 17. Elbow ø 15 internal/external, 18. Elbow ø 25 internal/external, 19. Filter ø 25 , 20. Balancing valve ø 25, 21. Reduction ø 25 – 20, 22. Expansion tank, 23. Plug ø 25 male, 24. Cross ø 25, 25. Tee ø 25 – 15, 26. Three-way mixing valve ø 25 , 27. Balance valve ø 15, R – to/from radiators, B – to/from boiler/s, F – to/from floor heating, Н – to/from dryer/s with thermostatic valves

The three-way control valve ø 25 (15) can be installed manually.

Fig.9. Recommended piping scheme for long-burning boiler Stropuva S 40 (option 3)

Operation of the circuit with connection of a boiler and heated floor, without a backup boiler

The coolant heated in the Stropuva S40/S40U boiler passes through ø 25 steel pipes. Air is removed from the device through an automatic air vent (0). A safety valve (9) is installed on the external circuit.

The coolant is directed along the external circuit to a three-way mixing unit (12). The mixing unit (12) in the lower part of the circuit is necessary for mixing the return coolant after the circulation pump.

The temperature difference between the supply and return lines should be within 15-20°C. Accordingly, with a supply line temperature of 75°C, the return line temperature should be 55-60°C.

The boiler (4) is connected in a small circuit through a valve (8a, 8b). After heating the boiler, water enters the nearest radiator (2) through the balance valve (8c).

The additional radiator (2) must be connected independently. The radiator is necessary to prevent the boiler from overheating when the circulation pump (7a) is turned off.

The radiator system is connected at the top of the small circuit via valve (8d). The return line from the radiators is fed to the circulation pump (7a) through the valve (8f). On the small circuit, after the coolant is drawn off to the radiators, the heated floors are connected through the circulation pump (7b).

The coolant from the return line of underfloor heating is supplied to the three-way distribution valve (6) through valve (8e).

A three-way mixing valve (6) is necessary to mix the flow and return lines and bring the temperature of the underfloor heating flow line to a temperature of 25-35°C.

The three-way separating valve (12) is connected to the circulation pump (7a) to the common return line. In the lower part of the circuit, after the mixing unit (12), a balancing valve (13) with a flow meter is installed to regulate the water flow into the boiler.

In the return line after the balancing valve (13), drain valves (14a, 14b) are installed to replenish and drain coolant from the system, as well as an expansion tank (10). The pressure in the expansion tank should be 0.5-0.8 atmospheres.

Instructions on how to make a Stropuva boiler with your own hands

Heating of a private home » Boilers and boiler equipment » Solid fuel boilers

Device diagram

Long-burning stoves are an option that allows you to use solid fuels, one load of which lasts for several days. Simple designs require two bookmarks per day, and complex ones require one bookmark every few days.

In any case, long-burning solid fuel stoves are an economical option that operate for a very long time without human intervention. There are several models that are common in many regions of Russia - these are Bubafonya and Stropuva. One of their distinguishing features is their simplicity of design. Is it possible to make a Stropuv boiler with your own hands?

The main difference between Stropuv and other types of long-burning furnaces is the fuel combustion zone. In this design, combustion occurs from above, as in a regular fire. In other types, the combustion zone is located below on the grate.

What are the advantages of the first option? The zone will gradually decrease from the highest point to the grate. In this case, there is no specific effect of high temperatures on any boiler height level. This allows the use of material with a smaller thickness for the manufacture of the furnace, which not only saves money, but also ensures convenience during work.

Boiler classification

Let's start with the stove model range, which is divided depending on the fuel used:

• Boilers running on wood, sawdust and other similar types of fuel. This is the simplest design, energy-independent and cheap when it comes to making it yourself.
• Coal or other more durable types of solid fuel are used. In this case, the solid fuel boiler is equipped with a small fan that will supply oxygen to the combustion zone. Hence the more complex design of the heating unit and its energy dependence. The last criterion complicates the manufacturing process and increases the cost of the product, so we will not consider it.

Drawings of this type of long-burning boilers can now be found freely available on the Internet. So in this regard, there will be no problems if someone takes the drawings as the basis for production. But even without them, it’s not very difficult to assemble homemade boilers based on Stropuva.

Manufacturing of the Stropuva boiler

To make this type of furnace, metal products with a thick wall are not needed. Therefore, we will take an ordinary two-hundred-liter metal barrel as a basis. If you can find a Soviet-style barrel, this would be ideal.

In addition to the barrel you will need:

DEFORT DWM-161. 4 510

• A metal sheet 4 mm thick - we will use it to make a load.
• A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for making a pipe for the chimney and pipes for supplying fresh air to the combustion zone.
• Wire 6 mm thick or several corners for making a grate.
• Channels for weighting the load.

Tools needed:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• roulette.

Additional materials you will need are fiberglass and asbestos cord. Please note that a welding machine is used, which you must be able to operate. Without it, you cannot make a Stropuva solid fuel boiler with your own hands.

Manufacturing sequence

Type of homemade installation

• A lid with a small side is cut out of the barrel, for which a grinder is used. A hole is made in the lid right in the middle for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
• Next, a grate is made from wire or corners. In fact, this is a regular grill, where it is important to determine the size of the cells. The smaller they are, the better, especially when it comes to such small fuels as sawdust or husks. By the way, the grate is not used in all models - sometimes you can do without it. If there is one, then it is installed inside the barrel closer to the bottom. Fastening is done by electric welding.
• Now let's move on to making the load - the press. To do this, a round pancake is cut out of a 4 mm thick steel sheet, the diameter of which is 2–3 cm less than the diameter of the metal barrel. A through hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made in it.
• We weld the pipe to the pancake. Please note that the length of the pipe should be 20–50 cm greater than the height of the barrel. Now 4 channels need to be welded on the back side of the pancake. They are needed to weigh down the press and create a small space under it - this will be the combustion zone. The channels are welded in such a way as not to cover the hole in the pancake. The usual fastening pattern is criss-cross.
• In the barrel just above the location where the grate is installed, you need to make a door through which you can clean the boiler from ash and ashes. This device must be sealed using an asbestos cord.
• A through hole is made on the side of the upper part of the barrel, almost near its upper edge, and a small pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded to this place from the outside. This will be the location where the chimney will be installed.
• Now you need to take care of the removable cover. The upper part of the barrel, which was cut out, must be brought into proper shape. To do this, its sides are slightly expanded - you can simply tap them with a hammer. It is necessary to weld two handles on the top side, with the help of which the cover will be installed manually. On the outside of the side around the entire perimeter, you need to glue an asbestos cord or a strip of fiberglass, which will contain the smoke coming out of the combustion zone.

At this point, all parts of the boiler are ready, and you can begin adding fuel, as well as assembling the structure.

Procedure for assembling the structure

Attention! The closer you pack the firewood, leaving minimal space between them, the longer it will burn. As for sawdust, everything is simpler - you just need to compact it well.

Combustion chamber

The press is installed on the stacked fuel with the pipe facing up, and the barrel lid is put on it. The chimney is connected to the pipe. Long-burning furnaces have a unique design that ensures the removal of carbon monoxide only through a horizontal pipe. That is, the chimney will not be vertical, but horizontal with a slight upward slope. This is another distinctive feature of long-burning stoves.

Before placing the press, it is necessary to ignite the top layer of fuel. Then the press and lid are installed. In this case, the firewood or sawdust in the combustion zone will simply smolder, releasing a large amount of thermal energy. At the same time, as it burns out, the zone will gradually settle under the influence of the load. Smoke from the combustion of solid fuel comes out of the zone between the gap formed by the walls of the barrel and the edges of the metal pancake. It is then discharged through the chimney. Oxygen enters the combustion zone through a pipe welded vertically to the pancake.

Since the metal from the barrel will become very hot, the structure is considered unsafe in terms of fire. Therefore, experts recommend:

• Install such a stove near walls that are built from non-combustible materials.
• A foundation needs to be poured under a long-burning furnace. It can be concrete or fire brick.
• To increase operational safety, you can install a protective heat shield made of metal or bricks.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process if you have the skills to work with a welding machine. The design is not that complicated, so there shouldn't be any problems. It is only important to take correct measurements and accurately connect all parts of the structure. And don't forget about sealing the joints.

Related Posts

Comments and reviews on the material

gidotopleniya.ru

Advantages and disadvantages

Sectional diagram of the Stropuva boiler

It is worth briefly listing the main advantages of Stropuva boilers:

• Cost-effectiveness and convenience - their installation does not require an expensive gas supply, and the long duration of work on a one-time fuel supply saves money and time.
• Energy independence - there are no electronics in the design, so wood-burning boilers, when used in a gravity heating system, do not require electricity.
• Safety and reliability - one of the advantages is control using a bimetallic valve - a simple and trouble-free draft regulator.
• Aesthetics along with simplicity - STROPUVA boilers differ from similar types of devices in their elegant appearance and compact placement. The clear design of the unit eliminates any difficulties during operation.

Among the disadvantages, the following can be noted: their performance is greatly affected by the humidity of the loaded fuel. But this is rather a minus of all solid fuel boilers, and not of a specific brand in particular. The solution here is simple - keep firewood or coal in a dry place.

Comparison of the Stropuva boiler and the Bubafonya stove

We will begin our analysis with the scope of application. If we are talking about a residential building, the Stropuva boiler definitely has the advantage. The characteristics of this unit allow it to work for a long time on one load, it is stable and reliable. At least, cases of complete failure have not yet been encountered. The operating principle of the Stropuva boiler allows you to connect to it both high-temperature heating and a hot water supply system with heated floors. Bubafonya cannot boast of this.

It is more suitable for heating greenhouses, garages, or, at most, summer houses. For more serious projects it is simply not applicable. Advantages of the Stropuva boiler design:

• continuous operation on coal for 5 days;
• temperature stability;
• ease of fuel loading compared to Bubafone.

There are also disadvantages, such as the complexity of the piping, the need for a separate room and the impossibility of repairs until a complete stop. It is also impossible to add fuel while the stove is operating and therefore you have to relight it every time you reload the firebox. But at the same time, of the two units being compared, only the Stropuva factory furnace is still suitable for serious projects. But Afanasy Budyakin’s invention is excellent for utility rooms, since the Bubafonya stove can be made quickly and inexpensively, which in this case is of decisive importance.

Checking the serviceability of the sling boiler

Before using the boiler permanently, it is necessary to test its serviceability. This is necessary to ensure that the boiler can be operated in a safe manner in the future.

So, you will need to fill up to a third of the barrel of the device with firewood. It is covered with a lid on top, and before that you need to throw a match into the barrel so that the fire begins to flare up. For better ignition, be sure to add kerosene there.

Ideally, the wood should ignite immediately. There should be no draft, no smoke, no smell. If any of the above is observed, then you should not use such a boiler. It is highly likely to harm the owners of the house. However, if everything was done correctly, then there should not be such problems.

The specified amount of firewood is enough to heat a small room for a day.

Main models

You can buy a Stropuva boiler in specialized stores that are dealers of the manufacturer, as well as in online stores. The minimum price is 60 thousand rubles for the minimum power model. Let's continue the review with a description of the models being produced.

Stropuva Mini S8

Before us is the smallest wood-burning boiler with a power of 8 kW, designed to heat rooms up to 80 square meters. m. It works on wood briquettes and firewood, is equipped with a safety valve and a thermometer. The heating temperature of the coolant is from +60 to +95 degrees. The maximum pressure in the circuit is up to 1.5 Bar. The efficiency of the model is 85% - a pretty good result for solid fuel equipment. The estimated cost of this boiler is 61 thousand rubles.

Stropuva Mini SP8

This boiler differs from the previous model by supporting operation with pellets. In this mode, it needs to be connected to an electrical network with a voltage of 220 Volts - the electricity is used to operate the fan used in the fuel ignition system. When working with wood and briquettes, the boiler operates in autonomous mode. The remaining parameters are almost 100% similar.

Stropuva S20

One of the most popular models. It allows you to heat residential buildings up to 200 square meters. m. The boiler is built according to an energy-independent scheme; briquettes and ordinary firewood are used as fuel. Burning time is up to 31 hours. If you want to forget about adding fuel for several days, we recommend purchasing the Stropuva S20U modification - it can run on coal, providing up to 120 hours of continuous combustion. The Stropuva S20P model can work on pellets for up to three hours.

Stropuva S40

Before us is the most powerful boiler in the entire line. Its thermal power is 40 kW, combustion duration is up to 31 hours, heated area is up to 400 sq. m. The device is equipped with a rather impressive heat exchanger jacket that holds 58 liters of water. The maximum pressure in the system is up to 2 atmospheres at an average temperature of up to +75 degrees. Over 90 kg of firewood is placed in the combustion chamber of the device. Modifications for working on pellets and coal are also available.

Other models and manufactured modifications

Also on sale are solid fuel boilers from the Stropuva company with a capacity of 15 and 30 kW. They are designed for areas up to 150 and 300 square meters. m. All models discussed in the review are available in three modifications:

• The main one is that the equipment runs only on wood and fuel briquettes (euro firewood).
• With index P – the possibility of working on pellets is provided, burning up to 72 hours.
• With index U - units with the ability to operate on coal, burning time up to 120 hours.

Naturally, the actual burning time may be shorter - it depends on the characteristics of the fuel (type of wood, degree of dryness).

Some people have design requirements for heating equipment

If you really care so much about how the boiler looks, then we have good news - Stropuva produces its equipment in several colors. The main color (and most common) is yellow.

It is possible to purchase boilers in brown, blue, red, green and black colors. Spotted colors are also available (yellow and dirty green).

conclusions

• Stropuva boilers are a good option for heating residential buildings, buildings and premises of service industry enterprises, cafes, and small production workshops. The reliability of the design is confirmed by the long service life of these boilers. No completely negative reviews on the Internet about the brand’s products were found.

• Price categories: in terms of cost, solid fuel boilers of this brand correspond to gas analogues in the middle segment. The difference in price between Stropuva models is almost twofold: a minimum power stove can be found from 50 thousand rubles, a 40 kW boiler costs up to 100 thousand rubles.

Stropuva stove piping

• The optimal types of fuel are coal and firewood. No reviews were found on the use of peat briquettes and other types of fuel.

• Installation of the boiler is simple and can be done with your own hands. Given the large height dimensions, make sure you have an assistant. It is important to remember that this boiler must be installed on a foundation 10-15 cm high.

• The fire safety of the equipment and safe operation, in general, completely satisfy the owners of this equipment.

• In terms of price/quality/heating and operating costs, you can safely rate it 4+ on a five-point system.

• The manufacturer provides a 5-year warranty on all components and assemblies of the boiler.

Feedback on the operation of the Stropuva boiler

What else to read:

Installation and installation of the Stropuva S20 boiler

The Stropuva S20/S20U/S10 boiler is installed in premises that meet state requirements for boiler room premises. The height of the room in which the device will be installed must be at least 215 cm.

The floor must be concrete (at least in the place where the boiler will stand). The room must be isolated from heated living spaces, and it must have a vertical ventilation duct and a window or hole in the external wall so that outside air can easily penetrate the boiler and the ventilation duct.

Using a mirror, the inside of the chimney is inspected through the chimney cleaning hole.

The chimney must be clean. There should be no fittings or bird's nests and no unclosed openings into hollow ceilings or adjacent shafts.

It is checked whether there are any holes in the chimney from the outside through which parasitic air can penetrate, cooling the chimney and reducing the draft in it. All openings and joints in the chimney must be sealed.

If there are internal holes in the chimney in the ceilings or adjacent shafts and it is impossible to seal them, you need to insert an oval or cylindrical liner made of stainless steel (rectangular liners are unreliable due to holes formed at the joints due to temperature changes).

The Stropuva S 20 boiler is installed directly on a concrete floor, and the resulting gaps between the floor and the boiler are closed with heat-resistant material (silicone (180˚C) or a solution of lime and cement with sand or other materials).

The boiler can be placed on a concrete bottom for installation with a sealing rope.

When carrying the unit, its parts are sometimes deformed, so after installing it in the chimney and closing all the doors, as well as the openings for cleaning the chimney, check the operation of the upper damper, whether it is adjacent to the surface of the air supply opening, as well as the tightness of the doors using a candle flame or matches.

Standards and requirements for installation of the Stropuva S20/S20U boiler

Chimney requirements

The diagonal of the chimney opening may be 10% less than indicated in the basic technical data, but not more than twice.

How to start a Stropuva boiler

First, you need to purchase a piping kit to connect the equipment to the heating system. We recommend purchasing a kit with the ability to connect an indirect heating boiler. It includes a set of pipes, a safety group, an expansion tank and a circulation pump. Also on sale are kits for connecting underfloor heating.

It is not recommended to use damp firewood - this will interfere with the normal operation of the boiler.

Ignition is carried out in the following way - here are brief instructions for use:

• We load the wood combustion chamber full with the air distributor raised.
• We fill the finished masonry with sawdust.
• Open the flap for switching to wood.
• Open the air damper 3-5 cm.
• We light the top layer, close the loading door, leaving a gap 3-5 cm wide.
• We wait for reliable combustion, close the loading door and immediately lower the air distributor.

Please note that the cleaning door must be closed. A new portion of firewood can be added to the Stropuv boiler at any time, but doing this with coal is dangerous

In any case, the manufacturer recommends that you always wait until the fuel burns out completely before adding a new portion.

A new portion of firewood can be added to the Stropuv boiler at any time, but doing this with coal is dangerous. In any case, the manufacturer recommends that you always wait until the fuel burns out completely before adding a new portion.

Recommendations for operating a long-burning solid fuel boiler in Stropuva

• When filling the firebox with firewood, it is recommended to place larger logs in the upper part of the stack along the edges, and smaller ones (no more than 0.5 kg) in the central part. This is necessary to prevent the formation of a large amount of smoke during kindling.
• It is necessary to fill the firebox completely, this will allow the boiler to operate longer on one fill.
• When using firewood, the ash should be cleaned out once a month. When using coal, the ash is removed each time before adding a new batch of fuel.
• Air penetration into the firebox through the ash cleaning door is not allowed. The lower door must be closed while the unit is operating.
• The humidity of the firewood should not exceed 30%, otherwise, most likely the fuel will not burn at all, or will not burn enough, which will not allow the required coolant temperature to be reached.
• The air distributor should not be lifted during combustion, as Most likely, after lowering, it will take an incorrect position and sink deep into the combustion zone, this in turn will affect the service life of the boiler.

About firewood

As mentioned above, the quality of the fuel is of great importance. Both for the efficiency of heating equipment and for increasing its service life. This is especially true for firewood - a very unstable type of fuel. The efficiency of the boiler depends on the uniform supply of fuel, which is equalized in its calorific value

This is most important for modern technological heating devices, burdened with automation

Firewood differs in its technical qualities - humidity, specific heat of combustion. That is why manufacturers of boiler equipment insist on choosing high-quality fuel.

Pellets and fuel briquettes are more efficient fuel for a wood boiler

The simplest way to achieve this requirement is to choose artificial “logs” - pellets, fuel briquettes.

You can read in more detail about the differences between firewood and their varieties in the article Pros and cons of various types of solid fuel for boilers: wood and its derivatives.

The manufacturer's recommendations, as a rule, indicate what length of logs are suitable for a particular firebox model. There are boiler options that can accommodate meter-long logs in the combustion chamber.

Log log discord

Wood of different tree species has different densities, which means their ability to produce heat. But, besides this, other features of firewood that affect the operation of the boiler are also important: the amount of non-combustible (ballast) substances and the presence of resins that pollute the chimney and the internal structure of the device during combustion.

Birch firewood

Birch has dense wood, so it burns hot and produces a lot of heat - 3750 kcal, even if the wood is damp. It is highly flammable. But when such firewood burns, especially damp wood, tar is released - a substance useful in medicine, cosmetology or for protecting surfaces from rotting, but extremely harmful to the insides of the boiler.

Soot on the boiler heat exchanger

Alder firewood

Burning alder wood produces virtually no soot. Moreover, burning alder wood helps clean the chimney. Alder is flammable, burns well and produces a sufficient amount of heat - 2100 kcal.

Aspen firewood

Burning aspen, like alder, cleans the chimney. But such firewood itself produces a little heat when burning - up to 1650 kcal.

Pine firewood

They burn well and quite hotly (3800 kcal), but pine wood is resinous and a lot of soot is formed during combustion.

Firewood in the storage meter

Spruce firewood

Spruce firewood is comparable in quality to pine, but has a slightly higher specific heat of combustion - 3900 kcal, and is also less resinous.

Poplar firewood

Poplar burns hot, but burns out quickly.

Firewood from apple and pear trees

Firewood from fruit trees - apple or pear - has dense wood, which means it produces a lot of heat, burns and smolders for a long time. But these species are usually grown for their fruits, so such firewood is not common. Another feature: the trunks of pear and apple trees are clumsy, the logs are difficult to prick, and the logs are knotty and difficult to pack tightly in the firebox.

Oak, beech, ash firewood

Oak, beech, and ash are dense wood; when these species burn, a lot of heat is released - up to 3600 kcal. The disadvantages of oak or beech firewood include their rarity on sale and the difficulty of splitting and heating a boiler with them.

Considering the described qualities of wood as fuel, a good owner stores different types of firewood: some so that it flares up easily, others so that it burns long and hot, and others so that it can periodically clean the chimney of soot.

Reservation of work

The Stropuva boiler will delight you with long-lasting fuel combustion. But even in this case, you can miss the moment of the next bookmark. As a result, the temperature of the coolant in the heating circuit will begin to fall. To prevent this from happening, we recommend installing a backup electric boiler in the circuit. If it detects a temperature drop below the set limit, it will turn on and maintain the set temperature.

Electricity consumption will be small if you don’t forget to add firewood for 2-3 days. The vast majority of the time the boiler will burn, providing heat to consumers. Therefore, you should not expect huge expenses. In addition, the auxiliary boiler does not have to be as powerful as the main one - a model with a power 2-3 times lower is quite enough so as not to make your teeth chatter in the morning. We also recommend working on insulating your home so that it retains the accumulated heat longer.

How to light a boiler

The most difficult thing in cycling is not to ride, but to start and finish the movement. It’s the same in the operation of a boiler - the most difficult thing is to light it. Do not expect that lighting the boiler will take you little time: you will have to allocate about an hour for this procedure.

Firing a wood-burning boiler is a responsible task

The beginning of the firebox is removing the ash and preparing the boiler for operation. After the ash pan and combustion chamber are cleaned, you can proceed to kindling.

Warming up the boiler firebox and chimney

For your own comfort and proper startup of the boiler, you need to warm up its firebox and chimney. If the heating device is not equipped with a forced smoke removal system, in order for the fuel to start burning, it is necessary to create draft. The formation of thrust is based on Archimedes' law: heated gases become lighter and tend to “float”. For their movement and removal, heating devices that burn fuel are equipped with a chimney.

Boiler diagram. Photo from the site www.viessmann.ru/

The design of the boiler is such that the path for smoke is difficult: in its path there is a heat exchanger and a complex convective surface, which reduces the speed of movement of combustion products. And the chimney pipe is usually located horizontally, which also makes it difficult for smoke to move. Therefore, if the boiler is not heated up, combustion products look for the easiest way. And most often the smoke begins to seep into the room.

In some cases, the vertical part of the chimney is equipped with a firebox (a small firebox used to warm up the chimney) with a door, by opening which you can burn a small amount of flammable fuel (for example, paper) directly in the chimney itself. When used, the heating element warms up the inside of the chimney duct.

If this possibility is not provided, then kindling is placed in the firebox - crumpled paper, birch bark - something highly flammable. On top of the kindling are chips and splinters, then logs of small thickness. The combustion chamber must be filled with firewood to no more than half the calculated volume.

At the moment of kindling, you need to open the chimney damper and the blower valve, ensuring the flow of air for combustion.

There is advice before starting the fire to open the window in the boiler room, if there is one: do not forget that the physical and chemical process of combustion requires oxygen.

How to properly heat a boiler with wood

To burn a kilogram of wood, about 5 cubic meters of air are required. If the air flow into the boiler furnace is from the boiler room, then it is necessary to arrange supply ventilation - especially if the boiler room does not have windows or they are sealed (with double-glazed windows).

After laying the logs, the kindling is ignited. When a stable combustion appears, the firebox door must be closed and the filling should be allowed to burn out.

Output to design power

As soon as the combustion chamber and chimney have warmed up sufficiently, you can proceed to the main stage of boiler operation. To do this, repeat the kindling process using well-burning materials. Now the main load of firewood is already complete, in order to fill the combustion chamber, according to the instructions for the device.

After the fuel has ignited, the boiler will reach its design capacity after some time. Now the combustion process will occur independently for some time. How long depends on the volume of the combustion chamber and the operating principle of the boiler. After the stack of firewood burns out, you will need to make a new one.

A properly functioning boiler is a source of heat and comfort in a country house

Important! When lighting, do not use lighter fluid or flammable gasoline, diesel fuel, etc.

Bubafonya stove with water jacket

Pyrolysis furnace Bubafonya from a gas cylinder with a water jacket.

Finally, we got to the domestic analogue of the Stropuva boiler, which is much simpler to implement, since it has a non-folding pipe for supplying air to the firebox. There are already so many instructions on how to make a Bubafonya stove with your own hands that only a blind person would not have seen them, unless, of course, they were interested in this topic. And why all? Yes, because the process is so simple and if you take the matter seriously, you can get a finished product from scratch in a day. What is the Bubafonya stove made from with your own hands:

• from a gas cylinder;
• from a barrel;
• from pipes

It can be either round or square. Let’s not repeat the same thing, just read the article: “Bubafonya stove from a gas cylinder” - and everything will become clear to you. Today we will consider a version of the product with a water circuit, as if we will try to repeat the principle of operation of the Stropuva boiler. All that is required is to make a simple Bubafonya and insert it into a pipe of a larger diameter. Thus, we obtain a gap in which the coolant will be heated.

Naturally, this space above and below is sealed so that various debris does not get there. What is important when making a Bubafonya stove with a water jacket with your own hands:

• use of heat-resistant steel;
• wall thickness of at least 4 mm;
• the presence of a tap for draining and replenishing water.

Immediately provide a hole in the upper part through the outer and inner walls for installing a chimney into it. There should also be enough space for water. The distance from the outer to the inner wall is about 10 cm. When connecting, do not confuse the supply and return pipes (supply from above).

Solid fuel boiler Stropuva design and operating principle

Introduction

Solid fuel boilers from Stropuwa are noticeably different from other solid fuel heating devices and not only in their original color. Their device is also very unusual. Today we will try to figure out what advantages their design has and what disadvantages it has. And real owners of Stropuva heating boilers will share their experience of using them with kotlydlyadoma.ru readers.

The history of the Stropuva boiler began in 2000 in Lithuania, when it was invented and patented. Since then, thanks to their original technology, combustion duration, high efficiency and energy independence, these devices have taken their rightful place in the heating equipment market.