How to properly bleed air from a heating battery

Reasons for airing the system

There are several fairly common reasons that provoke the appearance of an air lock inside heating structures:

• depressurization that occurred during scheduled maintenance or repair work;
• improper flushing or pressure testing of the system followed by filling the water circuit with standard coolant;
• local violation of the integrity of pipelines and radiator batteries under negative external influences or as a result of maintenance and operating errors;
• in private households - the absence of a sufficient pipe slope and expansion tank in the installed system;
• reduced pressure level in the water supply system, filling the resulting voids with air;
• faulty condition of air intake elements;
• connection to the heating structure of a “warm floor” system with pipes of different heights;
• air suction through leaky seam joints and joint areas;
• low quality coolant, oversaturation with gases;
• replenishing the volume of thermal fluid by adding cold tap water.

One of the most common problems is the presence of errors and errors at the stage of creating design documentation or installing pipework.

Reasons for air entry

Let's look at the reasons why air locks occur:

1. In case of heating repairs.
2. In apartments it is quite difficult to de-air the pipes by immediately filling them with water.
3. This problem often occurs with heated floors, in cases where their lines are not completely horizontal.
4. The appearance of gas in water is always associated with an increase in its temperature. In autonomous heating systems, no air remains after a while, however, if the coolant is constantly renewed, the problem will appear again and again.

Installing air release valves

To remove air from heating, air vents are installed on radiators - manual and automatic air valves. They are called differently: bleeder, air vent, bleeder or air valve, air vent, etc. The essence does not change from this.

Mayevsky air valve

This is a small device for manually bleeding air from heating radiators. It is installed in the upper free radiator manifold. There are different diameters for different collector sections.

Manual air vent - Mayevsky tap

It is a metal disk with a conical through hole. This hole is closed with a cone-shaped screw. By unscrewing the screw a few turns, we allow the air to escape from the radiator.

Device for removing air from radiators

To facilitate air outlet, an additional hole was made perpendicular to the main channel. The air actually comes out through it. When deflating using a Mayevsky tap, point this hole upward. After this you can unscrew the screw. Unscrew it a few turns, but do not unscrew it too much. After the hissing stops, return the screw to its original position and move on to the next radiator.

When starting the system, it may be necessary to bypass all the air collectors several times until air stops escaping altogether. After this, the radiators should heat up evenly.

Automatic air release valve

These small devices are installed both on radiators and at other points in the system. They differ in that they allow you to bleed air in the heating system automatically. To understand the principle of operation, consider the structure of one of the automatic air valves.

The operating principle of the automatic release is as follows:

• In normal condition, the coolant fills the chamber by 70 percent. The float is at the top, pressing the rod.
• When air enters the chamber, the coolant is forced out of the housing and the float lowers.
• He presses the protrusion-flag on the nozzle, squeezing it out.
• The depressed jet opens a small gap, which is enough to allow the air that has accumulated in the upper part of the chamber to escape.
• As water comes out, the air vent body fills with water.
• The float rises, releasing the rod. It returns to its place due to the spring.

Various designs of automatic air valves operate on this principle. They can be straight or angular. They are placed at the highest points of the system and are present in the security group. They can be installed in identified problem areas - where the pipeline has an incorrect slope, which is why air accumulates there.

Instead of Mayevsky's manual taps, you can install an automatic drain for radiators. It is only slightly larger in size, but works automatically.

Automatic air release valve

Cleaning from salts

The main problem with automatic valves for venting air from the heating system is that the air outlet hole is often overgrown with salt crystals. In this case, either the air does not come out or the valve begins to “cry”. In any case, you need to remove it and clean it.

Automatic air vent disassembled

So that this can be done without stopping the heating, automatic air valves are installed in pairs with non-return valves. The check valve is installed first, followed by the air valve. If necessary, the automatic air collector for the heating system is simply unscrewed, disassembled (unscrew the lid), cleaned and reassembled. After this, the device is again ready to bleed air from the heating system.

Stub

It is not an easy task to bleed air from a heating battery if there is no air vent and a plug is installed instead. Before starting work, you should block the coolant access to the radiator.

Modern sectional batteries are equipped with top plugs. There is no need to completely remove the fitting. It is enough to carefully turn it slowly, making several turns, and wait until the air comes out. First, all adjacent surfaces should be protected with rags.

It is more difficult to ventilate an old cast-iron radiator, since usually the plug on it is securely fixed with tow and paint. Algorithm of actions:

1. Apply a little solvent to the connection between the fitting and the battery. Wait 10-20 minutes.
2. Place a bucket under the hole. Place rags on the floor.
3. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the plug (not completely) until air begins to escape.
4. Wrap the thread with sealing material and tighten the plug.

Bleeding air from an old cast iron radiator may require more effort

It is important to do everything carefully. If you do not turn off the water and remove the fitting completely, hot water under pressure will flow out of the hole.

You can determine that the air lock has been eliminated by assessing the temperature of the batteries. Sections that were previously cold should warm up.

Tap

Many old batteries have regular water taps. When you unscrew the valve, water begins to flow from the hole, and with it the accumulated air comes out. You may need to drain several buckets of liquid to remove all the excess gas.

To make the work easier, it is advisable to use a long flexible hose: attach one end to the tap, and lower the other end into the toilet. The valve must be opened as much as possible to ensure a high flow rate of water.

How to install and bleed

Now it’s worth figuring out how to install the Mayevsky tap.

Adapter for Mayevsky tap

This can be done simply and without calling a specialist. All that is necessary is to remove the plug on the side that is screwed into the radiator. After all, all that remains is to install the tap into the hole in the plug.

In a horizontal heating system, an air vent is mounted on each radiator.

On the heated towel rail, where a side connection is intended, a tee is attached. It is installed vertically, the tap hole must be directed away from the wall.

Installing a Mayevsky tap on a radiator is necessary if there are places in the heating system that are lower than the upper axis of the device connection. In this position, independent release of air is impossible.

In the future, local problems may arise due to air leakage into the system, which occurs during its operation, and the accumulation of air bubbles in the coolant.

It is imperative to remove air immediately after installing the heating system, since at the beginning of work, traffic jams in radiators can arise in any way. It is also necessary to carry out this work when starting the heating system after the summer period.

The formation of air can also be caused by the release of hydrogen during corrosion of metal network parts. Batteries made of aluminum without a special coating on the inner wall stably release hydrogen into the liquid, entering into a chemical reaction with it.

The operating principle of removing air from the heating system can be described in the following paragraphs:

1. First you need to prepare a container for liquid and a rag.
2. If air has accumulated, remove it. The Mayevsky tap is turned manually, using a key or screwdriver, once counterclockwise. Air masses will hiss and be removed from the radiator. Is there too much trapped air? This means you can turn the tap a little more. It is left in the open position until liquid begins to seep out of the hole and air stops escaping.
3. The shut-off valve can now be closed. If the heating system has pumps for forced circulation of the coolant, then some time before carrying out air bleed work, they must be turned off. Otherwise, you won’t be able to remove the cork completely.

A manual valve is usually not installed on large lines where air pockets accumulate regularly. For these systems, other gas removal devices are used.

How to understand that the battery is airy

Signs of air locks appear immediately. Here you don’t need to be a great specialist to understand that it is necessary to get rid of air in the heating radiator by bleeding it.

Cold areas of the battery indicate the presence of air.

You can recognize the airing of the heating by the following signs:

1. Air serves as a kind of heat insulator. In the place where it accumulates inside the battery, the sections are not heated by the coolant. The areas can be easily identified by touching the radiator with the palm of your hand.
2. The presence of air will be indicated by gurgling in the radiators when the heating is on.
3. Autonomous heating of a closed type is equipped with a pressure gauge. If the measuring device shows a drop in pressure in the system, then it does not occur without a special reason. Probably, a leak appeared somewhere due to depressurization of the unit. Naturally, as the coolant flows out, air penetrates into the system.

If one of the reasons appears, you need to bleed the air from the radiator in the apartment, after which the heating will be restored.

Important! The reason for the battery cooling may be that one of the supply pipes is clogged with rust or dirt. If, when draining from the Mayevsky tap, a strong stream of water flows without pops of air, then the problem is not airing.

Mayevsky manual crane

This is what Mayevsky's crane looks like.
Most modern radiators are equipped with a Mayevsky manual air vent. The device comes in an installation kit, which is included with most modern radiators; less often it is purchased separately from the battery.

This is what a universal installation kit for heating radiators looks like.

The product is made of brass and plastic and includes a needle cone valve that is opened manually. A small diameter hole in the open position releases air and coolant in minimal portions, which makes work safe, excluding burns and flooding of the room.

Mayevsky taps are produced with a connecting thread diameter of 1, ¾ or ½ inches.

A special plastic key in the shape of a butterfly is included for manipulation. It must be handled with care, as with great force it may break. You can open the tap with a flat screwdriver, and there are also varieties for manipulation without additional devices.

Advice! After installing the radiators, keep all keys in a separate place or tie them to the radiator so as not to lose them. It is inconvenient to work in a niche under the window sill; you will need a short non-standard screwdriver, since the battery can take up most of the space.

Mayevsky cranes may differ in appearance, but the principle of operation and operation of most of them are the same.

The most common types of Mayevsky cranes.

Instructions for working with the Mayevsky crane

Before draining the water, it is recommended to tighten and unscrew the radiator shut-off valves or thermostat, if such devices are installed, 1-2 times. If the devices have not been used for a long time, then the reason for cold batteries may be that they are clogged, interfering with the circulation of the coolant.

If no malfunction is detected in the regulator, then proceed to bleed the air in according to the following algorithm:

If after 5–10 minutes the battery warms up evenly, we can assume that the draining operation was successful.

If the coolant does not flow out of the battery at all, then the needle valve in the Mayevsky tap is clogged. Having closed the radiator shut-off valves, you can completely unscrew the regulator and clean the hole with a needle.

Attention! It is dangerous to completely unscrew the valve under pressure in the system without closing the shut-off valves. The coolant pressure will not allow you to screw the valve back in, and the liquid temperature (up to 110 °C) will cause burns.

The danger of air jams

Such air congestion significantly reduces the heating efficiency of heating devices, which negatively affects the overall temperature in the apartment.

The most obvious sign of a traffic jam is gurgling, knocking, or babbling in the pipes when water is poured into the heating pipes. For owners of private houses with heating boilers, if you hear such sounds, bleed the air from the radiators, otherwise this will lead to damage to the boiler. If the heating of the battery surface is uneven, lightly tap the battery surface with a metal object. In those places where air accumulates, the sound of the impact will be loud and resonant.

Prolonged contact between the battery metal and the air inside leads to corrosive deposits, which will then cause the device to fail. These are the main reasons why it is advised to bleed the air from the battery as quickly as possible.

Bleeding air using a tap

The essence of the method is that air is “squeezed out” from the system if the speed of water movement in a given area is increased. In this case, the turbulent flow “picks up” oxygen with itself, gradually removing it from the heat supply network. For this purpose, instead of the lower or upper plug of the cast iron battery, a regular valve was installed.

In order to bleed air from the radiator in this way, it is best to have a long hose on the household that will be enough to reach the toilet. Otherwise, you will have to run around with buckets, sometimes for quite a long time. One end of the hose is connected to the valve, the other is lowered into the sewer, after which the valve carefully opens. Moreover, it is advisable to open it to the maximum in order to create a good flow of coolant inside the battery.

Important. The degree of valve opening is determined by location. If the pressure in your system is too high, it will be noticeable and there is no need to open the tap completely.

The operation may take a long time, it depends on the power of the air plug and the pressure in the heating network. The faster the water flows, the faster it will remove all the air. The process should be controlled by the degree of heating of the cold sections of the heating device.

Heating system without air locks

To ensure that air in an individual heating system does not accumulate in problem areas, but goes outside, it is necessary:

• correctly design and install the pipeline, correctly install radiators;
• use automatic and manual air vents.

Let's look at how to expel air from a heating system with natural circulation and top wiring

When arranging a pipeline, it is important to maintain an inclination angle at which air bubbles move freely upward, to the highest point of the circuit, without accumulating at turns and flat areas. At the highest point of such a system, an open-type expansion tank must be installed, through which air bubbles enter the atmosphere

Bleeding air from the heating system using an automatic air vent

To bleed air from a system with forced movement of coolant or a gravity system with bottom wiring, a different principle is used

. Return pipelines are installed at a slope (this simplifies draining liquid from the system), and at the top point of all individual circuits, automatic valves are installed through which air is discharged as it accumulates.

In addition to automatic air vents, the system also uses manual Mayevsky valves. Such air vents are mounted on heating radiators - on the upper pipe on the opposite side of the pipe supplying the heated coolant. To ensure that air enters the valve and does not accumulate in the upper radiator manifold, it is recommended to install the heating device at a slight angle. Air release is performed manually as needed.

How to find an air lock?

Ideally, the system independently copes with airing thanks to automatic valves through which air is released. If you discover that a particular heating device or part of the circuit is not working properly, you need to find the place where the air has accumulated.

Touch the radiator - if its upper part is colder than the lower part, it means that coolant is not flowing there. To release air, open the Mayevsky valve installed on a steel, aluminum or bimetallic radiator, or the valve valve mounted on cast iron batteries.

How to determine the air lock in the battery

You can also determine the place of airing by sound - under normal conditions, the coolant moves almost silently, extraneous gurgling and sounds of overflow occur due to an obstacle in the flow.

Metal pipes and heating appliances are tapped with light blows - in places where air accumulates, the sound is noticeably louder.

Getting rid of the airlock

If there are manual air vents on radiators, there are no problems with how to remove air from the batteries. Using a screwdriver or a standard wrench, the stem of the Mayevsky tap is slightly unscrewed, and a suitable container is placed under the drain hole (a half-liter glass jar is enough). Bleeding air from the heating system using a manual air vent is accompanied by hissing and whistling, then splashes appear, after which the coolant begins to flow in a thin stream. At this stage, the Mayevsky tap should be closed.

To remove an air lock from the heating system if it has accumulated away from the air vent (manual or automatic), proceed as follows

:

1. Open the air tap or valve closest to the air bubble.
2. They begin to gradually replenish the system with coolant so that the liquid, due to an increase in volume, displaces the air bubble towards the open air vent.

Automatic air vent valve with corner connection
What to do in difficult cases when adding more coolant volume does not remove the plug? In such a situation, in addition to increasing the amount of coolant, it is necessary to add pressure, heating the liquid to critical temperatures. You should act extremely carefully so as not to be scalded by the splashes that accompany the release of air through the automatic valve.

Some nuances

There are situations when craftsmen, when installing a heating system, do not install special valves to release excess air.
Let's look at how to bleed air from a heating battery in this case. To work, you will need an adjustable or gas wrench. Use it to unscrew the plug. This needs to be done very slowly. Sometimes the plug won't come off. Most often this happens if the battery is cast iron. In this case, you need to apply a special lubricant to the threads and try again after some time. When the plug is unscrewed, the same algorithm of actions is performed as with a regular tap. When the plug is screwed into place, you must remember to wrap either FUM tape or flax around the thread. This will avoid leaks and make the connection tight.

This container is always located at the highest point of the heating system. When the water is drained, you need to wait a little and then unscrew the tap on the expansion tank. Usually, when the battery temperature rises, the plug comes out on its own. If such actions are unsuccessful, then the water in the circuit should be brought to a boil. In this case, the plug will definitely come out.

How often should I bleed?

Knowing how to bleed air from a heating system can prevent and solve many problems.
But how often should such a procedure be carried out for preventive purposes? As a rule, this should be done at the beginning of the heating season. Twice is enough (the first time for checking, the second for control). Of course, if the system has defects or is faulty, then the number of descents may be greater. If the apartment has aluminum radiators, then before starting the system it is necessary to drain the water. This will help increase battery life significantly.

Heating operating principle

First, you should consider how exactly the heating system works.
It starts with the boiler room, where a boiler is constructed that runs on a specific fuel. It will be responsible for heating the water and its circulation. Pipes are laid from the boiler to the rooms that need to be heated. In urban environments, the length of pipes can reach several kilometers, and they are laid underground so as not to disturb residents. In the rooms, pipes are connected to radiators (radiators), which heat the environment. Previously, radiators were made of cast iron, but now emphasis is placed on aluminum and brass due to their higher reliability: cast iron batteries quickly rusted and became unusable.

Central heating system operation diagram

After connecting the structure, it is filled with special water, which is called “coolant”. Its distinctive feature is that it contains a special alkali that prevents corrosion. This protects the inside of the battery from rust and extends its service life.

Interesting fact: if you fill the battery with ordinary water, it will become unusable within a couple of months.

When the pipes and radiators are completely filled with liquid, the boiler begins to heat it and also circulate in a circle so that stagnation does not form. An increase in the temperature of the coolant causes the battery to heat up and radiate heat, and the room is heated.

Depending on the weather outside, the boiler room regulates the temperature of the boiler, and consequently the temperature of the batteries. This is done by supplying fuel and adjusting operating modes. Previously, coal was most often used as fuel; now preference is given to gas, fuel oil and electricity sources.

Preventing the formation of air pockets

You can avoid the appearance of air in the heating system even at the very initial stage of its startup. To do this, it is necessary to correctly fill the pipes and batteries with coolant. In open systems this is done in the following way:

• We open all the valves to ensure unhindered movement of the coolant;
• Leave the drain valve closed;
• We begin to carefully fill the system with water.

Please note that the pressure is not very high. When filling a closed heating system, bleed air in the following way:

When filling a closed heating system, bleed air in the following way:

• We connect a pressure test pump, which allows pumping stable pressure in the heating;
• Close the taps on the radiators;
• We are waiting for the system to fill up.

Despite its apparent simplicity, the Mayevsky crane is an extremely effective tool that perfectly performs the task.

Now you need to fill the batteries with water and get rid of the air using Mayevsky taps. We sequentially go around all the heating devices, carefully open the valves, let in the coolant, remove air masses using the above taps, after which we close the valves. The pressure in the pipes must be maintained at one atmosphere, so it is more convenient to perform the operation together. At the final stage of work, we turn on the heating, wait until the set temperature is reached, and then repeat the procedure with the batteries.

Good radiators, for example, steel or bimetallic, will help prevent the appearance of air in the heating - in them the likelihood of air jams forming is reduced to almost zero

When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to pay attention to tightness, carefully and completely tightening all connecting parts. It is also recommended to install automatic or manual air vents.

One of the air vents is installed at the highest point, since air in radiators and pipes tends to accumulate in the upper parts of heating systems.

Problem Definition

To identify air pockets in heating you need:

• try to touch the batteries, and if part of the surface is cold or barely warm, this will mean there is air in the system;
• if the temperature in the room drops for no reason;
• if gurgling is heard in the radiator.

It is very easy to check whether the system needs bleeding by tapping a metal object on the top of the battery, and then doing the same at the bottom. Where the traffic jam occurs, the sound will be louder.

Cast iron batteries

The Mayevsky crane simplifies the work, but not all batteries have such a convenient device. For example, on cast iron versions you can often find a regular plug screwed onto tow and coated with paint. Removing it is problematic. Of course, you can visit the neighbors below or above, who have a Mayevsky tap on the radiator - this way you can gain access to the coolant. But this is not always possible.

We'll have to resort to the "old-fashioned" method. You will need a basin, a bucket and a lot of unnecessary rags. You don’t even have to try to unscrew the plug with your bare hands; you need to take an adjustable wrench. A paint thinner will also come in handy; the plug must have dried firmly over a long period of time. Then follow the instructions:

1. Apply solvent to the plug and wait twenty minutes.
2. Run along the thread with an adjustable wrench until the plug gives way. You should hear the sound of air escaping.
3. When the sound dies down, you need to wrap a new layer of “fumka” around the plug and insert it in its original place. If necessary, touch up the joint.

In order not to worry about heating the room in winter, you just need to promptly remove air pockets that interfere with the normal movement of the coolant. The result will be a warm, cozy atmosphere in the house even in the most severe frosts.

Correct option

To carry out a successful operation, an adjustable wrench is a must, as well as a basin and rags. You will need to purchase tow, FUM tape or sealant. It is imperative to shut off the coolant supply. The following steps are performed sequentially:

1. First, remove the tow, but first place a container under the radiator. If you can’t get to the tow right away, then remove (dissolve) the paint.
2. Carefully, slowly unscrew the plug. Any sudden movements or great efforts are avoided, because there is always a risk of breaking the thread.
3. If the element does not lend itself, then use a solvent or WD-40, a rust converter. The product is poured into the problem joint.
4. Then they pause: wait 5-10 minutes. Then they repeat the steps, also carefully. The operation is stopped when an extraneous sound appears.
5. After unscrewing the plug, the air masses begin to gradually bleed off, this process is always accompanied by hissing.
6. At the end of this stage, approximately 3-5 liters of water are drained. These actions will minimize the chance of encountering a traffic jam again.

Then the plug is screwed tightly again, having previously wound a new portion of tow. It can be replaced with more modern products - FUM tape. However, they believe that the best option is a combination of these materials. But the shrinking tape has a competitor: they often prefer to coat tow with sealant rather than wrap it with fumigation. For example, UNIPAK sealing paste.

After these manipulations, open the coolant supply valve. Since this method is very complicated, if you lack the skills, it is better to call a specialist, since a leak can be very expensive for the owners. Any master plumber, on the contrary, is well aware of how to bleed air from a battery.

Unsafe express method

If the radiator has been standing since “antediluvian” times, then it is quite possible that the owner will not be able to cope with unscrewing the plug on his own. In this case, some recommend an original method - drilling a hole in it.

To do this you will need a drill, a screwdriver and a metal drill (maximum diameter 4 mm). You also need to find a self-tapping screw; its diameter should be 1.5-2 mm larger than the hole. You will need a rubber gasket under it. To ensure the reliability of the “hot spot”, it is recommended to use a sealant.

The work itself is simple, but must be done quickly.

1. First, drill a hole, then carefully and slowly pull out the drill.
2. After this, the air will come out and water will begin to flow, quickly screw in the self-tapping screw with the gasket on it.

They say that pre-coating this structure with sealant guarantees almost one hundred percent reliability of the system. If the owner has a desire to test this “maximum”, then he is a person who is not afraid of possible consequences.

How to remove a clogged heating battery: a review of chemicals

Quite often, an acid solution is used to clean pipes. We do not recommend using it at home. Most often, such techniques are used by mechanics who perform work at home or pick up batteries and carry out cleaning in a production environment.

To help remove scale better, you can tap the batteries with a wooden hammer during the cleaning process. It will not damage the paint and will promote better descaling. Typically used to clean car radiators.

List:

• Wynn's Cooling System Flush
• Cooling system cleaner LIQUI MOLI 1994
• Flushing the cooling system - Kuhler Reiniger
• Wynn's Radiator Flush

Cleaning products
We advise you to take care of this in advance and use the services of professionals. Thus, your pipes will be ready for the heating season, and you will be able to winter in warm and comfortable conditions.

In a private house

Many houses have radiators with a Mayevsky tap, so when airing the system, you can use the same method as in an apartment building.
However, usually such devices are not available, which is why the only way is to drain through the expansion tank. Such a device is a mandatory element of any heating system in the house. It can be open or closed. The first option is easier to operate, and airing the system usually means lowering the water level in the tank. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to replenish the missing amount of fluid.

If the heating system has a closed tank, the only solution to the problem is to bleed air through the radiators. Before doing this, it is recommended to try to completely fill the system so that at least 10 liters of water flow out of the control pipe leaving the tank.

After this, you need to start the system again. If the problem persists, it is recommended to bleed air from the battery, following general recommendations. It is worth noting that in old-style heating systems, air may appear in the radiators during intensive operation of the heating boiler.

This is especially often observed when installing solid fuel models without a built-in thermostat. The water heats up excessively, begins to boil and pours out through the control pipe of the expansion tank. As a result, it becomes empty and, if there are cracks that break the tightness, air masses begin to enter the system. Then you can bleed the air using any of the listed methods, but before doing this, you need to eliminate the holes or cracks. Otherwise, the descent will have to be repeated regularly.

Filling the heating circuit with coolant

In order for the heating system to work correctly, it must be flushed and then refilled with water. It is often at this stage that air leaks into the circuit. This occurs due to incorrect actions while filling the contour. In particular, air can be trapped by too fast a flow of water, as mentioned earlier.

The diagram of the expansion tank of an open heating circuit allows you to get an idea of ​​​​the procedure for filling such a system with coolant after flushing

In addition, correct filling of the circuit also facilitates faster removal of that part of the air masses that are dissolved in the coolant. To begin with, it makes sense to consider an example of filling an open heating system, at the highest point of which the expansion tank is located.

Such a circuit should be filled with coolant starting from its very bottom. For these purposes, a shut-off valve is installed at the bottom of the system, through which tap water is supplied to the system.

A properly designed expansion tank has a special pipe that protects it from overflow.

A hose of such length should be attached to this pipe that its other end is brought out into the area and is located outside the house. Before you start filling the system, you should take care of the heating boiler. It is recommended to disconnect it from the system at this time so that the protective modules of this unit do not work.

Once these preparatory steps have been completed, you can begin filling the contour. The tap at the bottom of the circuit through which tap water flows is opened so that water fills the pipes very slowly.

The recommended filling flow rate should be approximately three times less than the maximum possible. This means that the tap should not be turned off completely, but only to one third of the pipe lumen

Slow filling is continued until water flows through the overflow hose leading outside. After this, the water tap should be closed. Now you should go through the entire system and open the Mayevsky valve on each radiator to bleed air.

Then you can reconnect the boiler to the heating system. It is also recommended to open these taps very slowly. While the boiler is filling with coolant, you can hear a hissing sound produced by the air release safety valve.

This is normal. After this, you need to add water to the system again at the same slow pace. The expansion tank should be approximately 60-70% full.

After this, it is necessary to check the operation of the heating system. The boiler is turned on and the heating system is warmed up. Radiators and pipes are then examined to identify areas where heating is missing or insufficient.

Insufficient heating indicates the presence of air in the heating radiators; it must be bled again through the Mayevsky taps. If the procedure for filling the heating circuit with coolant was successful, do not relax.

For at least another week, the operation of the system should be closely monitored, the water level in the expansion tank should be monitored, and the condition of pipes and radiators should be checked. This will allow problems to be quickly resolved.

In a similar way, closed-type systems are filled with coolant. Water should also be supplied to the system at low speed through a special tap.

You can fill a closed-type heating system with working fluid (coolant) on your own

It is important to arm yourself with a pressure gauge for this. But in such systems, pressure control is an important point.

When it reaches a level of two bars, you should turn off the water and bleed air from all radiators through the Mayevsky taps. At the same time, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to gradually add coolant to the circuit to maintain the pressure at two bar

But in such systems, pressure control is an important point. When it reaches a level of two bars, you should turn off the water and bleed air from all radiators through the Mayevsky taps. At the same time, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to gradually add coolant to the circuit to maintain the pressure at two bar.

It is difficult to perform both of these operations alone. Therefore, it is recommended to complete the filling of a closed contour together with an assistant. While one person bleeds air from the radiators, his partner monitors the pressure level in the system and immediately corrects it. Collaborative work will improve the quality of this type of work and reduce its time.

Removing a plug in autonomous heating

A simple and effective method that allows you to quickly remove air from the system is to install an automatic air collector. The structure is located at the top point of the system. When necessary, it is opened and the air lock is removed.

The simplest means of de-airing is opening the air collector

Another way to bleed air is through an expansion tank . It is usually at the top. To eliminate air from the pipes, no additional actions are required - it rises and goes out on its own.

The air from the heating batteries is vented using a tap installed on the side of the radiator. You can also use a special device - the Mayevsky crane.

The final choice of deaeration method is influenced by the specifics of the project. In general, if the heating technology is followed, there should be no problems.

How to protect your system from freezing

In addition to being able to drain the water, the system must be protected - at least partially - from frost. Not only a simple drain of water can save an individual water supply system from freezing - modern materials and technologies are at your service. To protect water shut-off valves from freezing of residual water, use faucets with ceramic parts and taps with rubber seals. The most resistant to water freezing are pipes, as we said above, not made of steel, but of low-density polyethylene (HDPE). Flexible plastic can withstand some increase in the volume of internal ice without collapsing, but it is still safer not to test the water supply for strength and remove all water from the water supply system before the onset of cold weather.

Lay water supply pipes from the well to the residential building along the bottom of a trench dug to a frost-free depth. This guarantees complete protection of the external water supply system from any frost. The pipes must be sloping towards the water source so that the return flow occurs unhindered. Protect pipes that go to the surface - for example, a short section of pipe from a trench into a house - with a heating cable.

Draining water from the water supply system for the winter will not be difficult if this function is initially included in the design of the external and internal water supply. A technically competent solution to this problem is only possible if the design and installation of pipes for individual water supply are entrusted to professionals.

Category: Water supply and heating

Deaeration of a centralized system

In apartment buildings and the private sector, central heating is designed with air collectors. They are located at the top point. When the heating system is aired, just open the tap. When an air lock forms, opening the air collector allows air to rise through the pipes. Thus, the entire system is filled with water, and there are no plugs left.

In apartments, to ventilate the system you just need to open the tap

In an apartment or house, you can remove the blockage by bleeding the air in the place where it formed. For this purpose, batteries are equipped with taps. It must be borne in mind that it is unacceptable to install plumbing elements. Special valves called air vents are used . If the owner of the premises installs a water tap instead of an air vent and accidentally drains a certain amount of coolant from the system, he will have to pay a fine.

The vent is opened using a special key or a regular screwdriver. Extreme care must be taken, but even if everything is done correctly, it is possible that not only air will come out of the radiator, but water will also leak out.

Scheduled repairs

Do you want to clean your radiator? Exchange for a newer model or, vice versa (because, in your opinion, they are better)?

If you live in a private house, there are no problems. Just don’t forget that it’s better to fill the system right away and make sure that nothing is leaking anywhere.

If you live in an apartment and you have the opportunity to disconnect from the riser and change the battery yourself, do it. If not, it is better for you to contact the organization that services the heating network of your home so that its employees will shut off the heating system and release water from it centrally.

Material on the topic - (detailed step-by-step instructions are provided).

Design and operating principle of manual air valve

The needle manual air valve is also called a Mayevsky valve. His device:

• Brass body (plug) with external thread 1/2// or 3/4// for connection to the radiator. The case has two holes for air release Ø 2 mm - one at the end of the case, the second on the side wall;
• Brass locking screw. On one side of the screw there is a groove for a slotted screwdriver, on the other side the screw is machined into a cone that closes the air hole (the “closed” position);
• Plastic casing.

On sale you can find the so-called “faucet at hand”. To use it, you don’t need a key or a screwdriver—the plug can be easily unscrewed by hand.

To remove air from the housing, you need to unscrew the screw. To do this, you can, of course, use a screwdriver, but there are special keys that are most often included. After several revolutions, the screw cone comes out of the end hole and air enters the housing cavity, which is immediately released through the second side hole. The main thing is not to rush to turn off the tap. About 30 - 40% of the air should come out with water, so you need to stock up on time, a basin and rags. After the air has been released, the lost water must be added to the system.

Installation

Modern aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators already have a hole for installing a Mayevsky tap.
It can be found on the side opposite the coolant supply, from above. Most likely, there is already a nut for installation there. There is a plastic plug screwed into it. After its removal, an air valve is installed in this place. Before this, the tap threads must be sealed with a rubber or silicone gasket. Installing a Mayevsky crane on a cast iron battery is much more difficult. Let's start with the fact that these valves are much more powerful than those on aluminum radiators - they can withstand pressures of up to 16 atmospheres and temperatures of 150 C°. Sequencing:

1. Drain the water from the radiator;
2. Cut a hole in the top plug of the cast iron battery and cut a thread that matches the external thread of the air vent;
3. Screw in the Mayevsky tap;
4. Add water to the system.

Malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

If the faucet malfunctions, a leak appears. There may be several reasons for this:

• Manufacturing defects. One in fifty taps does not hold pressure at all. The only way out is replacement;
• The screw is too short. In this case, its conical part cannot completely block the hole, so you need to apply a certain force to screw the screw in until it stops;
• Solid particles of debris falling between the screw and the housing can damage the internal threads. Fum tape can help here once, but later you will still have to change the tap.

Materials, equipment and procedure for draining water

To perform the necessary work, you will need a compressor, and of good performance, with a receiver for storing compressed air.

As you already understood, a car one is not suitable for these purposes.

If you are planning to drain used antifreeze, then you yourself understand that it is not worth draining it anywhere.

Clamps of the appropriate size for a reliable hose connection will also be needed.

Connect the hose from the compressor to the underfloor heating supply manifold.

The supply manifold may or may not have a special fitting in its design for filling the system under the hose. Therefore, the automatic air vent is unscrewed on the supply comb and a hose is connected through a suitable adapter and tightened with a clamp.

Arrangement of elements on the manifold for draining

• In the same way, connect the hose to the return manifold and lead it to the drainage point.
• Close the supply and return valves coming from the boiler in the manifold area.
• Using flow meters or valves (depending on your collector), close all underfloor heating circuits, except one, which, on the contrary, needs to be opened to the maximum.
• Turn on the compressor, open the valves or tap (depending on the type of comb) that are designed to fill and drain the system (those with hoses on them). At this moment, the coolant will begin to flow out of the drain hose under pressure. Wait until the water runs out and air comes out. At this point, pay attention to the pressure gauge on the compressor. If the pressure in the receiver at this moment is not high (1-3 atm), then close one of the taps on which the hose is attached (preferably, it would be a tap on the supply manifold, or if the pump is equipped with its own shut-off device, it is better to use it) . Wait for the pressure to rise to 5 atm. (no more) and blow out the floor loop under this pressure.
• Close the blown circuit and open the next one. Repeat the same procedure with him.
• In this way, drain the water from all underfloor heating circuits.
• For better efficiency, repeat the procedure after half an hour, since the remaining droplets of water in the pipe can connect with each other and eventually block the cross-section of the pipe in a certain place.

By following this method, you will solve the problem of how to drain water from a heated floor. The only problem is getting a compressor that can handle this task.

Self-pressure testing of underfloor heating systems

First launch of a warm water floor Rules for installing a warm water floor based on a concrete screed

How to flush a heated floor heating system and how to completely flush the heating system in a private house with your own hands

Installation of water heated floors without concrete screed

Warm water floor system technology

Recommendations for selection

The most important recommendation is that you should not buy valves made in China. Almost all models of this origin are of dubious quality. The consequences of such savings can lead to the following:

1. In parallel with the air pockets, the device will leak liquid. This leads to a drop in pressure in the circuit, as well as to the appearance of leaks on the body, walls and floor.
2. A poor quality air vent may simply not work.
3. The coolant quickly renders all structural elements of the valve unusable.

With mechanical devices, this problem occurs much less frequently, since there is practically nothing to break in their design. These products are not some kind of complex equipment, so their cost is quite low. Even well-known manufacturers (for example, Valtec) provide products at an average price. Spirotech machines are also famous for their high quality characteristics. Basic tips for choosing:

1. It is better to buy a mechanical valve with a plastic or metal handle. This eliminates the need to fiddle with different wrenches or screwdrivers. It is convenient to use the device even in places where access is difficult.
2. If there are small children in the house, then it is advisable to install a regular manual faucet, designed for adjustment with a screwdriver. A child can unscrew the vent with a handle and get scalded by the coolant.
3. It is recommended to buy devices with an automatic cut-off.
4. 4. If your budget allows, you can purchase a device with additional functions. This makes operating the system more convenient.
5. The special anodized coating of the valve plays virtually no role. It only reduces the degree of metal corrosion.

On the market you can find combined designs that are also equipped with a vent. These include balancing valves, various shut-off valves, and circulation pumps. Most experts do not recommend using such products. It is better to purchase each part separately. The ROBOCAL valve is perfect for an ordinary apartment. It is designed for pressures up to 6 bar.

Types of air vents

Air exhaust devices can be manual or automatic.

The manual air vent is called the “Mayevsky tap”, is oversized and is usually installed at the end of the battery. This device has a side hole through which air comes out, and then water, so when installing the Mayevsky tap, you should pay attention so that this hole looks exactly down and not into the wall. Adjustment is made with a special key, but a simple screwdriver will do. This type of valve is suitable for releasing a small amount of air in one battery.

The automatic air vent does not require human assistance. Such devices are quite productive, but at the same time they are sensitive to water quality, so they are installed together with filters. Such air vents can be installed both vertically and horizontally, preferably at each node of the heating system.

Operating principle of the device:

1. The air outlet valve is tightly closed with a float.
2. When air accumulates in the radiator, the float rises and opens the valve, releasing the air.
3. When it comes out, the float returns to its original position, closing the valve.

Prevention methods

In order not to constantly bleed air from the radiators, it is necessary to perform all actions correctly when starting the heating system. The open type of system provides for independent filling of pipes with coolant. To do this, open all the valves, ensuring the unhindered movement of water.

The pressure should not be too great. It is recommended to pay attention to the drain valve, which must be closed when filling the radiators. If the heating system is closed, the algorithm is slightly different. The first step is to close all the valves except the one that starts the water. Next, you should connect a pump that ensures stable pressure in the pipes. The next step is to fill the system with coolant. Only after this should you bleed air from the radiators using a Mayevsky tap.

Air in the radiator is a common problem in houses and apartments , preventing normal heating of the room. If you follow the recommendations of specialists, an ordinary person without professional skills can cope with it.

How to bleed air from a radiator if there is no tap

You can bleed air from old cast-iron radiators with the help of plumbers from the housing office (see the resolution of the Ministry of Public Construction dated September 27, 2003). However, in reality, plumbers rarely help bleed air.

In their homes, the owners themselves bleed the air from the radiators. There are craftsmen who install taps on them themselves to make it easier to release air. You can bleed air from a cast iron radiator in the following way.

When heating your home individually, you first need to turn off the boiler. If you need to bleed air from the radiator in an apartment, you should tighten the distribution valve on the riser. Now a long hose is inserted into the radiator hole, stretched to the sewer.

Advice. We recommend preparing a basin (under the radiator) and dry rags in advance, as there will be a lot of water.

After this, you need to remove the plug, which can be a difficult task due to the oil paint and tow that has dried around it. To simplify this process, you can use a special lubricant. At this stage you will need an adjustable wrench.

Advice. If the plug cannot be unscrewed even with lubricant, then you should dissolve the paint with kerosene (this will take about 20 minutes).

Finally, you need to wrap the plug with FUM tape and attach it.

Whether or not it is necessary to bleed air from the radiator is up to the owners to decide. However, we still recommend learning how to do this in order to control the operation of the heating system.

Bleeding air from the radiator is actually not difficult at all; it is important to follow the technology of this process.

Read material on the topic: Wholesale heating radiators with delivery and quality guarantee

Advice from professionals

A few tips from professionals will help you safely ventilate the system and reduce the likelihood of blockages:

1. Always add water to the cooled autonomous heating circuit from the lowest point under low pressure. After topping up, turn on the boiler, heat the coolant to a temperature of 60 °C, and begin to bleed air from each battery through the Mayevsky valve. If necessary, after servicing all radiators, add more water to the system.
2. The rod from the Mayevsky tap cannot be completely unscrewed. It is difficult and often impossible to screw it back in under running hot water.
3. Unscrewing the radiator cap in an apartment is strictly prohibited. Central heating operates under high pressure. If the plug is torn off, all the apartments below will be flooded.

If problems arise with airing, it is best to call a specialist from a service organization who has the right to turn off the riser for repairs even during the heating season.

When to drain water from batteries

Sometimes maintenance is not the only reason for draining the coolant. Sometimes this needs to be done during renovation work. For example, it is necessary to replace the radiator in a room. There are battery models where shut-off valves prevent the water from being drained. But if it is necessary to replace a cast-iron radiator with a modern metal section, then drainage is necessary.

It is necessary to drain the liquid while cleaning the system from limescale. Often the cause of blocked pipes is rust build-up on the internal surfaces of the pipes if they are made of metal.

Safety precautions and preventive maintenance

To avoid injuries and other problems, you need to follow a number of rules when bleeding air:

• The rod from the air valve cannot be unscrewed - the pressure of the heated coolant will not allow it to be screwed back on;
• The body of the tap also cannot be turned out - it is very easy to break the thread, but it is difficult to eliminate the consequences of flooding the apartment;
• The radiator caps cannot be unscrewed even partially - they cannot be returned later, and boiling water pouring out of the radiators will bring a lot of negative emotions (about