What to put under the pool to maintain its “health”?

Rules for installing the base and substrate under the pool

Your pool's underlayment and foundation will largely determine how long your pool will last. Our popular brands are Bestway and Intex. The slightest violation of the structure, deformation, or even a hole will ruin your summer vacation and make you scramble to find solutions. To prevent this from happening, pay attention to the advice of pool owners:

1. Take care of the strength of the pool base and decking - they take on the pressure of a huge amount of liquid. The mass of water is approximately equal to its volume. That is, the weight of 1 cubic meter of water is ≈ 1 ton. Calculate how much mass will be applied to your deck and you will be surprised.
2. If you will be placing the pool directly on the ground, compact it and clear it of debris and plants. Make sure that the selected area is free of roots and young woody growth.
3. Experts do not recommend using bulk substances for the base. So, sand is very popular, but it itself can quickly deform. After the first swim, the bottom will be covered with dents left by the feet of energetic swimmers. Soft, loose soil is no less uncomfortable for the well-being of a vinyl pool.

Advice from Chistyuli. The location for the pool is selected away from bushes and trees. Branches, leaves, and fallen fruits will constantly pollute the water. In addition, in an open sunny space, the water will warm up faster and better.

Technological features and advantages of sprayed polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is most effective for insulating a house or swimming pool. This is due to its cellular structure. In addition, the cells are filled with carbon dioxide. In addition, the heat transfer coefficient of this material is higher compared to other materials. In this regard, polyurethane foam is superior even to air.

Other advantages of the material:

• spraying does not leave seams through which cold could penetrate;
• spraying can be carried out on structures of various shapes, any configuration and complexity;
• simultaneous insulation and waterproofing is provided by spraying polyurethane foam;
• It is fireproof, as it goes out on its own when ignited.

What to lay under the pool

The substrate for a frame or inflatable pool must be durable. The problem is easy to solve when purchasing a pool: the accessory is included in the kit, or it can be selected separately. There are many options in stores, and in this case there is no need to maintain brand consistency. A ready-made substrate is convenient, but expensive.

If desired, you can use homemade underlayment. Important: it must be an artificial non-woven material - tarpaulin, thick film, and so on.

Special linings

They solve the problem once and twice. Meets all required quality parameters:

• ideally suited to the size of the pool;
• easy installation/disassembly, durable;
• made of durable material;
• reliably protect the bottom of the bowl;
• are not afraid of frost - can be stored in a utility room.

Ready-made pool mats plus a simple homemade podium are an excellent solution for small and medium-sized products.

If you plan to install a large all-season pool, build a concrete base. Or build a wooden deck.

Linoleum

The properties of linoleum are close to the original substrate. It is aesthetic, strong, durable. Of the minuses: usually this is a remnant from repairs, so it is difficult to select a piece that matches the diameter of the pool. In addition, when wet, linoleum becomes slippery, because it will often be flooded with water.

It is advisable to secure the edges of the linoleum with furniture nails. It is completely acceptable to use used linoleum.

Video. Frame pool: site preparation and installation

Polyethylene film

...When we purchased a pool this spring, we lost sight of the bedding - what came with it turned out to be an awning. I had to urgently come up with a way out, as the excited kids threatened to riot :). We have a small inflatable pool, so a piece of greenhouse film was an excellent backing option.

The film lasts for a season or even longer. This is a cheap and quite acceptable option. It is easy to select a piece to fit the size of the pool. Polyethylene film is a very budget material, its cost is one of the lowest in the family of unofficial substrates.

However, during operation, the film quickly deteriorates, losing properties under the influence of wind and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the material is quite thin, so you need to put a dense base under it - boards, plywood.

Pay attention to reinforced film - it is more resistant to damage, can be easily repaired with a patch, and can last for 2-3 years.

A polyethylene film is not suitable for an all-season outdoor pool, because to change it, you will have to at least pour out the water. Or even dismantle the entire structure. Every master will want to arrange the site correctly.

Geotextiles

This non-woven material is used in agriculture and construction. Its performance qualities allow us to confidently recommend non-woven fabric for installing a swimming pool. However, the softness of the material makes you think about the same deformation of the soil, the risk of rupture of the bowl by some stubborn sprout and other troubles.

The ideal combination: a platform made of wood, OSB + a bedding made of Flagpool geotextile or any other.

Tarpaulin

The first thing that comes to mind when you think about what to put under a frame or inflatable pool. There are two types of stores:

• brown-orange, treated with a protective fire-resistant compound;
• green shades, treated with a moisture-proof and antifungal substance.

Quite a good alternative to store-bought backing. The main thing is to choose the right color.

Rubber flooring

The cost of this rubber material is not inferior to the finished substrate. It makes sense to use it if you have a piece left after repair. The material retains heat well, does not slip, is resistant to damage, and is easy to care for.

Coverings with a thickness of 0.2 to 0.4 cm are on sale. For small children's pools, thinner rubber is suitable; for larger ones, take a thicker covering.

Video. Laying polystyrene under the bottom of a frame pool

Review of the simplest homemade substrates

What to put under a frame pool if resources are limited? The budget has sunk, there is no store nearby, etc.? Take advantage of the experience

Possible problems

If all work is done carefully and without errors, there will be no problems with laying penoplex.

However, if the work was done in a hurry, difficulties may arise:

• Base distortion . It usually results from poor compaction of the sand cushion. It will no longer be possible to correct this error, since it becomes noticeable already during the operation of the pool. In this case, you will have to urgently drain the water, remove the bowl and re-install the pillow.
• No underlying layers (geotextiles, sand). The first material is needed to cut off direct contact of groundwater with penoplex, and sand serves as a leveling component.
• Laying sheets without joining joints with tape. Because of this, the integrity of the base is compromised, and the sheets may begin to creep to the sides. This is especially pronounced after the winter period, when frost heaving of the soil changes the bottom topography.

Self-installation of the base

If you want a monumental product, make a platform out of wood or cement. Be careful when selecting some options. Do not forget that you need to put a backing under the frame pool on concrete.

The water in the pool acts as a counter-balancer, swinging the bowl from side to side. where the bottom meets, the pressure is very high. The vibrations of the pool can push the polystyrene lining sheets apart and the slightest pebble, shell, or sand can easily injure the bottom.

Moreover, they require a base made of concrete and tiles - the rough surface will sooner or later rub the bowl like sandpaper. That is why a platform made of any material requires a slippery bedding - as already mentioned, this is linoleum, film, etc.

Preparing to buy a pool

You may have already purchased the design. Or you decided which one to buy. However, check out the tips - here are recommendations from professional installers and advice from forums. They will also be useful when installing the entire structure. To avoid repeating the mistakes of others, read...

How to choose a pool

To prevent the design of your home pool from “breaking” your summer mood, think about your choice before purchasing the product by studying:

• design features of the model;
• instructions for installation, operation and storage of the pool;
• how to choose the right place (this is in the article);
• costs associated with the purchase of a pool and components;
• a budget that will cover site preparation;
• costs for delivery of the pool, materials and assistance in arrangement;
• do not forget to calculate how much it will cost to fully maintain the structure;
• what will be needed when servicing the pool (connecting electricity, filling and draining water, dismantling for the winter, etc.).

Everyone knows the deceptive marketing ploy: show the buyer the minimum cost, and then systematically trick him into purchasing additional necessary accessories. Think about this in advance and you will not go beyond the planned amounts.

Video. How to prepare a site for a frame pool?

Selecting bowl volume

Although we are talking about bedding, I cannot help but talk about how to choose the volume of the bowl. There are too many sad stories associated with thoughtless purchases. For example:

• there is no centralized water supply on the land plot;
• the well is too small and cannot fill the pool;
• the pool has to be filled within a week;
• the pool is forced to be filled with purchased water (wow!).

And so on.

Long BEFORE purchasing, consider all the details of maintaining the structure. So, at our dacha there is a small well, in which the water level drops significantly by the July heat. After much deliberation, we purchased a round inflatable pool with a diameter of 183 cm and a height of 60 cm.

It’s not enough for a ten-year-old child, but there is no other choice. By the way, this container is quite enough for my daughter to splash around with pleasure (she even “swims” and “dives like a shark” there).

Selecting a location

Place the pool so that it fits into the infrastructure of the dacha and occupies a place that is comfortable for use.

1. Initially, the site or lawn intended for the pool should be as level as possible in relation to the direction of the horizon. Of course, hills and valleys can be leveled. But why make your job more difficult?
2. If possible, move away from walls (up to 5 m), trees, bushes (up to 3 m). Otherwise, in the first case, part of the building will become damp. In the second, garbage will fall into the water.
3. In relation to the pool, the house and other buildings should not be in a recess, but at a height. Otherwise, when draining or in an accident, water will flow under them. If there is a shortage of space, it is permissible to install a pool near the fence.
4. A small but important detail: it is advisable that the bowl be accessible from all sides.
5. Make sure you have access to water, electricity and sewerage. Of course, this does not mean a local pond, but your own drainage pit.
6. Do not place the structure in the shade, otherwise the pool will be cold.

A pool filled with water is a very heavy structure. Therefore, it should be located away from loose slopes, loose soils, cavities in the ground (drain holes, cellars), etc. And also away from railway tracks and highways along which heavy trucks pass.

When the pit is ready, it's time to lay the bedding.

Weak soils

A popular question is: can a frame pool be placed on grass? Experts recommend installing pools with a volume of no more than 2 tons on grass.

If we are talking about a larger bowl, the answer is clear: no, it’s impossible. Quite reliable - at first glance - perennial turf will begin to sag unevenly under the influence of dampness and the heavy weight of water. Moles, mice, and the remains of other construction activities make the soil uneven. After sifting, the pool will soon become deformed and lose its working properties.

In addition, without a liner there will be constant dirt around the pool. And one more thing - as soon as you leave, the ubiquitous grasses will immediately begin to actively grow. It is likely that when you arrive in two to three weeks, your pool will be hidden from view by rampant weeds.

The natural density of the soil is of great importance. Under the influence of the multi-ton "puck" of the pool, dampness, and precipitation, peat, sandy or clayey soil will quickly "float". Expert advice: on such soils, place a concrete platform with good drainage or a platform of paving slabs laid on a sand and gravel bed.

Video. Pool deck made of used tiles

Site marking

When applying markings, add 0.5 meters around the entire perimeter/circumference. This reserve is enough to correct errors during installation of the platform, and there will still be room for a playing area.

Types of insulation

The choice of materials and methods for insulating a pool is very large - from economical to highly costly. The most popular are:

1. expanded clay concrete,
2. foam plastic or penoplex,
3. foam concrete,
4. expanded clay,
5. foamed polyethylene.

These materials have been tested by time and have confirmed their qualities:

1. reliability,
2. strength,
3. high thermal insulation,
4. non-susceptibility to outside influence,
5. water resistance,
6. environmental friendliness,
7. a light weight,
8. ease of installation.

Table of thermal insulation properties of materials:

Designations:

A - Very high

B. - High

V. - Average

G. - Low

D. - Very low

So…

When constructing a base for a pool, you can use household supplies of linoleum, geotextiles, and reinforced film. Linoleum is an ideal option. Moreover, you can use a used one.

For the durability of the structure and better preservation of the pool bowl, it’s worth putting in a little effort and building a podium. The least expensive is built from pallets, OSB. Good boards are somewhat more expensive.

For large pools, lay a concrete base. However, the disadvantage of the design is that it is not so easy to dismantle it. Unlike concrete, although wooden platforms require minor repairs, they can be dismantled without a trace in a couple of hours. The grass is growing again and the street is empty!

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How to choose material?

When choosing a material, you need to take into account that it must meet certain requirements:

• Perform not only heat-insulating, but also waterproof function.
• Withstand high loads (including being resistant to mechanical damage and withstanding low temperatures in winter).
• A good effect will be achieved by using a material that leaves a minimum number of seams and places for cold penetration.

The best options for insulation would be the following materials:

• Styrofoam;
• thermal insulation membranes;
• sprayed polyurethane foam.

It is not recommended to use materials as insulation that can damage the structure or those where there are many joints left after installation.

Comparative characteristics of the use of various types of insulation for frame houses

The walls of frame houses with cotton wool have a thermal resistance 1/3 times worse than that of houses with walls made of PENOPLEX® insulation, because The cotton wool is located between the pillars, which are “cold bridges”. If you fix PENOPLEX® with a thickness of 30 mm outside the studs, then the reduced heat transfer resistance will increase by 30%, and if instead of cotton insulation you choose insulation for a frame house from PENOPLEX outside the studs, then we will get an improvement in the thermal protection of the building by 50%.

Option No. 1 (cotton wool only):

• Imitation of timber;
• Vapor barrier;
• LVL stand 150 x 50 mm;
• Inter-column space wadding parquet extra 150 mm;
• OSB 9 mm;
• Moisture and wind protection;
• Imitation of timber.

Thermal heterogeneity coefficient 0.663

Reduced heat transfer resistance = 2.7 m2hdeg/W

The reduced heat transfer resistance of the structure is R=2.674 m2 oC/W (corresponds to approximately 80 mm PENOPLEX®).

Additionally, you will need at least 20 mm of mineral wool (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.042 W/mK).

Option No. 2 (mineral wool + PENOPLEX®):

• Imitation of timber;
• Vapor barrier;
• LVL stand 150 x 50 mm;
• Inter-column space mineral wool 100 mm;
• On the top of the racks there is Penoplex Comfort 30 mm with the seams taped with construction tape;
• Imitation of timber;

Thermal heterogeneity coefficient 0.857

Reduced heat transfer resistance = 3.43 m2xdeg/W

Option No. 3 (PENOPLEX® 100 mm):

• Imitation of timber;
• Vapor barrier;
• LVL stand 150 x 50 mm;
• Inter-column space without insulation with electrical wiring + ventilation;
• On top of the racks, Penoplex Comfort® 100 mm with seams sealed with construction tape + plastic mushrooms with a metal core, 4 pieces per 1 m2;
• Imitation of timber;

Thermal heterogeneity coefficient 0.977

Reduced heat transfer resistance = 4.0 m2hdeg/W – the best option for thermal resistance

The walls of a frame house with wool and PENOPLEX® are 42% cheaper than with just wool with the same thermal resistance.

Estimated cost of 1 m2 for structures: Option 1. Approximately 936 rub/m2 for materials (including additional insulation with 20mm wool: +33 rub/sq.m., i.e. total: 903.5+33=936.5 rub/m2. ) Option 2. Approximately 658 rub/m2 is the best insulation option for frame houses at a price Option 3. Approximately 808 rub/m2

Step-by-step instruction

Insulation of the bottom of a concrete pool with penoplex should be included in the design documentation and carried out in stages during construction work. After digging a pit:

1. We pour 3 layers onto the bottom: sand, crushed stone, gravel (15-20 cm each).
2. We produce cement screed.
3. We make reinforcement (periodic profile reinforcement with anti-corrosion properties).
4. We install embedded elements on the bottom: skimmers, water level regulator, flow pipe, outlets from the overflow tray, bottom drain, nozzles, etc.
5. We fasten them with anti-corrosion wire. We fence with formwork.
6. We cast a concrete slab - the base for the pool.
7. Let it dry.
8. We lay penoplex.
9. We seal and connect with mastic.
10. We concrete the base.
11. We install the frame bowl or start finishing the concrete bowl.

Why is thermal insulation necessary?

Thermal insulation of a frame pool in a country house or country house is especially important if the structure is buried in the ground.
Typically, the depth is up to 2 m. It must be taken into account that even in the hottest period, the soil temperature at such a depth is not higher than +11° C.

The temperature difference between the surface of the frame at night and during the day can reach 10°C . This affects both heating and heat retention in the lower part of the structure. First of all, the wear-resistant qualities of the frame deteriorate.

Even if on a hot day the top layer quickly heats up under the sun's rays, the water will also cool down quickly due to the cooled lower part of the pool.