Do-it-yourself Russian stove with and without a stove bench: structure, masonry, arrangement

Modern private houses rarely resemble old village huts; more often, another name is more suitable for them - a cottage. However, even now many owners of estates, especially country ones, follow traditions and consider Russian stoves with a stove bench as useful and functional heating and cooking structures.

We will tell you what a stove with a trestle bed or bed is like. Let's consider the technical side of the issue, together with you we will understand the design features. Independent home craftsmen will find in the article we presented a detailed description of the structure with diagrams and procedures.

What tools are needed?

To build a heat source at home, you need to prepare a basic set of tools:

hammer-pick;
Master OK;
rule;
grinder, cutting wheels for stone, metal;
measuring instruments - building level, ruler, square, plumb line;
carpentry tools to assemble the foundation formwork;
wooden arrangement;
several containers and devices for mixing the solution and breaking up the clay.

For construction you will need bricks and a sand-clay mixture for mortar. The amount of material should be based on the scale of the work. You will also need stove fittings - a blower, combustion and cleaning doors, grates, a smoke damper, a hob.

Furnace projects

It is better to choose a design for a stove with flooding at the stage of planning a residential building in order to tie the foundation of the device to the elements of the building in order to create stove openings in the ceiling and attic floor. Fire safety regulations must be taken into account. The customer can choose the type and design of the stove, as well as determine its functionality.

Among the most popular heating device projects:

Barbecue ovens. Installed in garden gazebos, residential buildings and public catering establishments.
Stoves and fireplaces. The fireplace instantly heats the room, and the stove helps maintain heat for a long time.
Complexes - a combination of 2 or more furnaces. Their advantage is the ability to heat even a large area.
Furnaces with bottom and side heating. Such devices have a pipe channel in the center of the smoke collector.
Stoves with water heating boiler. Convenient if the house has a large number of rooms.
Simple heating devices.
Heating and cooking structures. Most often they have a two-tier smoke circulation system. Flue gases enter first into the lower part of the furnace, and then into the upper. Such heating helps to retain heat for a long time.
Sauna stoves.

When choosing a project, you need to pay attention to the details: the specific dimensions indicated in the diagram, a complete and accurate description of each construction step, comments and explanations. To make it easier to build a stove, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the designs of devices in such magazines and books as: To make it easier to build a stove, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the designs of devices in such magazines and books as:

To make it easier to build a stove, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the designs of devices in such magazines and books as:

"House";
"Myself";
“We do it ourselves”;
“Professional Advice”;
A.M. Shepelev “Masonry of stoves with your own hands”;
Ya.G. Porfiryev “Kiln works”;
P.I. Voropai “How to fold a stove.”

Material selection

The following materials are required for construction:

Red ceramic brick. It is necessary to check in advance that it is well fired and has a high quality density

It is especially important to choose the right bricks for the hearth (even, smooth, the same height). Solution. Its composition should include sifted fatty clay, river sand and clean water. Cast iron parts: furnace, blower, cleaning, ventilation doors, grate, view, damper, stove and two burners, water heating box

Its composition should include sifted fatty clay, river sand and clean water. Cast iron parts: furnace, blower, cleaning, ventilation doors, grate, view, damper, stove and two burners, water heating box.

Preparing the site

The foundation must be made so that it can withstand heavy loads. That is why it is better to design it in parallel with the house itself, since it will be difficult to build a foundation in an existing structure.

Professionals usually adhere to standard technology: they make a protrusion between the edge of the foundation and the masonry of at least 0.5 m.

After the structure is ready, it is necessary to lay cardboard impregnated with a special composition in two layers as a waterproofing material. To achieve the best result, choose strong bricks without breaks and make thin seams (up to 5 mm).

Foundation

The stove has impressive dimensions and weighs a lot, so it needs reliable support.

The work algorithm is as follows:

Prepare the pit. Calculate the dimensions based on the stove base. On each side you need a margin of 15 cm. Go deep by 50-70 cm.
Pour sand, pour water, compact it so that the thickness of the waterproofing becomes 15-20 cm. Pour more sand, pour water and level it.
Lay out the roofing material in 2 layers.
Install the formwork and cover it with film.
Mix cement, sand and crushed stone 1:3:5. Use water to get a semi-liquid mixture.
Pour cement mixed with gravel into the formwork, 20 cm high. Pierce this layer several times to let the air out, compact it.
While the solution has not hardened, install the reinforcement. Height above concrete 5-7 cm.
Fill another layer of 10-15 cm, when it sets, lay the reinforcing mesh.
Fill the entire formwork with mortar and level it.
Lay roofing felt in 1 layer.

If you are planning a small stove, then a guard base is allowed. Install it on the floor beams. Such a base is a frame made of timber or logs with 2 crowns. To strengthen the beams and stabilize the furnace, intermediate piles are driven into the center. Rubble is poured into the free space, with felt soaked in liquid clay on top. This base can support construction up to 700 kg. If the weight is greater, then a slab foundation is needed.

We make the foundation

Before you start building a heavy structure, you need to pour its foundation. But if you make a stove in an already finished house, then you will create the foundation for it right there. It is important to ensure that the base of the house does not come into contact with the stove. The depth of its foundation depends on how large the stove is: the larger the structure, the deeper the foundation needs to be made.

Foundation

Creating a pillow

Before pouring the foundation, it is important to carry out preparatory work. First of all, you need to put markings. Afterwards, you can proceed to digging a pit of the required depth. When you have thoroughly compacted its bottom, add slightly damp sand there and compact it again. The thickness of the compacted sand ball should be 10-20 centimeters. Now fill everything with crushed stone to a height of 15 centimeters. It also needs to be compacted.

We create formwork

Before pouring the solution, you need to build and install the formwork. Any wooden slats are suitable for creating side walls. If there are any gaps, cover them with plastic and secure them with a stapler. The formwork must be higher than the soil and reach the foundation. It can be done right along the edge of the pit.

Fill the solution

When the formwork is installed, fill the foundation with mortar. For it you will need coarse gravel, cement and sand.

Coarse gravel

The minimum fill height is 15 centimeters. When the first layer has been poured, place reinforcing bars vertically in it - this will connect this layer to the concrete mixture.

Fill in the lightweight solution

Fill the reinforcement sheets with lighter concrete, the layer of which should reach the ground. When everything is done, level this mixture and wait until it hardens a little. After this, cover it with steel reinforcing mesh and fill it with concrete to the thickness of the formwork. Level the poured screed and leave to dry for 27-30 days.

Creating a waterproofing surface

When the screed has dried, remove the formwork. Cover the base with a layer of waterproofing made from glued roofing felt balls. When everything is ready, start laying the stove walls.

Advantages and disadvantages of the oven

Among the positive qualities of the heating device, the following is noted:

Cheap design. To build the unit, you will need a minimum of materials: red brick, clay and sand.
Economical. The efficiency of the simplest device exceeds 60%, and the efficiency of a more complex design is more than 80%.
Works equally well on various types of solid fuel.
Functionality (cooking, heating, warm sleeping place).
The long operating time of the stove allows it to be heated once a day.
Has therapeutic properties. Food is cooked in it without direct contact with fire and superheated gases. At the same time, the optimal temperature for cooking is maintained. Thanks to these features, carcinogens and toxins are not formed in food. As for relaxing on a bed, six hours of sleep is enough to feel alert and alert in the morning.
Safety of use. The flame burns deep in the furnace. Sparks can only appear in severe frost.
Durability. Service life exceeds 30 years.
The interior of the room with the Russian stove is original, unlike any other.

Disadvantages of a heating unit include the following:

Possibility of using only solid fuel, which burns slowly. Something that burns quickly requires a lot of air, which can lead to a fire hazard.
The need for fuel procurement.
Low heat transfer.
Not suitable for apartment buildings due to poor smoke circulation. If there is only one channel, combustion products will be removed from the furnace that is heated hotter than the others, while other units will begin to smoke.
It will take a day to completely heat the device when cold weather sets in.
The slightest flaws made during the construction of the unit can manifest themselves during operation.
Takes up a lot of space in the house.
The need to get rid of waste.
The air below does not warm up. However, today it is possible to create equipment with bottom heating.

Final works

You have built an excellent and multifunctional fireplace for your home with a stove bench on your own. Not only is it pleasant to admire, but the fireplace can heat a room and retain heat for a long time even after the combustion process has ended. The credit for this goes entirely to the material. Brick has a high heat capacity and is able to accumulate heat.

The very presence of a stove in the house requires the design of the room to be designed accordingly. A brick stove without finishing looks good against the background of wooden or wood-trimmed structures. In this case, it is necessary to comply with all fire safety rules. When lifting the chimney through the ceiling, you will have to install a heat-protective belt. This will save not only from a possible fire, but also from deformation of the ceiling material.

Modern styles of room decoration will require the same from the fireplace. Here you can use different materials to suit the owner’s taste. The exception is those that are unstable to elevated temperatures. But if one of the main functions of the stove is heating, which is most likely, then it is better not to cover the brick, but to give it the opportunity to fully transfer heat to the room.

Russian stove with stove and heating shield

When building a simple chimney, most of the heat generated by the stove is wasted. Hot gases and smoke go directly into the street, while they could be used to heat the house. If a stove is installed, the situation improves, since part of the heat is spent on heating it and remains in the room.

To increase heating efficiency, heating panels are built. By design, it is a brick wall located above the crucible and hob.

Its peculiarity is the channels laid inside for the exit of smoke. Due to their length, hot gases on the way to the chimney transfer most of their heat to the walls of the shield and continue to warm the air in the house for a long time.

Important! The shield channels must be equipped with dampers and provide for direct smoke exit to the outside. This is of great importance in the summer, when additional heating of the house is not required and creates uncomfortable conditions when using the stove for cooking.

Diagram of the Teplushka stove

The main firebox of the Russian stove designed by Podgorodnikov is located in one of the corners of the stove, from there the flue gases (FG) are directed under the roof, which is heated. Next, through the holes along the edges of the hearth, the diesel generators go into the lower heating chamber. The furnace chimney starts from the very bottom of the chamber - as a result, the lower zone of the furnace heats up well, and the overall efficiency of the furnace improves. The stove can also be heated like an ordinary Russian stove, burning wood on a hearth in a crucible. This is useful if there is no need to heat the room, but you need to cook food or bake bread.

The structure of an ordinary Russian stove is described in another article.

Other oven options

Russian stove with stove bench and stove

In addition to the classic version, there are other modifications.

Russian stove with stove bench and stove

This model is the most popular because it allows you to heat the room and cook food in the usual way. According to the scheme of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a stove, the well is first laid, then the door and vent are mounted (rows 3, 4), the stove is installed on the 9th row. Everything else is according to the template.

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Mini Russian oven

Due to the fact that the furnace and the stove are adjacent, the dimensions of the furnace are significantly smaller - no more than 100 x 130 cm. The height of the structure is the same as that of the classic model; the overpipe ends in a pipe that goes into the ceiling.

Russian stove with fireplace and stove bench

This model is very complex; its laying will require not only knowledge, but also experience. The formation of fireplace channels begins already from the 2nd row. (they will require 14 doors and a blower door), and ends on the 38th row.

Another diagram of the furnace masonry

We will not dwell on this option in detail. From the previous diagram it is easy to understand what each element in the illustration represents.

Figure 5. Layout diagram of another furnace option

This model is one of the simplest. However, it is effective and efficient. Unlike more complex structures, the execution of this one can also be entrusted to even a relatively unprepared homeowner.

Figure 6. Alternative design with a bed

Scheme of a Russian stove with a hob

In Rus', they cooked directly in the oven, leaving the dishes to simmer in the cooling crucible, sometimes for many hours. Modern models often have a built-in wood-burning stove, making it possible to cook over an open fire. It is located directly above the combustion chamber doors.

The hob is most often made of cast iron - it is a heat-intensive and durable metal, which has the peculiarity of not giving off heat directly to the surrounding space, but retaining it within itself. This allows you to create comfortable conditions for cooking - there is no zone with overheated air around the stove.

Photo 3. Diagram of a Russian stove with a stove bench and a cast iron stove. The dimensions of the finished device are also indicated.

Successful cooking will be ensured by special holes in the stove that give an open flame direct access to the walls of the cookware. To increase or decrease the heating intensity, removable cast iron circles are provided that change the diameter of the burner.

Attention! Despite all the positive properties, cast iron is a very fragile material

If you carelessly pour water over a hot cooking surface, it will crack. Cast iron also cannot be repaired or welded, so a damaged plate will require a complete replacement

Cast iron also cannot be repaired or welded, so a damaged stove will require a complete replacement.

Construction

First, find the location of the future device. Usually the structure is erected in the largest room, located at a distance of one and a half to two meters from the external walls.

To build a stove you need a strong foundation; the presence of a stove bench and the ability to cook food do not affect its thickness. The foundation is poured below the soil freezing level in the given region.

Attention! The stove foundation is not connected to the main foundation of the house

Choosing a project from which to build a stove

You can find many diagrams of a Russian stove on the Internet, but in matters of construction it is better to trust an invited master.

The stove with a stove bench consists of the following elements:

Body. It is made of brick and includes a system of smoke ducts.
The main firebox or chamber where firewood and its substitutes are burned.
Crucible.
Chamber for collecting settling ash.
A place to store dishes and other things.
Bed.
Chimney.

There are several types of bricks that can be used during the construction of the device:

ordinary clay brick;
clay solid brick;
refractory brick made of fireclay clay.

A brick is placed on the body of the furnace using a clay-sand mortar; for cladding and pipes, ordinary cement mortar with the addition of lime can be used.

The total number of bricks for standard oven sizes is 650-800 pieces. The solution consumption is approximately 20-25 buckets.

After construction is completed, the stove is dried, then the device is heated for 2-3 days. After the first small batch of firewood is burned, the doors are opened, then the amount of combustion material is increased until the firebox is fully loaded. At this time, it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the walls; the appearance of the smallest cracks on the body of the structure is a sign of poor quality work.

DIY Russian mini oven

A large structure is not suitable for every home, so you can make a mini Russian stove with your own hands. You can do it with a flood and use it in the summer, when there is no need to heat the premises.

Russian mini stove

When thinking about how to make a mini stove, you can settle on the classic version. The size of the base is 1x1.3 m. A mini-brick oven is built as follows:

Organize a small foundation.
Build a red brick guardhouse.
Lay the walls under the stove.
Lay down a wooden template to form the lower arch.
Build walls with an arch for the combustion chamber.
Pour sand into the arch.
Proceed to forming the front wall, mouth, pole, over-tube.

This type of mini Russian oven can be laid out quite quickly with your own hands and does not require any special skills.

Arrangement of the Russian mini-stove “Housekeeper”

This is one of the variations of a mini brick oven. The housekeeper stove is different in that it has 2 combustion chambers of different sizes. The top of the structure is equipped with a vault and a slab. The 1x1.5 m design includes 33-34 brick rows.

The features of its construction are as follows:

In the 1st row, correct bandaging of the material is important for strength.
On rows 2-5, the construction of blower channels is necessary.
In the 6th row, cover the chambers with grates.
On the 7-9th row of the housekeeper, build the main firebox using wood, then start building the firebox.
At 10-12 rows, close the channels, install the stove and proceed to the walls of the furnace and the arch of the main chamber.
Complete the bundle of walls with rows 15 and 16.
On the 17th row, lay a 3x3 cm steel corner. You will need to form a hilo along it and move to the base of the chimney.
On rows 16-18, build a furnace arch. Pour sand into the arch.
Use a double brick to cover the next rows.
When laying the 20-25th row, do not forget about the formation of ventilation ducts.

Ordering the Emshanov mini oven

This is one of the variations of the wood-burning housekeeper. Its advantage is uniform heating of the side walls. Such a housekeeper stove is built with your own hands from rubble ceramic bricks M100. Two vertical symmetrical caps corresponding to the height of the entire structure are laid out inside. The firebox is formed from fireclay ШБ-5.

With water heating box

This modification of the Russian housekeeper stove is distinguished by a prefabricated flue gas assembly. To do this, use coaxial stainless steel pipes with thick machines.

This insert has several meanings:

flue gases will not leak into the room;
the thermal load on the chimney will decrease;
When using low-quality firewood, soot will collect on the insert.

The space turns out to be small, so for a water tank of 20-30 liters you need to make a niche in the side of the stove wall. The cavity is laid out on 5-8 rows near the main firebox. The container is built into it.

It is important to build a separate channel for combustion products and fence off the container with a partition so that its walls do not burn out. The tank can be replaced with a stainless steel coil

Russian "teplushka" with a couch 127 x 166 cm

The design and principle of operation of this stove are similar to the previous heat source. The difference is in size, power and some design features. There are also 3 modes available here - winter, summer and Russian fire. The heat output is 4.5 kW, the heated area is 45-50 m².

In winter mode, firewood can be burned on the grate of the furnace or in the firebox - the gases will still flow through the lower passages and warm up the entire stove

The size of the stove in plan is 1270 x 1660 mm plus 10 cm for the projection of the foundation. The height of the front part is 210 cm, the height of the bed is 147 cm. Set of materials for construction:

refractory bricks ША-8 – 26 pcs.;
red solid brick – 995 pcs. (the chimney is not included in the specified quantity);
fireclay block type ШБ-94 – 1 pc.;
main door installed at the mouth - 41 x 25 cm;
ash pan door 14 x 25 cm, firebox door – 21 x 25 cm;
2 grates with dimensions 240 x 415 and 220 x 325 mm;
stove 71 x 41 cm (2 burners);
chimney damper type ZV-5, size 260 x 240 x 455 mm;
2 valves 130 x 250 mm;
sheet steel 2 mm thick;
galvanized reinforcing mesh – 1.5 lm (mesh 30 x 30, wire 1 mm in diameter);
template for forming an arch, radius – 322.5, length – 645 mm;
circled under the arch of the main firebox with a radius of 60 and a length of 77 cm;
corrugated packaging cardboard, kaolin wool.

This is what a large “Teplushka” with a power of 4.5 kW looks like.
Preparatory work - installation of a reliable foundation. Keep in mind that after pouring the foundation, the formwork can be removed after 3-4 days (during the warm period), and the stove can be built only after 2 weeks. The base area is covered with waterproofing - roofing felt folded in half.

How to properly lay out a full-size “Teplushka”:

Row No. 1 is continuous, consisting of 65 ceramic bricks. On the second tier, we begin to form the walls of the furnace and support columns, and install the door of the ash chamber. We install 8 stones on a poke without mortar and cut them to the height of the 3rd row. We do not connect it with the rest of the masonry - these will be cleaning hatches.
We place the third tier according to the diagram, on the 4th we cover the ash pan. On the 5th row, we begin to build the walls of the firebox from refractory, insert a grate 415 x 240 mm.
Rows 6 and 7 continue to be laid according to the pattern, fireclay stones are placed on the edge. After the formation of the 7th tier, we install the firebox door and the summer valve installed vertically. Rows 8-9 are built according to the order.
On the 10th tier we cover the floodplain and cover the upper ends of the refractory bricks with kaolin wool. The front part of the chamber must be covered with fireclay block ШБ-94 or similar. We begin to reinforce the walls of the furnace with galvanized wire mesh, then we arrange a re-covering of red bricks (row 11).
On the finished 11th tier we insert the stove and grate bars of the main chamber - the furnace. We make level No. 12 according to the order and install a large door. Then we lay out the 13th tier and arch using a circle.
We build rows 14-17 according to the drawings, raising the outer walls of the furnace, the smoke channel and the front partition of the furnace. Next we lay an arched vault R = 60 cm made of wedge bricks. We continue to build tiers 18 and 19 according to the diagrams.
In the twentieth row we block the front arch and raise the outer walls higher. We fill the void above the vault with a solution of clay and sand. After drying, we build tier 21 - the plane of the bed.
Tiers 22-32 make up the front section of the stove, where the chimney is combined with the side flue. We line up the rows according to the diagrams, on the 24th level we install 2 valves, on the 29th level we place a sheet of metal covering the stove.

The expert will give step-by-step instructions for building a Russian multifunctional stove in his video:

Stove with stove and stove bench, its dimensions

The main distinguishing feature of such a device is the large dimensions of the furnace. In order for an adult to fit on the floors, the length of the entire structure must exceed two meters and the width one and a half meters. The bed itself is located above an elongated furnace, which ensures a constant flow of heat.

Previously, in traditional models, the floors were located under the ceiling, at a height of about 1.8 m, and were climbed onto them using an attached ladder.

This ensured longer preservation of heat - when the hut cooled down in the morning, on the floors, due to the distance from the floor, the temperature was still quite high.

Nowadays, the bed is placed at a comfortable level of about one meter, because modern materials have better thermal insulation of the house.

Reference. In previous years, a high furnace was traditionally built - in addition to heating functions, it was used as a home mini-bath, so it had to accommodate a person, which also influenced the height of the floors.

The scheme, which includes both a hob and a bed, remains the most common. To build such a structure, lightweight schemes have been developed that even a not very experienced builder can handle. The disadvantage of such a stove will be the reduced efficiency of heating the room compared to other models.

Nuances of the stove design

It is advisable to make the outer part of the chimney from sand-lime brick. It is more resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. After laying the chimney, fittings that have not yet been installed (cast iron hob, etc.) are installed.

If the goal is simple brickwork, then you can get by with simple cleaning and alignment of the seams. If your plans include decorating a wood-burning stove, you don’t need to pay attention to the joints. Typically, such structures are decorated with heat-resistant ceramic tiles. For example, tiles or clinker.

The first option is preferable from the point of view of heat transfer. The tiles are characterized by a box-shaped back shape, which increases the thermal efficiency of the coating.

Figure 7. Stove lined with tiles

For those who do not want to deal with tiles, but want to somehow decorate the structure, we can recommend painting the stove with heat-resistant paint. You can decorate in a traditional Russian ornamental style.

Advantages of a Russian stove with a stove bench for a country house

A full-fledged Russian stove is multifunctional; it is used:

for heating the house;
for cooking food;
as a sleeping place;
for the effective treatment of a number of diseases.

The heat transfer of the device reaches 75-80%; in terms of this indicator, the device can only be compared with gas boilers running on mains fuel.

The heat generated by a Russian stove does not dry out the air, does not burn oxygen and is evenly distributed throughout all rooms. Due to the high heat capacity of the materials, a comfortable temperature in the house is maintained for up to 12 hours after the last installation of firewood.

A sound and restful sleep on a stove bed gives strength and helps fight colds. With rheumatism, radiculitis and other diseases of the musculoskeletal system, the pain recedes almost immediately. The device not only feeds and warms, it also heals!

The device is easy to use. It can be heated with firewood, wood waste, coal, or pressed materials in briquettes, the cost of which is usually low.

The service life of the device is practically unlimited. A Russian stove adds color to the interior of any home; even in a modern cottage it will become the center of attention and a place around which company will gather for a pleasant pastime.

Important! The building also has its drawbacks, these include the need to procure raw materials for heating

Continuing traditions

A traditional stove with a brick stove bench is a complex heating device with an element for relaxation or household use - a deck chair.

This modern stove will add variety to your interior.

Benefits of the bed:

Rest and keep warm . After walking in the cold air in winter, such a warm “bed” will delicately restore body temperature, eliminate chills, and prevent colds.
Health . The heat emanating from the bricks relaxes muscles, has a beneficial effect on the musculoskeletal system, and calms the nervous system. The relaxing effect cannot be overestimated. Our ancestors also used a hearth with a bed for healing purposes. All known diseases were treated with it - from colds to radiculitis.
Drying berries, herbs, mushrooms . The lounger provides a slow release of heat, due to which the supplies lose moisture gradually, maintaining maximum useful properties.
Increased efficiency . An additional structural element in the form of a lounger is heated by the stove and slowly releases additional heat to the room.

Mortar for laying the stove

The thinness and elasticity of the composition and the absence of cracks after drying are important. You can use a ready-made mixture from the store or make it yourself. For this you need purified clay. It needs to be soaked in water, and after a day kneaded with sand - first, several variations of the solution are made for testing, changing the proportions. From each they form cakes, 1 cm thick. After 2-3 days they are examined - where there are fewer cracks, the composition is better.

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To ensure uniformity of the clay, after soaking it is wiped through a mesh with 0.5 cm cells. When preparing the solution for the firebox, it is better to replace ordinary sand with fireclay powder. Mix it with clay 1:3(4).

Materials

Brick

The masonry of the Russian stove is made of red ceramic brick. The brick must be well fired and of the highest quality - dense, smooth. A burnt brick (with a dark interior if broken) is absolutely unusable. Hollow brick is also not suitable: heat will not spread well throughout the body of the stove, its interior will overheat and the whole stove will soon begin to fall apart.

You need to select the bricks for the hearth especially carefully: they must be even, smooth, and exactly the same height. In the old days, stove makers selected hearth bricks from purchased lots and stored them separately. Nowadays, the underside can be ironed after laying with a grinder with a bowl-shaped circle. In theory, this will not make the oven worse, but there is no experimental data.

The lining of the stove and the top row of the stove bench can be made of face bricks and lime mortar. Then the floors will never fail, and finishing the stove will not cause difficulties - masonry on clay with widened seams (see

below) although heat-resistant, it is not very strong and smooth, and the plaster and tiles do not hold up well on it

Solution

The masonry mortar for a Russian stove is not quite ordinary; What is important here is the combination of heat resistance, high heat capacity and TKR equal to brick. The composition of the solution is as follows:

Carefully sifted the fattest clay you can find - 3 parts by volume.
Sifted and calcined river sand – 3-5 parts by volume.
Pure water – 1 part by volume.

The solution should also be very fatty - thick, viscous. His condition is checked with two boards; A ball of fresh solution the size of a tennis ball is squeezed between them. A thin solution will crack immediately; average at about 1/3 compression, and good at half compression. A solution that is too soft and fluid is also not suitable; sand must be added to it, but not more than 2:1 relative to clay.

Good clay for laying stoves was once a serious problem. Now the structure of the Russian stove is being simplified: ready-made dry mixtures for laying stoves and, separately, fatty clay are on sale.

When drying, the greasy solution often cracks. In this case, the cracks are covered with a medium or thin clay mortar, but in no case with lime, gypsum or cement.

Masonry of a Russian stove

Before work, it is important to study the designs of Russian stoves. There are different options, so the masonry scheme may differ

The drawings cannot be changed - the specified order must be strictly followed.

Complete tightness is important for the safety of the structure. This is ensured by the following points:

Use quality stone. There shouldn't be any cracks.
The seams between the rows are 0.5-0.8 cm thick.
Do not coat the inner walls with clay - soot will be deposited on them, and therefore thermal conductivity will decrease.
Different departments differ in the thickness of the masonry from ¼ of the thickness of the brick to its full length.
If the brick is ceramic, then it needs to be soaked to prevent moisture from being absorbed from the mortar.

Brick oven laying

The furnace is built as bricks are laid. Construction begins with laying directly on the sand. We check the horizontalness of our base with a level. If there are any irregularities, we eliminate them, otherwise there will be difficulties in removing exhaust gases.

Next, we apply a layer of clay to the first brick row and install a blower door, which we must wrap with cord or asbestos cardboard. The door must be secured with galvanized wire; it is of high hardness and can be slightly melted to make it workable.

Next, the laying of the second row of bricks begins, and the third row is laid from fireclay refractory bricks and a grate is installed. This is followed by the laying of the fourth row, but with bricks placed on edge.

It should be noted that the bricks of the back wall must be laid without clay. Next, we install the furnace door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord and this must be done so that the door opens from the bottom up. We also secure the door with wire and fix it temporarily with two bricks. During work, the angles should be checked with a rod or plumb line. There should be no material left on the inner walls and the brick should be free of chips.

The masonry of the stove can be different: there is undercut masonry, and there is empty seams. When laying using the first method, the stove is not then plastered, since the solution fills all the seams.

Then we move on to the fifth row, here we lay the brick along the contour of the previous row, but flat. The sixth row is laid again on the edge. We lay the seventh row flat, but we make the back wall from two rows of bricks placed on edge. The furnace door is closed by the eighth row. Beveled bricks are installed here. This is necessary so that the flame moves to the center of the burner if the stove is used as a fireplace.

The masonry of the ninth row of bricks, on the contrary, is laid with a slight offset back. This is necessary in order to support the door. In front of the ninth row of bricks, it is imperative to lay out a moistened asbestos cord. It ensures tightness of joints.

Finally, the construction of the chimney begins when laying the tenth row. Next, the masonry of the eleventh row - we install a valve, seal it with an asbestos cord, previously coated with clay. Each subsequent row of bricks is laid out only after the previous one has been completely completed, checking the laying level. The construction of the furnace is now complete.

Particular attention is paid to the corners - the rest of the work depends on the correctness of their layout. Next you need to whitewash the oven. A special solution is prepared, to which milk and blue are added.

This is necessary so that our stove does not turn yellow over time and does not become shallow. It is necessary to carefully whitewash all joints of the brick surface, pipes, and slabs. You should first cover all metal parts and walls of the house with polyethylene so as not to stain them

A special solution is prepared, to which milk and blue are added. This is necessary so that our stove does not turn yellow over time and does not become shallow. It is necessary to carefully whitewash all joints of the brick surface, pipes, and slabs. You should first cover all metal parts and walls of the house with polyethylene so as not to stain them

Next you need to whitewash the oven. A special solution is prepared, to which milk and blue are added. This is necessary so that our stove does not turn yellow over time and does not become shallow. It is necessary to carefully whitewash all joints of the brick surface, pipes, and slabs. You should first cover all metal parts and walls of the house with polyethylene so as not to stain them.

We remember that we laid the very first layer of brick on sand. But to prevent sand from spilling out from under the brick, you should put a pre-furnace sheet and close the gap between the floor and the first row of masonry. Next, you should nail the baseboard. It is needed not only for the beauty of the design of the stove at home, but also serves to prevent sand from spilling out.

Do it yourself or order work

Does it make sense to take on such complex work yourself? How much does the work of an experienced and reliable stove-maker cost? If 100% of the cost of materials, as is customary in general construction work, then it is not that expensive.

By no means, not twice as much against the material. You can come across offers to build a stove for 20,000 rubles, but this is obvious nonsense. Let's try to figure it out ourselves.

Russian stove with stove

A stove maker works in mid-latitudes for six months, and always with an apprentice. Considering their employment at 100% of working time, the salary of a master at 25,000 rubles, and an assistant at 15,000, and the work completion time is 7 working days (this is a completely realistic period), we find that a simple stove will cost no less than 45,000 rubles, and a Russian stove with a stove and water heater (see figure) at 55,000-60,000 rubles.

But in a week it will be possible to heat it. There is only one condition: the master must tell where, when and to whom he has already installed the stoves, and they must be inspected personally. Good masters always stock up on recommendations, and if they hesitate and mumble, it’s better to turn to someone else.

Installation process

If you nevertheless decide to lay the furnace with your own hands, then familiarize yourself with the features and technology of carrying out the main work. This will help you complete the process correctly and avoid mistakes during installation. According to experts, many are able to complete all stages of construction without outside help.

Foundation and foundation

It is very important to take care of constructing a reliable foundation for a brick structure. It must withstand heavy loads and not sag under them

The lower part of the oven is reserved for baking and remains free. It is convenient to store household supplies and kitchen utensils there. Concrete slabs or steel beams in combination with brick are chosen as the floor for the oven.

Due to the high fire danger, the use of wooden supports is not recommended, but is not prohibited. If you still cannot replace such material with anything, do not forget about antiseptic wood treatment. Otherwise, the ceiling may be damaged by insects.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the seams and their correct processing. They should look neat after applying the cement mortar.

External walls are plastered with conventional mixtures intended for interior decoration.

Brick walls are laid parallel to each other in two rows on top of the foundation, observing the alignment. In the third row, a door for the blower is installed. Next, the masonry continues, and doors for cleaning the firebox are installed in the fifth row, and lining is also performed (internal lining made of refractory bricks). The next row will require installation of a grate.

In the seventh row we form blind channels, thanks to which we will get a warm place for the bed. Here we install the furnace door. Then you need to create channels (lowering and rising). Up to the eleventh row, the whole process is repeated, and only in this row the combustion door is closed and suction channels are formed (from the heil to the side channel, from the firebox to the riser and two transitions between the blind chambers).

Next, the suction channels are blocked and the formation of the caps (blind channels) is completed. In the thirteenth row, it is necessary to complete the lining and shut off the fuel chamber. The next layer of masonry consists of floors.

Starting from the sixteenth row, it is necessary to form a vertical channel (smoke) and a partition for protection from fire. This process lasts until the twenty-second row, in which the chimney valve is installed. Now all that remains is to lay out the chimney and you can move on to the decorative finishing, thanks to which the Russian stove with a warm stove bench, created by yourself, will organically fit into your interior.

Design of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Dimensions of a classic stove: width about one and a half meters (two arshins); length - just over two meters (three arshins); the bed was placed at a height of approximately human height - approximately 180 centimeters (or two and a half arshins), the height of the hearth was approximately 45 cm, the height of the hearth was taken equal to the height of the table.

The stove was erected on a foundation made of small fragments of brick, stones, or less often on a log foundation (oak, pine and other species). The structure was erected at the same time as the house, but their foundations are by no means built together; isolation is a must. The oven itself was built either from baked bricks or from adobe (in those families where income did not allow the use of red brick for construction). The first “dymnitsa” (chimneys) were made of wood, then, due to the fire hazard of the material, wood was replaced with stone and brick.

Furnace design: furnace - firebox, place where fuel combustion occurs; pole and sub-rack - auxiliary table for dishes and a niche under it; under – the bottom of the firebox; hailo - a hole for releasing smoke into the hut; oven - space for storing firewood; mouth - a hole for storing firewood, closed with a flap.

What is a Dutch oven?

Dutch ovens are a category of solid fuel stoves designed for heating small houses.

If you look at a photo of a Dutch oven, it cannot be confused with any other oven.

Of course, this is not an ideal option for heating a home, but it has its advantages and disadvantages.

Let's take a closer look at them, as well as the history of this type of stove.

How to build a Russian stove with your own hands: ordering and step-by-step laying

If you have not previously encountered bricklaying, and have only theoretical ideas about construction, you should not start creating a device.

For work you will need a level, a plumb line, a trowel, a rule and a square with a tape measure.

Photo 5. Option for arranging a Russian stove with a stove bench and tiles for cooking. Contains 24 stages.

First, a layer of waterproofing is laid, the perimeter of the base of the device is laid out on it, all parameters are checked, and the order is carried out according to the diagram drawn on paper.

Reference. Each brick needs to be kept in a bucket of water for a while for better adhesion to the mortar. During work, you must constantly check that geometric proportions are observed. There is no need to rush; if difficulties arise, you can involve a knowledgeable person; the opinion of an experienced stove maker will always come in handy.

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The first continuous row is laid out, chipped bricks are placed in the corners to ensure the ligation of the rows. Next come the internal walls, as well as the arched opening for the heating. From the 5th row a semicircular arch is formed; formwork will be required here.

Further rows of sidewalls consist of brick halves. Rows 11 and 12 complete the formation of the base. The vault goes up to the 20th row. 21 and subsequent rows are the basis of the bed. In the 26th row a door is installed, in the 32nd row a damper is installed, and above the place for joining the chimney is indicated.

Modern bed

In different houses, according to the wealth of the family, the stoves differed from each other. But this was only an external difference. In addition to size, the difference could also be seen in the exterior decoration. Due to the lack of expensive materials, the outside of the stove was finished with clay and whitewash.

In the age of informatization of society, ancient household items are being introduced quite firmly. The modernized stove began to look like a fireplace with a stove bench, and modern technologies have made this device effective for all its purposes.

The construction of a brick fireplace comes down to the implementation of a sequential masonry scheme. Experienced stove makers know it by heart, but a novice master should always keep it at hand. Finding the diagram will not be a problem, including in our article. She talks in detail about how the stove bench should be made so that the heat from the fireplace heats not only the room, but also the elements of the stove.

Ordinary masonry of the stove

After preparing the base and familiarizing yourself with the drawings, you can move on

It is important to strictly follow the order indicating the correct position of the bricks and installation of stove fittings

With stove and bed

If you plan to bake a stove with your own hands, then the simple procedure looks like this:

Make a continuous and even row.
Lay out the internal compartments, design the cleaning channels and ash pan chamber.
Place the door of the blower and cleaning chamber. Secure them with steel wire, placing the ends in the seams.
Close the vault, block the entrances to the channels, form holes and decorate the ceiling of the bottom channel from the inside.
Fix the grate in a large firebox. Carry out the internal masonry without mortar; it is better to use fireclay, cutting it in half in thickness. Place the door on the small firebox.
Install the hot water tank.
Place the grate on the small firebox and the door on the large firebox. Stretch the right wall with a strip of steel. There is no need for mortar behind a large firebox.
Install and secure the small firebox door. Continue to output internal channels.
This row is combined with the previous one.
Lay out the bottom of the furnace, combine the combustion vaults. Bring the channel holes into the chamber and close the water heating tank.
At the edge of the masonry, secure a 5x5 cm metal corner between the fireboxes. Cover the space of the large firebox behind the stove with a grate. There is no need to secure it.
Form the chimney and the walls of the furnace. Install a damper on the left.
Continue the algorithm.
Form an entrance to the chimney. It will be opened by a valve (vertical). Remove the walls of the furnace and make a hole for the damper.
Begin to narrow the masonry, blocking the roof of the chamber. Proceed with the removal of the chimney.
Reinforce the walls with strips of metal.
Secure the back wall with a strip of metal. Narrow the chamber vault further and prepare to lay the vault. Above the niche with the slab, lay a corner and a strip of metal - the basis for the masonry that creates the ceiling.
Lay out the outer walls and roof of the furnace in the shape of a dome. You can install a template or weld an arch from strips of metal.
Strengthen the wall above the entrance to the chamber with a strip of metal and surround the roof of the furnace with walls.
Pour sand and compact it.
Proceed to the base of the bed. Lay a sand embankment and narrow the slit in front.
Narrow the overpipe and install a panel with a circular hole to change the direction of the smoke.
Install the cleaning window door.
Install the draft control valve.
Continue to cover the space.
Work according to the algorithm.
Combine the overpipe and chimney on rows 27-29. Lay out the chimney before starting to form the groove. In the place where the chimney passes the attic floor, use cement mortar.

When the pipe is brought to the roof, make an otter - an extension above the roof in the form of an overlap. Close the gaps between the roof and the chimney with waterproofing.

The Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench is multifunctional. It gives warmth, they cook food on it, and they rest on top. Any things will dry on it instantly.

With a stove for a cauldron

Both the components and the masonry resemble a Russian stove with a fireplace and a stove bench. Refusal of the latter is beneficial due to the reduction in dimensions and a stove on which a large cauldron will fit. The order is:

Make a level and continuous base.
Install an ash chamber.
Secure the cleanout doors.
Place the grate.
Form a flood chamber.
Start lining the firebox.
Start building the walls.
Align the corners.
Align under.
Form a hailo.
Place the stove.
Build a combustion chamber.
Close the smoke duct.
Form the roof of a large firebox.
Build walls.
Continue the previous row.
Connect the walls with the arches.
Continue the row.
Insulate the furnace.
Take care of the general overlap.
Continue the algorithm.
Set the valves.
Install cleanout doors.
Continue the previous row.
Follow the algorithm.
Close the channel.
Form a chimney.
Install the valves.

All that remains is to build the pipe to the ceiling. Cover it with 2x1.5 bricks. To insulate the ceiling, non-combustible material is used - metal, asbestos.

You can build a stove with a firebox and a stove bench. In this case, the length of the combustion chamber is increased or an extension is built, inside of which there will be smoke channels.

Are you planning to build a Russian stove for yourself?

Not really

Order and foundation

Scheme of the order of the stove with a stove bench

The main stage of construction is the correct calculation of the necessary tools, building materials and fittings. The service life of the furnace and its environmental safety will depend on the accuracy of the drawing.

The foundation used in the construction of a Russian stove can be of several types:

rubble concrete, brick, consisting of reinforced concrete blocks with dimensions of 40 cm / 20 cm / 20 cm - or it can be monolithically reinforced.

The phased construction of the foundation of a Russian stove is as follows:

Proper digging of a pit for the foundation of the furnace with dimensions corresponding to the size of the furnace base, adding a margin of 20 cm on each side;
The filter pad, necessary for the proper functioning of the furnace, is created by placing a layer of wet sand at the bottom of the pit. The sand is compacted until it stops settling;
Three sequentially compacted layers are laid on top of it - crushed stones and medium-sized pieces of broken brick, a thin layer of sand. The entire cushion is covered with a 10-centimeter horizon of crushed stone, which is also compacted as strongly as possible.
Crushed stone must be covered with a layer of waterproofing consisting of tarpaulin or roofing felt;
Plywood formwork is installed in the foundation pit itself. Here, a “spare” distance between the formwork and the foundation pit, about 10 cm wide, is useful. To prevent wood or plywood from drawing moisture out of the solution, the boards are moistened and reinforced with supports;
5 cm of cement mortar is poured into the formwork, and when it dries, a metal mesh is knitted under strict geometric evenness. In this case, the ends of the rods should not reach 1–2 cm from the formwork;
A standard concrete solution is mixed, which includes cement, sand and crushed stone in proportions 1: 3: 5 - in several layers. Each layer is compacted using a vibrating press or manually. Here, ideal evenness of the pouring is required, checked and controlled according to the building level, on which the durability of the future furnace depends.
The poured stove foundation is covered with a layer of waterproofing and left until completely dry.

The next stage is the most difficult process of constructing a Russian stove with a stove bench - specific row masonry. It can be easily handled by a professional stove maker, but a novice builder may encounter certain difficulties, so it is worth briefly considering all levels of brickwork.

General dimensions of the stove with a stove bench

Laying out the first row is the most critical stage in the construction of the stove; the stability and strength of the future structure depend on it. The laying of trenches - double-row brick walls - occurs at small intervals under the continuous control of the building level. The second row is laid out in the same way, and in the next - third - the blower door is installed.

The fourth row is laid in the same way as the third, observing the correct bandaging of the seams - on this row the level of the masonry is compared with the height of the door. Three doors used for cleaning the oven are also installed here.

In the fifth row, the ash door is closed, and the horizontal channels of the firebox and lining are laid. The next row also involves the construction of the lining; the level of the masonry is compared with the height of the cleaning doors. Now the grate is being installed.

Actually, the construction of the lining continues until the thirteenth row. On the seventh row, lowering, lifting and blind channels (caps) are created. In the 10-11th row, the installation of the combustion chamber door occurs and overlaps. Four channels are also formed here for air suction, the hilo and its blind channel.

On the 12th row, the lining begins to form a vault, the formation of the firebox continues, and the blind channels are closed and the suction channels are blocked.

Row 13 finally blocks all channels and the fuel chamber.

The 14th row continues to create an overlap, the 15th row forms an entrance vertical channel, and a side is arranged. From rows 16 to 20, a vertical chimney pipe is assembled; on row 21, a damper is installed.

Now you should familiarize yourself with good tips on how to build a stove with a stove bench with your own hands.

The nuances of drying a lined stove

The laid oven should dry well.

There are several nuances:

drying is necessary even before the construction of the chimney;
You cannot fully heat the stove right away - there is a risk of loss of tightness and the appearance of streaks;
drying should be natural for at least 10 days, with doors and valves open;
The first times you need to heat it carefully - use little wood, open the smoke valves and close the fireboxes;
For 1-1.5 weeks, the stove is heated every day, starting with 3-4 kg of firewood and increasing their amount daily by 1-1.5 kg;
a full-fledged firebox is permitted when, after 2 hours from the start of the firebox, there is no condensation at all on the metal elements.

Tips to help you at work

If you decide to do the assembly yourself, we recommend taking the following useful tips as a basis to help you organize and carry out the work:

Brick fireplace stoves for summer cottages must have the same thickness of seams in all areas (4-6 millimeters);
The evenness of the first row is checked both using a standard level and in a diagonal direction;
Before you start laying the next row, additionally check the evenness of the previous one. To do this, use a protractor. The horizontal is checked using a building level, and the vertical is checked using a plumb line;
If you plan to install a hob, to better fix it and protect the brick from constant overheating, apply a large layer of fresh clay mixture (about 5-7 millimeters) to it;
In order for the heating unit to have good draft, the device is equipped with a summer operation. Thus, the removal of gases and all decomposition products will be carried out in a short way;
A stove with a fireplace for a brick cottage should be laid out starting from the corner in each row;
The joints of the previous row must be covered with bricks of the next one;
The cross-section of the chimney and smoke collector always have the same diameter and shape.

Small shelves are suitable for drying berries

Small shelves are suitable for drying berries, fruits, plants, and also have a decorative function

Brick kilns can be equipped with

Brick stoves can be equipped with a purchased metal or cast iron hearth

In order to increase efficiency and heating speed

In order to increase efficiency and heating speed, the design can be equipped with several hearths

For a detailed visual acquaintance with the preparatory stage of work and useful recommendations for the construction and selection of a brick fireplace for your summer cottage, you can also watch the video in this article.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=_VU5gnzsNUE

Russian stove in the house: pros and cons

It is important to consider the advantages and disadvantages of the design

It has many advantages:

the heat flow is characterized by low density, and the heating surface area is very large, therefore the heat is always soft, the air does not dry out, and the effect has a healing effect;
a well-designed and built Russian stove ensures a warm rest on the stove bench, even when the temperature in the house is low;
part of the heat flows is transferred to the foundation and adjacent soil layers, drying them - the risk of swelling and subsequent deformation is reduced;
with good heating, the heat lasts for several days, so after a long working day or several days of absence the owner will not freeze in the house;
food cooked on a stove has a special taste and aroma - even simple dishes become tastier;
There are several fuel options - firewood, straw, peat, reeds, dung.

This structure is well suited for houses where people live permanently.

Its main disadvantages include:

costs of materials - for a similar amount you can build a fireplace and 2 Dutch stoves;
long heating - it takes 3-4 hours, and the room warms up to maximum 2-2.5 times longer;
a complex device, this applies to smoke channels, combustion chamber, vault layout.

The size of the modern Russian stove has become more modest. Today they prefer more compact designs with a stove, often abandoning beds. For clarity, before construction, you can make a model from boxes with your own hands. Previously, the structure did not warm up below. Flooding solved the problem. The Russian stove with heating is attractive due to its uniform heating and the possibility of partial kindling on non-cold days.

Main types

Depending on the purposes performed, there are several stoves that are equipped with a stove bench. They will be discussed further.

Stove "Swedish"

This model is equipped with a special shield that acts as a heater. It contains vertical and horizontal gas channels. Smoke spreads through these pipes, which subsequently heats all the elements of the furnace. Thanks to this circumstance, it is possible to heat the room evenly. During operation, efficiency increases and fuel is consumed slowly.

Additional Information! The Swede is small in size. Therefore, the stove mechanism can be installed in almost any room. We are also pleased with the operational efficiency that is achieved thanks to the smoke exhaust system.

Russian stove

This building is of impressive size. It will require a lot of space to install it. A correctly installed mechanism does an excellent job of maintaining heat for several hours. This goal is achieved thanks to the cooking chamber, which is located deep in the stove. Some models are equipped with special smoke dampers. These elements perfectly protect the room from the spread of smoke.

Important! The Russian stove with a stove bench is equipped with additional elements for cooking. For this purpose, a wooden slab is installed on it.

Cast iron stove-fireplace

A fireplace stove with a stove bench is regularly improved. These devices are long-burning mechanisms that do an excellent job of performing their functions. The air temperature level remains unchanged for five hours after the first laying.

A fireplace stove for a summer residence is equipped with a chamber in which fuel is burned. Thanks to hermetic doors, the smoldering process of firewood is more efficient. In this case, the carbon dioxide that is formed during combustion does not escape. Flue gases are directed to the combustion chamber. As a result of all processes, a large amount of heat is generated.

Note! A fireplace stove is more efficient than other types of stoves with a stove bench. Some models have a hob. With its help you can easily cook or reheat food.

Laying a Russian stove: technology and construction tips

In order to build a simple Russian stove you will need from 1.5 to 2 thousand bricks. The bricks are laid in rows. A standard stove includes 25-31 rows (excluding the chimney).

It is better to lay the first row of the stove with waterproof, heated bricks. The walls of the furnace are one brick thick, and the front part of the cooking surface is half as thick. Wood formwork is usually placed in the oven opening. When laying the vaults of the oven and furnace, it is best to use wedge-shaped bricks. They can be easily made with your own hands, since production involves processing ordinary bricks.

How to fold a stove: step-by-step laying, photo

Step-by-step instructions for laying furnace elements:

Sub-bake. Not all types of stoves have a firewood drying compartment. You can use reheated brick for it. An arch is installed above the oven using a special arc-shaped formwork (which is best made collapsible).

Photo 6. Finished brick oven. Used for storing firewood and other materials.

Firebox. It is installed on the ceiling (arch); fireclay bricks are used for its laying.
Under. The bottom of the combustion chamber is often made inclined towards the hearth. For this, a backfill of clay and sand is used.
Crucible. This element is the most difficult when laying a stove. Its walls should be as smooth as possible. They are erected at a slight slope from hewn fireclay bricks. The furnace ends with an arch - the mouth, where a damper is later installed.

Photo 7. The process of building a crucible, it is the most difficult to build. Used directly to start a fire.

Firebox vault. Like the arch of the oven, it is made using special formwork. The width is half a brick. The surface of the firebox roof should be as smooth as possible. To ensure the strength of the vault, each middle brick of the row is hewn in the shape of a wedge.
Six. The compartment in front of the cooking chamber consists of a base, a wall with an arch and side walls, as well as a vault with a chimney opening. It is laid out from ceramic bricks at the same time as the crucible.
Reroof. Upper part of the oven. The masonry is made of brick in 3 rows. To comply with fire safety rules, the distance from the ceiling to the ceiling of the room must be at least 35 cm.
Chimney. It is laid out especially carefully; its internal walls should not have protrusions to avoid the danger of soot accumulation. The seams should be tight and without cracks.

Photo 8. Sequential diagram of the order of the chimney for the stove. Contains seven stages.

As the furnace is being built, dampers and doors are installed, which are purchased in advance. After the masonry is completed, the stove is usually treated with a special heat-resistant putty or plaster to better seal the seams.

Construction techniques

Opeche

The wooden guard supports a stove weighing up to 1600 pounds (approximately 750 kg), i.e. small or medium without baking. It is made in the form of a log house with two belts, backfilled with rubble and a flooring made of beams. The flooring is covered with felt, properly soaked in a liquid solution of fatty clay, and roofing iron is applied over it.

Arches and vaults

Arches and vaults are laid out from an ODD number of bricks on formwork on wooden templates - circles. First, a life-size cross-sectional drawing of the arch is made, then the castle bricks are hemmed onto the wedge. A do-it-yourselfer need not try to lay out a vault with a direct lock or without a lock; not every experienced mason can do this.

Next, the circles are prepared taking into account the thickness of the formwork boards and the vault is laid on them without a lock. Then you need to thickly lubricate the grooves of the locks with the solution and insert the locks into the groove. The next stage is to gradually hammer the locks into place one by one and in several passes. You can't get by with a mallet; you have to use a log. But you can’t beat like crazy; you need to use the inertia of a heavy log, and not the force of a sharp blow.

The quality of the vault closure is controlled by squeezing out the mortar sausages from the seams: it should be more or less uniform over the entire surface. The thick solution flows slowly, so you need to take breaks between passes. The result is a prestressed structure; Only such a vault will last for many decades.

Material consumption

The classic Russian stove described above, depending on the size, requires approximately the following amount of materials:

Small - 1500 bricks and 0.8 cubic meters. m of solution.
Average - 2100 bricks and 1.1 cubic meters. m of solution.
Large - 2500 bricks and 1.35 cubic meters. m of solution.

Possible difficulties

When building it yourself and lacking experience, it’s easy to make some mistakes:

Use of low-quality materials - cheap bricks often have defects or crack when heated to high temperatures.
If you do not soak the brick before construction, it will draw moisture from the mortar, which will lead to uneven drying and deterioration of the strength and tightness of the masonry.
The seams between the bricks are filled unevenly and not tightly enough - this later leads to a violation of the seal.

To avoid these and other mistakes, before starting work, it is better to seek advice from an experienced specialist.

Stove order

In order for the stove to work correctly, you must lay it out according to the diagram described below.

The first 2 rads are solid, since they are the foundation. Lay them out horizontally with red bricks (RK).
Row three you will already lay out the base for the vertical channels, the ash chamber with a door and the bottom heating compartment. Carry out QC laying, use refractory products to lay out the ash pit.
Row four continues with row three. Lay out the ashboard with fireclay bricks, and the rest of the parts with red bricks. The second and third channels in the 3rd and 4th rows need to be connected. A similar method is used for laying a stove with a stove bench.
Do row five from left to right. You complete the ash chamber and close the blower door. When installing the grille, keep in mind that the material will begin to expand when exposed to high temperatures. Leave a small gap (1.2-1.6 centimeters) between it and the masonry and fill it with sand. For the ash pan use ShK, for everything else use red.

Creating the fifth row

Row six: you are already starting to create the shopping center and the door for it. Install the oven. To separate the TV and the oven, use the ShK. Everything else is done from QC. From a U-shaped channel, create 3 vertical ones.
When laying out the 7th row of ShK, a firebox is set up.

Seventh row

Row 8: close the vertical channel and continue creating TC.
Row 9 is located at the top of the TC door. The bricks for this row need to be cut at the top and bottom so that the gas passes better from the firebox to the chimney pipe.
Creating the 10th row is a little more difficult. The bricks need to be hewn in the same way as in the previous case. There is no need to separate the TV and the oven. Constantly adjust the placement of the row with a level and place the hob on it. Do not forget to make a reserve (1.2-1.6 cm), since the iron will expand. Lay a metal corner of at least 4.5 * 4.5 centimeters flush with the outer wall of the stove.
When laying out the 11th row, you will already begin to form a cooking chamber (VC), so along the entire length, fill the hole that appears on the right with brick. When creating a series, use QC. If you install a removable door, the VK can perform the function of an oven.
For the 12th row, take KK. It will combine 2 left channels. 13 has the same order as the previous one, only the channel needs to be divided into 2 parts. 14 and 15 are laid out according to the same principle as the thirteenth.
When laying out the 16th row, you need to cover the VC with four corners. The masonry scheme is similar to the previous row.
Row 17 overlaps VK. For steam to escape, you need to leave a hole equal to half the brick.
When performing step 18, lay a safety corner that will strengthen the drying chambers (DC).
Row 19 - creating an extract from the VC and forming two SCs.
Rows 20 and 21 are performed according to the same pattern.
When performing the 22nd row, the pattern of the previous rows is repeated, only the smaller SC needs to be covered with a metal plate.
The 23rd row creates the SC, preparing the place for the valve on the VK hood.
The 24th row combines channels 1 and 2, and the 25th row combines the VK hood and the 3rd channel.
In the 26th row, cover the SC with a corner and lay the overlap along it. Cover the top with a mesh of reinforcement.
When performing row 27, cover the top of the stove without touching only the 3rd vertical channel. Increase the perimeter of the masonry by four centimeters. On the 28th row, form a side and again increase the perimeter by four centimeters.
Row 29 returns the masonry to its original size.
Laying out the 30th row, form a pipe, and make a hole in the oven for the valve. Then you need to make a pipe of the desired size. The masonry is vertical and plumb.
The final stage is laying out the last rows.

Slab order

Correct operation

To use the device correctly and safely, the following rules must be observed:

Carefully monitor the condition of the chimney and clean it from ash in a timely manner.
Before each kindling, check the quality of the draft - this will help prevent smoke from entering the room.
If the stove has not been used for a long time, a thorough inspection is carried out for damage and cracks.
You should not light a stove while intoxicated or very tired; it is not recommended to leave small children alone near a burning stove.

Precise construction and compliance with all operating rules will ensure high-quality operation of the stove, efficient heating of the house, and the preparation of delicious traditional dishes.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

A stove with a fireplace should be placed in the house so that its hob and firebox are directed towards the kitchen, and the fireplace faces the living space. It fits well between separate rooms.

In principle, it can be installed anywhere; if you do not plan to cook on the stove, then you can use it as a design element and decorate it with decorative material. It is better if the stove is planned during the construction of the house, it is easier to create a reliable foundation, because the mass of the entire structure is approximately 3 tons.

The Swedish stove with fireplace is shown in the diagrams:

Front view

Rear Sectional View #1

Section #2

Materials and tools

The required materials are presented below:

The materials used to prepare the masonry mortar are of great importance. Simple clay is not able to withstand high temperatures, you need to find fireclay clay. Anyone who wants to prepare it themselves needs to look for it in hollows near rivers or on their steep banks.

You need to prepare the tools in advance, of which you will need:

Master OK;
Rubber mallet and hammer-pick;
Twine and plumb line;
Rule;
Tape measure, pencil.

Lay out the oven

If you wish, you can download the project of a Swede with a fireplace by A.I. Ryazankina.

The order of the Swedish stove with a fireplace is presented below:

1-6 row 7-12 row 13-24 row 25-33 row

First of all, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove. After this, the laying begins in order (images above).

The first row of masonry must be placed on a waterproofing layer. In order for the masonry to be level, this affects the placement of the entire structure; markings must be made on a sheet of material for waterproofing - for this purpose, you will need a long ruler, a corner and white chalk. With the exact outlines of the future oven, it will be much easier to complete the work; according to the resulting markings, they begin to lay out the first row.

It is necessary to bandage the bricks. Check that the corners are laid out correctly and the structure is horizontal. These rows are necessary as the basis for the entire structure; you cannot make mistakes when laying them out. The rods on which the fireplace grate will rest must be walled into the masonry in the 2nd row.

How to more efficiently place a stove and fireplace in your home

Choosing a universal stove is not the first step for arrangement. Initially, you should select the optimal location in the house for the heater and calculate the required heat output.

One of the ideal places to locate a fireplace stove with a hob and oven should rightfully be considered the wall between the kitchen and the living room. The side of the fireplace located in the recreation room will warm residents on chilly evenings and create a romantic backdrop.

Stove-fireplace in the interior of a country house

If you need to heat three rooms, the option of moving the stove to the third room is suitable. This way, the firebox and cooktop will remain in the kitchen, the fireplace area will face the living room, and the side of the heater will be in the third room.

If you need to place the hearth in one room, then the fireplace insert must be located in the rest room and ensure it has good visibility. The hob must be in a convenient location, which requires close proximity to the kitchen. The location of the fireplace in relation to the hob, in this case, has different designs, for example, on the side or on the opposite side.

Wall-mounted fireplace stoves have both fireboxes on one side in most cases. This design makes it difficult to simultaneously cook food and admire an open fire, since approaching the hob will be difficult due to the heat of the open fire.