Distance from the floor to the heating radiator and battery: where to hang snip from the window sill according to the standards

Ensuring a comfortable temperature for people living in a private house or apartment in winter is a priority task for every owner. When organizing individual heating or heat supply in an apartment building, all elements are important, starting with what should be the distance from the floor to the heating radiator, and ending with the fluid pressure in the system. Before starting work, you should study the building codes and regulations (SNiP) relating to the organization of heat supply, and also find out at what distance experts recommend hanging the heating device.

In the living room

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Correct installation of heating radiators

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

One type of brackets

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of lightweight concrete or covered with plasterboard, floor installation is required. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Legs for installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators on the floor

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, and the lower collector is secured with an arc to the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Step-by-step installation algorithm

Silicone tape promotes better sealing of connections.
After calculating all the necessary values and choosing a connection method, you can proceed to installing radiators. All work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP. You must also follow the manufacturer's instructions. If the instructions are violated, there is a risk of loss of warranty service. According to regulations, you do not have to remove the protective film from the devices during installation. This way the device will be protected from dust and scratches during installation work.

Items required for connection:

Hooks with plastic dowels - at least 3 pieces. Needed for mounting to a wall or floor.
2 side plugs with right-hand thread. They are designated D.
2 plugs with left-hand thread with the letter S.
Stub.
Silicone sealing thread or flax.
The elements required by the scheme are taps, valves, valves.
Pipes. Metal or polypropylene are selected. Metal products are distinguished by high quality, durability and long service life. Polypropylene pipes are cheaper.

Tools you will need:

Electric drill and drill bit. Selected according to the hardness of the wall.
Screwdriver.
Building level.
Key.
Tape measure and a simple pencil.

Depending on the design of the radiator, an air vent is selected.
The general installation procedure for various parts of the heating system is also regulated by SNiP.

Making markings for brackets. This is done using dowels or cement mortar. There must be at least three brackets in total.
Installation of plugs, adapters, Mayevsky taps and other parts.
Installation of the radiator itself. It is necessary to connect its pipes to the heating system.
Installation of an air vent. It should be automatic.
Removing the protective film.

If these requirements are met, the installation of the system will be of high quality and durable.

For efficient operation of the heating circuit, it is important to make the connection correctly, which varies depending on the type of mounting. There is wall and floor.

Wall mount

Wall mounting material
Wall mounting is easier to make than floor mounting.

Installation is carried out as follows:

Preparing the mounting site. First, the heating circuit pipe is connected. The wall behind the radiator needs to be covered with foil material.
Preliminary marking of the mounting location for the clamps.
Installation of fasteners using dowels. The depth into the wall must be at least 6 cm to securely fix the battery.
Mounting the radiator onto the brackets. Fixing and leveling the device.
Connection to pipes. Checking the tightness of all connections.
Test run of the system.

During installation, it is important to make horizontal alignment of the battery. Otherwise, air will accumulate in the device, which reduces the heating intensity and leads to corrosion.

It is also important to comply with the location of the battery. It must be installed strictly in the center of the window.

Fastening elements are different. They can be made in the form of suspensions, brackets and other structures. Regardless of the type, they have the same task - securely fixing the radiator to the wall. Instructions for attaching the clamps are included along with the elements themselves.

Types of radiators

In Soviet times, all batteries were identical in appearance, resembling accordion bellows. Modern radiators, including bimetallic ones, are produced in different types. Monolithic samples form a section assembled entirely from steel tubes that cannot be disassembled. The dimensions of such a heater device cannot be changed: reduce or increase the number of pipes. If the thermal power of the battery for a particular room is calculated correctly, then a more reliable heating device cannot be found. Such batteries will withstand pressure up to one hundred atmospheres. They are the most expensive bimetallic heaters on the market.

Collapsible (sectional) models make it possible to determine the parameters of the radiator section required for a single room. To ensure real warmth in the apartment, before purchasing a device, you must first determine what its power should be, taking into account any heat loss. The capacity of the heater directly depends on its size. The smaller the capacity, the more economical the heating device operates.

Installation work:

Before installing the battery, aluminum foil is glued to the wall surface. This must be done to increase the efficiency of the device and improve heat transfer.
After this, you can mark the fasteners.

Important! When installing a radiator, it is necessary to control both planes - vertical and horizontal. The quality of heating largely depends on how vertical and horizontal are observed.

A medium-sized heater is hung on 2 brackets located under the outer sections.
If the battery is large, an additional bracket is needed strictly in the central opening.
Another necessary condition is a jumper (bypass) for single-pipe distribution, which makes it possible to independently regulate the required amount of heat in the room. The advantage of the bypass is that its installation does not require the prior receipt of special permits. It is possible to install the jumper yourself.

Important! The rules for installing heating batteries are the same for both central and individual heating. To install new batteries, you need to coordinate this point with the housing office or management company.

Depending on the design of the selected equipment and the progress of the repair work, you may also find our following tips useful:

Distance from window sill to radiator

Almost all modern radiators and sectional heating radiators amaze with their high efficiency and efficiency, providing such indicators due to air convection and its natural flow through the heat exchange system. It is precisely because of these design features that it is not enough just to buy highly efficient radiators and power them with coolant; it is necessary to provide conditions for convection - the natural transfer of heat by air. Let us indicate the required distance from the window sill to the radiator, as well as the main installation recommendations, as conditions for maintaining high efficiency.

Window sill board.

When installing marble window sills in an apartment or private house, many focus only on the upper gap of 100 mm, completely forgetting that by choosing an overly protruding, wide window sill, you can disrupt not only the thermal cutoff of cold air, but also change the overall air circulation along the windows. The window sill board should not block the radiator, creating a kind of niche for the battery, suggesting an enveloping movement of heat along it. Unfortunately, a specific size cannot be recommended, and the protrusion of the board should minimally interfere with air convection near the radiator and move it away from the glass.

Radiator mounting.

Before drawing the first mounting point on the wall, carefully study the included instructions for the radiator, as... Most manufacturers inform about the recommended installation gaps that ensure high heat transfer of this particular battery. In the absence of such recommendations, they use general ones, according to SNiP 3.05.01-85. "Internal sanitary systems":

The minimum distance from the bottom of the window sill to the radiator is 100mm, since reducing it reduces the heat flow of air. From the floor to the bottom of the radiator, the gap is in the range of 100-150mm, and increasing the distance increases the temperature difference in the entire room, and decreasing it again reduces the intensity of heat transfer

It is also important to take into account the distance from the wall to the radiator; it is made 25-30mm, because the rear surface also actively participates in heat exchange. If the factory recommendations differ from SNiP, they are guided by the manufacturer who developed the battery.

If the factory recommendations differ from SNiP, they are guided by the manufacturer who developed the battery.

The efficiency of its operation and the comfortable temperature in the room depend on the correct installation of the heating device. For the efficient operation of the heating system, it is important not only the correctness of its assembly, the quality of the equipment and the tightness of the connections, but also compliance with the standardized distances from the heating devices to the surrounding structures (floor, walls, window sill)

It is especially important to maintain the distance from the battery to the window sill, because obstacles from above can interfere with the normal circulation of convection currents. We will list the standards for installing heating radiators in an apartment and a private house. Today you can find radiators on sale in different designs and from different materials.

Today you can find radiators on sale in different designs and from different materials.

They are also divided according to installation methods and come in the following types:

Floor-standing devices have special legs for installation on the floor in the room. In any case, such radiators are installed at some distance from the wall surface and the protruding horizontal structures of the window opening.
Wall-mounted radiators are mounted on supporting brackets fixed to the walls of the room. They are usually installed under window openings so that rising convection currents create a thermal curtain in front of the window, because it is through the glazing that the room loses the most heat.

In any case, when installing a heating device, you must follow the rules for installing batteries. It is easiest to maintain the required distance from the wall to the unit when hanging on walls, because in this case special brackets are used, which, due to their configuration, provide the required clearance. When installing a floor-standing device, the distance will have to be adjusted manually.

Height calculation

The distance between the radiator and the window sill must be at least 10 cm, regardless of what type of heating device is used. You also need to take into account the height of the battery itself. It is necessary to retreat 8 cm from the rear. The battery itself should rise above the floor by 10 cm, that is, when installing a window sill from the floor according to SNIP, you will need to retreat 70-80 cm.

The projection of the window sill also plays an important role.

: It may extend significantly from the wall or be invisible. If there is no radiator under the window, it is not necessary to meet any requirements, but if heating is present, the projection must be strictly regulated. The task of the window sill is to redirect heat flows. Without it, they will rise upward, and proper heating of the room will not occur, since some of the heat will evaporate and be distributed on the ceiling.

Poor convection can also be caused by a window sill that is too wide. It will not allow warm air to escape, as a result, condensation will begin to accumulate on the window, since the main air flows will go up, and some of them will get stuck under the window, heating the atmosphere

In this case, it is very important to calculate the distance from the window sill to the heating radiator, both in height and how much of a protrusion can be made. You can avoid the problem described above by using a slab that does not extend beyond the wall by more than 8 cm

Tip: when calculating the dimensions, you need to take into account the level of the wall with decoration.

The best option is a solution in which no more than 10% of warm air will be retained in the window niche. To do this, the window sill should not protrude more than 6 cm beyond the radiator, but it should not be shorter than the heating device. If the design solution of the room requires the installation of non-standard wide structures, it is necessary to provide ventilation holes in them. Their size must be sufficient for proper air circulation.

Is clearance necessary?

Some window owners believe that the window sill extends deep under the window frame, but this is not the case. The distance between the window and the window sill is approximately 10 mm. Otherwise, the structure may become deformed. The fact is that under the influence of warm air, the material from which the slab is made expands. The gap is left so that the structure can take the desired shape without being damaged. Visually, this technique is invisible.

How to position the curtain?

The distance of the window sill curtain also plays a role. In order for the curtains to move without clinging, without leaving marks on them, and for warm air to circulate freely, the distance must be at least 5 cm.

Conclusion: it is not always possible to apply the standard distance from the floor, radiator, curtains to the window sill, but you can find a way out by observing certain requirements.

Video: Installation of heating radiators (batteries)

Features of installation of in-floor radiators

These include:

pressure in the heating system. In-floor water batteries are among the most popular solutions for heating private households, since the pressure in an autonomous radiator heating structure is relatively low and almost never exceeds 2.5 atmospheres. It should be noted that experts do not recommend using such floor radiators for centralized systems, since the coolant supply standards in them require a pressure of 6-12 atmospheres and for this reason the floor heating system will quickly become unusable. In cases where it is impossible to do without built-in radiators, copper batteries should be installed that can withstand a working pressure of 10-15 atmospheres;
room height. The thermal power of radiators built into the floor, and accordingly the cost of heating equipment, directly depends on how high the ceilings are. The larger the cubic capacity of the room, the greater the volume of air that requires heating. Heat transfer efficiency is calculated in the ratio of 1 kW per 10 “squares” of area;
When installing underfloor water heating, it is necessary to ensure the supply of all power supply systems. These works should be included in the construction estimate at the design stage of the house or when planning repairs, otherwise it is impossible to ensure the normal functioning of the heating system. The only solution will be to install an electric convector;
selection of equipment. Currently, choosing heating equipment built into the floor depending on your wishes is not a problem. The assortment is large and the system is chosen based on the materials of the radiators, their shape and size. As a rule, water radiators have a standard design solution, and the instructions for their operation are not much different. Some models are equipped with powerful fans, thanks to which the heat transfer of heated air from the radiators into the room is significantly increased, since the circulation of air masses improves, which means the heating system works more efficiently;
when radiators are installed in the floor, the dimensions of the channels are determined depending on the parameters of the housing. Experts recommend making them 110 millimeters deep and 190 to 400 millimeters wide. Depending on which installation method is used, the distance from the floor to the radiator can be from 10 to 80 centimeters.

Primary requirements

The distance from the floor to the window sill may vary depending on the type of window. However, GOST provides for the permissible coefficient at which heat is best retained in the room, and the figure is 0.55 W/°C×m². This means that in order to achieve the desired effect, you need to use a plate that will have low thermal conductivity.

The distance of the radiator to the window sill plays an important role: in this case, there is SNiP, the main provisions of which require:

The window sill should have a slight slope into the room - at least 1˚. There must be thermal insulation between the wall and the structure. During installation, the height from the floor is taken into account. All window sills must be at the same level. The length of the window sill should not be more than 3 meters. The length is set relative to the window opening, with a difference of 4 mm. The distance required to retreat from the battery to the window sill should not be less than 8 cm. It is recommended to saw off the excess parts at room temperature.

Recommendations from experts

In order for air circulation near the radiator to be of high quality, it is necessary that the distance between the inner surface of the heat-insulating layer and the battery be at least 3 - 4 cm. If this gap decreases, then air circulation will be difficult, convective exchange will be disrupted, and as a result, the efficiency of the heating system will decrease.
If the placement of heating radiators does not allow the wall to be insulated with a special heat-insulating material, then foil is attached to the inner surface of the wall facing outside.
Since heating devices are most often located under window sills, a board that protrudes above the radiator prevents warm air from spreading upward. Therefore, the battery is mounted on an external wall, and the distance from the floor should be up to 10 cm, while the gap between the window sill and the battery should be at least 8 cm.
For purely aesthetic reasons, decorative screens are installed near the radiators, which block the heating radiator and prevent the flow of thermal energy from the heating device into the room. In this case, the room will be heated by convection, and this will significantly reduce the efficiency of the system.

If there are large windows in the room, then use batteries 30 cm high and in this case condensation will not appear on the glass.

The distance from the radiator to the floor should be 5 - 10 cm, to the window sill and to the wall 3 - 5 cm.

The radiator is installed at an angle of 90 degrees, since any deviation from the norm leads to corrosion of the heating device, as well as to the accumulation of air.

How to determine the required distance

Many construction works carried out inside residential premises are regulated by building codes and regulations (SNiPs). There is also a SNiP for the installation of heating batteries.

From it you can not only find out what distance between the wall and the radiator must be maintained, but also other parameters for its installation:

the device should be placed directly under the windows so that the centers of the opening and the battery coincide;
the width of the heating device should not exceed 70% of the width of the window sill niche, if any;
the distance to the floor should not exceed 12 cm, to the window sill - 5 cm;
the distance to the wall is within 2-5 cm.

There are several parameters that influence the selection of the optimal gap. Most often it is influenced by the material of the walls of the house and the size of the window sills. In some rooms you can observe an unsightly picture when the batteries protrude significantly beyond its limits.

Calculation of heating radiators

In conclusion, it is necessary to focus on the question of how to calculate the number of heating radiators per room or other premises. The required number of sections can be determined in several ways:

The required number of sections can be determined in several ways:

Based on the area of the room. This method is suitable for rooms with low ceilings (within 3 m). To do this, you need to multiply the number of square meters of room area by the required amount of heat per meter, according to SNiP this is 100 watts. For example, 20 sq.m will require 20x100=2000 W. Then the required amount of heat is divided by the heat transfer of one radiator section indicated in the technical data sheet. The resulting number of sections of the heating device is rounded up to a whole number.
Based on the volume of the room. This method is relevant when calculating radiators for rooms with high ceilings or staircases and, in addition, is more accurate than the above method. According to regulatory documents, for heating 1 cubic meter. m. of indoor air requires 41 W of thermal power. Accordingly, multiplying the volume of the room by 41, the required amount of heat is obtained, which is then also divided by the heat transfer power of one section and the resulting value is rounded to a whole number. Buildings equipped with modern double-glazed windows require less heating power - 34 W/cub.m. It should be borne in mind that manufacturers are often cunning and indicate heat transfer indicators at the maximum temperature of the coolant, so when making calculations it is necessary to start from the minimum parameters of the heating device.
A more accurate calculation can only be made by specialists, since this takes into account many parameters, coefficients and tabular values indicated in the regulatory documentation. These include: the amount of heat for a room depending on its location and value, room area, glazing and thermal insulation coefficients of enclosing structures, coefficients taking into account the number of external walls, ceiling heights, type of rooms above and below, outside air temperature in the coldest week and five days and much more. Therefore, to obtain such an accurate thermal calculation, it is necessary to contact an organization specializing in these services.

As can be seen from the materials in this article, choosing radiators of the required size and thermal power is an important step to ensure comfortable living in the house. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, then you can subsequently forget about the comfort of the room.

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Amendments to calculations and advice

The methods discussed above for calculating the number of radiator sections are perfect for rooms whose height reaches 3 meters. If this figure is greater, it is necessary to increase the thermal power in direct proportion to the increase in height.

If the entire house is equipped with modern plastic windows, in which the heat loss coefficient is as low as possible, it becomes possible to save money and reduce the result by up to 20%.

It is believed that the standard temperature of the coolant circulating through the heating system is 70 degrees. If it is below this value, it is necessary to increase the result by 15% for every 10 degrees. If it is higher, on the contrary, reduce it.

Premises with an area of more than 25 square meters. m. heating with one radiator, even consisting of two dozen sections, will be extremely problematic. To solve this problem, it is necessary to divide the calculated number of sections into two equal parts and install two batteries. In this case, the heat will spread throughout the room more evenly.

If there are two window openings in the room, heating radiators should be placed under each of them. They must be 1.7 times more powerful than the rated power determined in the calculations.

Having purchased stamped radiators where sections cannot be divided, it is necessary to take into account the total power of the product. If it is not enough, you should consider buying a second battery of the same type or one with a slightly lower heat capacity.

Many factors can influence the final result. Let's consider in what situations it is necessary to make correction factors:

Windows with regular glazing – magnifying factor 1.27
Insufficient thermal insulation of walls - increasing factor 1.27
More than two window openings per room – magnifying factor 1.75
Manifolds with bottom wiring – magnifying factor 1.2
Reserve in case of unforeseen situations – increasing factor 1.2
Use of improved thermal insulation materials – reduction factor 0.85
Installation of high-quality thermal insulating double-glazed windows – reduction factor 0.85

The number of amendments made to the calculation can be huge and depends on each specific situation. However, it should be remembered that it is much easier to reduce the heat output of a heating radiator than to increase it. Therefore, all roundings are made upward.

If you need to make the most accurate calculation of the number of radiator sections in a complex room, do not be afraid to turn to specialists. The most accurate methods, which are described in specialized literature, take into account not only the volume or area of the room, but also the temperature outside and inside, the thermal conductivity of the various materials from which the frame of the house is built, and many other factors.

Of course, you can not be afraid and add several edges to the result. But an excessive increase in all indicators can lead to unjustified expenses, which are not immediately, sometimes and not always, able to be recouped.

What sizes are there?

Radiators are available in the following sizes.

Cast iron

According to the specification, standard dimensions:

Width - 93 or 108 mm.
Depth from 85 to 140 in increments of 5.
Height - 588.

Sections made to order can have almost any size.

Knowing the length, the dimensions of the assembled device are determined, since a paronite gasket 1 cm thick is placed between the parts.

If installation is carried out at a point with insufficient space, add the size of the flushing tap.

Important! The distance between the axles is usually 500 mm. Small batteries with a value of 350 are rare

Each section is capable of delivering from 160 W if the average daily air and coolant temperatures differ by 70 degrees. Cast iron can withstand operating pressure up to 9 atm.

Aluminum

Different models have similar internal dimensions. The width is 80 or 88 mm. Depth varies in the range of 10-90 mm. The height is 50 or 35 cm. Models for the bathroom reach three meters in length.

Photo 1. Aluminum radiator model Indigo 500/100 with side connections, section power 196 W, , Russia.

The power of the sections depends not only on the dimensions, but also on the fins of the structure. Low ones develop 150-170 watts, and 500 mm - 185-220. Aluminum can withstand almost twice the pressure than cast iron.

Bimetallic

Standard values are in the ranges:

Width 80-82 mm.
Depth 75-100.
Height 400-420, 550-580.

Power depends on the size, but rarely exceeds 200 watts. This type of section is known for its ability to withstand high pressure, which is due to the steel core. The operating value reaches up to 30 atm, and the test value is 50.

conclusions

It is always necessary to maintain the correct distance from the wall to the heating radiator, regardless of the design of the product, its shape or other operational characteristics.

It does not matter what kind of heating system in a house or apartment: single-pipe or two-pipe, central or autonomous heating. In any case, space is needed for heat exchange between the air and the radiator.

If this rule is not followed, the energy efficiency of the heating system will be significantly reduced and the radiators will have a shorter service life. As a result, costs for energy resources, repairs or replacement of heating system components will increase.

Bimetallic heating radiators, which ones are better, selection instructions

The first heating radiators made from two metals (bimetallic) appeared in European countries more than sixty years ago. Such radiators coped well with the assigned function of maintaining a comfortable room temperature during the cold season. Currently, the production of bimetallic radiators has been resumed in Russia; the European market, in turn, is dominated by various radiators made of aluminum alloy.

Which bimetallic heating radiators are better?

Bimetallic radiators are a frame made of steel or copper hollow pipes (horizontal and vertical), inside which coolant circulates. Aluminum radiator fins are attached to the pipes outside. They are attached using spot welding or special injection molding. Each section of the radiator is connected to another by steel nipples with heat-resistant (up to two hundred degrees) rubber gaskets.

Bimetallic radiator design

In Russian city apartments with centralized heating, radiators of this type can withstand pressure up to 25 atmospheres (with pressure testing up to 37 atmospheres) and, thanks to their high heat transfer, perform their function much better than their cast-iron predecessors.

Radiator - photo

Externally, it is quite difficult to distinguish bimetallic and aluminum radiators. You can make sure that your choice is correct only by comparing the weight of the specified radiators. Due to the steel core, the bimetallic one will be approximately 60% heavier than its aluminum counterpart and you will make an unmistakable purchase.

The structure of a bimetallic radiator from the inside

Positive aspects of using bimetallic radiators

Bimetallic panel-type radiators fit perfectly into the design of any interior (residential buildings, offices, etc.) without taking up much space. The front side of the radiator can be one or both; the size and color scheme of the sections are varied (self-painting is allowed). The absence of sharp corners and overly hot panels makes aluminum and steel radiators suitable even for children's rooms. In addition, there are models on the market that are installed vertically without the use of brackets due to additionally present stiffening ribs.
The service life of radiators made from an alloy of two metals reaches 25 years.
Bimetal is suitable for all heating systems, including central heating. As is known, low-quality coolant in municipal heating systems negatively affects radiators, reducing their service life, but bimetal radiators are not afraid of increased acidity and low quality coolant due to the high corrosion resistance of steel.
Bimetallic radiators are the standard of strength and reliability. Even if the pressure in the system reaches 35-37 atmospheres, this will not damage the batteries.
High heat transfer is one of the main advantages of bimetal radiators.
Regulating the heating temperature using a thermostat occurs almost at lightning speed due to the small cross-section of the channels in the radiator. The same factor allows you to halve the volume of coolant used.
Even if there is a need to repair one of the radiator sections, thanks to the well-thought-out design of the nipples, the work will take a minimum of time and effort.
The number of radiator sections required to heat a room can be easily calculated mathematically. This eliminates unnecessary financial costs when purchasing, installing and operating radiators.

Negative aspects of using bimetallic radiators

As mentioned above, bimetallic radiators are suitable for use with low-quality coolant, however, the latter significantly reduces the service life of the radiator.
The main disadvantage of a bimetallic battery is the different expansion coefficient of aluminum alloy and steel. After prolonged use, creaking may occur and a decrease in the strength and durability of the radiator.
When operating radiators with low-quality coolant, steel tubes can quickly become clogged, corrosion can occur, and the level of heat transfer can decrease.
A contested disadvantage includes the cost of bimetal radiators. It is higher than that of radiators made of cast iron, steel and aluminum, but considering all the advantages, the price is completely justified.

End cap for window sill

In addition to the unconditional advantage in price, PVC window sills are not at all afraid of moisture, and the use of modern polymer films allows you to both give the surface of the window sill any texture or texture, and protect it from scratches or the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.

End cap for window sill

An important component of this interior element is the end cap for the window sill. The main purpose of such a plug is to hide the side cut of the window sill board and give the window sill a finished look.

There are also some minor features of using plugs - they protect the window sill coverings from delamination at the place where the blade is cut , and with high-quality installation, they seal the internal voids of the window sill board, preventing moisture from entering there and slightly improving its thermal insulation properties. Also, the color scheme of the end cap allows you to emphasize and highlight the texture of the window sill. Now there are different color options for plastic end caps for window sills: from white or gray to imitating light and dark wood.

Production Features

End caps for window sills are usually made from:

PVC,
polypropylene,
ABS plastic
polystyrene.

PVC plugs are usually stiffer and have slightly higher hardness - meaning they are more scratch resistant. In most cases, end caps used for window sills are made universal - such end caps have two caps, one on each side. In this way, a very high degree of unification is achieved: the same plug can be used on either side of the window sill, you just need to cut off the correct end.

This also eliminates the possibility of errors when purchasing products and simplifies the installation process. This means that you can install the plugs yourself without any problems; you just need to trim off the excess with ordinary scissors and mount the plugs with special glue. It should be added that to improve the fastening of the plugs and simplify the installation process, the lower part of the window sill board often has dovetail grooves.

Sizes of end caps for window sills

End caps for window sills are produced in several standard sizes ranging from 300 to 700 mm in length (specific values depend on the manufacturer), which is completely suitable for the vast majority of window sills. If the width of the window sill board is small (for example, on a balcony), you can even use one cap per window sill, cutting it in half.

In some cases, when making end caps, special chemical compositions are added to the material that affect the appearance (for example, enhance the glossy effect) or physical properties.

It is better to approach the selection and installation of end caps with full responsibility. The dimensions of the plug must strictly correspond to the parameters of the window sill board. You should also take the choice of color seriously. Despite the fact that plugs have a low cost, it is better to save your time and good mood.

How far should the window sill protrude from the wall?

The width of the model has a functional and aesthetic meaning, which participates in heat exchange, increases the usable area and is the finishing touch of the renovation.

In the kitchen, this element is used as an additional countertop. In other rooms this is a place for plants, so choosing the optimal width is very important.

When replacing window structures, owners want to make maximum use of the usable area and do not know how far the window sill should protrude from the wall.

A model that is too wide will interfere with normal air circulation, the room will not warm up properly, and the glass will fog up.

If non-radiator type heating is used, then you can install a model without a protrusion or a wide 0.5-0.7 m element.

The best arrangement for a PVC and wood slab is to extend it by 6 cm. For wider models, manufacturers provide technological holes for the circulation of warm air with a diameter of 1.0-1.5 cm.

Installation with a protrusion of more than 6 cm is possible by covering the radiator with special ventilation grilles or by choosing a battery with a horizontal flow of heat output. Installing a model made of stone, which does not transmit heat well, requires a protrusion of no more than 5 cm.

The importance of the gap between the wall and the battery

The minimum distance between the wall and the radiator is 25 mm; no thermal insulation layer is laid on the wall.
When installing radiators, it is important to create a distance between the heating device and the wall. The outer wall is constantly in contact with the surrounding air, causing significant cooling

When the battery is mounted on the inner surface without a gap, most of the heat will be spent on heating the wall material rather than the room. The low thermal insulation properties of concrete walls do not allow creating an optimal microclimate; about 70% of thermal energy will be wasted. By moving the heating system a short distance, air insulation will be created, increasing heating efficiency.

There are other reasons why it is necessary to create a gap according to the given standards:

Creating a sufficient level of air mass circulation. If this condition is violated, part of the energy will be lost.
When placed close to the wall, the device begins to heat up faster. As a result, the radiator may fail.
Dust and debris will accumulate between the wall and the battery, which also impede heat transfer.
In the absence of a heat-reflecting plate, the radiator will waste heat on the external walls.
If an electric battery is installed, there is a risk of short circuit. Hydronic heating systems can be susceptible to corrosion if there is no clearance.

When installing heating devices, you must adhere to the following recommendations - the greater the radiator power, the wider the gap should be. Its specific dimensions are made up of two important parameters:

Window sill width, niche dimensions. The possibility of creating distance depends on these individual characteristics.
The power of the battery itself.

Design, technical characteristics and features

Structurally, these heating devices are sectioned batteries consisting of two different metals: steel and aluminum.

The steel part of the radiator has direct contact with water or other coolant, and heat transfer is carried out by aluminum plates with excellent heat conductivity.

Due to the successful combination of the properties of these metals, bimetallic radiators have the following advantages:

High heat transfer coefficient;
Pressure up to 4 MPa;
Corrosion resistance;
Silence;
Can work in networks with any pipes;
Thanks to the sectional design, you can dial any estimated number of sections.

The height of radiators is usually 26, 42 or 58 cm. The standard center-to-center distance is 200-800 mm. The width of one section is usually 80 mm.

This choice of geometric dimensions allows you to install bimetallic radiators in any niches, under regular and panoramic windows.

Bimetallic radiators are coated with durable polymer paint, which reliably protects them from external influences and corrosion, in addition, they have a very attractive appearance.

In closed heating systems with a pH of 7 to 9, where the dissolved oxygen content is extremely low, the steel of the internal structures is almost not subject to corrosion, and rusting occurs only when the system is aired.

After some time, a dark, insoluble sediment forms on the inner surface of new radiators, preventing their destruction.

Thermal power (heat transfer) is the main technical characteristic of heating devices that determines their efficiency. For bimetallic radiators, this figure ranges from 100 to 200 W, depending on the height of the area of the aluminum plates.

This property is due to the excellent heat transfer of aluminum.

Aluminum radiators, which have similar heat transfer, but a lower price, resist corrosion much worse, and when the coolant reacts alkaline, they also emit hydrogen, as evidenced by noise and bubbling in the pipes.

They are distinguished from cast iron or steel sectional batteries by their compact size, light weight and attractive design, while the thermal power of bimetal radiators is higher. Their resistance to internal corrosion differs slightly.

In terms of resistance to increased pressure and water hammer, bimetallic radiators have no worthy rival: they can easily withstand pressure of 3-4 MPa. This indicator for cast iron and steel radiators does not exceed 2 MPa, for aluminum radiators – 1.6 MPa.

This feature is especially important for residents of high-rise buildings, where there is significant pressure in the heating system.

The only drawback is their price - it is higher than other heating devices. However, high reliability and efficiency completely compensate for this drawback.

What is needed for installation

To secure heating devices, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their set is almost identical, but for cast iron batteries, for example, larger diameter plugs will be required, and the installation of an air vent instead of a Mayevsky tap.

The installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is absolutely the same.

When choosing a radiator, you should take into account that many manufacturers provide a warranty on devices only when installed by organizations that have the appropriate license.

Required tools and materials

When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

if you plan to install the device in no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m in length, two points will be enough for reliable fastening - above and below;
Every subsequent 5-6 sections or 50 cm of battery length requires adding another pair of fasteners.

To install batteries you also need to purchase:

linen winding or fum tape;
drill with a set of drills;
level;
dowels;
elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

The Mayevsky tap is a device that is used at an unoccupied upper outlet. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on every heating device when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross-section of the Mayevsky tap is much smaller than the cross-section of the collector, therefore the connection is made using an adapter device supplied in the kit.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, you can also install automatic air vents on the battery, manufactured in nickel-plated or brass. For standard batteries, devices in white enamel housing are not available.

Stub

When connected to the side, the radiator has four outlets. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by the Mayevsky valve or air vent, and the fourth needs to be closed with a plug. They are made from a variety of materials to suit any type of battery.

Shut-off and control valves

To install and connect the battery correctly, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the network during dismantling. The system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the inability to regulate heat transfer.

Ball valves
The same functions, but with the ability to regulate the intensity of coolant flow, can be performed by regulating shut-off valves. Their cost differs greatly, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular or straight.

You can also place a thermostat on the supply pipe behind the ball valve - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already low flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division (mechanical devices) or by pre-programming the operating mode of the radiator (electronic thermostats).

Connection diagrams

Before installing a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

Lateral (one-sided) installation scheme for heating radiators, in which the pipe supplying hot coolant is connected to the upper pipe of the heating device. The outlet pipe is connected to the bottom one. This ensures high heat transfer. When connecting the other way around, when the supply pipe is connected from below and the outlet pipe from above, the heat transfer is significantly reduced. Such a connection in a one-pipe system requires the installation of a jumper to facilitate the operation of the system.
The second, diagonal connection of the heating radiator is as follows. The pipe supplying hot coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe of the battery, and the “return” is connected below, on the opposite side of the heating device. This connection is advisable if the battery is long and has a large number of sections. The diagonal design guarantees maximum heat transfer. But if the supply pipe is connected from below and the outlet pipe from above, the heat transfer will decrease by 6-10%.
The last method - connecting heating radiators from below - is used when the consumer wants to hide heating pipes in the wall, in the floor or near its surface. With it, the forward and return pipes are connected from the bottom of the radiator, but from different sides. This connection scheme (otherwise called “Leningradka”) is characterized by aesthetics, as well as low heat transfer. Heat loss is up to 15%.

You can ask the specialists how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and perhaps agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Recommendations for installation and operation of radiators

In order for the radiator to warm up well, air is removed from it through the Mayevsky tap.
The efficiency of heating and the service life of the heating system depend on the correct installation of the battery. There are a number of recommendations that you should use during installation:

It is recommended to lubricate the gaskets with silicone sealant before installation. This is an optional step, but it will help protect the joints.
Do not open the valves suddenly when filling the heating battery with liquid. Otherwise, water hammer may occur, which will damage the system.
If thermostatic valves are installed in a single-pipe system, a bypass must be installed. Without it, the entire riser will be regulated, for which the owner may be fined. Ball valves are placed in front of the valves, allowing the supply and return to be shut off.
If the radiator has more than 12 sections with a one-sided lateral connection, place the flow guide at a length equal to two-thirds of the battery (it is better to do it up to the last section). This will allow the radiator to fully warm up.
If the radiator fills with water, it is necessary to bleed air from it. If this is not done, the device will not warm up. The air is removed every year at the beginning of the heating season.

After installing the radiator, pipes are connected to it. They are selected in advance by material, cross-section and length.

Installation Features

The process of installing batteries in an apartment itself is quite simple, but since vertical heating radiators are tall and can be installed under the ceiling, installing them on the wall may take longer than you expect. All batteries are hung on a bracket and connected to a pipeline or power source . Perhaps this is the whole procedure for installing them.

Despite the simplicity of this process, when installing vertical radiators you need to pay attention to several features :

since vertical structures have more weight, it is advisable to place them on a main wall;
if you do not have the opportunity to hide the pipes, it is better to bring them to the bottom of the battery, otherwise such a design will not look aesthetically pleasing;
do not forget to install a jumper that allows you to regulate the heat and, if necessary, direct all the coolant through the radiator;
provide the ability to completely turn off the radiator using special valves;
if the suspension to the battery is located in the lower part, install the air vent in the upper radiator tube;
if a polypropylene tube is installed at the bottom of the battery, provide a compensator, create a coil or a U-shaped bend, ensuring smoothing of thermal expansion. This way the pipe will not bend during the heating process.

By following our rules and recommendations, you can choose a battery that will not only serve you for a long time, but also provide a comfortable environment and warmth without causing harm to the health of the whole family. And the correctly selected style of heating radiators guarantees the creation of a fashionable and modern interior.

We hope that the cold will not affect your health and mood, and vertical radiators will help you solve all the problems associated with low temperatures.